What a great place! All the good down- home dishes are delivered with up-to-date-tweaks (the egg lemon sauce is fantastic) and top-notch presentation. Nothing is fussy, but everything looks as good as it tastes—and you can usually choose your appetizers from a large platter that a waiter carries. In fact, the starters are so good that it's tempting to make a meal from them alone; the fried eggplant strips and zucchini croquettes are unusually light and flavorsome, and the spicy cheese dip is unusually hot for Greece. Do not be surprised if you are the only non-Greek here. Greeks call this kind of food paradisiako (traditional), but paradisiacal is just as good a description. Tip: Take a taxi; it's a long walk from the Megaro Mousikis Metro; Meandrou (also given as Maiandrou) Street is not easy to find and Vlassis (in a small apartment building) is not terribly obvious from the street. If you wish, stroll back home along Vas. Sofias; if not, the restaurant staff will summon a taxi for you. Reservations are recommended.