Archaeologists from the nearby British and American Schools of Classical Studies, who are accustomed to steep walks to mountaintop ancient sites, think nothing of the climb up to Rhodia, on Aristipou, which is about as high up as streets go on Kolonaki. The exertion is worth it. Kolonaki residents who live nearby also come, as do many other Athenians, for traditional dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) in egg lemon sauce, eggplant salad, and fresh fish and chops. The house wine is excellent, the small garden is ideally pleasant, as is the 19th century house the Rhodia occupies. When you're at the Rhodia, you're experiencing Athens at its best. It only accepts cash.