366km (227 miles) S of Mexico City; 272km (169 miles) SW of Taxco; 979km (607 miles) SE of Guadalajara; 253km (157 miles) SE of Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo; 752km (466 miles) NW of Huatulco

In its glitzy heyday in the 1950s, Acapulco was best known as a getaway for Hollywood stars like John Wayne and Frank Sinatra. The glitz and glamour of those days may be long gone, but Acapulco never really lost its sizzle. This Mexican port city's flashy discos are packed nightly, and hotels rise up along miles of sandy beaches that trace beautiful Acapulco Bay for more than 6km (3 3/4 miles). Mountains ring the city, providing a spectacular backdrop for candlelight dining and the famously fearless La Quebrada Cliff Divers.

No first-time visit is complete without seeing La Quebrada Cliff Divers plunge from high cliffs into a narrow gorge, much as they have since 1934. You can see the show from public viewing areas or the terrace at El Mirador Hotel. The Fuerte de San Diego, built in 1616 to protect Acapulco from pirate attacks, has a museum tracing the port's history. Nearby, the city's zócalo (main square) is lined with cafes and shops.

Acapulco's renowned nightlife kicks off around midnight and stays in high gear until the wee hours. Younger crowds flock to the Hotel Zone where rowdy beachside Paradise/Paraíso and the cavelike Baby-O are favorites. Big, upscale clubs catering to the chic are on hilltops in Acapulco Diamante, including Palladium, with breathtaking bay views, and the multi-leveled Mandara, with a mammoth dance floor.

For romance and panoramic views, head for the hills. Overlooking Puerto Marqués, Zibu mixes Mexican and Thai influences; try the shrimp in ginger and mango sauce. Set in a hot-pink hillside home, Su Casa offers big margaritas and shrimp with garlic and spices. More casual eateries, many specializing in fresh-caught snapper and bass, are packed into the Hotel Zone. Among them, El Zorrito serves local fare such as pozole, a white hominy stew that's a Thursday lunch tradition in Acapulco.

You can play any number of ways on Acapulco's 19km (12 miles) of beaches, from the south end at oceanfront Punta Diamante to the north at low-key Pie de la Cuesta. Go scuba diving, set out for some deep-sea fishing for marlin and sailfish, or float above the bay by parasail. Glass-bottom boats depart from Caletilla for Roqueta Island, where you can snorkel, sun, and hike to an old lighthouse. All kinds of sailing vessels run sunset cruises on the bay and into the open ocean.

Safety

Acapulco has been getting a lot of attention lately, much of it negative. Because it's the most familiar destination in the area, it's often cited as the location of crimes that take place throughout the state of Guerrero. The dreadful stories you hear about gruesome crimes have nothing to do with international tourists and involve disputes between rival drug cartels. We're perfectly comfortable in Acapulco, but we still take precautions. Most important, stick to the known tourist areas around the coastline and don't venture into city neighborhoods, especially not alone. Hotel taxis, though expensive, can be more secure than those on the street. Don't wander around alone at night on the beaches or the streets. Keep your wits about you -- it's never wise to wander around inebriated in any city. For up-to-date info on safety issues and complaint forms if you sense something's wrong, check out www.seguridadgro.gob.mx.

Visitor Information

The State of Guerrero Tourism Office operates the Procuraduría del Turista (tel./fax 744/484-4416; www.guerrero.gob.mx), on the street level of the Convention Center, set back from the main Costera Alemán, down a lengthy walkway with fountains. The office offers maps and information about the area, as well as police assistance for tourists; it's open daily from 8am to 11pm. The state also has a public safety website with live chat, Twitter, and informative articles at www.seguridadgro.gob.mx.

Getting There

By Plane 

Phone numbers for major airlines with nonstop or direct service to Acapulco are Aeroméxico (tel. 800/237-6639 in the U.S. and Canada, 01-800/021-4000 in Mexico, or 744/485-1600), American (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada, 01-800/904-6000 in Mexico, or 744/466-9232), Continental (tel. 800/523-3273 in the U.S. and Canada, 01-800/900-5000 in Mexico, or 744/466-9063), and Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S. and Canada, or 01-800/123-4710 in Mexico).

Aeroméxico flies from Guadalajara, Mexico City, Tijuana, and Monterrey; InterJet (tel. 01-800/011-2345) is a low-cost carrier that flies from Toluca, about an hour from Mexico City; Volaris (tel. 01-800/786-5274) flies from Toluca and Tijuana. Check with a travel agent about charter flights.

The airport (airport code: ACA) is 22km (14 miles) southeast of town, over the hills east of the bay. Private taxis are the fastest way to get downtown; they cost 300 to 550 pesos. The major car-rental agencies all have booths at the airport. Milenio and Movilaca have desks at the airport where you can buy tickets for minivan colectivo transportation into town (about 100 pesos). You can reserve return service to the airport through your hotel.

By Car

From Mexico City, take either the curvy toll-free Hwy. 95D south (6 hr.) or the scenic Hwy. 95, the four- to six-lane toll highway (3 1/2 hr.), which costs around 550 pesos one-way. The free (libre) road from Taxco is in good condition; you'll save around 400 pesos in tolls from there through Chilpancingo to Acapulco. From points north or south along the coast, the only choice is Hwy. 200, where you should always try (as on all Mexican highways) to travel by day.

By Bus

Estrella de Oro has two terminals, one in downtown at Av. Cuauhtémoc 14920, and one near the airport in Acapulco Diamante at Blvd. de las Naciones 34. The Estrella Blanca terminal (also called Central de Autobuses) is at Av. Cuauhtémoc 1604. Turistar, Estrella de Oro, and Estrella Blanca have almost hourly service for the 5- to 7-hour trip to Mexico City (380-600 pesos), and daily service to Zihuatanejo (220 pesos). Buses also serve other points in Mexico, including Chilpancingo, Cuernavaca, Iguala, Manzanillo, Puerto Vallarta, and Taxco.

Car & Bus Travel Warning Eases -- Car robberies and bus hijackings on Hwy. 200, south of Acapulco on the way to Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, used to be common, and you may have heard warnings about the road. The trouble has all but disappeared, thanks to military patrols and greater police protection. However, as in most of Mexico, it's advisable to travel the highways during daylight only. In addition to the still-present risk of unsavory activities, the roads are unlit and animals can wander onto them. Before heading that way, ask locals and the tourism office about the status of the route.

Parking

Acapulco stretches more than 6km (3 3/4 miles) around the huge bay, so trying to take it all in by foot is impractical. The tourist areas are roughly divided into three sections. On the western end of the bay is Acapulco Viejo (Old Acapulco), the original town that attracted the jet-setters of the 1950s and 1960s -- and today looks as if it's still locked in that era, though a renaissance is projected.

The second section, in the center of the bay, is the Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone) or La Costera; it follows the main boulevard, Costera Miguel Alemán (or just "the Costera"), as it runs east along the bay from downtown. Towering hotels, restaurants, shopping centers, and strips of open-air beach bars line the street. At the far eastern end of the Costera lie the golf course and the International Center (a convention center). Avenida Cuauhtémoc is the major artery inland, running parallel to the Costera.

The third major area begins just beyond the Gran Hotel Acapulco, where the name of the Costera changes to Carretera Escénica (Scenic Hwy.), which continues all the way to the airport. The hotels here are lavish, and extravagant private villas, gourmet restaurants, and flashy nightclubs built into the hillside offer dazzling views. The area fronting the beach here is Acapulco Diamante, Acapulco's most desirable address.

Street names and numbers in Acapulco can be confusing and hard to find. Many streets are not well marked or change names unexpectedly. Street numbers on the Costera are illogical, so don't assume that similar numbers will be close together.

Getting Around

By Taxi

Taxis are more plentiful than tacos in Acapulco -- and practically as inexpensive, if you're traveling in the downtown area. Just remember that you should always establish the price with the driver before starting out. Hotel taxis may charge three times the rate of a taxi hailed on the street, and nighttime taxi rides cost extra, too. Taxis are also more expensive if you're staying in the Diamante section or south. The minimum fare is 25 pesos per ride for a roving taxi in town; the fare from Puerto Marqués to the Hotel Zone is 100 pesos, or 150 pesos into downtown. Sitio taxis are nicer cars, but more expensive, with a minimum fare of 450 pesos. Acapulco taxis are easily recognizable by their flashy, blue neon lights.

By Bus

Even though the city has a confusing street layout, using city buses is amazingly easy and inexpensive. Two kinds of buses run along the Costera: pastel color-coded buses and regular "school buses." The difference is the price: New air-conditioned tourist buses (Aca Tur Bus) are 10 pesos; old buses are 5 pesos. Covered bus stops line the Costera, with handy maps on the walls showing routes to major sights and hotels.

The best place near the zócalo to catch a bus is next to Sanborn's, 2 blocks east. Buses marked CALETA DIRECTO or BASE-CALETA will take you to the Hornos, Caleta, and Caletilla beaches along the Costera. Some buses return along the same route; others go around the peninsula and return to the Costera. Go for the Directo buses for the fastest service; the others roam through back streets.

For expeditions to more distant destinations, there are buses to Puerto Marqués to the east (marked PUERTO MARQUES-BASE) and Pie de la Cuesta to the west (marked ZOCALO-PIE DE LA CUESTA). Be sure to verify the time and place of the last bus back if you hop on one of these.

By Car

Rental cars are available at the airport and at hotel desks along the Costera. Unless you plan on exploring outlying areas, trust us, you're better off taking taxis or using the easy and inexpensive public buses.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The telephone area code is 744.

Climate -- Acapulco boasts sunshine 360 days a year, with average daytime temperatures of 27°C (80°F). Humidity varies, with approximately 1.5m (59 in.) of rain per year. June through October is the rainy season, though July and August can be relatively dry. Tropical showers are brief, but rainstorms can last for days, flooding downtown streets.

Consular Agents -- The United States has an agent at the Hotel Continental Emporio, Costera Alemán 121, Loc. 14 (tel. 744/481-0100); it's open Monday through Friday from 10am to 2pm. The Canadian office is at the Centro Comercial Marbella, Loc. 23 (tel. 744/484-1305) and is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

Currency Exchange -- Numerous banks along the Costera are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm. Banks and their ATMs generally have the best rates. Casas de cambio (currency-exchange booths) along the street may have better rates than hotels.

Drugstores -- One of the largest drugstores in town is Farmacía Daisy, Francia 49, across the traffic circle from the convention center (tel. 744/481-2635). It's open daily from 9am to 11pm. Sam's Club and Walmart, both on the Costera, have pharmacy services and lower prices on medicine.

Hospital -- Hospital Magallanes, Av. Wilfrido Massieu 2, Fracc. Magallanes (tel. 744/469-0270), has an English-speaking staff and doctors. For local emergencies, call the Cruz Roja (Red Cross), Av. Ruiz Cortines s/n (tel. 065).

Internet Access -- Acapulco's hotels have been slow to offer Internet access. Some have Wi-Fi in the lobby only; others have in-room cable service for a fee. If it's important, ask before booking. Acanet, Costera Alemán 1632 Int., La Gran Plaza, Loc. D-1 (tel./fax 744/486-8182, -8182), is open weekdays from 10am to 9pm and weekends from 11:30am to 9pm. Internet access costs about 30 pesos per hour.

Parking -- It is illegal to park on the Costera at any time. Try parking on side streets or in one of the few covered parking lots, such as in Plaza Bahía or Plaza Mirabella.

Post Office -- The correo is next door to Sears, close to the Fideicomiso office. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday from 9am to 2pm. Other branches are in the Estrella de Oro bus station on Cuauhtémoc, inland from the Acapulco Qualton Hotel, and on the Costera near Caleta Beach.

Safety -- Riptides claim a few lives every year, so pay close attention to warning flags posted on Acapulco beaches. Red or black flags warn swimmers to stay out of the water, yellow flags signify caution, and white or green flags mean it's safe to swim.

As is the case anywhere, tourists are vulnerable to thieves. This is especially true when shopping in a market, lying on the beach, wearing jewelry, or visibly carrying a camera, purse, or bulging wallet. Don't walk on Acapulco's beaches at night. Stick to the tourist areas when exploring.

Telephone -- Acapulco phone numbers seem to change frequently. The most reliable source for telephone numbers is the Procuraduría del Turista, on the Costera in front of the convention center (tel. 744/484-4416), which has an exceptionally friendly staff. It's open daily from 8am to 11pm.

Tourist Police -- Policemen in white and light-blue uniforms belong to the Tourist Police (tel. 066 for emergencies, or 744/485-0490), a special corps of English-speaking police established to assist tourists.

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