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El Corral del Indianu

Gastronomic pilgrims also beat a path to the door of Chef José Antonio Campoviejo, who is something of a self-styled madman with wild hair and a penchant for reimagining traditional Asturian flavors in new ways. He glazes the local organically raised veal with whiskey, herbs, and mushrooms, and he turns paella rice into Asian-style sticky rice with sautéed vegetables, meats, and local kelp. Asturian cooking has never been considered anything but hearty. It is a cuisine of fatty meats, strongly flavored fish, and lots and lots of beans. But in Campoviejo’s hands, it becomes light and even delicate, with dishes like a salmorejo of wild strawberries and local heavy cream, or a shot glass–sized serving of fabada with perfect white beans enrobed with liquefied bacon and puréed cabbage and topped with a thin slice of raw onion and tiny cubes of blood sausage. The restaurant has a rustic yet modern dining room, as well as a glass-enclosed room that enjoys views of the patio gardens. The a la carte menu is brief, but most diners come for the 10-course tasting menu, which changes with Campoviejo’s whims.

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