Sugarloaf (tel. 800/THE-LOAF or 207/237-2000; www.sugarloaf.com) is a formidable freestanding mountain and, at 4,327 feet, Maine's second highest. Its lofty summit is high enough for the east coast's only lift-served, above-treeline terrain, and makes skiing these steeps mirror the feeling of skiing in the high Rockies. Located in a remote corner of west central Maine, it nevertheless has magnetic appeal for skiers and riders from Boston and Portland who want challenge and are willing to travel to find it. Its high elevation and northerly location extend the season into April, sometimes May.
The mountain was developed as a rugged, experts' ski area with New England's longest continuous vertical, a whopping 2,802 summit-to-base feet. Ample easier terrain has naturally been added since 1952, when the original trails were cut. A powerful snowmaking installation and steadily improved grooming operations now can tame even tough runs, yet regulars also treasure its remaining wildness and natural state. Because snowmaking and grooming exists, Sugarloaf works hard to leave some things alone in order to maintain its rep as a challenging monster of a mountain
There are old experts on the slopes of Sugarloaf who have been skiing there for decades and young experts, ready to make their mark on the snow-sliding world. The Carrabassett Valley Academy, one of the country's pioneering secondary schools for top ski and snowboard competitors, calls Sugarloaf home. Regular skiers might see the next Bode Miller, Kristen Clark or Seth Wescott training; this Olympian trio is all CVA alumni.
Sugarloaf has a lot to offer new skiers and families, both in terms of terrain and motivation to improve. Brand new skiers start out on tabletop gentle Birches, Landing and Double Runner. Learners and little ones gain confidence on the West Mountain and Whiffletree, with their range of novice slopes to legitimate intermediate trails. Served by the zippy Whiffletree SuperQuad with its speedy 6-minute ascent, the terrain enables skiers and snowboarders to get better quickly to prepare for the steeper stuff.
Intermediates treasure Tote Road, Timberline, Kings Landing and Hayburner -- different in width and pitch but great mid-level runs. The Central Mountain (yes, this sector officially bears that name) holds much of the Loaf's abundant terrain for advanced and expert skiers. A selection of steep chutes, glades and classic trails are found here. Ripsaw, a classic trail in King Pine Bowl, is generally split-groomed -- half groomed, half left natural.
Narrow Gauge is more than a classic: It is legendary. Sugarloafers are proud that it is the only trail in the east approved for top-level ski races in all four disciplines. A lot of the hot on-slope action these days is not on the race course, but in the superpipe off the Double Runner Chair. That's where Olympic gold medalist Seth Wescott earned his snowboarding stripes.
In addition to summit snowfields, Nitro and Gondi Line (site of a long-dismantled gondola) are high-mountain runs of consistent pitch and daunting steepness. Mogul hounds gravitate to Skidder, Bubble Cutter and Winter's Way (the last named after Sugarloaf founder Amos Winter).
A small village development at the base of the ski mountain has more than adequate facilities and services without being overwhelming. With the exception of the full-service Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel and the more casual Sugarloaf Inn, the slope-side accommodations are condominiums. The inn also houses the resort's new brewpub, a sorely needed addition to the après-ski and night scene.
No one just casually drops in at Sugarloaf. From anyplace except nearby Kingfield. It takes considerable effort to reach it. The fact that New Englanders have been doing so season after season for more the half a century testifies to the quality of the mountain.
Sugarloaf Stats
Lifts: 2 high-speed quads, 2 fixed-grip quads, 1 triple chairlift, 8 doubles, 2 surface lifts
Trails: 133 trails and named glades (26% easiest, 31% more difficult, 27% most difficult. 16% extremely difficult/expert)
Terrain Parks: 2 parks, 1 halfpipe, 1 superpipe
Vertical: 2,820 feet
Skiable Acres: 651 (snowmaking on about 240 acres)
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