With its ruined castle and small piazza high above the Vale of Spoleto, the warm-pink glow of Spello is visible for miles. The town makes an essential half-day for art-lovers (just 14km/9 miles south of Assisi), with the best Pinturicchio you can see for free, and one of Umbria's most charming festivals; each Corpus Christi (60 days after Easter), the streets are carpeted in murals made with fresh petals for the Infiorate (www.infioratespello.it), literally "flower decorations." The tourist office (tel. 0742-301-009; www.comune.spello.pg.it) is at Piazza Matteotti 3. It's open daily 9:30am to 12:30pm and 3:30 to 5:30pm all year.
The major highlight here is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore (daily 8:30am-noon and 3-7pm; free admission), in Piazza Matteotti. To the left and right of the altar a Madonna and Child and a Pietà by Perugino neatly book-end the life of Christ. The spectacular Cappella Baglioni, frescoed like Siena's Piccolomini Library, is by Pinturicchio. It's on the left as you walk in; take 1€ to turn on the lights. The vaulted ceiling depicts four sibyls (pre-Christian prophetesses). The three main panels read left to right: an Annunciation, followed by a Nativity and Christ's Dispute with the Doctors. At the far end of the first panel, a Pinturicchio self-portrait appears to hang on the wall like a painting (but it's just part of the mural). Also worth a look is the Mosaci Villa Romana (Tues-Sun 10:30am-12:30pm and 3-5pm; 3€), a group of delicate 4th-century Roman mosaics protected beneath a futuristic dome on the outskirts of the old town (at Via Porta Consolare). It looks a bit ordinary from the outside, but the large panoramic garden at Bar Bonci (tel. 0742-651-397), Via Garibaldi 10, is an ideal spot to take a break in Spello. You can share plates of local salami, cheeses, and torta al testo. It's open 7am to 10pm and to midnight March to October (closed Wed).
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