In Anji

Both of the larger hotels mentioned above have a selection of reasonable restaurants to choose from. Downtown both a McDonald's and a KFC have opened along with a string of Western-style coffee shops that have sprung up opposite the post office. These serve both local dishes and rough approximations of Western food.

We especially liked Zhu Ge Kao Yu, 213-215 Sheng Li Xi Lu (tel. 0572/522-3118), one of the cleaner places in town and with a very friendly manager. Kao Yu means grilled fish and at around ¥40 per head portions are more than sufficient. This is a Chongqing brand so be clear when ordering if you are not a spicy fan.

On the opposite side of the river from the Sunny Land Resort is the Gu Long Ke Zhan (Ling Feng Scenic Spot; tel. 0572/533-2388), where most of the regular visitors are well-herded tour groups, so do not expect much in the way of personal service. Even so, they can provide tasty local fare; be sure to ask for the local bamboo beer (Anji Bamboo Science Beer), which is served in shallow pottery bowls and might turn out to be one of the best finds on your trip.

Other local specialties to look out for are sha bing, savory unleavened bread cooked in the same way that Indians fire chapattis, and delicious at only ¥.50 each. The area is famous for its hickory nuts (shan he tao) and its walnuts (he tao) with both deserving their well-earned reputations. You should also try the dried sweet potatoes (hong shu gan) that are wonderfully tender and the dried sliced kiwis (qi yi guo) that taste sweeter than most factory-produced candies.

In Moganshan

In Yinshanjie you can find several restaurants, hotels, and a Western-run coffee shop/restaurant. The local restaurants are in the village center. Here you'll be served tasty home-style food; be sure to try the local delicacies, including wild partridge, celery, mushrooms, and tea -- all hunted down in the area's bamboo forests.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.