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All the dishes that you would hope to find in a restaurant where modern touches have revitalized traditional French cooking are found here. Try the likes of a soup of Jerusalem artichokes and nuts with poached egg and peppered olive oil, then fish cooked in Parmesan pastry with leeks, followed by a chestnut-flavored crème brûlée. But an equally compelling reason to cross the river is the spectacular view you get of the cathedral complex from the summer terrace. It’s far enough off the main tourist track that you feel you have really made a discovery.