Evenings start late in Arica, particularly on weekends, so seating shouldn't be difficult if you head off early. Despite its proximity to Peru, the food is heavily Chilean, with some of the better restaurants dabbling in regional cuisine. Peruvian influence is limited largely to the many roast chicken eateries and, interestingly, Chinese chifas. For people-watching, go to the cafes on 21 de Mayo downtown, or head to the places on Raul Pey, a stone's throw from the Chinchorro beach, which are lively deep into the night.
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