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Andong doesn't have any high-end hotels or many midrange accommodations, but there are several inexpensive yeogwan around the train and bus stations. There are also several guesthouses in the traditional village (called hanok), where you can experience how the nobles and commoners lived in centuries past.

The Jirye Art Village, overlooking Imha Lake, is probably one of the best places to experience the way Korean nobles used to live. Rooms range from W50,000 to W120,000 with shared bathroom facilities. Ask for a lakeview room, if so desired. Meals are W6,000 and you should reserve them in advance when making your sleeping reservations (San 769 Bakgong-ni, Imdong-myeon, Andong; tel. 054/822-2590; www.jirye.com). You can look around Andong during the day and the village chief will pick you up at 5pm in front of the bus or train station.

Also in the Imha Lake area is Suaedang, 470-44 Sugok-dong, Imdong-myeon (tel. 054/822-6661), with buildings from the Joseon Dynasty, which were also relocated because of the Imha Dam. It's a peaceful retreat. Rooms sleep two and range from W40,000 to W70,000, depending on size and location. Suaedang has traditional Korean rooms with shared bathroom and shower facilities.

Less remote but still with traditional flair is the Imcheonggak, 20 Beopheungdong (tel. 054/853-3455 Korean only, or call the Korea Travel Phone at tel. 1330 and they'll make a reservation for you), the birth home of Lee Sang-ryong. During the Joseon Dynasty, a law prevented civilians from building houses with more than 100 rooms. So Mr. Lee's hanok complex had 100 rooms (only 50 of which remain today). Although the railroad ruined the view it once had, the complex maintains its traditional atmosphere.

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There are also plenty of minbak available in the Hahoe Village, but very few of the owners speak English. If you want to do a homestay in the traditional village, call the Korea Travel Phone (tel. 1330) and have them make a reservation for you or see if rooms are available on a walk-in basis (on weekdays, outside of summer and holidays, there should be no problem).

For more Western-style accommodations, try the Park Tourist Hotel (tel. 054/859-1500; fax 054/857-5445). It has bland but comfortable rooms from W60,000 to W87,000. Of course, there are plenty of love motels in town as well, with doubles going for about half the price of the Park Hotel.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.