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Visitor Information -- The best place to get information about the Golden Temple and the Sikh faith is at the temple's own Information Office (tel. 0183/255-3954; Apr-June daily 7:30am-7:30pm, July-Mar daily 8am-7pm). The Punjab government's tourist office (tel. 0183/240-2452; http://punjabgovt.nic.in; Mon-Sat 9am-5pm) is at the Palace Hotel, opposite the railway station, but you'll get a better introduction to the city from someone at your hotel or guesthouse.

Getting There & Away -- You can fly from Delhi with Kingfisher (tel. 1800-233-3131), Jet Airways (Main Market, Ranjit's Ave. Shopping Complex; tel. 0183/250-8003) or Indian Airlines (39A Court Rd.; tel. 0183/221-3392, -3393, or -3141; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm), but the best way to get here is on the Shatabdi Express or the overnight Golden Temple Mail from Delhi -- it is far more economical and quite a comfortable option. Taxis, auto-rickshaws, and bicycle-rickshaws are always available at the station to take you to your hotel, whereas if you fly, you'll be at the mercy of the overpriced prepaid taxi counter, with charges into the city starting at around Rs 700. You'll want to avoid spending time tracking down tickets, so either book your return or onward journey in advance, or have your hotel handle your reservation. If you're stuck, there is a computerized train reservation facility located at the Golden Temple complex.

Getting Around -- Note that any of the accommodation options reviewed below will make all your transport and sightseeing arrangements for you. A half-day sightseeing trip (4 hr.) costs Rs 800 to Rs 1,200, and a full 8 hours will be Rs 1,100 to Rs 2,000, depending on the quality of the vehicle. Should you want a guide, you'll need to add another Rs 750 to Rs 1,200. Auto-rickshaws are useful within Amritsar itself, especially since the roads are so terribly congested, but they're too slow for trips to Wagah border, for which you should arrange a car, and perhaps share it with fellow guests. If you're looking for a friendly, reliable auto-rickshaw wallah, try giving Bunty a ring on tel. 94-6352-2971. Cycle-rickshaws are popular, but if you're in a hurry, don't want to deal with the glaring sun, or need to cover more than a few miles, opt for a car or auto-rickshaw instead.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.