Tables here spill onto one of Agrigento's most beautiful squares, high in the medieval center's upper zones. It's a short walk downhill from the cathedral, where there aren't a lot of other restaurants. I usually prefer the terrace, but if it's cold, rainy, or unbearably hot, descend into one of the nearby cellars, built in the 1400s as a stable, where other tables await. The chef shops at the nearby fish market, later concocting such delights as a savory fish couscous or else linguine with a shrimp sauce. Regularly featured is the filleted fish of the day served with fresh vegetables. The meat dishes are less inspired.