Planning a trip to Andalusia

Visitor Information

Tourist Offices

The Spanish Tourist Office's official site can be found at www.okspain.org.

In the U.S. -- 666 Fifth Ave., 35th Floor, New York, NY 10103 (tel. 212/265-8822; fax 212/265-8864); 845 N. Michigan Ave., Ste. 915E, Chicago, IL 60611 (tel. 312/642-1992; fax 312/642-9817); 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 956, Beverly Hills, CA 90211 (tel. 323/658-7188; fax 323/658-1061); 1395 Brickell Ave., Ste. 1130, Miami, FL 33131 (tel. 305/358-1992; fax 305/358-8223).

In Canada -- 2 Bloor St. W., Ste. 3402, Toronto, ON M4W 3E2 (tel. 416/961-3131; fax 416/961-1992).

In the U.K. -- 79 New Cavendish St., 2nd Floor, London W1W 6XB (tel. 020/7486-8077; fax 020/7486-8034).

Websites

For information on Spain in general, check out Tourist Office of Spain (www.okspain.org), All About Spain (www.red2000.com), Cybersp@in (www.cyberspain.com).

For Seville: Seville by All About Spain (www.red2000.com), Sevilla On Line (www.sol.com), Seville Travel Guide (www.aboutsevilla.com), Andalucia.com (www.andalucia.com), Andalucía: There's Only One (www.andalucia.org).

For Málaga: Málaga Travel Guide (www.aboutmalaga.com), Costa del Sol Tourist Board (www.visitcostadelsol.com), La Costa del Sol (www.costadelsol.net).

For Granada: Granada en la Red (www.granadainfo.com), Granada Travel Guide (www.aboutgranada.com).

For Cádiz: Andalusia.com (www.andalucia.com).

Maps

For one of the best overviews of the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal), pick up a copy of Michelin map no. 990 (folded version) or no. 460 (spiral-bound version). For more detailed looks at Spain, including many minor roads, Michelin has a series of six maps (nos. 441-446) of specific regions, such as Andalusia.

For extensive touring, purchase Mapas de Carreteras -- España y Portugal, available at most bookstores in Spain. This cartographic compendium provides an overview of Spain and includes road and street maps of some major cities.

The American Automobile Association (www.aaa.com) publishes a regional map of Andalusia that's available free to members at most AAA offices in the United States. Incidentally, the AAA is associated with the Real Automóvil Club de España (RACE; tel. 90-240-45-45; www.race.es). This organization can supply helpful information about road conditions in Spain, including tourist and travel advice. It will also provide limited emergency road service.

Calendar of Events

Some dates below are approximate, as exact days may not be announced until 6 weeks before the actual festival. Confirm all dates with the Tourist Office of Spain.

January

Granada Reconquest Festival, Granada. The whole city celebrates the Christians' victory over the Moors in 1492 and the highest tower at the Alhambra opens to the public. For information, contact the Tourist Office of Granada (tel. 95-822-59-90). January 2.

Día de los Reyes (Three Kings Day), throughout Andalusia. Parades are held all over the province on the eve of the Festival of the Epiphany. Various "kings" dispense candy to kids. January 6.

Andrés Segovia International Guitar Competition, Almuñecar. The great Segovia, who as a young man fell in love with this part of Spain, created the "Andrés Segovia Award" in recognition of the importance of the Spanish guitar. Talented musicians from all over the world participate. Call tel. 95-864-04-25 (www.almunecar.com) for more information. For 5 days the first week in January.

February

Carnavales de Cádiz, Cádiz. The oldest and best-attended carnival in Spain is a freewheeling event full of costumes, parades, strolling troubadours, and drum beating. Call tel. 95-622-71-11 or go to www.carnavaldecadiz.com for more information. Mid-February.

March

Semana Santa (Holy Week), Seville. Although many of the country's smaller towns stage similar celebrations (especially notable in Málaga), the festivities in Seville are by far the most elaborate. From Palm Sunday until Easter Sunday, a series of processions with hooded penitents moves to the piercing wail of the saeta, a love song to the Virgin or Christ. Pasos (heavy floats) bear images of the Virgin or Christ. Again, make hotel reservations way in advance. Call the Seville Office of Tourism for details (tel. 95-422-14-04). Usually the last week of March.

April

Bullfights, all over Spain. Holy week traditionally kicks off the season all over Spain, especially in Seville.

Feria de Sevilla (Seville Fair). This is the most celebrated week of revelry in the country, with all-night flamenco dancing, merrymaking in casetas (entertainment booths), bullfights, horseback riding, flower-decked coaches, and dancing in the streets. Reserve a hotel early. For general information and exact festival dates, contact the Office of Tourism in Seville (tel. 95-422-14-14; www.turismo.sevilla.org). Second week after Easter.

May

Jerez May Horse Fair. Jerez de la Frontera stages this spectacular equestrian event at Gonzalez Hontoria Park. Many of the greatest riders, certainly some of the world's finest horses, take part in various endurance trials, coach driving, and dressage competitions. Call tel. 95-633-11-50 (www.andalusia.com) for more information. First week of May.

Festival de los Patios, Córdoba. At this famous fair, residents decorate their patios with cascades of flowers. Visitors wander from patio to patio. Call tel. 95-747-12-35 for more information. First 2 weeks of May.

Romería del Rocío (Pilgrimage of the Virgin of the Dew), El Rocío (Huelva). The most famous pilgrimage in Andalusia attracts a million people. Fifty men carry the statue of the Virgin 15km (9 miles) to Almonte for consecration. Check www.donquijote.org. Third week of May.

June

Corpus Christi, all over Andalusia. A major holiday on the Spanish calendar, this event is marked by big processions, especially in Málaga, Seville, and Granada. Mid-June.

International Music and Dance Festival, Granada. Granada's prestigious program of dance and music attracts international artists who perform at the Alhambra and other venues. It's a major event on Europe's cultural calendar; reserve well in advance. For the schedule and tickets, contact El Festival Internacional de Música y Danza de Granada (tel. 95-822-18-44; www.granadafestival.org). Last week of June to first week of July.

July

Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen. In mid-July, the towns and fishing villages along the southern coast of Spain honor la Virgen del Carmen, the protector of seamen. An effigy of the virgin is paraded through the streets and taken for a sail on one of the gaily adorned boats in the harbor. The best place to see this fiesta is Estepona, but other major events honoring the saint take place in Málaga, Nerja, Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola, and Marbella. Check www.andalusia.com. July 16.

August

Feria de Málaga (Málaga Fair). One of the longest summer fairs in southern Europe (generally lasting 10 days), this celebration kicks off with fireworks and is highlighted by a parade of Arabian horses pulling brightly decorated carriages. Participants are dressed in colorful Andalusian garb. Plazas rattle with castanets, and wine is dispensed by the gallon. For information, call tel. 95-221-34-45; www.feria-de-malaga.es. The weekend before August 19.

Feria de Agosto, Málaga. Málaga's major fiesta of the summer honors the Reconquest of their city on August 19, 1487, from the Moors. The Old Town turns into one big street party with lots of entertainment. Locals dress up in the traditional costumes, and food and wine flow freely. At night the celebration moves to the city's fairgrounds in the suburbs. Call tel. 95-205-86-94 or visit www.feria-de-malaga.es. August 19.

September

Feria de Pedro Romero, Ronda. This fair is famous for a bullfight on the first Saturday in September. The matadors dress in "suits of light" from the 18th and 19th centuries. Before they face the bulls, horse-drawn carriages parade through the town with participants in what Andalusians call "Goyesque costumes." The procession ends at the bullring. Call tel. 95-287-12-72; www.spanish-fiestas.com for more information. First week in September.

Autumn Festival, Jerez de la Frontera. The whole sherry-producing town celebrates with a grape harvest parade, a "treading of the grapes" ceremony, a horse show, horse races, a locally staged opera, a flamenco festival, sports activities, and various religious observances honoring the town's patron saint. For more information, call tel. 95-635-98-63; www.andalucia-travelguide.com. All month.

October

Grape Harvest Festival, Jerez de la Frontera. Andalusia's major wine festival honors the famous sherry of Jerez, with 5 days of processions, flamenco dancing, bullfights, livestock on parade, and, of course, sherry drinking. For information, call tel. 95-633-11-50; www.whatsonwhen.com. Mid-October (dates vary).

November

All Saints' Day, all over Spain. This public holiday is reverently celebrated with relatives and friends laying flowers on the graves of loved ones. November 1.

December

Fiesta Mayor de Verdiales, outside Málaga. Verdiales are traditional forms of song and dance in Málaga province. On April Fools' Day, there's a competition staged at Venta San Cayetano del Puerto de la Torre on the outskirts of the city, to decide which village troupe can sing and dance the best. The party goes on all night, with music, food stalls, and lots of flowing wine. Check www.andalucia.com. December 28.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Because of Andalusia's many hill towns and endless flights of stairs, visitors with disabilities may have difficulty getting around the province, but conditions are slowly improving. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair accessible. However, since most places have limited, if any, facilities for people with disabilities, you might consider taking an organized tour specifically designed to accommodate travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [800/225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com (tel. 877/424-7633) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription.

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for disabled and elderly people.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

Money

Regrettably, Andalusia is no longer a budget destination. In such major cities as Seville or Granada, you can often find hotels charging the same prices as in London or Paris.

Taken as a whole, though, Andalusia remains slightly below the cost-of-living index of such countries as England, Italy, Germany, and France.

Prices are generally high, but you get good value for your money. Hotels are usually clean and comfortable, and restaurants, for the most part, offer good cuisine and ample portions made with quality ingredients. Trains are fast and on time.

In Andalusia, many prices for children -- generally defined as ages 6 to 17 -- are lower than for adults. Fees for children 5 and under are generally waived.

Foreign money and euros can be brought into Spain without any restrictions. There is no restriction on taking foreign money out of the country, either.

The U.S. Dollar & the Euro: At the time of this writing, US$1 was worth approximately .625 Eurocents. Inversely stated, 1€ was worth approximately US$1.60.

The British Pound, the U.S. Dollar & the Euro: At press time, £1 equaled approximately US$2, and approximately 1.25€.

The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar & the Euro: At press time, C$1 equaled approximately US$1 and approximately 1.60€.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com.

You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal.

Important note: Make sure that the PINs on your bank cards and credit cards will work in Spain. You'll need a four-digit code (six digits won't work); if you have a six-digit code, you'll have to go into your bank and get a new PIN for your trip. If you're unsure about this, contact Cirrus or PLUS.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks for a service charge of 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee [for checks up to $1,500] at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks.

Emergency Cash -- The Fastest Way

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you from Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). You must present valid ID to pick up the cash at the Western Union office. However, in most countries you can pick up a money transfer even if you don't have valid identification, as long as you can answer a test question provided by the sender. Be sure to let the sender know in advance that you don't have ID. If you need to use a test question instead of ID, the sender must take cash to his or her local Western Union office rather than transfer the money over the phone or online.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you confirm your security information. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler's check exchange rates (and service fees).

In Andalusia, the most commonly accepted credit cards are MasterCard and Visa. Of secondary importance are American Express and Diners Club.

More and more places in Spain are moving from cards with magnetic strips to the newer "chip and PIN" system. With this newer type of credit card, you must enter a four-digit PIN (personal identification number) on a keypad as part of the transaction. In fact, as a means of reducing credit card fraud, a limited number of establishments in Spain might not accept your credit card unless it adheres to these standards.

In the changeover in technology, some retailers have falsely concluded that they can no longer accept swipe cards, or can't accept signature cards that don't require a PIN. At least as of press time for this edition, both the new and old cards are accepted in most shops, hotels, and restaurants.

Fast Facts

American Express -- The American Express number to call in Spain is tel. 90-210-09-56. A staff member will direct you to the nearest location to deal with your Amex needs.

Area Codes -- Dial 011, then the country code for Spain (34). Drop the zero before dialing the city area code.

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 2pm and Saturday 9:30am to 1pm. Most offices are open Monday to Friday 9am to 5 or 5:30pm; the longtime practice of early closings in summer seems to be dying out. In restaurants, lunch is usually 1 to 4pm and dinner 9 to 11:30pm or midnight. There are no set rules for the opening of bars and taverns; many open at 8am, others at noon. Most stay open until 1:30am or later. Major stores are open Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 8pm; smaller establishments, however, often take a siesta, doing business 9:30am to 1:30pm and 4:30 to 8pm. Hours can vary from store to store.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 18. Bars, taverns, and cafeterias usually open at 8am, and many serve alcohol to 1:30am or later. Generally, you can purchase alcoholic beverages at almost any market.

Drugstores -- To find an open pharmacy (farmacia) outside normal business hours, check the list of stores posted on the door of any drugstore. The law requires drugstores to operate on a rotating system of hours so that there's always a drugstore open somewhere, even Sunday at midnight.

Electricity -- The U.S. uses 110-volt electricity, Spain 220-volt. Most low-voltage electronics such as laptops, iPods, and cellphone chargers will do fine with 220-V. It's still smart to check with the manufacturer to determine how your appliance will handle a voltage switch. If it can't, a voltage converter can be used; these are available at such outlets as Radio Shack. Small adaptors change a plug from a U.S. flat prong to a Spanish round prong so you can fit it into a local socket, but they don't work as electrical converters. Adaptors are sold at most hardware stores (ferreteria) in Spain, but converters are hard to come by. Better purchase one before flying off to Spain.

Embassies & Consulates -- If you lose your passport, fall seriously ill, get into legal trouble, or have some other serious problem, your embassy or consulate can help. Regrettably, most of these offices are in Madrid. However, there is a U.S. Consulate in Seville and a British Consulate in Málaga. These are the Madrid addresses and hours: The United States Embassy, Calle Serrano 75 (tel. 91-587-22-00; Metro: Núñez de Balboa), is open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm. The Canadian Embassy, Núñez de Balboa 35 (tel. 91-423-32-50; Metro: Velázquez), is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5:30pm, and Friday 8:30am to 2:30pm. The British Embassy, Calle Fernando el Santo 16 (tel. 91-700-82-00; Metro: Colón), is open Monday to Friday 9am to 1:30pm and 3 to 6pm. The Republic of Ireland has an embassy at Paseo Castellana 46 (tel. 91-436-40-93; Metro: Serrano); it's open Monday to Friday 9am to 2pm. The Australian Embassy, Plaza Diego de Ordas 3, Edificio Santa Engracia 120 (tel. 91-353-66-00; Metro: Ríos Rosas), is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5pm and Friday 8:30am to 2:15pm. Citizens of New Zealand have an embassy at Plaza de la Lealtad 2 (tel. 91-523-02-26; Metro: Banco de España); it's open Monday to Friday 9am to 2pm and 3 to 5:30pm.

Emergencies -- The national emergency number for Spain (except in the Basque country) is tel. 006; in the Basque country it is tel. 088.

Etiquette & Customs -- In Franco's day, many visitors would be arrested for the skimpy, revealing clothes worn around the city streets of Spain today. Nonetheless, it is considered extremely rude for men to go bare-chested except at the beach or poolside. Spaniards and church officials do object to you visiting churches and cathedrals scantily clad even on the hottest day of summer. Casual dress is acceptable, but you should "cover up" as much as possible.

In spite of what you've heard in days of yore, when Spaniards showed up for appointments 2 or 3 hours late, most nationals now show up on time as they do in the rest of the E.U. countries. It's always wise for men to wear a suit for business meetings. Spanish speakers should address strangers with the formal usted instead of the more familiar tú.

It is extremely offensive to make critical comments to Spaniards about their country -- politics, religion, customs, their approval of same-sex marriages, whatever. Spaniards are rather formal in social matters. Spaniards are addressed as Señor for Mr., Señora for Mrs., and Señorita for Ms. It is customary to eat late in Spain, at least after 8:30pm. If you arrive in a dining room at 6pm, you'll seem provincial. It is polite to keep both hands visible during the course of a meal.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Service stations abound on the major arteries of Spain and in such big cities as Seville and Granada. They are open 24 hours a day. On secondary roads, most stations open at 7am daily, closing at 11pm or midnight, so plan accordingly. In today's Spain, stations are generally self-service. Prices are the same as at a full-service station. Newer models of automobiles take unleaded gas called gasoline sin plomo. The price of gasoline in Spain, especially in these uncertain times, varies from week to week, but always expect it to be expensive, far more so than in the States. Most stations will accept credit cards.

Holidays -- Holidays include January 1 (New Year's Day), January 6 (Feast of the Epiphany), March 19 (Feast of St. Joseph), Good Friday, Easter Monday, May 1 (May Day), June 10 (Corpus Christi), June 29 (Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul), July 25 (Feast of St. James), August 15 (Feast of the Assumption), October 12 (Spain's National Day), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Immaculate Conception), and December 25 (Christmas).

No matter how large or small, every city or town in Spain also celebrates its local saint's day. In Madrid it's May 15 (St. Isidro). You'll rarely know what the local holidays are in your next destination in Spain. Try to keep money on hand, because you may arrive in town only to find banks and stores closed. In some cases, intercity bus services are suspended on holidays.

Language -- The official language in Spain is Castilian Spanish (or Castellano). Andalusians speak it with a southern accent. In shops, restaurants, hotels, and nightclubs catering to visitors, English is commonly spoken.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss.

To report a lost credit card, contact the following toll-free in Spain:

American Express (tel.91-743-70-00)

Diners Club (tel. 90-110-10-11)

MasterCard (tel. 90-097-12-31)

Visa (tel. 90-099-11-24)

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost .78€ ($1.30) up to 15 grams, and letters to Britain or other E.U. countries cost .58€ (85¢) up to 20 grams. Letters within Spain cost .29€ (45¢). Postcards have the same rates as letters. Allow about 8 days for delivery to North America, generally less to the United Kingdom; in some cases, letters take 2 weeks to reach North America. Rates change frequently, so check at your local hotel before mailing anything. As for surface mail to North America, forget it. Chances are you'll be home long before your letter arrives.

Police -- The national emergency number is 006 throughout Spain, except in the Basque country, where it is 088.

Smoking -- On January 1, 2006, Spain banned smoking in the workplace. Restaurants, bars, and nightclubs of a certain size have to designate certain areas as nonsmoking, and smoking is also banned on public transportation and in other areas such as cultural centers.

Taxes -- The internal sales tax (known in Spain as IVA) ranges from 7% to 33%, depending on the commodity being sold. Food, wine, and basic necessities are taxed at 7%; most goods and services (including car rentals) at 13%; luxury items (jewelry, all tobacco, imported liquors) at 33%; and hotels at 7%.

If you are not a European Union resident and make purchases in Spain worth more than 90€ ($144), you can get a tax refund. To get this refund, you must complete three copies of a form that the store will give you, detailing the nature of your purchase and its value. Citizens of non-E.U. countries show the purchase and the form to the Spanish Customs Office. The shop is supposed to refund the amount due you. Inquire at the time of purchase how they will do so and discuss in what currency your refund will arrive.

Time -- Spain is 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States. Daylight saving time is in effect from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in September.

Tipping -- Don't overtip. The government requires that restaurant and hotel bills include their service charges -- usually 15% of the bill. However, that doesn't mean you should skip out of a place without dispensing an extra euro or two. Some guidelines:

Your hotel porter should get .80€ ($1.30) per bag. Maids should be given 1€ ($1.60) per day, more if you're generous. Tip doormen .75€ ($1.20) for assisting with baggage and .50€ (80¢) for calling a cab. Tipping a concierge depends on how much you have used his or her services. For example, some visitors never ask for anything from a concierge. In that case, you can tip nothing. Sometimes a concierge will submit a bill for services rendered, including making restaurant reservations, arranging a bus tour, or securing theater tickets. In that case, you can pay the bill and check out.

Should a concierge not submit a bill, and you have used his services only a couple of times, 5€ ($8) is a sufficient tip in most deluxe and first-class hotels. If you've used concierge services a lot, 20€ ($32) would be an appropriate tip. In less expensive hotels, you generally tip much less, perhaps 1€ or 2€ ($1.60 or $3.20) for some minor service rendered.

For cabdrivers, add about 10% to the fare as shown on the meter. At airports, such as Barajas in Madrid and major terminals, the porter who handles your luggage will present you with a fixed-charge bill.

Service is included in restaurant bills. But it is the custom to tip extra. Some Spanish diners leave nothing if the service was outright bad. Other, more generous diners tip as much as 5% to 10% if the service was good.

Barbers and hairdressers expect a 10% to 15% tip. Tour guides expect 2€ ($3.20), although a tip is not mandatory. Theater and bullfight ushers get from .50€ (80¢).

Toilets -- In Spain they're called aseos, servicios or lavabos, and are labeled caballeros for men and damas or señoras for women. If you can't find any, go into a bar, but you should order something.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.)

U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518, and U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline tel. 404/332-4559.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Many hotels offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2007-2008, 16th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Health & Insurance

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- You may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. U.S. travelers who require additional medical insurance should try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their local health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com (tel. 0845/345-5708), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Staying Healthy

Andalusia should not pose any major health hazards. The rich cuisine -- garlic, olive oil, and wine -- may give some travelers mild diarrhea, so take along some antidiarrhea medicine, moderate your eating habits, and even though the water is generally safe, drink bottled water only. Fish and shellfish from the horrendously polluted Mediterranean should only be eaten if cooked.

If you are traveling around southern Spain over the summer, limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor and apply it liberally.

General Availability of Healthcare -- If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435 or 404/498-1515; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/en/policyandguidance/healthadvicefortravellers
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to an European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Staying Safe

Although most of the estimated one million American tourists have trouble-free visits to Andalusia each year, the principal tourist areas have been experiencing an increase in petty crime. Seville and Málaga, in particular, have reported growing incidents of muggings and attacks, and older tourists and Asian Americans seem to be particularly at risk. Criminals frequent tourist areas and major attractions such as museums, monuments, restaurants, hotels, beach resorts, trains, train stations, airports, subways, and ATMs. Travelers should exercise caution, carry limited cash and credit cards, and leave extra cash, credit cards, passports, and personal documents in a safe location.

Theft from parked cars is also common. Travelers are advised not to leave valuables in parked cars and to keep doors locked, windows rolled up, and valuables out of sight when driving. "Good Samaritan" scams are unfortunately common. A passing car will attempt to divert the driver's attention by indicating there is a mechanical problem. If the driver stops to check the vehicle, accomplices steal from the car while the driver is looking elsewhere. Drivers should be cautious about accepting help from anyone other than a uniformed Spanish police officer or Civil Guard.

The loss or theft abroad of a passport should be reported immediately to the local police and your nearest embassy or consulate.

Regions in Brief

In A.D. 711 Muslim armies swept into Iberia from strongholds in what is now Morocco. Since then, Spain's southernmost district has been enmeshed in the mores, art, and architecture of the Muslim world.

During the 900s, Andalusia blossomed into a sophisticated society -- advanced in philosophy, mathematics, and trading -- that far outstripped a feudal Europe still trapped in the Dark Ages. Moorish domination ended completely in 1492, when Granada was captured by the armies of Isabella and Ferdinand, but even today the region offers echoes of this Muslim occupation. Andalusia is a dry district that isn't highly prosperous and depends heavily on tourism.

The major cities of Andalusia deserve at least a week, with overnights in Seville (hometown of Carmen, Don Giovanni, and the barber); Córdoba, site of the Mezquita, one of history's most versatile religious edifices; and Cádiz, the seaport where thousands of ships embarked on their colonization of the New World. Perhaps most interesting of all is Granada, a town of such impressive artistry that it inspired many of the works by the 20th-century romantic poet Federico García Lorca.

Cadiz & the Costa de la Luz

Dotted with churches and monuments, the old port city of Cádiz lies on a limestone rock emerging from the sea at the end of a 9km-long (6-mile) promontory projecting into the Atlantic. This historic core of old Cádiz is linked to Andalusia by a bridge. Walls rising to a height of 15m (50 ft.) protect the center from the turbulent waves of the ocean.

Some claim that Cádiz is Europe's oldest city, citing Hercules as its founder. Actually the Phoenicians founded the city back in 1100 B.C. Wealth from the Spanish conquistadores arrived here, eventually attracting unwanted attention from Sir Francis Drake, who raided the port in 1587. This was the first of many such attacks from the British fleets. In 1812 Spain's first constitution was declared here.

Two days are sufficient to explore the sights in Cádiz, a workaday port whose attractions do not equal those of Granada or Seville.

If you have extra time, you can retreat to the city's beaches or those along the Costa de la Luz, which sprawls both east and west of Cádiz. On a clear day you can see across the water to Tangier, Morocco. The coast is riddled with beaches and fishing villages, many of which would be idyllic for a laid-back vacation. In particular, Tarifa, the windsurfing capital of Europe, comes to mind.

Córdoba

This ancient city, founded by the Carthaginians and later the Roman Baetica, reached its zenith in the 10th century as the capital of the great Caliphate. It was also the greatest spiritual and scientific center of the Western world, with some 300 mosques and one of the world's greatest universities. Those glory days are long gone, but Córdoba's architecture still makes it one of the most appealing cities in Europe.

Today, with a population of some 310,000, Córdoba is visited mainly because of its celebrated mosque, La Mezquita, the world's third largest. Incidentally, it hasn't been used as a mosque since King Ferdinand and his armies attacked in 1236. After Córdoba fell, the mosque was reconsecrated as a Christian church. As amazing as it sounds, a cathedral was launched in 1523 within the walls of the original mosque -- and it still stands today.

You can spend 2 to 3 days in Córdoba, wandering in its Old Quarter and exploring an alcázar (fortress) constructed by Christian kings in 1327.

Costa del Sol

What the Riviera is to France, the Costa del Sol is to Spain. The "Sun Coast" sprawls across the southernmost edge of Spain between Algeciras to the west -- across from the rocky heights of British-controlled Gibraltar -- and the rather dull Almería to the east. Think traffic jams, suntan oil, sun-bleached high-rises, and nearly naked flesh. The beaches here are some of the best and most popular in Europe, but this can also be an overly crowded, crime-filled region.

Once known for its scented orange groves and rolling fields of silvery olive trees, the Costa del Sol of today is an overdeveloped urban sprawl of housing developments, hotels, resorts, tourist complexes, and amusement centers, along with such better attractions as beaches and golf courses.

The tawdry, carnival-like atmosphere of the coast is a turnoff to many North American visitors who prefer to spend their time exploring the more artistic cities of Andalusia, especially Seville and Granada.

Unless you travel by car or rail from Madrid, chances are you'll arrive by plane via Málaga, the district's most historic city and the capital of the Costa del Sol. Hans Christian Andersen praised it, and Pablo Picasso was born here. Much more staid than Torremolinos, it is more of a workaday city than a sprawling resort. With its fortress, cathedral, and bullring, along with a Picasso museum, it has more cultural attractions than any other place along the coast. Málaga also enjoys the best transportation links along the entire coast, both from the air and by rail from other leading Andalusian cities as well as Madrid and Barcelona.

If you're seeking pockets of posh and beach resorts that are still some of the greatest in Spain, anchor at Marbella, which in the 1960s, before it was overrun, was one of the chicest resorts in all of Europe. Frank Sinatra, Sophia Loren, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor were once regulars. Today's star seekers may spot Antonio Banderas.

One modern development that has managed to remain distinctive and upmarket is Puerto Banús, a neo-Moorish village that curves around a sheltered marina where the wintering rich dock their yachts.

If Torremolinos was ever chic, it was early in the 1960s when two lovers, James Kirkwood (A Chorus Line) and James Leo Herlihy (Midnight Cowboy), lived here in a romantic little villa. Today the beautiful people are long gone, and Torremolinos gets the low-budget tours from the Midlands of England and other parts of northern Europe. Although some visitors like this urban sprawl of mediocre beaches, "lager life," after-dark diversions, and package tours galore, you should anchor here only if you want to be caught up in the human circus that descends during the summer months. If you're set on visiting, do so in June before the hordes arrive to dance the night away.

Gibraltar

Thrust up from the sea some 200 million years ago, Gibraltar is a tiny peninsula lying between the Spanish town of La Linea de la Concepción on the Costa del Sol and industrial Algeciras. It is just 6.4km (4 miles) long and 2km (1 1/4 miles) wide.

At 449m (1,476 ft.), the Rock of Gibraltar -- known to the ancients -- guards the entrance to the Mediterranean. Through its narrow strait, waters from the more turbulent Atlantic pass into the calmer Mediterranean.

We'll be really blunt: There is no compelling reason to visit this self-governing British colony -- "Gib," as locals affectionately call it. Border crossings can be tedious. Except for a few attractions, such as the Upper Rock Nature Reserve and the famous Barbary Apes, there just isn't a lot to do. Sure, you can enjoy fish and chips and pints of bitter, but you'll find better versions of both in London. Many visiting journalists consider Gibraltar a tourist trap.

Often visitors go simply because Gibraltar is there. Visit if you must, but don't expect a grand old time. When you cross the border, you leave Spanish culture behind, but what you find is not quite British either. It's . . . well, it's Gibraltar.

Granada

One of the hardest questions a travel writer to Andalusia can be asked is: "If I don't have time for both, should it be Granada or Seville?" Only if forced at gunpoint would we say Granada -- and that's because of its Alhambra, resident palace of the Moorish rulers of the Nasrid dynasty. It is one of the world's greatest architectural treasures.

Granada, of course, has much more to offer. Much of its charm derives from a mellow blending of its Eastern and Western architectural influences and customs. Other major attractions include the Gothic cathedral; Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), burial place of the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella; and the Albaicín quarter, a cone-shaped network of tightly packed white houses that was the heart of Muslim Granada. On a hot summer day, there is no cooler place to be than the Generalife, the summer palace of the former sultans and their harems, standing on 30 hectares (75 acres) of grounds. Granada's prestigious festival of music and dance takes place here.

The capital of eastern Andalusia, Granada lies in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, with a population of some 300,000. Allow at least 2 to 3 days for a proper visit.

Jaén

The capital of its own province, the ancient city of Jaén, and the even more interesting historic towns of Ubeda and Baeza, can be visited before you reach Córdoba -- that is, if you're heading south from Madrid.

Jaén was called Giyen when it lay on the ancient caravan route used by the Arabs. At the time of the Christian Reconquest of southern Spain, the armies of Ferdinand and Isabella used it as their gateway to Andalusia. That's not a bad idea for today's visitor, who can spend a day exploring Jaén and another visiting the "twin" towns of Ubeda and Baeza.

Jaén is the center of one of the world's largest olive-growing districts, making it a virtual island in a sea of olive trees. Jaén's massive cathedral from the 16th century is one of the grandest examples of Spanish Renaissance architecture, and you can wander for hours in its Old Town, originally a Moorish settlement.

The town of Ubeda is known as the "Andalusian Salamanca" because of its numerous Renaissance buildings. It's a harmonious town filled with churches, monuments, and palaces. Baeza, too, is filled with elegant town houses and noble mansions, many constructed during its heyday in the 16th century. Olive groves and vineyards envelop Baeza.

Nerja

East of Málaga, the town of Nerja -- our favorite along the entire Costa del Sol -- opens onto the "Balcony of Europe," a marble-paved projection towering over a headland and jutting out toward the sea. This seaside resort lies at the mouth of the Río Chillar on a site below the Sierra de Mihara.

Although the tourist boom has led to a mass of new buildings on its periphery, its historic core is still one of the coast's most charming, with whitewashed houses and narrow streets for rambling at leisure.

Nerja can be easily seen in a day. Its main attraction is the Cuevas de Nerja, caves with magnificent stalactites and bizarre rock formations.

Ronda & the Pueblos Blancos/Sherry Triangle

One of the leading attractions of southern Spain, Ronda, at an altitude of 698m (2,300 ft.), is a town built on a triangular plateau, with its apex pointing south. It is divided into two towns by the 150m (150-ft.) gorge of the Río Guadalevín. At the southern tip of Ronda is La Ciudad or the Old Town, which grew up on the Roman settlement of Arunda. A trio of bridges spanning the gorge links the old and new towns.

Ronda deserves at least 2 days, which will allow you to explore its antique architecture, visit one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, and take in its Moorish and Roman ruins. Those with a car and an extra 2 days can explore the so-called Pueblos Blancos (White Towns) of Andalusia in the hilly hinterland above the Costa del Sol. The houses in these agricultural villages are characterized by whitewashed walls. The higher you climb into the sierras, the prettier these villages grow. Favorite destinations are Arcos de la Frontera, Olvera, and Sanlúcar. Those with yet another day can do some wine tasting at the sherry-producing wine bodegas of Jerez de la Frontera, northeast of Cádiz. Jerez is also the equestrian center of Andalusia. Watching a "horse ballet" at a dressage school is one of the highlights of a visit to southern Spain.

Seville

Andalusia's grandest city links the heart of the province with its coastal plains and maritime routes. Standing on the Río Guadalquivir, it lies 80km (50 miles) north of the Atlantic Ocean with a Mediterranean climate but irregular rainfall, which means the sun shines 2,796 hours per year.

No longer Spain's most populous city, it is still an urban sprawl once you branch out from its historic core. The population numbers more than 800,000 Sevillanos.

Seville reached the zenith of its power in the 15th and 16th centuries when it was the gateway to the New World explored by Columbus. At that time Seville was the fourth-largest city on the globe, the place where treasure ships landed with their cargoes from the Americas.

Allow at least 3 or 4 nights to explore the capital of Andalusia, including such attractions as its world-famous cathedral, La Giralda, Reales Alcázares, and its Museo de Bellas Artes, along with its historic core, Santa Cruz.

Tips on Accommodations

From castles converted into hotels to modern high-rise resorts overlooking the Mediterranean, Spain has some of the most varied hotel accommodations in the world -- with equally varied price ranges.

One- to Five-Star Hotels -- The Spanish government rates hotels by according them stars. A five-star hotel is truly deluxe, with deluxe prices; a one-star hotel consists of the most modest accommodations officially recognized as a hotel by the government. A four-star hotel offers first-class accommodations; a three-star hotel is moderately priced; and a one- or two-star hotel is inexpensively priced. The government grants stars based on such amenities as elevators, private bathrooms, and air-conditioning. If a hotel is classified as a residencia, it means that it serves breakfast (usually) but no other meals.

Hostales -- Not to be confused with a hostel for students, an hostal is a modest hotel without services, where you can save money by carrying your own bags and the like. You'll know it's an hostal if a small S follows the capital letter H on the blue plaque by the door. Hostales with three stars are about the equivalent of hotels with two stars.

Pensions -- These boardinghouses are among the least expensive accommodations, but you're required to take either full board (three meals) or half board, which is breakfast plus lunch or dinner.

Casas Huespedes & Fondas -- These are the cheapest places in Spain and can be recognized by the light-blue plaques at the door displaying CH and F, respectively. They are invariably basic but respectable establishments.

Paradores -- The Spanish government runs a series of unique state-owned inns called paradores, which now blanket the country. Deserted castles, monasteries, palaces, and other buildings have been taken over and converted into hotels. Today there are 86 paradores in all, and they're documented in a booklet called Visiting the Paradores, available at Spanish tourist offices.

At great expense, modern bathrooms, steam heat, and the like have been added to these buildings, yet classic Spanish architecture, where it existed, has been retained. Establishments are often furnished with antiques or at least good reproductions and decorative objects typical of the country.

Meals are also served in these government-owned inns. Usually, typical dishes of the region are featured. Paradores are likely to be overcrowded in the summer months, so advance reservations, arranged through any travel agent, are wise.

The government also operates a type of accommodations known as albergues: These are comparable to motels, lining the road in usually hotel-scarce areas for the convenience of passing motorists. A client is not allowed to stay in an albergue for more than 48 hours, and the management doesn't accept reservations.

In addition, the government runs refugios (refuges), mostly in remote areas, attracting hunters, fishers, and mountain climbers. Another state-sponsored establishment is the hostería, or specialty restaurant. Hosterías don't offer rooms; decorated in the style of a particular province, they serve regional dishes at reasonable prices.

The central office for paradores is Paradores de España, Requeña 3, 28013 Madrid (tel. 90-254-79-79; www.parador.es). The U.S. representative is Marketing Ahead, 381 Park Ave. S., New York, NY 10016 (tel. 800/223-1356 or 212/686-9213; www.marketingahead.com).

Renting a House or Apartment

If you rent a home or an apartment, you can save money on accommodations and dining and still take daily trips to see the surrounding area.

Apartments in Spain generally fall into two different categories: hotel apartamentos and residencia apartamentos. The hotel apartments have full facilities, with chamber service, equipped kitchenettes, and often restaurants and bars. The cheaper residencia apartments, also called apartamentos turísticos, are fully furnished with kitchenettes but lack the facilities of the hotel complexes.

One rental company to try is Hometours International (tel. 865/690-8484 or 866/367-4668), which mainly handles properties in Andalusia. Their 40-page color catalog has descriptions and pictures ($5 to cover postage and handling). Units are rented for a minimum of 7 days.

Another agency is ILC (International Lodging Corp.; tel. 888/SPAIN-44 [888/772-4644] or 212/228-5900; www.ilcweb.com), which rents privately owned apartments, houses, and villas for a week or more. It also offers access to suites in well-known hotels for stays of a week or longer, sometimes at bargain rates. Rental units, regardless of their size, usually contain a kitchen. The company's listings cover accommodations in Seville and Granada.

Getting There

By Plane

From North America -- Flights from the U.S. East Coast to Spain take 6 to 7 hours. Spain's national carrier, Iberia Airlines (tel. 800/772-4642; www.iberia.com), has more routes into and within Spain than any other airline. It offers daily nonstop service to Madrid from New York, Chicago, Miami, and San Juan. Also available are attractive rates on fly/drive packages within Iberia and Europe.

A good money-saver to consider is Iberia's Europass. Available only to passengers who simultaneously arrange for a transatlantic flight on Iberia and a minimum of two additional flights, it allows passage on any flight within Iberia's European or Mediterranean dominion for $139 to $169 per person one-way for each additional flight. This is especially attractive for passengers wishing to combine trips to Spain with, for example, visits to such far-flung destinations as Cairo, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Moscow, and Munich. The Europass can be purchased as a part of an Iberian Air itinerary from your home country only.

Iberia's main Spain-based competitor is Air Europa (tel. 888/238-7672; www.aireuropa.com), which offers nonstop service from Newark Airport to Madrid, with continuing service to major cities within Spain. Fares are usually lower than Iberia's.

American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) offers daily nonstop service to Madrid from its massive hub in Miami.

Delta (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com) runs daily nonstop service from Atlanta and New York (JFK) to both Madrid and Barcelona. Delta's Dream Vacation department has independent fly/drive packages, land packages, and escorted bus tours.

America West/US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) has connecting flights to Philadelphia from more than 50 cities throughout the United States, Canada, and the Bahamas.

From the U.K. -- British Airways (BA; tel. 0870/850-9850) and Iberia (tel. 0870/609-0500 in London; www.iberia.com) are the two major carriers flying between England and Spain. More than a dozen daily flights, on either BA or Iberia, depart from Heathrow and Gatwick airports. The Midlands is served by flights from Manchester and Birmingham, two major airports that can also be used by Scottish travelers flying to Spain. There are about seven flights a day from London to Madrid and back and at least six to Barcelona (trip time: 2-2 1/2 hr.), where you can tap into Iberia's domestic network, flying, for example, to Seville or the Costa del Sol. The best air deals on scheduled flights from England are those requiring a Saturday night stopover.

Good sources of "slashed" charter fares serving regional airports are Time Out, the Evening Standard, and the Sunday editions of most papers. Figure on saving approximately 10% to 15% on regularly scheduled flight tickets. But check carefully into the restrictions and terms; read the fine print, especially in regard to cancellation penalties. One recommended company is Trailfinders (tel. 0845/058-5858 in London; www.trailfinder.com).

In London, there are many bucket shops around Victoria Station and Earls Court that offer cheap fares. Make sure the company you deal with is a member of the IATA, ABTA, or ATOL.

CEEFAX, the British television information service, runs details of package holidays and flights to Europe and beyond.

From Australia -- From Australia, there are a number of options to fly to Spain. The most popular is Qantas/British Airways (tel. 612/13-13-13), which flies daily via Asia and London. Other popular and cheaper options are Qantas/Lufthansa via Asia and Frankfurt, Qantas/Air France via Asia and Paris, and Alitalia via Bangkok and Rome. The most direct option is on Singapore Airlines, with just one stop in Singapore. Alternatively, there are flights on Thai Airways via Bangkok and Rome.

Flying to Andalusia -- The major air gateways into Andalusia are Seville (the best gateway to the inland cities of Andalusia), Málaga (the principal gateway to beach resorts along the Costa del Sol), Granada, and Jerez de la Frontera.

Seville is connected by direct flights to the Continent from Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt, London, and Paris. But most visitors wing in from either Madrid (45 min.) or Barcelona (55 min.). There are at least six flights a day flying to Seville from either Barcelona or Madrid.

If Granada is your gateway to Andalusia, there are three flights per day from Barcelona (1 hr.) and four per day from Madrid (30 min.).

Most passengers fly to Seville and then journey to Jerez de la Frontera on a day trip either by car or train. However, Iberia has several flights a day to Madrid and Barcelona, the frequency depending on the time of the year.

For Costa del Sol visitors, Málaga is an international hub for flights, receiving planes from such destinations as London. Or else you can fly on one of eight flights daily from Madrid (1 hr.) or on one of three flights from Barcelona (1 1/2 hr.). There are also regular flights from many other Spanish cities such as Valencia.

By Train

If you're already in Europe, you might want to go to Spain by train, especially if you have a Eurailpass. Even without a pass, the cost of a train ticket is relatively moderate. Rail passengers who visit from Britain or France should make sleeper reservations as far in advance as possible, especially in summer.

Since Spain's rail tracks are of a wider gauge than those used for French trains (except for the TALGO and Trans-Europe-Express trains), you'll probably have to change trains at the border unless you're on an express train . For long journeys on Spanish rails, seat and sleeper reservations are mandatory.

The most comfortable and the fastest trains in Spain are the TER, TALGO, and Electrotren. However, you pay a supplement to ride on these fast trains. Both first- and second-class fares are sold on Spanish trains. Tickets can be purchased in the United States or Canada at the nearest office of Rail Europe or from any reputable travel agent. Confirmation of your reservation takes about a week.

If you want your car carried aboard the train, you must travel Auto-Expreso in Spain. This type of auto transport can be booked only through travel agents or rail offices once you arrive in Europe.

To go from London to Spain by rail, you'll need to change not only the train but also the rail terminus in Paris. In Paris it's worth the extra bucks to purchase a TALGO express or a "Puerta del Sol" express -- to avoid changing trains once again at the Spanish border. Trip time from London to Paris is about 6 hours; from Paris to Madrid, about 15 hours or so, which includes 2 hours spent in Paris just changing trains and stations. Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Europe, including Spain.

Once you arrive in such rail hubs as Madrid or Barcelona, you will find easy rail connections to the major cities of Andalusia, such as Seville or Málaga.

Special-Interest Vacations

Andalusia is one of the best destinations in Europe for enjoying the outdoors. Lounging on the beach tops the list of activities for most travelers, but there's a lot more to do. The province's mountains lure thousands of mountaineers and hikers, and fishing and hunting are long-standing Iberian obsessions. Watersports ranging from sailing to windsurfing are prime summer attractions.

Art Tours

Custom tours of Spain that focus on art and architecture can be arranged, especially by Heritage Tours (tel. 212/206-8400 in New York or 800/378-4555 outside New York; www.htprivatetravel.com). Founded by an architect, Joel Zack, these tours can be designed to order, and often include guided trips through such art cities as Granada. Without airfares, trips begin at around $4,000 (£2,000) for a 10-day jaunt.

Featuring groups ranging in size from 15 to 25 participants, ACE Study Tours (tel. 01223/835055; www.study-tours.org) in Cambridge, England, offers tours led by an art historian to such highlights of Andalusia as Córdoba, Seville, and Granada. Eight-day trips start at $2,500 (£1,250) and include double occupancy in a hotel, round-trip airfare from London, plus breakfast and dinner daily.

Biking

The leading U.S.-based outfitter is Easy Rider Tours, P.O. Box 228, Newburyport, MA 01950 (tel. 800/488-8332 or 978/463-6955; www.easyridertours.com). Their tours average between 48 and 81km (30-50 miles) a day.

In England, the Cyclists' Touring Club, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX (tel. 0870/873-0060; www.ctc.org.uk), charges $70 (£35) a year for membership; part of the fee covers information and suggested cycling routes through Spain and dozens of other countries.

Birding

The Iberian Peninsula lies directly across migration routes of species that travel with the seasons between Africa and Europe. Some of the most comprehensive studies on these migratory patterns are conducted by Spain's Centro de Migración de Aves, SEO/BirdLife, Calle Melquiades Biencinto 34, 28053 Madrid (tel. 91-434-09-10; www.seo.org). Based at a rustic outpost near Gibraltar, their summer work camps and field projects appeal to participants who want to identify, catalog, and "ring" (mark with an identifying leg band) some of the millions of birds that nest on Spanish soil every year. Participants are expected to pay for their "tuition," room, and board, but can often use the experience toward university credit.

Botanical Tours

Travel specialist Cox & Kings Travel, Gordon House, 10 GreenCoat Place, London SW1P 1PH, UK (tel. 020/7873-5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk), leads weeklong treks that take in Granada, Seville, and Ronda, exploring their Moorish and Renaissance gardens and some of southern Spain's architectural highlights. The tour is called "the Gardens of Andalusia."

Golf

In recent decades, thousands of British retirees have settled in Spain, and their presence has sparked the development of dozens of new golf courses. More than a third of the country's approximately 160 courses lie within its southern tier, within a short drive of the Costa del Sol. In fact, Spain's two most talked-about golf courses are both in southern Spain. Valderrama, 11310 Sotogrande, Cádiz (tel. 95-679-12-00; www.valderrama.com), is on the western tip of the Costa del Sol, a Robert Trent Jones, Sr.-designed course carved out of an oak plantation in the 1980s. Hyatt's new La Manga Club, 30385 Los Belones, Cartagena (tel. 968-17-5000; www.lamangaclub.com), is on the Costa Blanca near Murcia and is the site of three golf courses, one of which was recently remodeled by Arnold Palmer.

Packages that include guaranteed playing time on some of the country's finest courses, as well as airfare and accommodations, can be arranged through such firms as Golf International (tel. 800/833-1389 or 212/986-9176 in the U.S.; www.golfinternational.com), PGA Travel (tel. 888/439-1831 in the U.S.; www.pgatravel.com), and Comtours (tel. 800/248-1331 in the U.S.; www.comtours.com).

Hiking & Walking

To venture into the more rugged countryside of Catalonia, Andalusia's valley of the Guadalquivir, or the arid and beautiful Extremaduran plains, contact Ramblers Holidays, Lemsford Mill, Welwyn Garden AL8 7TR, U.K. (tel. 01707/331-133; www.ramblersholidays.co.uk).

Horseback Riding

A well-known equestrian center that conducts tours of the Alpujarras highlands is Cabalgar, Rutas Alternativas, Bubión, Granada (tel. 95-876-31-35). The farm is best known for its weekend treks through the scrub-covered hills of southern and central Spain, although longer tours are available.

Sailing

Alventus, an agency based in Seville, offers weeklong cruises along the coast of Andalusia and the Algarve in Portugal. Its three-masted, 13m (43-ft.) sailing yacht departs from the Andalusian port of Huelva. For reservations and information, contact Alventus at Calle Huelva 6, 41004 Sevilla (tel. 95-421-00-62; www.alventus.com).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

In 1978, Spain legalized homosexuality among consenting adults. In April 1995, the parliament of Spain banned discrimination based on sexual orientation. In Andalusia the most popular resort for gay and lesbian travelers is Torremolinos, although there are gay bars in all the larger cities such as Seville and Granada. Only problem is, many of them come and go with great frequency.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are gay Australia tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises. And Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/834-6500; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (www.odyusa.com); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Escorted & Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages. Among the airline packagers, Iberia Airlines (tel. 800/772-4642, or 90-240-05-00 in Spain; www.iberia.com) leads the way.

Solar Tours (tel. 800/388-7652; www.solartours.com) is a wholesaler that offers a number of package tours to Seville, as well as to major beach resorts. Self-drive packages through Andalusia and other areas are also featured. Spanish Heritage Tours (tel. 800/456-5050; www.shtours.com) is known for searching for low-cost airfare deals to Spain. Homeric Tours (tel. 800/223-5570 or 212/753-1100; www.homerictours.com), the marketing arm of Iberia, is the most reliable tour operator and the agency used for air and land packages to some of Spain's highlights. Several fly/drive packages are also offered.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Ask Before You Go -- Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

* Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is a deposit required?

* Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also find out what types of rooms are offered.

* For escorted tours only, request a complete schedule; ask about the size and demographics of the group; and discuss what is included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and such).

* Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

There are many escorted tour companies to choose from, each offering transportation to and within Spain, prearranged hotel space, and such extras as bilingual tour guides and lectures. Many of these tours to Spain include excursions to Morocco or Portugal.

Some of the most expensive and luxurious tours are run by Abercrombie & Kent International (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com), including deluxe 9- to 12-day tours of the Iberian Peninsula by train. Guests stay in fine hotels, ranging from a late medieval palace to the exquisite Alfonso XIII in Seville.

American Express Vacations tel. 800/297-2977; www.americanexpress.com) is one of the biggest tour operators in the world. Its offerings are comprehensive, and unescorted customized package tours are available, too.

Trafalgar Tours (tel. 800/854-0103; www.trafalgartours.com) is cheaper, offering a number of tours of Spain. One of the most popular offerings is a 16-day trip called "the Best of Spain." This land-only package is $2,499.

Alternative Travel Group Ltd. (tel. 01865/315-678; www.atg-oxford.co.uk) is a British firm that organizes walking and cycling vacations, plus wine tours in Spain, Italy, and France. Tours explore the scenic countryside and medieval towns of each country.

Petrabax Tours (tel. 800/634-1188; www.petrabax.com) attracts those who prefer to see Spain by bus, although fly/drive packages are also offered, featuring stays in paradores (inns). A number of city packages are available as well, plus an 8-day trip that tries to capture the essence of Spain, with stops ranging from Madrid to Granada.

Isramworld (tel. 800/223-7460; www.isram.com) sells both escorted and package tours to Spain. It can book you on bus tours as well as land and air packages. Its grandest offering is "Spanish Splendor," with a private driver and guides. Naturally, only Spain's best hotels are used by this upmarket outfitter.

Getting Around

By Car

A car offers the greatest flexibility, even if you're just doing day trips from Madrid. Don't plan to drive in Seville or Granada for city sightseeing; it's too congested. Rush hour is Monday through Saturday from 8 to 10am, 1 to 2pm, and 4 to 6pm. In reality, it's always busy.

Car Rentals -- Although several Spanish car-rental companies exist, we've gotten lots of letters from readers telling us they've had a hard time resolving billing irregularities and insurance claims, so you might want to stick with the U.S.-based rental firms.

Note that tax on car rentals is a whopping 15%, so don't forget to factor that into your travel budget. Usually, prepaid rates do not include taxes, which will be collected at the rental kiosk itself.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; www.avis.com) maintains about 100 branches throughout Spain, including a half-dozen in Seville. If you reserve and pay for your rental by telephone at least 2 weeks before your departure from North America, you'll qualify for the company's best rate, with unlimited kilometers included. You can usually get competitive rates from Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com) and Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com); it always pays to comparison shop. Budget doesn't have a drop-off charge if you pick up a car in one Spanish city and return it to another. All three companies require that drivers be at least 21 years of age and, in some cases, not older than 72. To be able to rent a car, you must have a passport and a valid driver's license; you must also have a valid credit card or a prepaid voucher. An international driver's license is not essential, but you might want to present it if you have one; it's available from any North American office of the American Automobile Association (AAA).

Kemwel (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) is an auto rental broker that accumulates into one database the availability of rental cars in markets across Europe, including Andalusia. Originally established in 1908, and now operating in close conjunction with its sister company, Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), it offers convenient and prepaid access to thousands of cars, from a variety of reputable car-rental outfits throughout Europe. Car rentals are reserved and prepaid prior to your departure for Andalusia, thereby avoiding the confusion about unfavorable currency conversions and government tax add-ons. Most car rentals can be picked up at either the airport or in the downtown offices of cities throughout Spain, and there's usually no penalty for one-way rentals.

Many packages include airfare, accommodations, and a rental car with unlimited mileage. Compare these prices with the cost of booking airline tickets and renting a car separately to see if these offers are good deals.

Driving Rules -- Spaniards drive on the right side of the road. Drivers should pass on the left; local drivers sound their horns when passing another car and flash their lights at you if you're driving slowly (slowly for high-speed Spain) in the left lane. Autos coming from the right have the right of way.

Spain's express highways are known as autopistas, which charge a toll, and autovías, which don't. To exit in Spain, follow the salida (exit) sign, except in Catalonia, where the word to exit is sortida. On most express highways, the speed limit is 120kmph (75 mph). On other roads, speed limits range from 90kmph (56 mph) to 100kmph (62 mph). You will see many drivers far exceeding these limits.

The greatest number of accidents in Spain is recorded along the notorious Costa del Sol highway, the Carretera de Cádiz.

If you must drive through a Spanish city, try to avoid morning and evening rush hours. Never park your car facing oncoming traffic, as that is against the law. If you are fined by the highway patrol (Guardia Civil de Tráfico), you must pay on the spot. Penalties for drinking and driving are very stiff.

Breakdowns -- Have your car checked before setting out on a long trek through Andalusia. On a major motorway you'll find strategically placed emergency phone boxes. On secondary roads, call for help by asking the operator to locate the nearest Guardia Civil, which will put you in touch with a garage that can tow you to a repair shop.

As noted above, the Spanish affiliate of AAA can provide limited assistance in the event of a breakdown.

By Plane

Iberia is your best bet (tel. 800/772-4642). By European standards, domestic flights within Spain are relatively inexpensive, and flying between distant points sometimes makes sense.

If you plan to travel to a number of cities and regions, Iberia's "Visit Spain" ticket can be a good deal. Sold only in conjunction with a transatlantic ticket and valid for any airport within Spain and the Canary or Balearic islands, it requires that you choose up to four different cities in advance, in the order you'll visit them -- perhaps Seville, Cádiz, Granada, and Málaga. Restrictions forbid flying immediately back to the city of departure, instead encouraging far-flung visits to widely scattered regions of the peninsula. Only one change within the preset itinerary is permitted once the ticket is issued. The dates and departure times of the actual flights, however, can be determined or changed without penalty once you arrive in Spain. Consult the folks at Iberia if you're interested in a multi-stopover ticket and see what the best deal is at the time of your visit. Children 1 and under travel for 10% of the adult fare, and children 2 to 11 travel for 50% of the adult fare. The ticket is valid for up to 60 days after your initial transatlantic arrival in Spain.

By Train

Spain is crisscrossed with a comprehensive network of rail lines. Hundreds of trains depart every day for points around the country, including the fast TALGO and the newer, faster AVE trains, which reduced rail time between Madrid and Seville to only 2 1/2 hours. The latest copy of the "Thomas Cook European Timetable of Railroads" is available online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.

The most economical way to travel in Andalusia is on the Spanish State Railways (RENFE), the national railway of Spain. Most main long-distance connections are served with night express trains having first- and second-class seats as well as beds and bunks. There are also comfortable high-speed daytime trains of the TALGO, TER, and Electrotren types. There is a general fare for these trains; bunks, beds, and certain superior-quality trains cost extra. Nevertheless, the Spanish railway is one of the most economical in Europe.

Spanish Rail Passes -- RENFE, the national railway of Spain, offers several discounted rail passes. You must buy these passes in the United States prior to your departure. For more information, consult a travel agent or Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL [877/272-7245] in the U.S., or tel. 0870/837-1371 in the U.K.; www.raileurope.com). In Britain, tickets can be purchased through European Rail Travel (tel. 020/7387-0444; sales@europeanrail.com).

The Eurail Spain Pass is good for unlimited travel on Spain's national rail network. Passes are available from any 3 to 10 days within a 2-month period. Prices start at $279 (£140) for first class, plus $40 (£20) for each additional day. Second class starts at $215 (£108) with additional days costing $40 (£20). (Children 4-11 pay half fare on any of these discount passes.)

The Eurail Spain-Portugal Pass, good for both Spain and Portugal, offers 4 to 10 days unlimited first-class train travel in a 2-month period. Prices start at $319 (£160); add $40 (£20) for each additional day. Eurail Spain 'n Portugal Saverpass, again including both Spain and Portugal, offers any 3 to 10 days unlimited, first-class train travel in a 2-month period starting at $269 (£135), and $35 (£18) for each additional day.

The Eurail France-Spain Pass, good for both Spain and France, offers 4 to 10 days unlimited train travel in a 2-month period. First-class prices start at $379 (£190), plus $40 (£20) for each additional day, while second-class rates are $329 (£165), plus $35 (£18) per extra day.

Eurailpass -- The Eurailpass permits unlimited first-class rail travel in any country in western Europe except the British Isles (good in Ireland). Passes are available for purchase online (www.eurail.com) and at various offices/agents around the world. Travel agents and railway agents in such cities as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles sell Eurailpasses. You can purchase them at the North American offices of CIT Travel Service, the French National Railroads, the German Federal Railroads, and the Swiss Federal Railways. It is strongly recommended that you purchase passes before you leave home as not all passes are available in Europe; also, passes purchased in Europe will cost about 20% more.

The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 20 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period that is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are $745 for 15 days, $965 for 21 days, $1,199 for 1 month, $1,695 for 2 months, and $2,089 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 20 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $629 for 15 days, $819 for 21 days, $1,019 for 1 month, $1,439 for 2 months, and $1,785 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $485 for 15 days, $625 for 21 days, $779 for 1 month, $1,099 for 2 months, and $1,359 for 3 months.

The Eurail Select Pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any 3, 4, or 5 bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: For 5 days in 2 months you pay $469 for three countries. Eurail Select Pass Youth, for travelers under 26, allows second-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $305. Eurail Select Pass Saver offers discounts for two or more people traveling together, first-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $399.

Where to Buy Rail Passes -- Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL [877/272-7245]; www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SWIV 1JY (tel. 0870/5848-848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including InterRail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers 25 and under; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

By Bus

Bus service in southern Spain is extensive, low priced, and comfortable for short distances. You'll rarely encounter a bus terminal: the station might be a cafe, a bar, the street in front of a hotel, or simply an intersection.

A bus may be the cheapest mode of transportation, but it's not really the best option for distances of more than 161km (100 miles). On long hauls, buses are often uncomfortable. Another major drawback is the lack of toilet facilities, although rest stops are frequent. It's best for 1-day excursions outside a major tourist center such as Seville. In the rural areas of the country, bus networks are more extensive than the railway system; they go virtually everywhere, connecting every village. In general, a bus ride between two major cities in Spain, such as from Córdoba to Seville, is about two-thirds the price of a train ride and a few hours faster. For bus information, contact ALSA (tel. 91-327-05-40; www.alsa.es).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov. International visitors to the U.S. can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children are required to present a passport when entering the United States at airports. More information on obtaining a passport for a minor can be found at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those 17 and under and 66 and over must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Visas

Visas are not needed by U.S., Canadian, Irish, Australian, New Zealand, or British citizens for visits of less than 3 months.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Spain -- You can bring into Spain most personal effects and the following items duty-free: one laptop, one video camera or two still cameras with 10 rolls of film each; 400 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; and 2 liters of wine or 1 liter of liquor per person 18 and over. Allowable sports equipment is fishing gear, one bicycle, skis, tennis or squash racquets, and golf clubs.

What You Can Take Home from Spain -- U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 02920/501-261 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: A free pamphlet is available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Families

Recommended family-travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (tel. 703/905-9858; www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

When to Go

Spring and fall are ideal times to visit Andalusia. May and October are the best months in terms of both weather and crowds. In our view, however, the balmy month of May (with an average temperature of 61°F/16°C) is the choicest time.

In summer it's hot, hot, and hotter in Andalusia, but especially in Seville and Córdoba. Seville has the dubious reputation of being the hottest part of Spain in July and August; the average temperature is 93°F (34°C).

August remains Europe's major vacation month. Traffic into the Costa del Sol from France, the Netherlands, Britain, and Germany becomes a veritable migration, and low-cost hotels along the coastal areas are virtually impossible to find. To compound the problem, many restaurants and shops in such inland cities as Seville close for the season.

Tips for Women Travelers

Though solo women travelers were harassed by macho males in the Franco era, Spanish men are much more hip today and much more politically correct.

As always, it's good to avoid deserted streets at night. Hitchhiking is never safe, of course. Dress conservatively, especially in remote towns. If women in bikinis, say, parade down the streets of Torremolinos, as many of them do, it's inevitable that they will be whistled at. If followed, seek out the nearest police officer.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel offers common-sense tips on safe travel.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call Spain:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia

2. Dial the country code 34.

3. Dial the city code and then the number.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Spain, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 1003 in Spain.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making an international call, dial tel. 025.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 900 in Spain are toll-free, but calling an 800 number in the States from Spain is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

In Spain, many smaller establishments, especially bars, discos, and a few informal restaurants, don't have phones. Furthermore, many summer-only bars and discos secure a phone for the season only, then get a new number the next season. Many attractions, such as small churches or even minor museums, have no staff to receive inquiries from the public.

All telephone numbers in Spain use a nine-digit system. Each number is preceded by its provincial code for local, national, and international calls. For example, when calling Madrid from Madrid or from another province within Spain, telephone customers must dial tel. 91-482-85-80. Similarly, when calling Málaga from within or outside the province, dial tel. 91-482-87-00.

More information is available from Telefónica (www.telefonica.es).

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout dozens of countries worldwide.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. (Even worldphone owners will have to rent new phones if they're traveling to non-GSM regions.) While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.com/hotspot or www.t-mobile.co.uk) serves up wireless connections at coffee shops nationwide. Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (www.wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks, go to www.jiwire.com.

In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You'll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com and click on "Individuals Buy Now." One solid provider is i2roam (tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them.

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes are found only in big cities, such as Seville and Granada.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.