Planning a trip to Anguilla

Just 20 minutes by ferry from Marigot, flat, arid, scrubby Anguilla has become one of the Caribbean's choicest destinations, despite its unprepossessing landscape and comparative lack of colonial grandeur. The reasons are obvious: The island resembles one big sugary-sand beach surrounded by luminous turquoise seas. The locals are congenial and laid-back, all beneficiaries of the excellent British education system. You'll find almost no hawking, pushiness, or overt poverty -- and correspondingly low crime rates. The leading resorts and villa complexes define luxury, and the food is among the finest in the Caribbean. And yet the vibe is pleasingly laid-back in even the toniest resorts; it's barefoot luxury at its least pretentious.

Once upon a time Anguilla was one of the Caribbean's best-kept secrets. Then, in the 1980s, this small, serene, secluded island embarked on a careful plan of marketing itself as a top-end destination with a handful of resorts. Quite deliberately, Anguilla (rhymes with "vanilla") turned its back on the package tours, the casinos and cruise ships, the glitzy shopping and nightlife of neighboring Dutch St. Maarten.

Just like Anguilla itself, the island's first resorts were (and remain) boutique gems, serene and secluded. The island has also emerged as the Caribbean's top dining spot, with Anguillan chefs running away with top prizes in annual regional competitions. You will dine superbly here, and you will pay dearly to do so.

Prepare yourself for two guaranteed pleasures: the breathtaking beauty of the island's 30-odd beaches and the genial hospitality of Anguilla's 12,000 inhabitants. Even though Anguilla is one of the Caribbean's most upscale destinations, the island has remained laidback and unaffected. It's an egalitarian society, where politicians and taxi drivers rub shoulders at their favorite beach bars. If you're looking to rest, unwind, and be pampered without pomp or snobbery, then this is the place for you.

Anguilla has no large commercial harbor or bustling international airport, a la St. Maarten. The beaches here are all public, and although some resorts make non-guests park some distance away from their manicured beaches, many of the best beaches are ones you'll discover yourself -- long, liquid strands of tawny sand and bottle-green surf. In addition to the island's justly famous first-class resorts, Anguilla also has a number of affordable small inns and guesthouses. Stay at one of Anguilla's more modest places and you'll still have those famous beaches to enjoy. The budget-minded will also find plenty of dining choices that won't cost an arm and a leg. Simply head to one of Anguilla's many local beach bars and barbecue shacks, where the ambience is barefoot casual.

The northernmost of the British Leeward Islands in the eastern Caribbean, 8km (5 miles) north of St. Maarten, Anguilla is only 26km (16 miles) long, with 91 sq. km (35 sq. miles) in land area. Once part of the federation with St. Kitts and Nevis, Anguilla gained its independence in 1980 and has since been a self-governing British possession.

For years, many Anguillan men were forced to leave the island to find work in shipping, fishing, and trade. Today, the tourist and hospitality industries employ a number of islanders. In fact, in the last few years, Anguilla has seen more building activity than in the last several decades, but at press time the global recession had put the brakes on most large-scale development. On (perhaps permanent) hold is the ambitious Temenos resort/villa complex, which ran out of funds after building the island's first 18-hole golf course, now managed by Cap Juluca. The homey old Rendezvous Bay Hotel had high hopes of reinventing itself as a an upscale hotel and condo complex, but the entire project stalled -- will a smaller-scaled boutique hotel land on Rendezvous Bay in the future? It took the Viceroy Anguilla 3 years to open, but it did, and it's quite a monumental undertaking. A new government has been installed, and among its major mandates is sustainability of the island's precious resources. The one thing that hasn't changed? The truth of Anguilla's slogan: "Tranquillity Wrapped in Blue."

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Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainability and "going green" are hot topics of discussion on Anguilla these days. With development at a virtual standstill from the global recession, the island's movers and shakers are using what is being seen as a gift of time to take the long view on developing ways to ensure that Anguilla's natural resources are protected and preserved. A Sustainable Energy Committee is looking at ways (windpower, solar power) to make the country more sustainable and less dependent on traditional energy sources. In other developments, a forward-thinking government agricultural initiative to farm vegetables on a large swath of land is putting fresh sweet potatoes, peppers, corn, squash, tomatoes, lettuces, and pigeon peas into the marketplace. Old farmers are rediscovering the pleasure of growing food, and new farmers (and future chefs) are being initiated in this agricultural renaissance. Local chefs are also getting in on the act, designing menus around local seafood instead of expensive imported fish. Ecotourism is on the rise, with increasingly popular eco-tours offered by the Anguilla National Trust. The Trust also makes monthly species counts on the local ponds and wetlands.

General Resources for Responsible Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.

Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The country and area code for Anguilla is 264.

Banks -- Banks with ATMs are open Monday to Thursday 8am to 3pm, Friday 8am to 5pm. Several banks, including Scotiabank, the Valley, Fairplay Commercial Complex (tel. 264/497-3333), and First Caribbean, the Valley (tel. 264/497-2301), have ATMs that are usually accessible after hours.

Business Hours -- Banks are open from 8am until 2pm Monday through Thursday and Friday until 4pm. Businesses keep widely varying schedules (some boutiques and art galleries close for lunch), although grocery stores are generally open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 9pm and Sunday to noon.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 18. Wine, beer, and liquor are sold in grocery stores and restaurants 7 days a week during regular hours.

Embassies & Consulates -- There is no U.S. diplomatic representation on Anguilla. U.S. citizens are advised to register with the consulates at Bluff House, English Harbour on Antigua (tel. 268/463-6531; ryderj@candw.ag), or Georgetown, Barbados (visit http://bridgetown.usembassy.gov or https://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/home.asp). Likewise Canadian citizens should register with the Canadian High Commission on Barbados. Australian citizens can register with the Australian High Commission in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad and Tobago (tel. 868/628-4732).

Emergencies -- You can reach the police at their headquarters in the Valley (tel. 264/497-2333) or the substation at Sandy Ground (tel. 264/497-2354). In an emergency, dial tel. 911.

Holidays -- New Year's Day (Jan 1), Good Friday, Easter Monday, Monday after Pentecost (Whit Monday), May 30-31 (Anguilla Day), June 18 (Queen's Birthday), first Monday in August (August Monday), first Thursday in August (August Thursday), August 6 (Constitution Day), December 17 (Separation Day), Christmas Day (Dec 25), December 28 (Boxing Day).

Hospitals -- For medical services, consult the Princess Alexandra Hospital, Stoney Ground, the Valley (tel. 264/497-2551). Many of the larger hotels have a physician on call.

Internet Access -- Most hotels, large and small, offer free Wi-Fi.

Language -- English is the main language on Anguilla.

Mail -- The main post office is on Wallblake Road, The Valley (tel. 264/497-2528; www.aps.ai). Collectors consider Anguilla's stamps valuable, and the post office also operates a philatelic bureau, open Monday to Friday 8am to 4:45pm. Airmail postcards and letters cost EC$1.50 (55¢) to the U.S., Canada, and the United Kingdom. Note: In January 2009, Anguilla got its first postal code: AI-2640. So if you're sending a letter to Anguilla from another country, you'll place the new postal code after "Anguilla" and before "British West Indies" (or "BWI").

Passports -- All visitors must have an onward or return ticket. U.S., British, and Canadian citizens must have a valid passport.

Pharmacies -- The Princess Alexandra Hospital Pharmacy, Stoney Ground (tel. 264/497-2551) is open weekdays 8am to 5pm and Saturday 10am to noon. The Paramount Pharmacy has branches at Water Swamp (tel. 264/497-2366) and South Hill (tel. 264/498-2366).

Smoking -- There are no regulations against smoking in Anguilla.

Taxes -- The government collects a 10% tax on rooms, and hotels tack on a 10% service charge. Effective January 2008, all visitors traveling through the seaports are required to pay an embarkation tax of $20 per adult, and $10 for children 12 to 18 (children under 12 free).

Time -- Anguilla is on Atlantic Standard Time year-round, which means it's usually 1 hour ahead of the U.S. East Coast -- except when the U.S. is on daylight saving time, when clocks are the same.

Tipping -- Many restaurants include some sort of service charge in the menu pricing. The menu should state whether service is included, but always confirm whether gratuities are added. In many instances, tips are pooled among the staff (including the back of the house), so it's always a good idea to leave something extra if you feel your server warrants it. Give a 10% to 20% tip to boat captains. Bellhops should get $1 to $2 per bag. Be sure to tip beach attendants and leave something for housekeeping (approximately $1 for every night you spend). Tip taxi drivers an extra 10%.

Toilets -- As on St. Martin/St. Maarten, there are few public facilities, although the ferry terminal at Blowing Point has bathrooms. Hotel lobbies and restaurants are your best options.

Water -- Water is a precious commodity on Anguilla, and even though the water is potable, it is in short supply. Bottled water is easily available.

Weather -- The hottest months in Anguilla are July to October; the coolest, December to February. The mean monthly temperature is about 80°F (27°C). Rain is most heavy in the winter, but few days are without sunshine.

Getting Around

By Rental Car

To explore the island in any depth, I highly recommend you rent a car, though be prepared for some badly paved roads. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are a real bonus for exploring the island's unpaved and pitted back roads, but not necessary elsewhere. Car rental agencies on the island can issue the mandatory Anguillan driver's license, which is valid for 3 months. You can also get a license at police headquarters in the island's administrative center, the Valley, and at ports of entry. You'll need to present a valid driver's license from your home country and pay a one-time fee of $20.

Remember: Drive on the left side of the road!

Most visitors take a taxi from the airport to their hotel and arrange, at no extra charge, for a rental agency to deliver a car there the following day. All rental companies offer small discounts for rentals of 7 days or more. Car hire is not cheap on Anguilla, and begins at about $40 a day, plus insurance and taxes, which can be steep.

Avis, which is represented by Apex in the Valley (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S. and Canada, or 264/497-2642; www.avis.com; avisaxa@anguillanet.com), offers regular cars and some four-wheel-drive vehicles as does Hertz's representative, Triple K Car Rental, Airport Road (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S. and Canada, or 264/497-2934; www.hertz.com; hertzatriplek@anguillanet.com). Local firms include Connor's Car Rental, c/o Maurice Connor, South Hill (tel. 264/497-6433), Island Car Rentals, Airport Road (tel. 264/497-2723; islandcar@anguillanet.com), and Carib Rent A Car (tel. 264/498-6020; caribcarrental@anguillanet.com).

Note: It's worth pricing a car rental with one of the larger agencies and then checking with your hotel to see what price they can get for you. Many hotels and inns on Anguilla rent all their customers' cars from one or more small local agencies. Your car may not be as new and shiny as some of the other rentals available, but your savings may be considerable.

By Taxi

Taxi fares are posted at Walblake Airport, at the Blowing Point ferry, and in most taxis. Taxis can be pricey, for numerous reasons -- so don't take it out on your driver if you think your fare is, well, unfair.. And if you find a taxi driver you like, ask for his card and cellphone number for future rides. You can also get a cab through the Airport Taxi Stand at tel. 264/497-5054 or Blowing Point Ferry Taxi Stand at tel. 264/497-6089. A $4 surcharge goes into effect between 6pm and 6am.

I highly recommend Accelyn Connor (tel. 264/497-0515 or 264/235-8931; premiertaxiandtour@hotmail.com). I also highly recommend the taxi service of Malcolm Hodge (tel. 264/235-7384 or 264/235-7381), a gentleman and a stickler for good service (I once saw him ream out the GM of a big resort for dawdling and possibly keeping a guest from making her ferry on time).

Taxi drivers also make great tour guides.

Taxi Zones: Decoding Anguilla Taxi Fares -- If you feel taxi fares are expensive on Anguilla (and if you do, you aren't alone), consider this: Not only does each driver has to pay costly insurance to insure you, the passenger, but gas is astronomically expensive, at press time nearly $5 a gallon, and most drivers have vans -- which can cost $75 to fill up. Plus, Anguilla taxis don't have meters, so if a customer is dragging his feet, drivers are not compensated for the wait. But the main reason a taxi ride costs what it does is that the government has parceled the island into 10 strictly delineated taxi zones, with a set fee schedule based on travel within and out of each zone. So, for example, Zone 1 covers the West End, where many of the top resorts and restaurants are located. Within that zone, a taxi ride will cost $10 (plus an additional $4 after 6pm). But from Zone 1 to Zone 2 -- another busy resort area 5 minutes away -- the fare jumps to $14 (plus $4 after 6pm).

Tipping is at the discretion of the customer. You can check out the latest rate schedules by going to the Anguilla Hotel & Tourism Association website (www.ahta.ai/Taxi_Service.html).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

U.S. and Canadian citizens must have a passport or a combination of a birth certificate and photo ID, plus a return or ongoing ticket, to enter St. Maarten/St. Martin. Citizens of the United Kingdom, Commonwealth countries of the Caribbean, the Republic of Ireland, and E.U. countries must also have a current passport.

All travelers coming from the Caribbean, including Americans, are now required to have a passport to enter or re-enter the United States. Those returning to Canada are also required to show passports. Cruise ship passengers must also meet the requirement. You'll certainly need identification at some point, and a passport is the best form of ID for speeding through Customs and Immigration. Driver's licenses are not acceptable as a sole form of ID.

Customs

Generally, you're permitted to bring in items intended for your personal use, including tobacco, cameras, film, and a limited supply of liquor -- usually 40 ounces.

Just before you leave home, check with the St. Maarten/St. Martin (as well as St. Barts and Anguilla) Customs or Foreign Affairs department for the latest guidelines -- including information on items that are not allowed to be brought into your home country -- because the rules are subject to change and often contain some surprising oddities.

Visitors to St. Maarten/St. Martin (as well as St. Barts and Anguilla) may not carry any form of firearm, spear guns, pole spears, illegal drugs, live plants or cuttings, and raw fruits and vegetables. Visitors over 18 may bring in -- duty-free -- items intended for personal use (generally up to 4 liters of alcohol, a carton of cigarettes or 25 cigars), as well as laptops, cellphones, and cameras.

You should collect receipts for all purchases made abroad. You must also declare on your Customs form the nature and value of all gifts received during your stay abroad.

If you use any medication that contains controlled substances or requires injection, carry an original prescription or note from your doctor.

For specifics on what U.S. citizens can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," then go to "Travel Smart" and click on "Know Before You Go.") Or contact the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

U.K. citizens should contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (tel. 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.), or consult its website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Citizens of Australia should request a helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices called Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

For New Zealand Customs information, contact New Zealand Customs at tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786, or log on to www.customs.govt.nz.

When to Go

Hotels charge their highest rates during the peak winter season, from mid-December to mid-April. Christmas week rates may double those tariffs. You should make reservations months in advance for Christmas and February, especially over Presidents' Day weekend. School spring breaks are also busy family times.

The off-season runs roughly mid-April to mid-December (though exact dates vary according to the property). Even though August can be a popular month for vacationing Europeans, it's one big summer sale: Most hotels, inns, condos, and villas slash their prices 20% to 50%. The beaches are less crowded and many top lodgings and restaurants shutter for one, even 2 months as the owners take their own vacation or perform necessary renovations. Be sure to request a room away from noise if the hotel remains open during construction. I provide closing dates wherever possible, but visitors should double-check before booking.

Weather

High season features a temperate climate, rarely exceeding 90°F (32°C), with lower humidity and the famed cooling trade winds blowing in from the northeast. It's ideal beach weather, with the occasional cloudy day. Usually rain showers are brief: Islanders call them "liquid sunshine."

Rainy season runs from late May to mid-November. This doesn't mean it rains for days at a time or even every day. But this also roughly corresponds to the official Atlantic hurricane season, June 1 to November 30. Fortunately, satellite surveillance provides enough advance warning to take precautions and, rarely, evacuate.

Hurricanes -- The northeastern Caribbean has seen its share of destructive hurricanes; the latest to have an impact in this region was Hurricane Omar, which in 2008 eroded beaches and blew down beach shacks in the Maho Bay area in St. Maarten and also caused beach erosion on Anguilla's West End. Fortunately, modern technology and satellite surveillance provide plenty of advance warning for impending storms. Hurricane season officially begins in June and ends in late November, but high hurricane season in this neck of the woods is the month of September. A number of resorts use this time (early fall) to close for renovations, especially on St. Barts. If you are caught in a hurricane or tropical storm during your stay, follow the instructions of officials (especially in the event of an evacuation to higher ground). Keep in mind that low-lying areas may be prone to flooding, and the seas may have dangerous rip currents even after a hurricane has passed. For the latest satellite imagery and hurricane information, go to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's National Hurricane Center (www.nhc.noaa.gov).

Festivals & Sailboat Races

Anguilla's most colorful annual festival is Carnival, held jointly under the auspices of the Ministries of Culture and Tourism. The festival begins on the Thursday before the first Monday in August and lasts 10 days. The festival also features spectacular parades with floats, elaborately costumed dancers, terrific bands, and lots of competitions, including the very popular Miss Anguilla contest. Carnival harks back to Emancipation Day, or "August Monday," in 1834, when enslaved Africans all throughout the British colonies were freed. Boat races are Anguilla's national sport, and the distinctive swift, high-masted, brightly painted open boats -- many of them crafted here on the island -- stage a number of exciting races during Carnival. In early May, the Anguilla Regatta (www.anguillaregatta.com) features competitive races over a 3-day weekend, with free entertainment and barbecues every night. Anguilla's other major festivals are the 4-day late-March Moonsplash Music Festival (www.bankiebanx.net/moonsplash), founded by Anguilla's best-known musician, Bankie Banx, and Tranquility Jazz Festival (www.anguillajazz.org), held in the second week of November. On an early April weekend, Island Harbor celebrates fishing and the sea in the Festival del Mar.

Getting There

By Plane

During high season, Anguilla's Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport is abuzz with private Gulfstreams and Fortune 500 executive jets purring on the runway. There are no nonstop flights from mainland North America into Anguilla, so visitors either transfer through San Juan, Puerto Rico, or the Princess Juliana International Airport, St. Martin's main airport, on nearby Dutch St. Maarten, or fly in by private charter.

Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport, located just outside The Valley, can only accommodate small- to medium-size aircraft. Currently, the two commercial airlines with connecting flights into Clayton J. Lloyd International are American Eagle (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com), the commuter partner of American Airlines, with one nonstop daily flight to Anguilla's Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport from American's San Juan hub; and LIAT (tel. 888/844-5428 or 264/497-5002; www.liatairline.com), which in 2007 merged with the now-defunct Caribbean Star and now offers daily flights from Antigua, St. Kitts, Nevis, and St. Thomas. Note: At press time Winair (Windward Islands Airways International; tel. 888/255-6889 in the U.S. and Canada; www.fly-winair.com) had suspended daily flights to Anguilla from Dutch St. Maarten.

A fast and convenient option is to hop on one of the handful of private regional airlines that offer chartered plane service from St. Maarten/St. Martin or other nearby islands directly to Anguilla. At press time, Anguilla Air Services (tel. 264/498-5922; www.anguillaairservices.com) was offering one-way flights at rates of $80, a very reasonably priced alternative to a private boat charter (which can cost $50-$85). Offering comparable fares is the other Anguillan airline, Trans Anguilla Airways (tel. 264/497-8690; www.transanguilla.com). Rainbow International Airlines (www.rainbowinternationalairlines.com) flies out of San Juan.

By Ferry

The majority of people coming in to Anguilla arrive via the Blowing Point ferry port. Public ferries run between Marigot Bay, St. Martin, and Anguilla (tel. 264/497-6070), every 30 minutes. The trip takes 20 to 25 minutes, making day trips a snap. Usually, the first ferry leaves St. Martin at 8am and the last at 7pm; from Blowing Point, the first ferry leaves at 7:30am and the last at 6:15pm. The one-way fare is $15 ($10 children 2-18) plus a $3 departure tax. A departure tax of $20 (children $10) is charged on your return trip to St. Martin; day-trippers and visiting yachts pay a $5 departure tax. No reservations are necessary. Ferries vary in size, and none takes passenger vehicles. Tip: Keep in mind that if you have a late-arriving flight, you may quite literally miss the (ferry) boat. You can either spend the night in St. Maarten/St. Martin or arrange a charter plane connection into Anguilla.

A convenient option is to take one of the privately run charter boats and ferries that shuttle passengers between Anguilla and the airport in St. Maarten. Anguilla-based charter boats will pick you up at the Princess Juliana airport in St. Maarten and transport you and your luggage to Blowing Point or a hotel on the south side of Anguilla. These boats are more expensive than the public ferries, but let you avoid having to travel from the airport to the ferry port in Marigot by taxi (a 10- to 15-min. trip) -- a smart option for travelers with a lot of luggage or a lot of kids. Plus, the privately run boats are smaller and have fewer passengers and can even arrange full-boat charters for groups or families. Keep in mind that these boats do not run as frequently as the government-run ferry, but most do include ground transportation. Good news: In 2010, an agreement between the St. Maarten/Anguilla governments is designed to greatly facilitate the ease of private boat transfers (and passing through immigration) from the airport -- which means that ideally you will be able to get off the plane and jump on a boat straight to Anguilla in under 30 minutes.

Check out the GB Express (tel. 264/235-6205 in Anguilla; 599/581-3568 on St. Maarten; www.anguillaferryandcharter; $55 one way, $90 round-trip); the MV Shauna VI (tel. 264/476-0975 or 264/772-2031 in Anguilla; 599/580-6275 on St. Maarten; myshauna6@hotmail.com; round-trip fare $60 adults, $40 children 2-12); or Funtime Charters (tel. 866/334-0047 or 264/497-6511; www.funtime-charters.com; $55 per person one-way; half-price for children 11 and under). Reservations required.

Most Anguilla hotels will also arrange (for a fee) private boat charters between the airport in St. Maarten and the ferry dock at Blowing Point, Anguilla, with door-to-door ground transportation.

Tip: If you'd like to do some shopping and have lunch in Marigot before you take your ferry to Anguilla, simply store your bags at the ferry landing. The Port de Marigot has a small baggage storage area ($5, plus tip).

Tips for Families

Anguilla is very family-friendly, particularly during spring break, the shoulder seasons, and summer; the calm, clear waters are perfect for beginning swimmers. The Malliouhana resort, on Anguilla, has a wonderful children's playground (with a pirate ship) that's separate from the main section of the resort.

Even those hotels and resorts with specific adults-only aspects offer some sort of kid-friendly amenities and programs. Many of the beaches are particularly attractive for families with toddlers and young children, and older kids will have plenty of nonmotorized watersports activities (snorkeling, sailing, parasailing) to keep them happy.

Baby-Equipment Rentals

Many resorts on Anguilla are happy to provide cribs and other baby and toddler essentials. If you're renting a villa or condo, however, a convenient, hassle-free option to dragging everything with you (and paying extra-baggage costs) is to rent the kids' stuff you need. Travel Lite delivers premium-brand baby- and toddler-equipment rentals (cribs, strollers, car seats, highchairs, and playpens) to your villa door, as well as swings, safety gates, baby monitors, even DVDs. Travel Lite will also help you plan children's parties, holiday celebrations, and activities for the kids. Contact Travel Lite (tel. 264/476-9990 or 264/476-0999 or go to www.travelliteanguilla.com).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The Caribbean in general isn't the LGBT-friendliest destination, perhaps because of regrettably rampant "on the DL" hypocrisy in local communities. St. Barts is by far the most open of the islands covered in this guide. Anguilla, like many a British colony, is quite conservative in attitude, but individual deluxe resorts welcome gay and lesbian travelers. The French and Dutch are generally tolerant, but St. Maarten/St. Martin is a mixed bag.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members."

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Despite the dominance of the euro since January 2002 within the mother country, Holland, the legal tender on the Dutch side of St. Maarten is still the Netherlands Antilles florin (NAf); the official exchange rate is NAf 1.79 for each $1. U.S. dollars are really the coin of the realm here, and prices in hotels and most restaurants and shops are designated in dollars. On the French side (as well as on St. Barts), the official monetary unit is the euro, with most establishments widely quoting and accepting either dollars or NAf guilders as well. At press time, the U.S. dollar was trading at $1.20 to the euro. Anguilla's official currency is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar, though U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere; the exchange rate is set permanently at roughly 2.70EC to $1.

Prices throughout this guide are given in U.S. dollars. As the dollar was still weaker than the euro at press time, some establishments on St. Barts and French St. Martin advertise a 1-to-1 exchange rate if you use cash. Always confirm before you get the bill.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you leave home. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. And if you use a debit card, the fees may be higher still -- again, check with your bank before you leave home. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank before you leave home.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are widely accepted on all three islands. You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

If you carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards are widely accepted on all three islands. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Almost every credit card company has an emergency toll-free number that you can call if your wallet or purse is stolen. Credit card companies may be able to wire cash advances immediately, and in many places they can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Citicorp Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/336-8472. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282 for all money emergencies. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309.

What Things Cost in Anguilla $

Taxi from the ferry to Malliouhana 22.00

Double room, moderate 200.00-300.00

Double room, inexpensive 100.00-150.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 20.00-30.00

Bottle of Carib beer 1.50-2.00

Bottle of Coca-Cola 1.50

Cup of coffee 1.50-2.00

1 gallon of premium gas 5.00

Island Hopping

St. Maarten/St. Martin

Public ferries run between Marigot Bay, St. Martin, and Blowing Point, Anguilla (tel. 264/497-6070) every 30 minutes. The trip takes 20 to 25 minutes, making day trips a snap. Usually, the first ferry leaves St. Martin at 8am and the last at 7pm; from Blowing Point, the first ferry leaves at 7:30am and the last at 6:15pm. The one-way fare is $15 ($10 children 2-18) plus a $3 departure tax. A departure tax of $20 (children $10) is charged on your return trip to St. Martin; day-trippers and visiting yachts pay a $5 departure tax. No reservations are necessary. Ferries vary in size, and none takes passenger vehicles. Tip: Keep in mind that if you have a late-arriving flight, you may quite literally miss the (ferry) boat. You can either spend the night in St. Maarten/St. Martin or arrange a charter plane connection into Anguilla.

Most Anguilla hotels will also arrange (for a fee) private boat charters between the airport in St. Maarten and the ferry dock at Blowing Point, Anguilla, with door-to-door ground transportation.

St. Barts

The Voyager vessels (tel. 590/87-10-68; www.voy12.com or www.voyager-st-barths.com) make frequent (usually twice daily, sometimes more) runs between St. Barts and either side of St. Maarten/St. Martin. The schedule varies according to the season (and the seas), but the MV Voyager II usually departs Marigot Harbor for St. Barts every morning and evening. MV Voyager I travels from Oyster Pond to Gustavia two to four times daily. Advance reservations are a good idea; fares run around 50€ to 58€ adults, 30€ children 2-12 one way (plus taxes). The trip can take around 45 minutes and can be rough; it's recommended that those with weak tummies take seasickness medication before the trip.

The technologically advanced, speedy, more luxurious and stable 65-foot aluminum mono-hull Great Bay Express (tel. 590/27-60-33; www.sbhferry.com) offers daily 20- to 40-minute crossings between St. Maarten's Bobby's Marina in Philipsburg and Gustavia. The boat can carry 130 passengers. Reservations are essential; the roundtrip fare is 56€ to 95€ adults, 40€ to 50€ children 2 to 11 years (plus taxes).

Visitor Information

The Anguilla Tourist Board, Coronation Avenue, The Valley, Anguilla, B.W.I. (tel. 264/497-2759 or 800/553-4939; fax 264/497-2710; www.anguilla-vacation.com), is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5pm.

In the United States, contact Ms. Marie Walker, 246 Central Ave., White Plains, NY 10606 (tel. 877/426-4845 or 914/287-2400; mturnstyle@aol.com), or log onto www.anguilla-vacation.com. For U.S. travelers who need quick answers to questions about Anguilla, contact the toll-free Anguilla Hotline (tel. 800/418-4620).

In Canada, contact Ms. Dale Pusching, SRM Marketing, 20-225 Dundas St. E., Suite 411, Waterdown, Ontario, Canada L0R2H6 (tel. 866-348-7447; dpusching@anguillacanada.ca).

In the United Kingdom, contact Ms. Caroline Brown, c/o CSB Communications, Ltc., Suite 11, Parsons Green House, 21-37 Parsons Green Lane, London SW64HH (tel. 207/736-6030; info@anguilla-tourism.com).

Useful Websites -- In addition to the websites above, other helpful Internet sites include www.gov.ai (Anguilla government), and www.ahta.ai or www.anguillahta.com (Anguilla Hotel and Tourism Association) and the Anguillian newspaper (www.anguillian.com). The Anguilla Guide (www.anguillaguide.com) and the Anguilla Forum (www.anguillaforum.com) are very helpful, and the message boards often contain invaluable travel tips. Anguilla Life magazine comes out three times a year (www.anguillalife.com).

Useful Reading -- In the Valley, the Anguilla Arts and Crafts Center (tel. 264/497-2200) and the National Trust Office (tel. 264/497-5297; www.axanationaltrust.org) stock books on Anguilla, including guides to the local flora and fauna and Brenda Carty and Colville Petty's Anguilla, an Introduction and Guide, which is usually also available at Mr. Petty's Heritage Collection Museum in the island's East End.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call Anguilla from the U.S. and Canada, dial 1 and then the 10-digit number; to call the U.K. and New Zealand from Anguilla, dial 00 plus 1 and then the area code and number; to call Australia from Anguilla, dial 0011 plus 1 and then the area code and number.

To call the U.S. and Canada from Anguilla, dial 1 (the country code), the area code, and the seven-digit number. To call the U.K. from Anguilla, dial 011, then 44, then the telephone number. To call Australia from Anguilla, dial 011, then 61, then the area code and number. To call New Zealand from Anguilla, dial 011, then 64, then the area code and number.

Telephone, cable, and Telex services are offered by LIME (formerly Cable & Wireless Ltd.), Wallblake Road, the Valley (tel. 264/497-3100), open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5pm. Digicel (tel. 264/498-3444), with its main office by the Public Library in the Valley, usually has better rates for renting or buying a cellphone than LIME.

Toll-free Numbers -- There are no toll-free numbers on St. Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla, or St. Barts, and calling a 1-800 number in the States from them is not toll free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Cellphones

The three letters that define the islands' wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across the islands. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account.

For many, renting a phone on one of the islands is a good idea. You can rent a phone from any number of island sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies. Mobile phone rentals are available from Friendly Island Cellphone Rentals (tel. 599/553-7368), in Simpson Bay, St. Maarten; they'll even deliver the phone to your resort or villa. On Anguilla, you can arrange a phone rental through your hotel or resort or directly from LIME (formerly Cable & Wireless Ltd.), Wallblake Road, the Valley (tel. 264/497-3100), or Digicel (tel. 264/498-3444), with its main office by the Public Library in the Valley. On St. Barts, Centre @lizés, rue de la République, Gustavia (tel. 590/298-989) is a full-service Internet cafe that also offers cellphone and laptop rentals.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe. For all the details on restrictions and availability, check the websites above for details.

Internet/E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes on the islands, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hot spots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots on the islands, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems.

Health & Safety

There are no particular health concerns on St. Maarten/St. Martin, Anguilla, or St. Barts. The best medical facilities are on St. Maarten/St. Martin, with good clinics on Anguilla and St. Barts. Emergency airlift to Puerto Rico is available from all three destinations.

It's fairly easy to obtain major over-the-counter medication, with most major North American brands available as well as brands manufactured in Europe under unfamiliar names. Some leading prescription drugs for such common ailments as allergies, asthma, and acid reflux are also available over the counter, albeit by European pharmaceutical companies.

Common Ailments

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- The biggest menaces on all three islands are mosquitoes (none are disease vectors) and no-see-ums, which appear mainly in the early evening. Window screens aren't always sufficient, so carry insect repellent. In St. Barts, many pharmacies sell the Belou line of essential oils, which includes Belou's P Soothing Mosquito Repellent Oil, a natural repellent. Many of the products in the Ligne St. Barth (www.lignestbarth.com) line of creams and sunscreens contain roucou, considered to be a natural insect repellent; its shop/laboratory is on the Route de Salines in Lorient.

Sun Exposure -- The tropical sun can be brutal. Wear sunglasses and a hat, and apply sunscreen liberally. Increase your time on the beach gradually. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. Sun and heatstroke are possibilities, especially if you engage in strenuous physical activity. See a doctor immediately if fever, chills, dizziness, nausea, or headaches follow overexposure.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

It's easy to find good English-speaking doctors. You can find hospitals and emergency numbers in "Fast Facts".

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. You may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later. If you worry about getting sick away from home, you might want to consider buying medical travel insurance.

Crime & Safety

Petty crime has become an issue of concern on Dutch St. Maarten, with thefts and break-ins an increasing problem. Travelers are urged to lock their cars and lodging doors and windows at all times. Visitors should exercise common sense and take basic precautions everywhere on the island, including being aware of one's surroundings, avoiding walking alone after dark or in remote areas, and locking all valuables in a rental or hotel safe.

Anguilla is one of the safest destinations in the Caribbean, but you should still take standard precautions. Although crime is rare here, secure your valuables. Crime is also extremely rare on St. Barts; it's one of the safest islands in the Caribbean. But it's always wise to protect your valuables. Don't leave them unguarded on the beach or in parked cars, even if locked in the trunk.

Etiquette Tips -- Flaunting one's body (or any flagrant display) is frowned upon, especially on proper British Anguilla. Except at casual beach bars, men should wear some kind of shirt, women a wrap. Casual resort wear is recommended for most restaurants, especially at dinner. "Sunday dress" is appropriate when visiting churches, though ties aren't mandatory for men. In general, profanity is frowned upon.