Beaches in Antalya

Located below Mermerli Park at the eastern end of Kaleiçi is Memerli Plaji (entrance through the Memerli Restaurant, entrance 8TL includes lounges and umbrellas), a miniature beach backed by the ancient sea walls. An icy spring shoots out of the rock at the end of the beach, but the narrow sandy strip tends to get a bit crowded and the service from the cliff-top bar/restaurant is very hands-on.

A favorite beach destination for residents of Antalya is Konyaalti, a long stretch of pristine pebble beach backed by a meandering promenade chock-full of activities, including playgrounds and the Dolphinarium-Aqualand-Aquapark complex (www.antalya-dolphinarium.com), Antalya's largest water park. Kids will particularly enjoy the dolphin show, where for 18€ per person you can smile in wonder along with your little ones, and for 60€ you can swim with the dolphins (combo rates with the Aquapark are available). The whole complex has been dubbed Antalya Beach Park; as of this writing, it featured 10 beach "clubs" -- swaths of waterfront brightly equipped with lounges and umbrellas, and serviced by cafes, restaurants, changing cabins, and showers. Beach admission fees vary from about 4TL to 10TL per day and include use of the facilities. Most of the beach establishments have a watersports center, with jet skis for rent by the quarter-hour, parasailing, ringo rides, water-skiing, kayaks, sea bikes, and windsurfing, to name a few. As the sun sets, beach clubs morph into stylish outdoor nightclubs, providing cushions and lounges for lots of posing and draping, and an atmosphere of high style and frivolity. Main access to the beach is down a switchback road between the archaeological museum and the park; pedestrians can enter via a series of steps and bridges behind the Sheraton Hotel or through the Hillside Su.

The sparse and sandy Lara Beach stretches along the coast in the opposite direction, a little over 11km (6 3/4 miles) east of downtown. There are about 11 private beach clubs (named by number) or the public Lara Halk Plaji, all with essential services, food, drink, showers, and entertainment. Minibuses (nos. 18, 30, or 77) pass along the beachfront after about a half-hour to 45-minute ride, depending on where you get off. But however lovely the long stretches of sand that extend the length of Lara, it's a bit of a stretch for me to tell you to go there, given the convenience and appeal of Konyaalti. Unless, of course, your itinerary coincides with Antalya's Sand Sculpture Exhibition. A fantasy of artistic caprice, the exhibition lasts from late June through September or October. The theme in 2009 was "Mythology," and it's the best thing you can lay your eyes on before the tide comes in.

Freshwater springs gushing off the mountains have found several awe-inspiring outlets in and around Antalya. At the Lower Düden Waterfalls, on the road to Lara Beach, the waters plunge straight into the sea. Alternately, go an additional 13km (8 miles) to the Upper Düden Waterfalls, unique because you can walk behind the cascade. Both offer a bracing, high-pressure shower in the midst of some of Mother Nature's best.

Heading west by car, Antalya's sprawl dissipates and small beaches and clusters of resort hotels dot the coastal road. The planned resort village of Kemer, 43km (27 miles) later, takes advantage of aquamarine calm waters backed by craggy mountainous cliffs, as waves lap through the pebbles creating a relaxing munching sound. The narrow beach is equipped with lounges and umbrellas, and the overpriced shopping strip stocks enough cash registers to keep you busy after sunning.

Just 14km (8 3/4 miles) farther west is the ancient port city of Phaselis (daily summer 8am-6pm, winter 8am-4pm), a nature-lover's delight nestled amid the pine trees on the edge of three pristine and scenic bays. Plan to spend the day (entrance fee 8TL) to wade in the waters and wander through the main streets, agoras, baths, and temples of this enchanting ancient city. Finish the day off with a stroll through the resort of Tekirova, a slightly more charming and pleasantly downscale version of Kemer located on the opposite side of Phaselis.