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The Baltic States Are Hot Off-Season, We're Tallinn Ya

Although the Lithuanian independence effort hastened the collapse of the U.S.S.R., the Baltic states are the former-Soviet-republics-less-traveled, since eastern Europe opened to the West in the early 1990s. And it's certainly not for want of compelling reasons to visit. The region's capital cities -- Vilnius in Lithuania, Riga in Latvia, and Tallinn in Estonia -- all have medeival cores protected by UNESCO's World Heritage program, and a lively blend of Russian, German, Scandinavian, and other influences. While the Baltics are no longer the rock-bottom bargain destinations they were before they joined the European Union earlier this year, intrepid travelers who can take the cold (between 19 and 28 degrees in January) can also take advantage of off-season savings and see the region while it's still relatively untrammeled.

The best air/hotel package comes from California-based Continental Journeys (tel. 800/601-4343; www.continentaljourneys.com). Their "Baltic Capitals" tour (under "Specials" on the home page) affords you nine nights and eleven days in Vilnius, Riga, and Tallinn for $1,289, through March 31, from New York JFK or Newark. This price includes round-trip fare on Finnair or SAS, centrally located, tourist-class accommodations, public bus transfers between cities, daily breakfast, and a private tour of each city and its wealth of beautifully preserved historic architecture.

The hotel in Vilnius, Lithuania's quirky, inland capital, is the Europa City, a brand-new, three-star establishment near the Old City. The guided tour of Vilnius includes the largest Old Town in Europe; St. Ann's and Bernardine's Church, which is such an exquisite example of Gothic architecture Napoleon wanted to transport it to Paris; the 16-century Gates of Dawn, the only remaining tower of the nine that helped buttress the city's original fortress walls; the Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, with its preserved bodies of three 14-century martyrs; Town Hall Square; Vilnius University, founded in 1579, home of the Centre for Stateless Cultures, such as the Roma and the Yiddish;and the 17-century St. Peter and Paul's Church. Also not to be missed: the Jewish museum, Museum of Genocide Victims in the former KGB headquarters, and the unlikely public statue of Frank Zappa, built after his death by his Lithuanian fan club.

A drive through the low-lying Baltic countryside brings passengers to Latvia and its capital -- the industrial port of Riga, known as the big city of the Baltics. Guests stay in the Bruninieks Hotel, a three-star, newly restored establishment built in 1905. The organized tour includes the medieval Hanseatic town and the 14-century Riga Castle; St. Peters's Church, the Gothic landmark in Old Riga; the Dome Cathedral, founded in 1211; and the reconstructed House of Blackheads, originally built to shelter unmarried guild members in the mid 1300s. Don't miss Riga's chief attraction -- its Jugendstil district, considered to be Europe's finest collection of Art Nouveau architecture.

The final trip, to Tallinn, Estonia -- the Baltic's most Scandinavian capital, on the Gulf of Finland -- takes you along the coast to the Metropol, a new, 3-star hotel with views of the Old Town or the sea. The organized tour includes Tallinn's old town, considered the best example of Gothic architecture in the Baltic and Nordic countries, with parts of its original rampart walls still intact; Town Hall Square, the only original Gothic town hall in northern Europe; the Toompea (Upper Town) Castle fortifications; the 13th-century Dome Church; the 18th century Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Alexander Nevskij; the medeival Guild houses; and the 13th-century Oleviste Church, built in honor of Norway's King Olaf II.

The Baltic Capitals package doesn't include air taxes. First-class accommodations are only $200 extra a person for the entire trip. Alternate departure cities are available as well, for an additional $75 a person from Chicago or Washington, D.C., or $175 a person from Seattle.

While the three-city tour is the best deal for the money, Continental Journeys also offers three-night air/hotel packages to each capital, with a choice of three- or five-star accommodations: Three nights in Riga are $729 to $999, Tallinn is $749 to $999, and Vilnius is $779 to $1,099.


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