Planning a trip to Athens

Getting into Town from the Airport

Getting into post-Olympics Athens is an entirely different experience than what it used to be. The airport is linked to the city with a six-lane expressway (Attiki Odos), Metro, buses, and taxis. Public transportation to and from the airport is excellent and advised (especially the Metro because buses can be slow and get stuck in traffic during rush hour once they enter the city).

By Metro

Line 3 of the Metro (www.amel.gr; 8€ one-way, 14€ round-trip -- valid for 48 hr.; one-way fare for two people is 15€ and 20€ for three) is more convenient, less expensive, and faster than any other way of getting from the airport to downtown or vice versa. Unless you have a lot of luggage the Metro is an excellent, good-value option. Metro line 3 serves the city center (where you can switch to the other lines at either Monastiraki or Syntagma stations) from the airport. The trip takes roughly 40 minutes and trains run every half-hour from 6:30am to 11:30pm. From the city to the airport (leaving from Syntagma and Monastiraki), trains run from 5:50am to 10:50pm. To get to Piraeus, switch at Monastiraki station to line 1; total travel time is about 1 hour. The airport ticket is valid for all forms of public transportation for 90 minutes; if you're approaching 90 minutes and are still in transit, simply revalidate your ticket by having it punched again. The Metro runs from 5:30am to midnight Sunday through Thursday and until 2am on Friday and Saturday.

By Suburban Railroad

The suburban railroad (www.trainose.gr/en) runs to and from the Larissa station, Doukissis Plakentias, with a connection to Metro line 1 at Nerantziotissa (at the Athens Mall in Marousi near the Athens Olympic Complex) and from the airport to the port of Piraeus. It might not be as convenient as line 3 to get downtown but it is more comfortable, not as crowded, and runs longer hours. Trains to the airport run from 4:30am to midnight, while the trains from the airport to the city run from 5am to 1:20am. The suburban railroad has the same pricing as the Metro; the only difference is that the return ticket is valid for a month. This is the best option to get from the airport to the port of Piraeus. Total travel time: 65 minutes.

By Bus

Buses (www.oasa.gr) are far slower than the Metro but they run 24 hours, and can reach areas the Metro does not, such as the coast. If you want to take a bus from the airport into central Athens, be prepared for what may be a long wait and a slow journey.

Several bus lines travel to and from the airport to destinations throughout the city. All buses depart from the designated area outside the Arrivals Hall of the main terminal building (doors 4 and 5). Bus service from the airport to Syntagma Square (X95) or to Piraeus (X96) costs 5€. The X95 runs every 10 minutes from 7am-10pm and every half-hour from 10pm-7am. The X96 runs every 20 minutes from 7am-10pm and every 40 minutes from 10pm-7am.

You can buy the ticket from a booth beside the bus stop or on the bus, and you must validate your ticket by punching it in the machine within the bus. And it's always a good idea to double-check where your bus is going by asking the driver before boarding. By Taxi -- The easiest way to get to town, you would assume, would be to take a taxi from the terminal. This is not as simple as it sounds: Greeks regard waiting in line with amusement, and getting a cab as a fiercely competitive sport. The City of Athens has created a flat rate from the airport to downtown Athens (Omonia Sq. and the Plaka/Makrigianni districts). Once you are in the taxi, make sure the meter is set on the correct tariff (tariff 1 is charged 5am-midnight; tariff 2 midnight-5am). For Omonoia, the price is 32€ (tariff 1); and 42€ (tariff 2); each rate includes all additional charges such as tolls and luggage. If you're heading for the Plaka/Makrigianni districts (at Hadrian's Gate), the rate is daytime 35€ and nighttime 50€. Depending on traffic, the cab ride can take under 30 minutes or well over an hour -- something to remember when you return to the airport. Most likely you will not encounter any problems aside from city traffic. For more information check out the Athens Taxi Info site at www.athenstaxi.info. For other destinations, be sure to discuss your destination before getting into the taxi, either with an airline official or a policeman, to get the official flat rate price to your specific destination. If there's a problem with the taxi driver, you may threaten to call the police (tel. 100).

By Car

Even though post-Olympics Athens is a radically different city -- with the Metro, the railroad, and a new network of ring roads that have eased the city's notorious traffic -- make no mistake, it is not an easy city to drive in, and if you're unfamiliar with the streets, it can be downright horrific. We recommend that you do not drive in Athens. If you still choose to drive into Athens, you'll pass through the region known as Mesogeia (the Inland). Until the new airport was built, this was one of the loveliest sections of Athens, with vineyards stretching for miles, sleepy country villages, and handsome chapels. Much of the area constituted the protected Attic Park; now, the once-protected wetlands and vineyards are being turned into new towns, subdevelopments, malls -- and more roads. Numerous exits serve the most important areas of Athens.

If you plan to rent a car and head north or south, avoiding the city altogether, it's easier to do thanks to the new National Highway. If you're headed for Peloponnese, simply follow the signs for Elefsina. If you're headed toward northern Greece (including the city of Thessaloniki), get off at the Lamia exit.

Visitor Information

The Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT or GNTO) is at 7 Tsochas St., Ambelokipi (tel. 210/870-0000; www.visitgreece.gr; Metro: Ambelokipi). The office is officially open Monday through Friday, 8am to 3pm, and is closed on weekends. The GNTO information desk office is at 18-20 Dionissiou Aeropagitou St. (tel. 210/331-0392; Metro: Acropolis; Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun 10am-4pm). An information desk (tel. 210/345-0445) and an Info-Point (tel. 210/325-3123; www.atedco.gr) are also located at the airport. Two Info-Points are in the city in the Makrigianni district on the corner of Amalias Avenue and Dionisiou Aeropagitou Street (near the Acropolis metro station and the Acropolis Museum) and in the port of Piraeus. Both have excellent brochures and city maps, plus digital tours of the city. All Info-Points operate daily from 9am-9pm. Information about Athens, free city maps, transportation schedules, hotel lists, and other booklets on many regions of Greece are available at the office in Greek, English, French, and German.

Available 24 hours a day, the tourist police (tel. 210/171) speak English as well as other languages, and will help you with problems or emergencies.

Athens Info Online -- The Ministry of Culture information site for archaeological sites, monuments, and museums is www.culture.gr. Four invaluable websites with a wealth of information and daily updates are www.visitgreece.gr, www.cityofathens.gr, www.breathtakingathens.com, and www.athens24.com.

Striking Out in Athens -- Strikes can close museums and archaeological sites without warning. Decide what you most want to see, and go there as soon as possible after you arrive.

Tourism Information in Athens -- The Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT, also known as the Hellenic Tourism Organization) is at 18-20 Dionissiou Aeropagitou St. (tel. 210/870-0000; www.visitgreece.gr), near the Acropolis metro stop and the Acropolis Museum. The office is officially open Monday through Friday, 9am to 7pm and 10am-4pm on weekends. Two Info-Points (tel. 210/325-3123; www.atedco.gr) are available, apart from the one in the airport, one in the Makrigianni district (at Amalias and Dionissiou Aeropagitou sts.) and the other in the port of Piraeus. All three are open daily from 9am-9pm.

Asking for It: Discounts & Maps -- Ask about a discounted ticket if you are a student or a senior. Often these discounts apply only to members of Common Market countries. Also, ask for the handy information brochure available at most sites and museums; ticket sellers do not always hand it over unless reminded.

When to Go

From mid-March through May, the weather is almost always pleasant in Athens, although Greeks rightly say that the March wind has "teeth." Between June and August, the temperature usually rises steadily, making August a good month to emulate the Athenian practice of avoiding the city. If you do come here in August, you'll find that Athens, like Paris, belongs to the tourists: Some 60% of all Athenians take their summer holiday between the 1st and 15th of August. Stretches when it's well over 100°F (38°C) are not uncommon in August, when anyone with health problems such as asthma should be wary of Athens's nefos (smog). Because the city can be hot and exhausting, give yourself time off for a coffee or a cold drink in a cafe. After all, you're on vacation!

September is usually balmy, with occasional light rain, although it's not unknown for August heat to spill over well into September. October usually offers beautiful summer/autumn weather, although with rain and some wind likely. It might even be intermittently chilly.

Most rain falls between November and February, when Athens can be colder and windier than you might expect. Average daytime temperatures range from 52°F (11°C) in January to 92°F (33°C) in August.

Parking

As you begin to explore, you may find it helpful to look up to the Acropolis, west of Syntagma Square, and to Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus), to the northeast. From most parts of the city, you can see both the Acropolis and Likavitos, whose marble lower slopes give way to pine trees and a summit crowned with a small white church.

Think of central Athens as an almost perfect equilateral triangle, with its points at Syntagma (Constitution) Square, Omonia (Harmony) Square, and Monastiraki (Little Monastery) Square, near the Acropolis. The area bounded by Syntagma, Omonia, and Monastiraki squares is defined as the commercial center, from which cars are banned except for several cross streets. At one time Omonia Square -- Athens's commercial hub -- was considered the city center, but nowadays, most Greeks think of it as Syntagma Square, site of the House of Parliament. The two squares are connected by parallel streets, Stadiou and Panepistimiou, and where you will find the Neoclassical University Trilogy. (Panepistimiou is also known as Eleftheriou Venizelou.)

Flanking the Parliament building is one of Athens's most beautiful parks, the National Gardens. Right adjacent is the Zappeio Hall and gardens, another beautiful oasis in the center of the city. West of Syntagma Square, Ermou and Mitropoleos lead slightly downhill to Monastiraki Square, home of the city's famous flea market. From Monastiraki Square, Athinas leads north back to Omonia past the modern Central Market. The old warehouse district of Psirri -- now the home of many chic galleries, cafes, and restaurants -- is between Athinas and Ermou.

If you stand in Monastiraki Square and look south, you'll see the Acropolis. At its foot are the Ancient Agora (Market) and the Plaka, Athens's oldest neighborhood, many of whose street names honor Greek heroes from either classical antiquity or the Greek War of Independence. The twisting labyrinth of streets in the Plaka can challenge even the best navigators. Don't panic: The Plaka is small enough that you can't go far astray, and its side streets with small houses and neighborhood churches are so charming that you won't mind being lost. An excellent map may help. Also, many Athenians speak some English, and almost all are helpful to direction-seeking strangers -- unless you happen to be the 10th person in as many minutes to ask where the Acropolis is when it is clearly visible!

Finding an Address -- If possible, have the address you want written out in Greek so you can show it to your taxi driver, or ask for help from pedestrians. Most street signs are given both in Greek and a transliteration, which is a great help. Most taxi drivers carry a good Athens street guide and can usually find any destination. Increasingly, however, some Athenian cabbies are newcomers themselves to the capital and may have trouble with out-of-the-way addresses.

Street Maps -- The free maps handed out at branches of the Greek National Tourism Organization have small print and poor-quality paper. You may prefer to stop at a newspaper kiosk or bookstore to pick up a copy of the Greek Archaeological Service's Historical Map of Athens (with maps of the Plaka and of the city center showing the major archaeological sites). The map costs about 4€.

Fast Facts

ATMs -- Automated teller machines are increasingly common at banks throughout Athens. The National Bank of Greece operates a 24-hour ATM in Syntagma Square.

It is not a good idea to rely on ATMs in Athens, since the machines are often out of service when you need them most, particularly on holidays or during bank strikes. If your PIN includes letters, be sure that you know their numerical equivalent, as Greek ATMs do not have letters.

Banks -- Banks are generally open Monday through Thursday, 8am to 2pm and Friday 8am to 2:30pm. In summer, the exchange office at the National Bank of Greece in Syntagma Square (tel. 210/334-0015) is open Monday through Thursday from 3:30 to 6:30pm, Friday from 3 to 6:30pm, Saturday from 9am to 3pm, and Sunday from 9am to 1pm. Other centrally located banks include Citibank, in Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-7471); Bank of America, 39 Panepistimiou (tel. 210/324-4975); and Barclays Bank, 15 Voukourestiou (tel. 210/364-4311). All banks are closed on the long list of Greek holidays. Most banks exchange currency at the rate set daily by the government. This rate is often more favorable than that offered at unofficial exchange bureaus. Still, a little comparison shopping is worthwhile. Some hotels offer better-than-official rates, though only for cash, as do some stores, usually when you are making a big purchase.

Business Hours -- Even Greeks get confused by their complicated, changeable business hours. In winter, shops are generally open Monday and Wednesday from 9am to 5pm; Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday from 10am to 7pm; and Saturday from 8:30am to 3:30pm. In summer, shops are generally open Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday from 8am to 3pm; and Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday from 8am to 2pm and 5:30 to 10pm. Most stores in central Athens, though, remain open all day.

Department stores and supermarkets are open 8am to 8pm Monday to Friday and 8am to 6pm Saturday.

Dentists & Doctors -- Embassies may have lists of dentists and doctors. Some English-speaking physicians advertise in the daily Athens News.

Embassies & Consulates -- Australia, Level 6, Thon Building, corner Kiffisias & Alexandras, Ambelokipi (tel. 210/870-4000; www.greece.embassy.gov.au); Canada, 4 Ioannou Yenadiou (tel. 210/727-3400 or 210/725-4011; www.greece.gc.ca); Ireland, 7 Vas. Konstantinou (tel. 210/723-2771); New Zealand, 76 Kifissias Ave, Ambelokipi (tel. 210/692-4136); South Africa, 60 Kifissias, Maroussi (tel. 210/680-6645); United Kingdom, 1 Ploutarchou (tel. 210/723-6211; www.bhcc.gr); United States, 91 Leoforos Vas. Sofias (tel. 210/721-2951 or 210/729-4301 for emergencies; www.athens.usembassy.gov). Be sure to phone ahead before you go to any embassy; most keep limited hours and are usually closed on their own holidays as well as Greek ones. For a list of all embassies, log on to www.embassy-finder.com.

Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial tel. 100 for the police and tel. 171 for the tourist police. Dial tel. 199 to report a fire and tel. 166 for an ambulance and the hospital. Athens has a 24-hour line for foreigners, the Visitor Emergency Assistance at tel. 112 in English and French. If you need an English-speaking doctor or dentist, try SOS Doctor (tel. 1016 or 210/361-7089). There are two medical hot lines for foreigners: tel. 210/721-2951 (day) and 210/729-4301 (night) for U.S. citizens; and tel. 210/723-6211 (day) and 210/723-7727 (night) for British citizens. The English-language Athens News (published Fri) lists some American- and British-trained doctors and hospitals offering emergency services. Most of the larger hotels can call a doctor for you in an emergency.

KAT, the emergency hospital in Kifissia (tel. 210/801-4411 to -4419), and Asklepion Voulas, the emergency hospital in Voula (tel. 210/895-3416 to -3418), have emergency rooms open 24 hours a day. Evangelismos, a centrally located hospital below the Kolonaki district on 9 Vas. Sophias (tel. 210/722-0101), usually has English-speaking staff on duty. If you need medical attention fast, don't waste time trying to call these hospitals: Just go. They will see to you as soon as possible.

In addition, each major hospital takes its turn each day being on emergency duty. A recorded message in Greek at tel. 210/106 tells which hospital is open for emergency services and gives the telephone number.

Internet Access -- Internet cafes, where you can check and send e-mail, have proliferated in Athens almost as fast as cellphones. Most midrange to top-end hotels have at least an "Internet corner," but for a current list of Athenian cybercafes, check out www.athensinfoguide.com. Also, several Wi-Fi hot spots can be found across the city, such as Syntagma Square, Kotzia Square, Flisvos marina, and the Thission; the airport and several cafes also offer free Wi-Fi.

Lost & Found -- If you lose something on the street or on public transportation, it is probably gone for good. If you wish, contact the police's Lost and Found, 173 Leoforos Alexandras (tel. 210/642-1616), open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 3pm. For losses on the Metro, there is an office in Syntagma station (tel. 210/327-9630; www.amel.gr; Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, Sat 8am-4pm). Lost passports and other documents may be returned by the police to the appropriate embassy, so check there as well. It's an excellent idea to travel with photocopies of your important documents, including passport, prescriptions, tickets, phone numbers, and addresses.

Luggage Storage & Lockers -- If you're coming back to stay, many hotels will store excess luggage while you travel. There are storage facilities at Athens International Airport, at the Metro stations in Piraeus and Monastiraki, and at the train stations.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Athens News is published every Friday in English, with a weekend section listing events of interest; it's available at kiosks everywhere. Most central Athens newsstands also carry the International Herald Tribune, which has an English-language insert of highlights from the Greek daily Kathimerini, and USA Today. Local weeklies include the Hellenic Times, with entertainment listings, and Athinorama (in Greek), which has comprehensive listings of events. Athens Best Of (monthly) and Now in Athens (published every other month) have information on restaurants, shopping, museums, and galleries, and are available free in major hotels and sometimes from the Greek National Tourism Organization.

Pharmacies -- Pharmakia, identified by green crosses, are scattered throughout Athens. Hours are usually Monday through Friday, 8am to 2pm. In the evenings and on weekends, most are closed, but each posts a notice listing the location of pharmacies that are open or will open in an emergency. Newspapers such as the Athens News list the pharmacies open outside regular hours.

Police -- In an emergency, dial tel. 100. For help dealing with a troublesome taxi driver, hotel staff, restaurant staff, or shop owner, stand your ground and call the tourist police at tel. 171.

Post Offices -- The main post offices in central Athens are at 100 Eolou, south of Omonia Square; and in Syntagma Square, at the corner of 60 Mitropoleos. They are open Monday to Friday, 7:30am to 8pm, Saturday 7:30am to 2pm, and Sunday 9am to 1pm.

All post offices accept parcels, but the Parcel Post Office is at 4 Stadiou inside the arcade (tel. 210/322-8940). It's open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 8pm. It usually sells twine and cardboard shipping boxes. Parcels must remain open for inspection before you seal them at the post office.

You can receive correspondence in Athens c/o American Express, 2 Ermou, 10225 Athens, Greece (tel. 210/324-4975), near the southwest corner of Syntagma Square, open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 4pm and Saturday from 8:30am to 1:30pm. If you have an American Express card or traveler's checks, the service is free; otherwise, each article costs 2€.

Restrooms -- There are public restrooms in the underground station beneath Omonia and Syntagma squares and beneath Kolonaki Square, but you'll probably prefer a hotel or restaurant restroom. (Toilet paper is often not available, so carry tissue with you. Do not flush paper down the commode; use the receptacle provided.)

Safety -- Athens is among the safest capitals in Europe, and there are few reports of violent crimes. Pickpocketing, however, is not uncommon, especially in the Plaka and Omonia Square areas, on the Metro and buses, and in Piraeus. Unfortunately, it is a good idea to be wary of Gypsy children and super-friendly strangers. When in the Metro, always place your valuables in your front pockets. We advise travelers to avoid the side streets of Omonia and Piraeus at night. As always, leave your passport and valuables in a security box at the hotel. Carry a photocopy of your passport, not the original.

Taxes -- A VAT (value-added tax) of between 4% and 18% is added onto everything you buy. Some shops will attempt to cheat you by quoting one price and then, when you hand over your credit card, they will add on a hefty VAT charge. Be wary. In theory, if you are not a member of a Common Market/E.U. country, you can get a refund on major purchases at the Athens airport when you leave Greece. In practice, you would have to arrive at the airport a day before your flight to get to the head of the line, do the paperwork, get a refund, and catch your flight.

Telephones -- Many of the city's public phones now accept only phone cards, available at the airport, newsstands, and the Telecommunications Organization of Greece (OTE) offices in several denominations, currently starting at 3€. Most OTE offices and Germanos stores (including the one in the airport) now sell cellphones and phone cards at reasonable prices; if you are in Greece for a month, you may find this a good option. Some kiosks still have metered phones; you pay what the meter records. North Americans can phone home directly by contacting AT&T (tel. 00/800-1311), MCI (tel. 00/800-1211), or Sprint (tel. 00/800-1411); calls can be collect or billed to your phone charge card. For reverse (collect) calls, dial 161. All visitors can call home (beware of hotel surcharges if you decide to call from your hotel room) by first dialing the International Direct Dial Code, 00, followed by the country's code (U.S.: 1, UK: 0044, Canada: 011, Ireland: 353, Australia: 61, New Zealand: 64), the area code, and then the number. You can send a telegram or fax from OTE offices. The OTE office at 15 Stadiou, near Syntagma, is open 24 hours a day. The Omonia Square OTE, at 50 Athinas, and the Victoria Square OTE, at 85 Patission, are open Monday through Friday 7am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 3pm, and Sunday 9am to 2pm. Outside Athens, most OTEs are closed on weekends.

Tipping -- Athenian restaurants include a service charge in the bill, but many visitors add a 10% tip. Most Greeks do not give a percentage tip to taxi drivers, but often round up the fare; for example, you would round up a fare of 2.80€ to 3€.

Getting Around

By Metro

The Metro (www.amel.gr) runs from 5:30am to midnight Sunday through Thursday; on Friday and Saturday, trains run until 2am. All stations are wheelchair accessible. Stop at the Syntagma station or go to the GNTO for a system map. To travel on the Metro, buy your ticket at the station, validate it in the machines as you enter, and hang onto it until you get off. A single ticket costs 1.40€; a day pass costs 4€. Make sure you validate your ticket as you enter the waiting platform, or you'll risk a fine. Metro and bus tickets are interchangeable, except for bus E22, that heads to the coast and costs 1.60€ more.

Even if you do not use the Metro to get around Athens, you may want to take it from Omonia, Monastiraki, or Thissio to Piraeus to catch a boat to the islands. (Don't miss the spectacular view of the Acropolis as the subway goes aboveground by the Agora.) The harbor in Piraeus is a 5-minute walk from the Metro station. Take the footbridge from the Metro and you're there.

Cultured Commuting -- Allow extra time when you catch the Metro in central Athens: Three stations -- Syntagma Square, Monastiraki, and Acropolis -- handsomely display finds from the subway excavations in what amount to Athens's newest small museums. For more info, visit www.amel.gr.

By Bus & Trolley Bus

Although you can get almost everywhere you want in central Athens and the suburbs by bus or trolley, it can be confusing to figure out which bus to take. This is especially true now, when many bus routes change as new Metro stations open. Even if you know which bus to take, you may have to wait a long time until the bus appears -- usually stuffed with passengers. Check out the Athens Urban Transport Organisation (tel. 185; www.oasa.gr) for directions, timetables, route details, and maps.

If you find none of this daunting, tickets cost 1.20€ each (or 1.40€ to be combined with the Metro, trolley, and tram for up to 90 min.) and can be bought from periptera (kiosks) scattered throughout the city. The tickets are sold individually or in packets of 10. Tickets are good for rides anywhere on the system. Be certain to validate yours when you get on. Tip: Hold on to your ticket. Uniformed and plainclothes inspectors periodically check tickets and can levy a basic fine of 5€ or a more punitive fine of 30€ to 60€ on the spot!

If you're heading out of town and take a blue A-line bus to transfer to another blue A-line bus, your ticket will still be valid for the transfer.

In central Athens, minibus nos. 60 and 150 serve the commercial area free of charge.

Buses headed to farther points of Attica leave from Mavromateon on the western edge of Pedion tou Areos Park, at the western end of Leoforos Alexandras.

By Tram

Athens's tram (www.tramsa.gr) connects downtown to the city's coast. Though it may not be the fastest means of transport, it takes a scenic route once it hits the coast and is handy for those wishing to visit the city's beaches and the coastline's attractions and nightlife. The tram runs on a 24-hour schedule Friday and Saturday and 5am to midnight Sunday through Thursday; tickets are 1.20€ (1.40€ if you wish to continue your journey with the Metro, bus, or trolley bus for up to 90 min.) and must be validated at the platform or inside the tram. Trams are comfortable and air-conditioned. A ride from Syntagma Square to the current last stop in seafront Voula is a little over an hour.

By Taxi

It's rumored that there are more than 15,000 taxis in Athens, but finding an empty one is not easy. Especially if you have travel connections to make, it's a good idea to reserve a radio taxi . Fortunately, taxis are inexpensive, and most drivers are honest men trying to wrest a living by maneuvering through the city's endemic gridlock. However, some drivers, notably those working Piraeus, the airports, and popular tourist destinations, can't resist trying to overcharge obvious foreigners.

When you get into a taxi during the day and up until midnight, check the meter. Make sure it is turned on and set to 1 (the daytime rate) rather than 2 (the night rate). The meter will register 1€. The meter should be set on 2 (double fare) only between midnight and 5am or if you take a taxi outside the city limits; if you plan to do this, negotiate a flat rate in advance. The "1" meter rate is .32€ per kilometer. There's a surcharge of 1€ for service from a port or from a rail or bus station. Luggage costs .32€ per 10 kg (22 lb.). Taxis to and from the airport to downtown have a flat rate of 35 € (5am-midnight) and 50€ (midnight-5am). Don't be surprised if the driver picks up other passengers en route; he will work out everyone's share of the fare. The minimum fare is 2.80€. These prices will almost certainly be higher by the time you visit Greece.

If you suspect that you have been overcharged, ask for help at your hotel or destination before you pay the fare.

Your driver may find it difficult to understand your pronunciation of your destination; ask a hotel staff member to speak to the driver directly or write down the address so you can show it to the driver. Carry a business card from your hotel, so you can show it to the taxi driver on your return.

There are about 15 radio taxi companies in Athens; their phone numbers change often, so check the daily listing in "Your Guide" in the Athens News. Some established companies include Athina (tel. 210/921-7942), Express (tel. 210/993-4812), Parthenon (tel. 210/532-3300), and Piraeus (tel. 210/418-2333). If you're trying to make travel connections or are traveling during rush hour, a radio taxi is well worth the 2.80€ surcharge. Your hotel can call for you and make sure that the driver knows where you want to go. Most restaurants will call a taxi for you without charge.

The GNTO's pamphlet Helpful Hints for Taxi Users has information on taxi fares as well as a complaint form, which you can send to the Ministry of Transport and Communication, 13 Xenophondos, 10191 Athens. Replies to complaints should be forwarded to the Guinness Book of World Records.

By Car

In Athens, a car is far more trouble than convenience. The traffic is heavy, and finding a parking place is extremely difficult. Keep in mind that if you pick up your rental car at the airport, you may pay a hefty (sometimes daily) surcharge. Picking up a car in town involves struggling through Athens's traffic to get out of town. That said, we do have some suggestions to follow.

Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, and National all have offices at Athens International Airport.

Tip: Renting a car from abroad is invariably cheaper than negotiating for one on the spot in Athens. In fact, the savings in the rental rate usually make it worth your while to telephone or e-mail a major car-rental firm in the U.S. from Greece, if you haven't made arrangements to rent a car before you left your home country.

If you decide to rent a car in Athens, you'll find many rental agencies south of Syntagma Square and in Athens International Airport. Some of the better agencies include Avis, 46-48 Leoforos Amalias (tel. 210/687-9600; www.avis.gr); Budget Rent a Car, 8 Leoforos Syngrou (tel. 210/898-1444; www.budget-athens.gr); Eurodollar Rent a Car, 29 Leoforos Syngrou (tel. 210/922-9672 or 210/923-0548); Hellascars, 148 Leoforos Syngrou (tel. 210/923-5353 to -5359); Hertz, 12 Leoforos Syngrou (tel. 210/922-0102 to -0104; www.hertz.gr) and 71 Leoforos Vas. Sofias (tel. 210/724-7071 or 210/722-7391); and Thrifty Hellas Rent a Car, 24 Leoforos Syngrou (tel. 210/922-1211 to -1213; www.thriftygreece.gr). Prices for rentals range from 50€ to 100€ per day. Warning: Be sure to take full insurance and ask if the price you are quoted includes everything -- taxes, drop-off fee, gasoline charges, and other fees.

On Foot

Since most of what you'll want to see and do in Athens is in the city center, it's easy to do most of your sightseeing on foot. Fortunately, Athens has created pedestrian zones in sections of the Commercial Triangle (the area bounded by Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares), the Plaka, and Kolonaki, making strolling, window-shopping, and sightseeing infinitely more pleasant. Dionissiou Areopagitou, at the southern foot of the Acropolis, was also pedestrianized, with links to walkways past the Ancient Agora, Thissio, and Kerameikos. Still, don't relax completely, even on pedestrian streets: Athens's multitude of motorcyclists seldom respect the rules, and a red traffic light or stop sign is no guarantee that vehicles will stop for pedestrians.

Wheelchair users will find Athens challenging even though the 2004 Paralympics brought some improvements. For one, the Acropolis is finally wheelchair accessible. Ramps and platforms have been added to bus stops, railway stations, and ports, while Metro stations and sports venues are wheelchair accessible. Some central Athens streets, sites, and Metro stations have special sidewalks for the visually impaired, but making the rest of the city accessible will be quite a task. For more information contact the Panhellenic Union of Paraplegic & Physically Challenged, 3-5 Dimitsanis, Moschato (tel. 210/483-2564; www.pasipka.gr).

Neighborhoods in Brief

Athens is a big city that's a collection of many different neighborhoods, each with its own distinctive flair. Here are some of the neighborhoods that await you. If you have the time, why not just stroll, get lost, and be pleasantly surprised when you discover that you're on a street where almost all of the shops sell only icons or sugared almonds (an essential gift for guests at weddings and baptisms), or where there's a little park with a bench where you can sit and watch the world go by. Don't forget to take in the Archaeological Promenade, the walkways that stretch from Hadrian's Gate past the Acropolis on Dionissiou Areopagitou to the Ancient Agora, past Thissio and on to the Kerameikos.

Central Athens

Commercial Center: The commercial center (a bureaucratic name no one uses, and that appears on no map) lies between Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares, and includes the Plaka and Psirri districts. Certain streets are designated pedestrian-only, but consider that many motorists and almost all motorcycle riders assume that pedestrian-only regulations do not apply to them.

Omonia Square: My grandmother always used to tell me how beautiful Omonia Square used to be; a grand plateia (square) surrounded by neoclassical buildings and couples strolling along. I never got to see that. For me, Omonia was never a destination, but a place you couldn't avoid. There wasn't anything in particular to see (except some good Acropolis views); it was gritty, grungy, and not pretty, but interesting to wander through. Omonia today is in its worst shape ever. The latest redesign is a disappointment, and though the pre-Olympic cleanup got rid of the unsightly billboards, restored buildings' neoclassical facades, and paved the way for trendy hotels, the area remains gritty and attracts less desirable elements at night—it's best avoided after 9pm. The government has promised to clean up and redo the square once more, along with pedestrianizing the entire Panepistimiou Avenue. Athinas Street (or better yet, pedestrianized Aiolou—also spelled Eolou—with its charming cafes and shops) will lead you away from the grunge and into Monastiraki. For a look at grand old Athens of the 19th century, check out the beautifully restored Kotzia Square with its grand neoclassical buildings including the Athens City Hall designed in 1874 and the National Bank of Greece Cultural Center. In the middle of the square a large portion of an ancient road has been uncovered, and can be seen in a fenced-off area where several ancient tombs and small buildings are also visible. The square is even more beautiful at night when it is dramatically lit, so be sure to include it in an evening stroll. The area near the Athens Stock Exchange is now home to an Asian quarter and several Bangladeshi shops.

Athinas Street: This street links Omonia and Monastiraki squares, and has Athens's Central Market. Here you can browse fish and meat halls, buy vegetables and fruit from all over Greece, sample cheeses from distant islands, or buy a pair of shoes or sunglasses from a street vendor. Across from the markets, formerly bleak Varvakeios Square is now landscaped, has several cafes, and offers an opportunity to take a break from the frenzy of the market. Another nearby square, Klaftmonos has been redesigned and from it you can see the Neoclassical University Trilogy—another glimpse at grand and elegant 19th-century Athens.

Syntagma (Constitution) Square:The heart of Athens, Syntagma Square is the focal point of the city's political and civic life, from protest rallies to New Year's celebrations. This is also where you'll find the major banks, travel agencies, and several fine hotels, including the Grande Bretagne, the grande dame of Greek hotels. If you are not staying here, take a peek at the magnificent Beaux Arts lobby, head into Alexander's Bar for a drink (dress smartly), and take in the old-world elegance and glamour. The excellent GB restaurant on the terrace has some of the most stunning views of the city, but to enjoy the sweeping view and tempting menu you will need a reservation and lots of money. You might want to reserve a seat at the terrace bar (if it's early enough) and enjoy the view over a drink.

The central post office is at the corner of Mitropoleos. For years, the sidewalk cafes here were popular places to spend time, but with the proliferation of the fast-food joints that attract younger Athenians and bands of student travelers, you may not want to linger. That said, beautifully restored Syntagma Square, the plateia in front of the Syntagma Metro, with two cafes across from one another, is a convenient meeting point. This square is even more beautiful at night when it is brilliantly lit.

Syntagma is the home of much of governmental Athens: The handsome neoclassical building at the head of the square is the Greek Parliament building, formerly the Royal Palace. The most impressive thing about this grand building is its stone and how it changes color throughout the day: from off-white to gold to a light blush mauve before it is lit dramatically at night. During the day this is where you'll see the Changing of the Guard several times a day and may hear a band playing on Sunday around 11am. The soldiers who march in front of the Parliament building and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier often wear the evzone uniform (frilly white skirts and pom-pommed red shoes) of their ancestors who fought to gain Greece's freedom during the War of Independence (1821-28). (Be sure to spend some time in the National and Zappeion Gardens adjacent to the Parliament.) Tucked away off Stadiou Street, across the street from the National Historical Museum, you will find a cobblestone oasis known as Karitsi Square with some of downtown's funkiest eateries, galleries and multipurpose cafe/bars spilling over onto Kolokotroni Street. This is where Athens' indie heart beats. South of Syntagma Square, Monastiraki Square and the Plaka area are Athens's two main tourist destinations.

Plaka: Right below the Acropolis, Plaka is the most tourist-heavy neighborhood in the city. Its maze of narrow medieval streets twist their way through ancient sites, Byzantine churches, offbeat museums, and 19th-century homes. Restaurants and cafes line many streets of this pedestrian neighborhood that is rich in history and character and is atmospheric, romantic, and nostalgia-inducing. Feel free to lose yourself in the labyrinthine streets. Maybe you will find the tiny village within a village of Anafiotika, a Cycladic town at the base of the Acropolis.

Monastiraki: This neighborhood fringes the Agora and the Roman Forum, and the flea markets are open every day but are usually best—and most crowded—on Sunday. Many tavernas, cafes, and shops line the streets, but my favorite street by far is Adrianou, the street that links Monastiraki to beautifully restored Thissio, with restored houses as restaurants and cafes on one side and the Agora on the other—and Acropolis views as well.

Psirri:Between Athinas and Ermou, Psirri was once derelict and forgotten; now it's one of the city's hottest destinations after dark. Slick warehouse conversions; restored neoclassical houses; trendy restaurants, bars, cafes, tavernas, and mezedopoleia (establishments offering "small plates") with live music, clubs, and galleries side by side with some still remaining workshops and dilapidated buildings—this area comes alive in the late afternoon until the early morning hours, even though its outer pockets remain a bit gritty. Recently the neighborhood has taken a serious backseat to Gazi and is no longer the king of downtown urban chic or nightlife central as it used to be, though it still remains popular.

Back on the Archaeological Promenade (just cut across Ermou towards the Thissio Metro stop to get back on the Promenade), you will find the ancient neighborhood of Kerameikos. The little-visited ancient Athenian cemetery is peaceful and green and a delight to visit, with many stunningly beautiful classical sculptures and part of the city's ancient walls. Psirri and Kerameikos are linked by yet another restored square: Koumoundourou.

The promenade ends right after Kerameikos, and across busy Pireos Avenue is Technopolis (Art City), better known as Gazi—once an industrial area that spewed black gas fumes (thus the name Gazi, which means gas) from the foundry's smokestacks. When the factory closed in 1984, the area became an urban wasteland. But when the city of Athens bought the old foundry and turned it into a multipurpose art and exhibition center, it kick-started a revival of the neighborhood. Today the old foundry's smokestacks are illuminated in neon red, and the streets are filled with the edgiest and hippest nightlife in the city and a real downtown vibe—arts spaces, fusion restaurants, galleries, theaters, bars, cafes, and a gay "village." The revival has even spread beyond the neighborhood's borders into other long-forgotten urban areas, where closed factories are becoming the hottest clubs in town (due to their sheer size) or transformed into museums, multipurpose arts centers, and exhibition halls; this is the birthplace of 21st-century Athens.

A must-see here is the beautifully reimagined Technopolis center, which has retained much of its original industrial architecture while being converted to an arts complex for shows, festivals, and exhibitions. It also has a cafe and a courtyard used for concerts. The one permanent exhibition here is the small Maria Callas Museum.

To understand the renaissance that Gazi started, apart from the many cutting-edge multiuse spaces and sophisticated dining and nightlife options, you must see the ripple effects it has had on the neighboring areas, creating new architectural landmarks. Within walking distance of Gazi (along Pireos Ave.) you will find the School of Fine Arts and the glossy Foundation of the Hellenic World (converted from an old warehouse and featuring interactive and virtual tours of ancient Greece) with its striking ribbed dome meant to evoke a Bronze Age beehive tomb. Farther along is the Pantheon, a concert and conference hall multiplex. Then there's the Benaki Museum (called the Beautiful Red Box for reasons you will understand once you see it), which holds temporary exhibitions, film screenings, theater performances, and concerts in its internal courtyard. Farther down is the Athinais, a magnificent restoration of a former silk factory into a sophisticated arts complex. Here you will find the Museum of Ancient Cypriot Art, galleries, a concert hall, a theater and cinema. Nearby you will find the Michael Cacoyannis Foundation, a privately funded nonprofit institution founded by the acclaimed filmmaker (Stella, Zorba the Greek, The Trojan Women) that concentrates on the performing arts but also stages various exhibitions and has a wonderful cafe/restaurant on its top floor.

At night, be sure to take in the buzz of this lively neighborhood. Walk the streets and hop in and out of as many bars as you can, or join the locals as they enjoy their drinks out in the streets after bar capacity has reached its limit; the Kerameikos Metro station smack in the middle of Gazi Square is surrounded by some of the city's coolest bars and eateries and is where locals socialize (drink in hand) when the bars are full, creating a scene that can only be found in the most popular islands at the height of summer. Gazi is where Athens's modern heart beats to its own rhythm.

Back on the Archaeological Promenade, across Ermou from Psirri, is Thissio—my favorite downtown neighborhood. Right on the pedestrianized Apostolou Pavlou, Thissio with its restored neoclassical buildings, uninterrupted Acropolis views, the temple of Hephaestos, and some of the city's best places to hang out, is the place to be. It's charming and old-fashioned, modern and happening. Be sure to check out the grand National Observatory, a beautiful neoclassical mansion from the late 1800s.

Kolonaki: Forever posh, elegant, and happening, this neighborhood tucked beneath the slopes of Lycabettus Mountain has long been the favorite address of the socialites. The streets (many pedestrianized) are packed with boutiques, designer houses, art galleries, and restaurants, cafes, and cooler-than-thou night and day spots. Leof Vasiliss Sofias is one of the most imposing streets in Athens, with beautiful neoclassical mansions that have been converted into museums (a few embassies as well), thus earning the nickname the Museum Mile (aka the Embassy District). Take your time soaking up all the urban chic you can before making your way to the top of Lycabettus mountain for an extraordinary sunset with Athens laid under your feet like a sparkling map. If you walk down, you'll pass through some of central Athens's nicest and greenest streets winding around Likavitos's lower slopes.

If you're in Kolonaki on a Saturday, don't miss the beautiful people and the wannabes promenading up and down the streets, thronging in front of favorite boutiques to ogle the latest fashions, and collapsing at street cafes to revive their spirits with cool drinks. There are more shoe stores per inch in Kolonaki than almost anywhere else in Greece.

Kolonaki gradually merges to the northwest with the university area, which is spread loosely between the 19th-century university buildings (the Neoclassical University Complex, or Trilogy) on Panepistimiou and the Polytechnic some 10 blocks to the northwest. Many publishers have their offices around here, and bibliophiles may enjoy the window displays of everything from children's books about Hercules to mathematical texts.

A few blocks from the Polytechnic—where countless students were killed in 1973 during a protest against the ruling junta—and near the excellent National Archaeological Museum, is Exarchia. Long before Gazi, this was the closest thing Athens had to an "alternative" neighborhood, ironically, next to the posh Kolonaki. This bohemian neighborhood—covering 50 city blocks—is a lively area to spend a few hours in, with excellent tavernas on a buzzing square and pedestrian streets, great lounges and bars, plus the city's finest rock clubs and live music venues. If you have the time, explore Streffi Hill, a little-visited area, green and lovely, which offers incredible views of the city and the Acropolis all the way to the Saronic Gulf once you reach its top. Across busy Leoforos Alexandras is central Athens's largest park, Pedion Areos.

Koukaki & Makrigianni: Once the working-class counterpart to Kolonaki, Koukaki has been thoroughly gentrified and is one of Athens's most desirable neighborhoods. The district lies at the base of Lofos Filopappou (Filopappos Hill), also known as the Lofos Mousseon (Hill of the Muses). A number of pleasant paths lead from streets at the base of Filopappos up through its pine-clad slopes, some ending at the Dora Stratou Theater or the observatory. Buses and trolleys run along Veikou, the main road through Koukaki, home to unpretentious cafes and restaurants as well as reasonably priced hotels. The arrival of the metro and the tram have made the area even more desirable for locals and tourists alike.

Makrigianni, the upscale neighborhood just north of Koukaki, at the southern base of the Acropolis, got a new lease on life with the arrival of the Archaeological Promenade, the Acropolis Museum, the Metro, the pedestrianization of Makrigianni street and its close proximity to the Plaka. You will also find several smaller museums, a few luxurious hotels, many wonderfully restored mansions and several good restaurants, including the popular Strofi and Socrates's Prison (also known as the Samaria). Stay here if you want to be centrally located, but a bit out of the tourist maelstrom.

Pangrati & Mets: Surrounding the reconstructed Athens Stadium known to the Greeks as Kallimarmaro (Beautiful Marble), where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, you will find two lovely, lively residential areas with excellent dining and nightlife options. To the south of the stadium is the steep, beautiful street of Markou Mousourou, shaded by flowering trees, lined with neoclassical houses, and filled with the scent of jasmine and bougainvillea. Mets is a taste of old Athens, full of pre-World War II houses with tiled roofs and courtyards. It's one of the most beautiful neighborhoods to explore in the city, and the nightlife isn't bad either. To the south of the stadium is Pangrati, a residential area popular with those who can't afford Kolonaki.

If you enjoy baroque funerary monuments, don't miss the First Cemetery, where anybody who was anybody in 19th- and 20th-century Greece is buried among the tall cypress trees and exceptional century-old marble statues. Be sure not to miss the splendid Koimomeni (Sleeping Girl), considered by many to be a masterpiece by Ianoulis Halepas, a sculptor from Tinos, who battled mental illness most of his adult life and died in poverty during World War II. If you prefer your green spaces without tombs, explore Pangrati's green park, almost a miniforest in the heart of Athens. There are also lots of restaurants (the excellent Spondi for starters) and many charming traditional tavernas scattered in Pangrati.

The Embassy District: Leoforos Vas. Sofias (Queen Sophia Blvd.) runs from Syntagma Square toward Athens's fashionable northeastern suburb of Kifissia. If you walk along Vas. Sofias and explore the side streets that run uphill into Kolonaki, you'll notice the national flags on elegant office buildings and town houses. This Embassy District stretches past the Hilton, where many embassy workers head for lunch or drinks after work—you should consider doing the same at least once for lunch or dinner at the excellent Milos seafood restaurant, or for a drink at around sunset on the rooftop's bar Galaxy with its great views of the city. The Embassy District is also known as the Museum Mile for the excellent museums found here just downhill from Kolonaki: The Benaki Museum, the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine Museum, the National War Museum, and the National Gallery.

The Northeast Suburbs

Much of Athens' expansion is to the northeast, in the valley between the mountains of Penteli to the east and Parnitha to the west. Going north on Leoforos Kifissias, you will pass by Kolonaki, Ambelokipi (with its many first-rate bar/restaurants such as Vlassis, Baraonda, 48, and Balthazar), popular Panormou Street (since the arrival of the Metro) and Neo Psihiko (with many first rate cafes, lounges, tea houses and restaurants), and you will find yourself in Marousi and Kifissia.

Marousi is home to Santiago Calatrava's Athens Olympics Sports Complex, the elegant, soaring modernist complex that stole the show during the 2004 Olympics and the stadiums that became the architectural landmarks of the new city; beautiful glass and steel arches over the main stadium; a velodrome; the Athens Tennis Academy in a landscaped park lined with glass-covered walkways; and a steel arched agora.

The last stop on line 1 is elegant Kifissia. Cooler than downtown Athens, thanks to its elevation, Kifissia was fashionable enough for the royal family to have a villa here. Here you'll find 19th-century neoclassical mansions, outrageous 21st-century ones, graceful tree-lined streets, excellent shopping options, lovely parks, two good museums (the Goulandris Museum of Natural History and the Gaia Center), and trendy hotels such as the must-be-seen Semiramis and Life Gallery. Add these to countless bars, lounges, and clubs—and the open-air cinema dating from 1919—and you'll discover that Kifissia is a delight to spend some time in (if you've already spent some time in central Athens).

Piraeus (Pireas)

The main port of Athens, Piraeus is a city very much in its own right—although even locals have trouble telling precisely where Athens ends and Piraeus begins. Piraeus prides itself on being rough and tough—a stronghold of communism, the home of rembetika (traditional Greek "blues" music, born out of the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1922). This is where you come to catch a boat to the islands from the main harbor (Megas Limani or Great Harbor), or from Zea Marina, also called Pasalimani. Mikrolimano (Little Harbor), also called Turkolimano (Turkish Harbor), is a picturesque harbor with eateries and cafes by the marina. Zea Marina also has countless cafes by the harbor and a bustling shopping center. Nearby is the pretty neighborhood of Kastella, with its neoclassical mansions and unbeatable views of the Saronic Gulf.

The Southern Suburbs (Coastal Athens)

The coastal avenue Leoforos Poseidonos begins where Syngrou ends—right by the sea. Easily accessible from downtown Athens via the tram (up to Voula) and farther via bus, this is where Athenians love to hang out and party during the hot summer months. Coastal Athens begins at the Metro line 1 stop Faliro and the tram stop SEF (Stadium of Peace and Friendship). Nearby, the yacht marina of Flisvos (at tram stop Trocadero) is a delight for strolling, with stores, restaurants, cafes, lounges, and bars where you can sit near the water and gaze at the gleaming yachts. There is also a lovely open-air cinema right by the surf. This is the marina where the battleship Averoff, which played a decisive role in the Balkan Wars, is berthed and operates as a museum. The coast is also home to the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (SNFCC), which will some day feature the National Library of Greece, the Greek National Opera, and the Greek National Ballet School, all designed by acclaimed architect Renzo Piano, and all clustered in the same spot.

As you continue down Leoforos Poseidonos, you'll find beaches (which consistently score high on the E.U.'s Blue Flag list of clean beaches), boardwalks, esplanades, marinas, multiplexes, and open-air megaclubs. First-rate restaurants (Matsuhisa Athens, Ithaki) along with excellent shopping on pedestrian Angelou Metaxa in Glyfada and top hotels (such as the Astir Palace, the Divani Athens Spa and Thalassio Centre, the Margi, and Grand Beach Lagonissi), and many sports facilities and watersports options make the coast a fashionable and fun scene. Even if you're on a tight schedule try to at least have dinner or drinks in the city's most romantic venue: Island.

Getting There

By Plane

The Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos (tel. 210/353-0000; www.aia.gr), 27km (17 miles) northeast of Athens at Spata, is usually called "Venizelos" or "Spata," after the nearest town. Venizelos is a large, modern facility, with ample restrooms, interesting shops, and acceptable restaurants, but it is a serious slog from Athens; you no longer have the option of heading back into the city for a few extra hours of sightseeing if your flight is delayed, as visitors once did from the old airport. The airport has plenty to keep you busy, including a small museum with ruins found during the airport's construction and rotating art exhibits. Also, an Info-Point is available with excellent city brochures and guides, plus digital (iPads and flatscreen) tours of the city.

Here is a basic introduction to Athens's airport, based on information updated at press time.

Arrivals -- Most flights arrive at the main terminal, which has both an "A" and "B" area, but some flights -- including most charter flights -- arrive and depart from Spata's first of a projected cluster of satellite terminals. In addition, you may deplane down a steep flight of stairs onto the tarmac, where a bus will take you to the terminal. When planning what carry-on luggage to bring, remember that it can be quite a trek from your arrival point to the baggage claim area and Customs hall.

The baggage claim area has ATMs, telephones, restrooms, and luggage carts. Luggage carts cost 1€; if you see a cart attendant, he or she can make change for you. You can also use one of several free telephones in the baggage claim area to call for a porter.

If your suitcases do not greet you in the baggage claim area, proceed to a "baggage tracing" desk.

Signs in the baggage claim area indicate which route to use for Customs. Citizens of Common Market countries (EEC) do not have to go through Passport Control; citizens of non-EEC countries, such as the U.S. and Canada, must go through Passport Control.

If you are being met, you may want to rendezvous at the clearly marked Meeting Point (across from the Greek National Tourism Organization desk) between exits 2 and 3 in the main terminal Arrivals Hall.

The Pacific baggage storage (left luggage) facility is in the main terminal arrivals area; this service is officially open 24 hours a day and charges 2€ per piece per day.

Exits from the main terminal are signposted for taxi and bus connections into Athens.

Departures -- If you are taking a taxi to the airport, ask the desk clerk at your hotel to reserve the car for you well in advance of your departure. Many taxis refuse to go to the airport, fearing that they will have a long wait before they get a return fare. Allow a minimum of an hour for the ride plus 2 hours for check-in for an international flight. Or, you can hop on Metro line 3 at Syntagma or Monastiraki, or take line 1 at Monastiraki and switch at Nerantziotissa for the suburban railroad.

For information on bus service to the airport from Syntagma, Ethniki Amyna, and Piraeus, see above under "Arrivals." For precise details on where to catch the airport bus from Athens to the airport, check with your hotel, the Greek National Tourism Organization, or -- if you are very well organized and not too tired! -- at an information desk when you arrive at the airport.

The flight information screens should indicate where you check in and what departure gate to go to. Make sure that the information on your boarding pass agrees with the information on the flight information screen. There have been frequent complaints that adequate information on arrivals, departures, cancellations, delays, and gate changes is not always posted. Nonetheless, it is important to check these screens and ask at the information desks, as there are no flight announcements.

Last-minute changes in your departure gate are not unknown; arrive at your gate as early as possible. Your best chance of finding out about a change is at the original gate.

Luggage -- If you plan to travel by air in Greece or elsewhere in Europe, keep in mind that the luggage allowance for most flights within Greece and Europe is 20 kilos (44 lb.). This is much less than most international weight allowances from the U.S. or Canada.

Connecting Flights -- The airport authority advises you to allow a minimum of 45 minutes to make a flight connection; this should be adequate if you arrive and depart from the main terminal and do not have to clear Customs. Allow at least an hour (1 1/2 hr. is even better) if you have to clear Customs or if you arrive or depart from the satellite terminal. At present, many charter flights use the satellite terminal.

Airport Facilities -- The airport has about 35 shops, ranging from chic boutiques to Travel Value to duty-free shops. There are 10 restaurants and cafes, including a food village with seven food "hubs" in the main departure lounge. A McDonald's overlooking the runways perches on the upper level of the main terminal building. As with airports around the world, both food and goods are overpriced, although the prices of books, newspapers, and magazines are reasonable.

Duty-free shops have different regulations for Intra-Schengen and Extra-Schengen passengers. In short, Intra-Schengen refers to flights within the EEC; Extra-Schengen refers to flights outside the EEC. If you are flying from Athens to a country outside the EEC, you may find it worthwhile to check out the duty-free prices on perfumes and spirits.

The Greek National Tourism Organization (abbreviated GNTO in English-speaking countries and EOT in Greece) has an information desk in the Arrivals Hall.

Hertz, Avis, and Alamo rental cars are available at the airport. Note: All these companies levy a steep surcharge (at least 10%) if you pick up your car at the airport rather than at their in-town offices.

Both short-term (3€ per hr.) and long-term (12€ per day) parking is available at the airport. Much of the long-term parking is a serious walk from the main terminal. If you have the proper change (unlikely), you can use a machine to pay for your ticket; otherwise, join the queue at the payment booth.

Useful telephone numbers at Athens International Airport include: Information tel. 210/353-0000; Customs tel. 210/353-2014; Police tel. 210/663-5140; and First Aid tel. 166 (from airport courtesy phones and information desks) and tel. 210/353-9408 (from pay phones).

Traveling between the Airport and Piraeus (Pireas) -- The suburban railroad takes 50 minutes to reach the port of Piraeus- it is the best option. Taking the Metro from the airport to Piraeus (1 hr.) requires a change at Monastiraki, so this is not recommended if you have a lot of luggage. The taxi flat rate from the airport to Piraeus is 35€ (5am-midnight) and 50€ (midnight-5am). It's important to know that boats to the islands leave from several different Piraeus harbors. Most ferryboats and hydrofoils (Flying Dolphins) for Aegina leave from the Main Harbor. Hydrofoils for other islands leave from Marina Zea, a vigorous half-hour walk from the Main Harbor. If you don't know which harbor your boat is departing from, tell your taxi driver your final destination and he can probably find out which harbor and even which pier you are leaving from.

In theory, buses leave the airport for Piraeus every hour (5€). The bus usually leaves passengers in Karaiskaki Square, several blocks from the harbor. The official daily schedule is as follows: Spata-Piraeus (E96): Every 20 minutes from 5am to 7pm; every 30 minutes from 7pm to 8:30pm; every 40 minutes from 8:30pm to 5am.

Airline Offices -- Some international carriers still have ticket offices in or near Syntagma Square, but many have moved to other areas in the city. Double-check the location of your airline's Athens office before you leave, as these offices can move without warning. Air Canada is at 10 Ziridi, Marousi (tel. 210/617-5321-3206). American Airlines is at 15 Panepistimiou (tel. 210/331-1045 or 210/331-1046). British Airways is at 1 Themistokleous, at 130 Leoforos Vouliagmenis, Glyfada (tel. 210/890-6666). Delta Air Lines is at 4 Othonos (tel. 800/4412-9506). Lufthansa Airlines is at 10 Ziridi, Marousi (tel. 210/617-5244). Qantas Airways inquiries are handled by British Airways (tel. 801/115-6000). Turkish Airlines is at 19 Filellinon (tel. 210/324-6024).

Olympic Air (tel.210/355-0500; www.olympic.gr) and Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com) -- the nation's top carriers -- both have their hubs in Athens International Airport. Aegean Airlines's headquarters is at 31 Viltanioti, Kifissia (tel. 210/626-1700).

Boat-to-Plane Connections -- A word about making air connections after an island trip: It is unwise -- even foolhardy -- to allow anything less than 24 hours between your return to Piraeus by island boat and your departure by air, as rough seas can significantly delay the trip.

By Car

If you arrive by car from Corinth (to the southwest), the signs into Athens will direct you fairly clearly to Omonia Square, which you will enter from the west along Ayiou Konstantinou. In Omonia, signs should direct you on toward Syntagma Square and other points in central Athens (signs in Omonia disappear mysteriously). If you arrive from Thessaloniki (to the north), the signs pointing you into central Athens are few and far between. It is not a good idea to attempt this for the first time after dark. If this happens, your best bet is to look for the Acropolis and head toward it until you pick up signs for Omonia or Syntagma squares.

By Bus

Before you start out on any bus trip, check with the tourist police (tel. 210/171) or the Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT) office (tel. 210/870-0000; www.visitgreece.gr) for current schedules and fares. As the Metro continues to open new stations, bus routes and fares are always changing. It's best to double-check all routes and to be prepared for fare increases. If possible, get someone to write down the name and address of your bus station in Greek; this will be a great help when you take a taxi or bus. Keep in mind that many buses run both with and without a "0" prefix (024 and 24, for example).

There are two main stations for KTEL (www.ktel.org), the national bus company. Terminal A, 100 Kifissou (tel. 210/512-9233), off the road out of Athens toward Corinth, handles buses to and from the Peloponnese and parts of Northern Greece. A taxi here from Syntagma Square should cost 8€ to 16€; if traffic is light, the journey is less than 20 minutes, but it can take an hour. If you don't have much to carry, take public bus no. 051 to the terminal (1.20€). It leaves from the corner of Zinonos and Menandrou, several blocks off Omonia Square; you can catch the same bus at the terminal for the trip into town.

Terminal B (tel. 210/831-7096) handles buses to and from Central Greece (including Delphi, Thebes, Evvia, and Meteora) and some destinations to the north and east of Athens. The GNTO, for reasons known best to itself, lists the address for Terminal B as 260 Liossion; this is where the bus for the terminal stops. To get to the terminal itself after you get off the bus, turn right onto Yousiou and you will see the terminal at the end of the street. Bus no. 024, which stops at Leoforos Amalias in front of the entrance to the National Gardens (a block south of Syntagma Sq.), will take you to and from the terminal for 1.20€. If you take this bus, tell the driver you want to get off at the bus terminal and then head right to Yousiou to reach the terminal. The Mavromateon terminal at Patission and Alexandras, a few hundred meters north of the Archaeological Museum, handles buses for most destinations in Attica.

By Train

Trains from the south and west, including Eurail (www.eurail.com) connections via Patras, arrive at the Peloponnese station (Stathmos Peloponnisou; tel. 210/513-1601), about a mile northwest of Omonia Square on Sidirodromeon. Trains from the north arrive at Larissa station (Stathmos Larissis; tel. 210/529-8837), just across the tracks from the Peloponnese station on Deligianni. The Larissa station has both an exchange office (daily 8am-9:15pm) and luggage storage (daily 6:30am-9pm).

To get to the train stations, you can take the Metro to Larissa (line 2), close to both stations. A taxi from the center of town should cost about 10€. The Metro runs from Omonia, Syntagma, and Koukaki to the Larissa Metro station, which is near the train stations. The most central place to catch the Metro is the stop in front of the Parliament building on Syntagma Square.

You can purchase train tickets just before your journey at the train station (running the risk that all seats may be sold); at the Omonia Square ticket office, 1 Karolou (tel. 210/524-0647); at 17 Filellinon, off Syntagma Square (tel. 210/323-6747); or from most travel agents. Information (in theory in English) on timetables is available by dialing tel. 145 or 147.

By Boat

Piraeus, the main harbor of Athens's main seaport, 11km (7 miles) southwest of central Athens, is a 15-minute Metro ride from Monastiraki, Omonia, and Thissio Metro stations. The subway runs from about 5am to midnight and costs 1.40€. The far slower bus no. 040 runs from Piraeus to central Athens (with a stop at Filellinon, off Syntagma Sq.) every 15 minutes between 5am and 1am and hourly from 1am to 5am for 1.20€. To get to Athens International Airport, you can take the X96 bus (5€), the Suburban Railroad (8 €) or the metro which will require a change at Monastiraki station to line 3 (8 €).

You may prefer to take a taxi to avoid what can be a long hike from your boat to the bus stop or subway terminal. Be prepared for serious bargaining. The normal fare on the meter from Piraeus to Syntagma should be about 15€ to 20€, but many drivers offer a flat fare, which can be as much as 30€. Pay it if you're desperate; or walk to a nearby street, hail another taxi, and insist that the meter be turned on.

If you arrive at Piraeus by hydrofoil (Flying Dolphin), you'll probably arrive at Zea Marina harbor, about a dozen blocks south across the peninsula from the main harbor. Even our Greek friends admit that getting a taxi from Zea Marina into Athens can involve a wait of an hour or more -- and that drivers usually drive hard (and exorbitant) bargains. To avoid both the wait and big fare, you can walk up the hill from the hydrofoil station and catch bus no. 905 for 1.20€, which connects Zea to the Piraeus Metro (subway) station, where you can complete your journey into Athens. You must buy a ticket at the small stand near the bus stop or at a newsstand before boarding the bus. Warning: If you arrive late at night, you may not be able to do this, as both the newsstand and the ticket stand may be closed.

If you've disembarked at the port of Rafina (about an hour's bus ride east of Athens), you'll see a bus stop up the hill from the ferryboat pier. Inquire about the bus to Athens; it runs often and will take you within the hour to the Areos Park bus terminal, 29 Mavromateon, near the junction of Leoforos Alexandras and Patission. The Areos Park terminal is 1 block from the Victoria Square Metro stop and about 25 minutes by trolley from Syntagma Square. From the bus terminal, there are buses to Rafina every half-hour.

The port of Lavrion (tel. 22920/25-249), 52km (32 miles) southeast of Athens, has taken over some of the itineraries from the port of Piraeus, including daily ferries and speedboats to Agios Efstratios, Alexandroupoli, Andros, Folegandros, Ios, Katapola, Kavala, Kea, Kythnos, Limnos, Milos, Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Sikinos, Siros, and Tinos. The port's official website, www.oll.gr, is in Greek only, so check the GNTO site for more info. A taxi to Lavrio port from downtown Athens has a flat rate of 38€ (5am-midnight) and 55€ (midnight-5am). You can also get to the port by bus: Use the express lines of the interurban buses (KTEL) "Koropi station-Porto Rafti/Avlaki" or the urban buses of the area to reach the port. The price of the ticket is 5€. Also, there is a bus that can transfer you from the following Metro and suburban railway stations directly to the port: Pallini, Kantza, and Koropi.