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With its ruined castle and small piazza high above the Vale of Spoleto, the warm-pink glow of Spello is visible for miles. The town makes an essential half-day for art-lovers (just 14km/9 miles south of Assisi), with the best Pinturicchio you can see for free, and one of Umbria's most charming festivals; each Corpus Christi (60 days after Easter), the streets are carpeted in murals made with fresh petals for the Infiorate (www.infioratespello.it), literally "flower decorations." The tourist office (tel. 0742-301-009; www.comune.spello.pg.it) is at Piazza Matteotti 3. It's open daily 9:30am to 12:30pm and 3:30 to 5:30pm all year.

The major highlight here is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore (daily 8:30am-noon and 3-7pm; free admission), in Piazza Matteotti. To the left and right of the altar a Madonna and Child and a Pietà by Perugino neatly book-end the life of Christ. The spectacular Cappella Baglioni, frescoed like Siena's Piccolomini Library, is by Pinturicchio. It's on the left as you walk in; take 1€ to turn on the lights. The vaulted ceiling depicts four sibyls (pre-Christian prophetesses). The three main panels read left to right: an Annunciation, followed by a Nativity and Christ's Dispute with the Doctors. At the far end of the first panel, a Pinturicchio self-portrait appears to hang on the wall like a painting (but it's just part of the mural). Also worth a look is the Mosaci Villa Romana (Tues-Sun 10:30am-12:30pm and 3-5pm; 3€), a group of delicate 4th-century Roman mosaics protected beneath a futuristic dome on the outskirts of the old town (at Via Porta Consolare). It looks a bit ordinary from the outside, but the large panoramic garden at Bar Bonci (tel. 0742-651-397), Via Garibaldi 10, is an ideal spot to take a break in Spello. You can share plates of local salami, cheeses, and torta al testo. It's open 7am to 10pm and to midnight March to October (closed Wed).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.