Direct from the Monty Python Ministry of Silly Walks, this early evening border closing ceremony has grown into one of the most spectacularly bizarre attractions in all of India. A thrillingly pompous display of military bravado, it attracts countless Indian tourists every day, and is some of the most delightfully fun modern-day events you'll ever get around to witnessing in India. It's an intricately choreographed high-kicking, toe-stepping, quick-marching ceremony wherein the Indian and Pakistani flags are lowered on either side of the only border that remains open between the two more-often-than-not hostile countries. As the event has grown into a full-blown spectator sport, organizers have added an emcee and laid on many more grandstands (and security measures) to ensure that each show is a mighty success, not to mention ego-stoking celebration of all things "Indian" -- when we last visited, part of the warm-up included children dancing passionately to Jai Ho, the hit tune from Slumdog Millionaire, while whistle-blowing soldiers try their darndest to keep the crowd seated. A number of officers from each team put on a raised-eyebrow performance to the satisfaction of the cheering, chanting crowds, and the atmosphere is nothing short of electric. The pointless exercise ends with the furious slamming of the border gates, at which time each side's flag is urgently carried to a room for overnight safekeeping. For anyone interested in unbridled nationalist pride, the Flag Ceremony is an unforgettable outing (only half an hour from Amritsar). Arrive well ahead of the crowds in order to get a close-up seat -- the grimaces of the mighty military men in their rooster caps add to the fun, and you'll get a better look at the Pakistani delegation. Foreigners are entitled to occupy one of the better-situated grandstands (bring your passport, just in case someone wants to check), but there are even better "VIP" seats for which you can arrange access through political connections (or, if you're a guest there, from the manager of the Ista hotel).