Dinner rushes at Club Paris come like the 6-foot bore tide that rushes up Turnagain Arm, only less predictably. The ebb and flow of meat eaters at this dark, narrow arm of a steakhouse is dictated by variables like bachelor parties, retirement send-offs, and the schedule of the nearby Alaska Center for the Performing Arts. One thing doesn’t change: Club Paris is the place to go in Anchorage when the occasion, whatever it is, calls for red meat. Never mind the casual service or the slightly disreputable façade, with its smoked black windows, vintage ‘50s neon, and a faded cut-out of the Eiffel tower leaning cockily toward the street. The charbroiled steaks here are as good as steaks can be (they're all aged on site). There’s seafood too, which isn’t nearly as good as the meat, and at lunch, hamburgers, which are quite delicious. Club Paris is as much a bar as it is a restaurant, and it has been since opening  in 1957. “Before that it was a funeral home,” the bartender said, pouring scotch for a diner who had just inhaled a rib eye. “They used to do the embalming where the kitchen is. Now we do it out here.”