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Is a Trip to Orlando Worth it Without the Mouse?

I've been to Orlando more times than Winnie the Pooh's swiped honey from a jar, but had never been to the Land the Mouse Built without paying my respects to either Disney or Universal until a recent trip.

I've been to Orlando more times than Winnie the Pooh's swiped honey from a jar, but had never been to the Land the Mouse Built (well...built up) without paying my respects to either Disney or Universal until a recent trip. After all, why would you want to head down to Orlando without visiting Mickey and/or Shrek?

Well, as it turns out there are a couple of very good reasons, beyond the obvious fact that Orlando does have world-class attractions beyond the two titans of theme parks. What are they?

1) Summer high season equals lots of crowds, which means you'll be spending a lot of time standing in line in the city's summer heat and humidity in the theme parks. That's not everyone's definition of fun.

2) Nearly 52% of the visitors to the city arrive without children (no, I'm not kidding). Some of them like the opportunity to indulge in some grown-up fun while not surrounded by other people's offspring, the majority of whom will be trolling the major theme parks.

3) For those who do arrive with kids in tow, here's some food for thought, a day at Disney for a family of four will cost you $262. And that's just for the tickets. If your kids are young enough (or short enough) that they won't be able to enjoy some of the rides or remember all that much of the experience (except, perhaps, for that traumatic meeting with the giant character you just knew junior would love, but he found scary), well, that's not $262 well spent.

4) As you can see, spending time with Mickey can be an expensive proposition. Disney rewards long-term visitors (at least 4 days) with ticket discounts, but those travelers end up shelling out large wads of cash in food and hotel costs. The rest of us spend immense sums on tickets. Universal Orlando is better on the ticket front for anyone willing to commit to at least 2 days to its parks, but you'll still end up paying lots of money for parking and food. And Universal (in a frankly money-gouging policy) charges extra for an express pass access to its rides, so if you don't spend even more money, you will waste way more time standing in lines. You could choose to stay at a Universal resort and get automatic front-of-the-line access, but you'll pay big bucks and won't even get the free parking that Disney throws in for its resort guests.

5) Orlando has, of late, made in-roads in becoming a major resort destination in its own right. You won't get an ocean view, but if you want world-class recreational facilities and relaxation opportunities, you won't lack for opportunities. The city also has smaller attractions that are entertaining and enlightening in their own right. Got to the theme parks and the odds are you'll skip these and miss out.

So can you have a great time in Orlando without hitting the two biggest players in town? Absolutely. And I'll even cheat a bit and let you visit a theme park that gets third-billing in this town, but shouldn't; and a world-class option that's only an hour's drive from the city.

Getting Discounts

Before you do anything else, head straight for the Orlando & Orange County Convention & Visitors Bureau website (www.orlandoinfo.com) and get yourself their free Orlando Magicard. You can download the card and print it, or request one from the OCCVB, along with a vacation-planning packet. The card offers discounts on everything from accommodations and attractions to golf and nightlife, though the available options might be somewhat limited. In addition to the card, you'll also usually find special discount offers on the website for various activities and hotels, so don't book anything until you've reviewed their discount possibilities.

Where to Stay

No Disney or Universal hotels for you. Which doesn't mean that you have to give up a themed atmosphere if you want it -- or first-rate facilities. If you don't plan on spending all of your time in the theme parks, then picking the right place to stay in Orlando becomes that much more important. I'd definitely opt for something that is more than just a place to lay your head for the evening. It may mean spending more money on a room, but will give you a wider range of ways to spend your day. Note that rates listed below are rack rates, but you can almost always score deals on the various travel websites that will bring down the cost.

For those with kids of Nickelodeon age, you won't do much better than the Day Glo-colored Nickelodeon Family Suites by Holiday Inn (tel. 866/462-6425; www.nickhotel.com). This just might be the most family-friendly resort in Orlando. Offerings include 2-bedroom Nickelodeon-themed suites with a living room, separate rooms for kids (with bunk beds if you so desire) and parents, and mini-kitchens (the three-bedroom version has a full kitchen). Amenities include a very friendly staff, stringent security (guests have to wear a bracelet that resembles a more colorful version of those you get in hospitals -- and is just as hard to remove), a spa just for kids, a fabulous kids program (including a nighttime version that allows mom and dad some alone time), a veritable water park that was hopping from dawn to dusk, and a popular character breakfast with Nick characters. The beds and storage capacity could be better, but everything is clean -- and, heck, this is a place where kids can get slimed! The property offers a host of discount and specialty packages, and regular rates start at $169.

Those looking for an upscale hotel option with a wide range of amenities should check into the relatively new Rosen Shingle Creek Resort (tel. 866/996-6338; www.shinglecreekresort.com). The immense 1,500-room convention resort (I got lost on the way to the parking lot one evening) has a lovely Mediterranean design; great staff; an attractive pool area; a David Harman golf course that Golfweek named one of the top 40 new courses in the U.S.; and luxurious rooms with flat-panel TVs, robes, and all the other little niceties you expect in a hotel of this caliber. And the resort's restaurants, while on the pricey side, are uniformly good. For value for money, the buffet meals at Café Osceola are your best bet (be sure to sample the key lime pie for dessert if its there); they run from $15.50 to $24.50 for adults, half that for kids 4 to 12 (really little ones eat free). The price tag for the resort? Rack rates run $350 to $475.

Another possibility is the Gaylord Palms Resort (tel. 877/677-9352; www.gaylordpalms.com), which also appeals to the vacation and convention market (and is also of whopping size). The big draws here are a giant flora-filled atrium (with real gators), a branch of the Canyon Ranch spa (pricey, but I had the best massage of my life here), an unbelievably nice staff, a very cool pool area for kids (adults get their own pool), and comfy if not spectacular rooms themed to various areas of Florida. The cost runs $239 to $450 for a double. If I have a problem with both properties it's the nickel-and-diming that goes on with the addition of extra charges and fees for stuff that should be in the room rate (an unfortunate trend that is spreading to many hotels).

Saving the best for last, my absolute favorite accommodation tactic in Orlando is to avoid hotels completely. Orlando has a burgeoning vacation home market and it's a fabulous option for families, groups of friends traveling together, or couples who don't mind spending extra to get more privacy and space. And if you're traveling with enough people, the price per person for a truly luxurious home can drop to a mere $20 a day. That's peanuts when you compare it to the price of a hotel room (or rooms, if you have to get more than one). No, you won't get the round-the-clock service that you might get at a luxury hotel, but you will get lots of room, privacy, a full kitchen with pretty much every utensil you'd need, possibly your own private pool (or use of a resort one), and lots more amenities. And some home-rental packages may even throw in a rental car, making them an even better value.

There are a lot of home-rental agencies out there and many are iffy, so do your homework; the best outfit in Orlando is All-Star Vacation Homes (tel. 800/592-5568; www.allstarvacationhomes.com), which lets renters see photos of its beautifully furnished homes online (I can confirm that what you see on the web is what you get in person). Note that each place is uniquely decorated, room configurations vary, and some have special theme rooms (your kids can get their Disney fix with their room decor if you absolutely must have some Mickey in your vacation). So shop around on the website or give them a call; the staff is both gracious and knowledgeable. Prices in summer start at $139 a night for a 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom condo with use of a resort pool and on-site fitness center; and run as much as $489 a night for a palatial 7-bedroom estate home (sleeps 14) with 5 bathrooms, a private pool, washer and dryer, Jacuzzi, gas grill, and game room. A friend and I spent a very satisfactory day at our home lounging in the pool and Jacuzzi, and watching movies in our own private home theater. There is a 4-night minimum, an $85 Property Protection fee (against damage), and you'll have to pay a cleaning fee on rentals of less than 6 nights.

Cultural Orlando

Yes, Orlando is home to some great cultural institutions that go way beyond the Disneyfied global mock-ups you'll find at Epcot. And many of them are patronized mostly by adults, making them a rare piece of Orlando real estate where grown-ups can get some child-free time.

My favorite is the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art (tel. 407/645-5311; www.morsemuseum.org), which in addition to a collection of American decorative arts and paintings from the Arts & Crafts era, is home to the most comprehensive collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany works in the world. Not only will you find Tiffany's renowned stained glass windows and lamps, but samples of his pottery, ceramics, and jewelry (don't miss the Peacock Necklace if it's on display...the collection constantly rotates) as well. The museum's highlight is the breathtaking Byzantine-Romanesque Chapel that Tiffany designed for the 1893 World's Columbian Exhibition in Chicago (you can sit inside to soak up the atmosphere). Be sure to check out the museum's special exhibitions when you're there as well; when I was in town there was a wonderful display of rare books, many of them with beautiful illustration work of the sort you almost never see today. And don't skip the gift shop. Best of all is the price, a mere $3 for adults; kids under 12 enter free, but strollers are restricted and this isn't really the place to take young children.

Note that the museum is actually located in Winter Park, just north of Orlando. This charming town used to be the favored spot for moneyed snowbirds to roost during the winter and is now best known as the home of picturesque Rollins College (where social climbers still send their kids). Take a stroll down the lovely shop-lined Park Avenue while you're there.

Next up is the Harry P. Leu Gardens (tel. 407/246-2620; www.leugardens.org), which is home to a number of botanical gardens, including the state's largest formal rose garden and a first-rate collection of camellias. Don't skip the interesting tour of the Harry P. Leu House, a well-preserved turn-of-the-20th-century home that's on the National Register of Historic Places. Kids especially love the Butterfly Garden, which is home to a huge number of species. If you have any interest in gardening or historical homes, this place is a must, but even if you're not, it makes for a very restful oasis in the midst of the Orlando chaos. I only suggest that you hit these gardens in the morning before the afternoon heat and humidity start to take their toll (the gardens close for July). Admission is $5 for adults, $1 for kids, but it's free for all from 9am to noon on Mondays.

Other good cultural possibilities in town include the Orange County Regional History Center (tel. 800/965-2030; www.thehistorycenter.org), which traces the city and region's history in excellent detail; the Orlando Museum of Art (tel. 407/896-4231; www.omart.org), which houses a collection of mostly American art, but does bring in special exhibitions related to other cultures (a new exhibit on African textiles is set to open at the end of July); and the Wells' Built Museum (tel. 407/245-7535; www.pastinc.org), which highlight's the city's rich African-American heritage.

Stepping into SeaWorld

Yes, it's a theme park. But because it's so different than the other heavyweights in town -- and even I can't go for a while in Orlando without some sort of theme experience -- a day here won't leave you as frazzled as the other parks. Lines are not as long and you can do the entire park comfortably in a single day. And, perhaps most important, SeaWorld is currently running some very good online specials. Adults can choose to pay a child's price ($53.95, plus tax) or they can pay full price ($64.95, plus tax) and get a second day in the park for free. Note that both options must be purchased online at least seven days in advance of your arrival in the park. And remember to budget $10 for parking.

Though it actually arrived in town before Universal Orlando, SeaWorld often gets treated as the ignored kid sister to Universal and Disney. The lack of distinction will likely fade somewhat when it opens another all-out water park, Aquatica, in spring 2008. SeaWorld is unique among its theme park brethren in that many of its offerings are show-based. The advantage in this is that the theaters in which said shows take place are huge, so lines are far less of a problem (though you should still arrive at least 15 minutes early for the major productions ... like anything starring a whale named Shamu).

If I have one caveat it is this: If the day calls for sustained bad weather (not the usual quick afternoon thunderstorm that's typical in Orlando), then save this park for another day. Lightning and water don't mix, and may of the shows and water rides are usually shut down during bad weather.

Blue Horizons, is a show whose suspect storyline (something about a girl and a dream) won't matter much as you watch a host of birds, dolphins, and acrobats put through impressive paces. I recommend trying to sit in the middle of the stadium for this one; sit low down and you will get wet ... but in the summer that may not be such a bad thing. Odyssea is a wonderful Cirque du Soleil-style show featuring impressive acrobatics, slapstick humor, and some dance. Best of all, it's indoors, so if you need an air-conditioned break, or need to get out of Central Florida's usual afternoon summer shower, it's a real winner.

The big cheese at SeaWorld is Shamu. Believe, set in a stadium dominated by a 2.5 million-gallon tank, is a new and entertaining showcase for the park's famous killer whales. It's a must unless you like your music with a little more beat and plan on staying in the park until after dark. If that's the case, then opt for Shamu Rocks instead. You get the same impressive tricks set to a rock-'n'-roll soundtrack. Either way, arrive at least 20 minutes early. The waiting time can be entertaining in and of itself. When I was at Shamu Rocks, SeaWorld warmed up the audience -- many of the adults already in a good mood thanks to free samples from SeaWorld-owner Anheuser-Busch -- by blasting classic rock songs on the primo sound system. There are few things more surreal than waiting for a killer whale to arrive while a packed-to-the-rafters amphitheater belts out Joan Jett's "I Love Rock and Roll."

SeaWorld is more than just shows, however. Animal encounters and exhibits are another major part of the fun. My favorite of the available encounter options (from stingrays to sea lions to Clydesdale horses) is the opportunity to feed the park's dolphins at Dolphin Cove (at $5 for just a couple of fish). As if proving how cool it is to feed one of these mammals, the longest lines in the park weren't to get on the park's few thrill rides, they were here. Though the experience is undeniably gratifying, it's actually not the best way to see the mammals because they tend to mob the small area where fish are dispensed, making viewing hard. To actually see the dolphins, or if you don't want to shell out extra for the feeding, head here in late afternoon when you can watch them play with each other.

In the look-but-don't-touch department, SeaWorld's best exhibit is Shark Encounter, where you're transported via moving walkways through a 300,000-gallon acrylic aquarium loaded with marine predators. So close do you get, you can see every pointed tooth as the sharks swim over and around you. Don't, however, skip the smaller species before you head into the main display (my favorites are the sea dragons). The exhibit is adjacent to the park's best dining option, too. Eating at Sharks Underwater Grill isn't cheap, but the up-close views of the shark tank combined with Floribbean cuisine that's a step above the usual theme park blah -- especially its desserts -- makes it a winner. If you want to eat with the fishes and live to tell about it, head here to make a reservation as soon as you get inside the park.

In the thrill department, you'll find three appropriately heart-rate-elevating options. The tamest but most interesting is Wild Arctic, which lets you experience a simulated but wild flight in the arctic region before emptying you into an animal exhibit featuring beluga whales and walruses. Next up is Journey to Atlantis, a "water coaster" whose detailing is not as good what you'll find in Disney or Universal, but you won't really care thanks to the 60-foot drop and subsequent drenching -- a blessing on a summer day. Last up is Kraken, a monster coaster that some adrenaline junkies argue is the best in the city. I won't dispute them. The floorless coaster hits 65mph at its fastest, goes upside down 7 times, and is one smooth ride.

If you have little kids with you, be sure to stop in at the excellent Shamu's Happy Harbor, an immense play area for little ones with carnival-style rides, a kiddie coaster, a four-story playground, and other water-related fun. Parents may have trouble getting their kids out of here in less than 2 hours. Just be sure to slather your kids in sunscreen before they're let loose because the shade in this area isn't all that great.

Finally, you can cap off a summer day in the park with Mistify, the park's day-ending capper (staged only during high season). It melds water projections, fountains, fireworks, and music into a multimedia extravaganza, and though it is enjoyable, it's production values definitely fall short of the stuff put out by Disney. If you plan on staying the whole day, by all means see it, but it's not a must-do.

Blasting off at the Kennedy Space Center

In the 1960s, before there was the Mouse, the big names associated with Central Florida were Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo. People regularly flocked to Cape Canaveral to watch astronauts blast off into space and were every bit as elated as they are today by a roller-coaster. Tourists may visit Mickey more often now, but a trip to the Kennedy Space Center (tel. 321/449-4444; www.kennedyspacecenter.com) is still an exceptional and inspiring experience that shouldn't be missed. Standing beside actual spacecraft and rockets produces a thrill like no other: I saw many a child staring up at them in complete wonder, and their parents weren't to different. Plus, it's way cheaper than the theme parks even though you'll also get a full day's worth of fun.

Located about an hour's drive east of Orlando, the Kennedy Space Center actually consists of several attractions. Admission to all of them costs $38 for adults, $28 for kids ages 3 to 11; at press time, the center was running a special where you get two days for the price of one if you order your tickets in advance online. You can also take a number of specialized tours, but unless you're a space nut, they aren't worth the extra cash. One special experience that is worth the extra dough is the unique Lunch with an Astronaut program at 12:15pm daily, which costs an extra $23 per adult, $16 per child. Because the eating options at the center in general aren't that great (and are expensive), the program is not a bad deal. You get an all-you-can-eat buffet lunch without about 50 other people, a very entertaining video presentation about life in space, and a chance to hear from an actual astronaut (in my case, a former pilot of the Challenger). There's a general Q&A after the presentations, so the experience is not precisely personal, but the astronaut at my session was both personable and eager to share, and nobody walked away unhappy.

It's best to get to the center as close to opening as you can, so make it an early morning. Though you'll see the U.S. Astronaut's Hall of Fame on your drive to the main Visitor Complex, don't stop here first; save it for the end of the day. Instead, head for the main parking lot (it's free), pay your admission, grab a guide map, and then you're off and running.

An absolute must is the bus tour that departs every 15 minutes and shuttles you to three stops inside the NASA complex. The first stop is at the LC-39 Observation Gantry, where, if you're lucky you'll be able to see a Space Shuttle sitting in preparation for a launch. You'll also learn a great deal about the launch process. As you proceed on the bus to your next stop, check out the Vehicle Assembly Building on your left, which, as your guide will tell you, could comfortably fit both the Pentagon and the Chicago Merchandise Mart by volume inside. Needless to say, it's huge. The second stop on the tour is the Apollo/Saturn V Center, where you experience a "launch" from Mission Control's perspective (in the actual Mercury control room) before heading into a museum where you'll encounter a massive Saturn rocket, an actual moon rock, and an excellent presentation on the first lunar landing. The final stop, the International Space Station Center gives you a view of the preparation area where actual parts for the International Space Station are made. The bus tour can take anywhere from 2.5 to 4 hours, depending on your level of interest (and waiting times for the next shuttle), so keep that in mind when scheduling your day.

Back at the Visitor Complex, there's plenty to see and do. Best of all is the brand new Shuttle Launch Experience, which opened in May. The attraction simulates a shuttle launch experience, but it's not as hard on the senses or body as some of the other simulators in Orlando (such as Mission: Space at Epcot). It also has better detailing. Next door is Space Shuttle Plaza, where you can get a glimpse of the interior of these famous ships. Also cool are the IMAX films presented in the complex's theater; if you have time for just one, I recommend the new Magnificent Desolation: Walking on the Moon 3D. At the Rocket Garden you'll feel pretty dwarfed by the rockets that lifted spacecraft into the sky, and pretty immense as you climb into the tiny Mercury and Apollo capsules that fell back down to earth after the missions were over. And, finally, don't miss the especially stirring Astronaut Memorial, an immense granite monument that honors the 24 astronauts who've died in the name of space exploration; depending on the era in which you were born, several of the names inscribed on the wall might be very familiar to you.

If there's still time at the end of your day, head a few miles back to the U.S. Astronaut's Hall of Fame (your KSC admission ticket will get you inside), where you'll find more astronaut artifacts, including a Mercury craft and an Apollo command module, lots of hands-on interactive stations (great for kids), and more simulators if, say, you want to feel the effect of 4Gs on your body.

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