Marrakech is steadily moving up the list of the world's hippest cities, both a blessing and a curse -- for every luxury riad or world-class restaurant, there's a scamming tour guide or overpriced taxi ride. But learn to embrace the city's madness, and you'll be duly rewarded.
Click to launch full slideshow
Romancing the Riad
The idea of Marrakech can be romantic, and those seeking that ideal should stay at New York designer Thomas Hays' Riad Meriem (97 Derb el Cadi, Azbezt, Medina; tel. 024/387731; www.riadmeriem.com). Hays' eye for aesthetics is clearly evident in the riad's decor, but rather than an overpowering mélange, it's subtle sophistication that shines here. Moroccan lanterns cast patterned shadows on the walls at night, creating art pieces of their own, which work well with Hays' own photography that graces the walls of common spaces and rooms. Rooms are fantasies of various hues and themes, whether it's the lavender Star or the green Matisse, and feature plenty of storage space in Indian-inspired, open-fronted closets; big bathrooms with rainshowers heads (Matisse and Red rooms also have large soaking tubs); and ambient lighting (great for a late-night rendezvous but perhaps not when searching for your missing earring). The vibe here, as at many other riads, is casual and comfortable, largely due to the friendly and helpful staff. Manager Cyrus, a British expat, is full of (helpful) opinions about what's worth your time and what's not, and host Hassan is always smiling and willing to arrange anything, whether it's breakfast or finding a local cobbler. Common spaces are just as atmospheric as the rooms, with a large majlis facing the pool in the open-air courtyard; an indoor dining room with fireplace (perfect on a winter night); and a rooftop with sun chairs, a shower, lounge and dining area, tent, and a view of the Koutoubia Mosque's minaret.
French Morocco
Food can be hit or miss in Marrakech, and often the best meals you'll have are at your riad, where local chefs create dishes based on family recipes. But if you're looking for something other than the traditional Moroccan fare, a meal at Le Bis (6-7 Rue Sakia el Hamra; Semlalia, Gueliz; tel. 024/446-634; www.lebis-jardindesarts.com) is a nice break. The French restaurant is located in Gueliz, away from the hustle of the Medina and, seemingly, in another world. Behind enclosed walls is a spacious garden with spherical lighting hanging from trees, while white, black, and gray dominate the indoor dining room's palette. The space is stark and stylish, accented by an entire wall of ornamental plaster, seating comfortable enough to sink into, and a notably pretty toilet, covered in mosaic mirror tile. The French menu is surprisingly affordable and focuses on fresh ingredients and light fare, including crisp salads with apples, tomatoes, asparagus, or eggplant; a variety of fish and preparations, with creative accompaniments (risotto made from pumpkin rather than rice); and a selection of beef, duck, and lamb. Owner Laurent Bocca is happy to work with vegetarians, and the dishes are no less tasty sans meat.
After-Dark Dining
If you think Marrakech is alive during the day, you should see it at night. The food stalls at Jemaa el Fna roll out their goods, the lights of the city bounce off the architecture, and belly dancers take to the floor at restaurants around Marrakech. Those looking for dinner and a show will have plenty of options, including Comptoir Darna (Ave. Echouhada Hivernage; tel. 024/437702/10; www.comptoirdarna.com), a mysterious-feeling spot with dark lighting, red accents, live musicians, an elegant belly dancing show, and an outdoor patio. The menu, which includes both European and Moroccan fare, doesn't do justice to the attentive and friendly service or the space, so after you've had your fill of everything from chicken pastille to goat cheese ravioli, head upstairs to the bar/lounge, where you can mix with Moroccan elite and European expats, listen to fantastic live music, and dance to whatever the DJ's spinning that evening.
Exclusivity and luxury meet at Lotus Privilege (9 Derb Sidi Ali ben Hamdouch, Bab Doukkala, Medina; tel. 024/3814/18; www.riadslotus.com), part of the high-end Riads Lotus group. Swaths of rich colors and fabrics set the stage for Murano glass, berber carpets, and Asian artwork in the Imperial-style space that feels somewhere between a museum and a pasha's palace. The six-course set menu changes every 3 months and features "inventive Moroccan" cuisine such as quail tagine, salmon briouattes, and burbot pastilla.
Rose With No Thorns
Robert Mars and his partner, Stephen Vincent Scarman, opened Riad el Mansour (227 Derb Jdid, Bab Doukkala, Medina; tel. 024/381577; www.riadelmansour.com) in November 2006, and have since found themselves rated among the best on Trip Advisor. The riad is an elegant collection of Moroccan and European pieces; haunting reproduction paintings of British photographer Alan Keohane's work; a large thuya wood sculpture, and a multicolored tile Jacuzzi/plunge pool. And while Robert and Stephen aren't designers, it's clear the two have good taste (the table in the dining room is exquisite). The six rooms vary in size and configuration, all with extras overlooked by many local hotels, such as an mp3 docking station, an alarm clock, Wi-Fi, extra pillows and blankets, fresh and dried fruit, and water. The suite features a large carved bed; dripping chandeliers; two closets; a seating area both inside and outside; and a large bathroom with enough counter space to spread out all your wares -- and the right light to apply them. Both the suite and room no. 3 also have working fireplaces and flatscreen TVs with DVD players (movies can be checked out at reception).
Service is unimposing and attentive, and it's what makes this riad stand out, Robert says. It's quite easy to be taken care of wonderfully and, if you so choose, rarely see another human being (unless you venture out of the riad's door, of course). Welcome additions include an in-house hammam, spa, and gym.
Sites to See
Europe's influence is seen throughout Morocco, whether it's the French-speaking citizens or their stylish, slim-fitting jeans, but much of the country's African and Arab origins can still be found, largely in its sites. The Marrakech Museum, housed in the former Dar Menebhi Palace, has a variety of exhibits showcasing local artists, textiles, weaponry, and other artifacts. The central courtyard is topped by a large brass chandelier, and while its cover is a nice escape from the sun, it makes it hard to appreciate the tiled fountain and the zellij-covered majlis. On the same ticket you can visit the 14th-century Ben Youssef Medersa (about 30m to the right as you depart the Marrakech Museum). While this is no longer a religious school, it was once the country's largest, housing almost 1,000 students. The central courtyard, anchored by a large pool, is surrounded by beautiful zellij, carved marble and stucco walls and columns, and numerous arches. Be sure to walk upstairs to get a look at the students' small quarters. While the Bahia Palace is empty now, the 19th-century palace once housed the grand vizier's harem, and a walk through the numerous rooms reveal carved wood ceilings and zellij. The minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque (Av. Mohammed V, opposite place de Foucauld and Jemaa el Fna) can be seen from various vantage points around Marrakech, and is the city's largest mosque (not open to non-Muslims). Locals can be seen escaping the midafternoon heat in the minaret's shadow. A bit farther out, in the Ville Nouvelle, the Majorelle Garden (Av. Yacoub el Mansour), designed by Jacques Majorelle and owned by French designer Yves Saint Laurent (he died in 2008; his ashes scattered here), is a nice break. The namesake Majorelle blue is a striking background for cacti, bamboo, and other flora and fauna.
Boutique Bunking
The white-washed walls at Dar Charkia (49-50 Derb Halfaoui, Bab Doukkala, Medina; tel. 024/376477; www.darcharkia.com) give the impression of a beach house in Santorini, and pops of purple, pink, and silver lend an ethnic yet modern twist. There are plenty of common areas to lounge, eat dinner, have tea, or unwind after a day in the souks (Dar el Bacha is literally up the street, and Jemaa el Fna is just a short walk). The rooftop, like the dar, is large enough to give all guests their own space, and has a view of the Atlas Mountains (snow-capped in the winter) in the distance. Decor includes pieces from the owners' (husband-wife team Michael and Lisa May) travels, as well as original artwork from their daughter.
While the riad is a team effort (the staff are charming and friendly), Lisa is certainly at the helm, and her taste and touches can be found in the rooms (six in total), which anticipate guests' needs, including a full-length mirror; a large bathroom with double sinks (with the exception of one room), bright lights, and rainshower heads; and plenty of outlets to plug in phones, iPods, flatirons, and more. Rooms are decorated with everything from handmade textiles to colorful baskets, and chances are that if you like it, Lisa can tell you where to get it; she offers shopping tours for guests (£50) and non guests (£55), which includes a detailed and plotted map and a walkthrough of the souks with stops at her favorites shops. Dinner at the dar is not to be missed, a mixture of European and Moroccan dishes, cooked by Lisa and Samira. The meal was one of the best, and most filling, during my stay.
1,001 Shops
A visit to Marrakech is not complete without at least a few days spent getting lost among the winding paths in the souks. You'll travel through lands of metal, leather, olives, and spices, picking up everything from handwoven baskets, colorful candles, sets of tea glasses, and perhaps a carpet or giant metal lamp along the way. You can find similar items at many of the stalls, but there are some that are worth seeking out, not only for their wares but for the people who create and sell them. You'll likely see brothers Mustapha and Omar behind the counter at Tafilalet Creation (5 Souk Essammarine; tel. 024/441-057), their opposite personalities reflecting the spectrum of pieces you'll find here, ranging from modern necklaces of semi-precious stones to chunky ethnic pieces from Morocco and India. Multi-strand necklaces of jade, garnet, freshwater pearls, rubies, citrine, and more fill the cases here, and can be modified to fit your tastes and budget. Prices are affordable and based on weight.
At Youssef and Elsa Maanaoui's L'Art du Bain (13 Souk el Lbadine; tel. 067/491-610), the couple use their soap-making skills (which they picked up in France) to create handmade soaps ranging from jasmine and sandalwood to rose and argan. The space is small but warm, calming, pretty, and changes regularly, depending on what strikes the couple's fancy. If you're lucky enough to come on a day when they have donkey milk soap, grab it while you can; it's used to fight aging and treat dry and sensitive skin, Youssef says, and flies off the shelves within a week. Soaps are fixed-price and start at 15dh. In the New Town you can find modern shops such as Zara and a variety of high-end home stores selling fancier versions of what you see in the souks, such as Scenes de lin (70 Rue de la Libert é, Gueliz; tel. 024/436108) and Ô Gai-Liz (68 Rue de la Liberte, Gueliz; tel. 024/458433). The latter, run by Fabienne Lakhdari, is a feminine collection of home furnishings (including some unusually shaped dressers), local artwork (check out pieces by young female artist Milouda), and smaller home decor items.
