Planning a trip to Australia

Getting There

By Plane

Australia is a very long haul from anywhere except New Zealand. Sydney is a nearly 15-hour nonstop flight from Los Angeles, longer if you come via Honolulu. From the East Coast of the U.S., add 5 1/2 hours. If you’re coming from the States via Auckland, add transit time in New Zealand plus another three hours for the Auckland–Sydney leg. If you are coming from the United Kingdom, brace yourself for a flight of 12 hours, more or less, from London to Asia; then possibly a long day in transit, because flights to Australia have a habit of arriving in Asia early in the morning and departing around midnight; and finally, the 8- to 9-hour flight to Australia.

Sydney (SYD), Cairns (CNS), Melbourne (MEL), and Brisbane (BNE) are all international gateways. Sydney is the major entry point into Australia, but you may also fly through another port first, depending where you’re coming from.

By Boat

Sydney Harbour is Australia’s main port for cruise ships and the only port in Australia with two dedicated cruise-passenger terminals—the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Circular Quay (in the heart of the city, close to major tourist attractions) and the recently opened White Bay Cruise Terminal in the suburb of Rozelle, about 5 km from the city center. Melbourne and Brisbane are also major ports.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world

January

Sydney Festival: Highlights of Sydney’s visual and performing-arts festival are free jazz or classical music concerts held outdoors on two Saturday nights near the Royal Botanic Gardens. (Take a picnic and arrive by 4pm to get a spot on the grass.) The festival involves about 100 events featuring 1,000 artists at 20 venues. Call tel. 02/8248 6500 or go to www.sydneyfestival.org.au. Three weeks from early January.

The Australian Open: The Asia/Pacific Grand Slam is played every year at the Melbourne Park National Tennis Centre. Tickets go on sale in October through Ticketek (tel. 1300/888 104 in Australia or 02/8736 2711; www.ticketek.com.au). For more information check out www.australianopen.com. Last 2 weeks of January.

Australia Day: Australia’s answer to the Fourth of July marks the landing of the First Fleet of convicts at Sydney Cove in 1788. Every town puts on some kind of celebration; in Sydney, there are ferry races and tall ships on the harbor, food and wine stalls in Hyde Park, open days at museums and other attractions, and fireworks in the evening. www.australiaday.com.au. January 26.

February

Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras: A month of events, culminating in a spectacular parade of costumed dancers and decorated floats, watched by several hundred thousand onlookers. Contact Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras (tel. 02/9383 0900; www.mardigras.org.au).

March

Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix, Melbourne: The first Grand Prix of the year, on the international FIA Formula 1 World Championship circuit, is battled out on one of its fastest circuits, in Melbourne. For tickets, contact Ticketek (tel. 13 19 31 in Australia), or order online at www.grandprix.com.au. Four days in the second week of March.

April

Anzac Day, nationwide: April 25 is Australia’s national day of mourning for servicemen and women who have died in wars and conflict. Commemorative services are held even in the smallest towns, some at dawn and some later, with major cities holding street parades for returned servicemen and women. Huge crowds turn out. Details of all services in Australia can be found at www.dva.gov.au/anzac.

Melbourne International Comedy Festival: Venues all over the city participate in this festival of laughs, which attracts top Australian and international talent. (tel. 1300/660 013; www.comedyfestival.com.au). First 3 weeks in April.

June

Sydney Film Festival: World and Australian premieres of Aussie and international movies take place in the State Theatre and other venues over 12 days. Contact the Sydney Film Festival (tel. 02/9690 5333; www.sff.org.au). First and second week in June.

July

Melbourne International Film Festival: About 350 films—new releases, shorts, and avant-garde movies—from 50 countries play at venues around the city during this annual festival (tel. 03/9662 3722; www.miff.com.au). Late July through early August.

August

Henley-on-Todd Regatta, Alice Springs: Sounds sophisticated, doesn’t it? It’s actually a harum-scarum race down the dry bed of the Todd River in homemade “boats,” made from anything you care to name—an old four-wheel-drive chassis, say, or beer cans lashed together. The only rule is the vessel has to look vaguely like a boat. Contact the organizers at tel. 0418/897 027 (mobile phone) or www.henleyontodd.com.au. Third Saturday in August.

September

Melbourne Fringe Festival: During the  Fringe Festival (tel. 03/9660 9600; www.melbournefringe.com.au), the city’s streets, pubs, theaters, and restaurants play host to everyone from jugglers and fire-eaters to musicians and independent productions covering all art forms. Three weeks in late September/early October.

Brisbane Festival: A highlight of this arts festival (tel. 03/9660 9600; www.brisbanefestival.com.au) is Riverfire, a spectacular pyrotechnics display best seen from the riverbank. The festival program includes music, theatre, dance, comedy, opera, circus and much more. Three weeks in September.

November

Melbourne Cup, Flemington: They say the entire nation stops to watch this horse race. That’s about right. If you’re not actually at the $3.5-million race, you’re glued to the TV—or, well, you’re probably not an Australian. Women wear hats to the office, files on desks all over the country make way for a late chicken and champagne lunch, and don’t even think about flagging a cab at the 3pm race time. For tickets, contact Ticketek (tel. 132 849 in Australia; www.ticketek.com.au); for information, visit www.vrc.net.au. First Tuesday in November.

December

Sydney-to-Hobart Yacht Race: Find a cliff-top spot near the Heads to watch the glorious show of spinnakers, as 100 or so yachts leave Sydney Harbour for this grueling world-class event. The organizer is the Sydney-based Cruising Yacht Club of Australia (tel. 02/8292 7800; www.cyca.com.au). Starts December 26.

New Year’s Eve, Sydney: Watching the Sydney Harbour Bridge light up with fireworks is a treat. The main show is at 9pm, not midnight, so young kids don’t miss out. Pack a picnic and snag a Harbour-side spot by 4pm, or even earlier at the best vantage point—Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair in the Royal Botanic Gardens. December 31.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Before You Go: No vaccinations are needed to enter Australia unless you have been in a yellow fever danger zone -- that is, South America or Africa -- in the 6 days prior to entering.

Australian pharmacists may only fill prescriptions written by Australian doctors, so carry enough medication with you for your trip. Doctors are listed under "M," for "Medical Practitioners," in the yellow pages, and most large towns and cities have 24-hour clinics. Failing that, go to the local hospital emergency room.

Generally, you don't have to worry much about health issues on a trip to Australia. Hygiene standards are high, hospitals are modern, and doctors and dentists are well qualified. Because of the continent's size, you can sometimes be a long way from a hospital or a doctor. Remote areas are served by the Royal Flying Doctor Service. However, standard medical travel insurance may be advisable.

• Tropical Illnesses -- Some parts of tropical far north Queensland have sporadic outbreaks of the mosquito-borne dengue fever. The areas affected include Cairns, Port Douglas, and Townsville. But as dengue fever mosquitoes breed in urban environments, tourist activities in north Queensland such as reef and rainforest trips carry a low risk. The risk can be further minimized by staying in screened or air-conditioned accommodations, using insect repellant at all times, and wearing long, loose, light-colored clothing that covers arms and legs.

• Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Snake and spider bites may not be as common as the hair-raising stories you will hear would suggest, but it pays to be wary. Your other concerns should be marine life, including jellyfish, and saltwater crocodiles.

• Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure-- Australians have the world's highest death rate from skin cancer because of the country's intense sunlight. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip, and from 11am to 3pm in summer and 10am to 2pm in winter. Remember that UV rays reflected off walls, water, and the ground can burn you even when you're not in direct sunlight. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF 30 or higher).

  Wear a broad-brimmed hat that covers the back of your neck, ears, and face (a baseball cap won't do it), and a long-sleeved shirt. Remember that children need more protection than adults do. Don't even think about traveling without sunglasses, or you'll spend your entire vacation squinting against Australia's "diamond light."

  Cyclones sometimes affect tropical areas, such as Darwin and Queensland's coastal regions, from about Gladstone north, during January and February. In 2011, Cyclone Yasi devastated parts of coastal Queensland, including Mission Beach, but serious damage is normally rare.

Safety

Special-Interest Vacations

Adventure Trips

Australia is an adventure journey hotspot, with tours operating across the Outback and up and down the coastal fringes.

Some of the highlights for real adventurers are to be had in Tasmania, a state still covered in a significant amount of wilderness.

Roaring 40°s Ocean Kayaking, Oyster Cove Marina, Ferry Road, Kettering, Tasmania (tel. 03/6267 5000; www.roaring40skayaking.com.au), allows you to experience the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area via its waterways. Another option is to embark on one of the world's greatest adventures: rafting the untamed waters of the Franklin River (www.discovertasmania.com). This World Heritage-listed waterway carves its way through rugged and pristine rainforest wilderness. It's one of the world's best kayaking trips.

Hiring a four-wheel-drive car or campervan and "heading bush" (driving into the Outback) will make for more memorable experiences. Some of the best driving routes offering tours include:

• The Gibb River Road, Western Australia. This 700km (434 mile) route makes its way through the Kimberley region, a massive area of rugged red ranges, water holes, and remote. For more information, contact Australian Adventure Travel (tel. 1800/621 625 in Australia, or 08/9248 2355; www.safaris.net.au) or APT Kimberley Wilderness Adventure (tel. 1300/334 872 in Australia, or 03/9277 8555; www.kimberleywilderness.com.au).

• The Savannah Way, the Top End. The Savannah Way (www.savannahway.com.au) is a collection of linked outback roads and highways that link Cairns to Broome. This 3,700km (2,300-mile) route takes in 15 National Parks and five World Heritage areas. For information on tours, touch base with Oz Tours Safaris (tel. 1800/079 006 in Australia, or 07 4055 9535; www.oztours.com.au).

• Red Centre Way, the Red Centre. Another route worth exploring is the Red Centre Way from Alice Springs, which takes in Uluru, Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), and Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon). AAT Kings (tel. 1800 252 668 in Australia, or 07 4124 9943; www.aatkings.com.au) offers a variety of tours.

• Nullarbor Plain, Western Australia. Perhaps Australia's most famous Outback run though is from Adelaide to Perth, via the vast, almost treeless Nullarbor Plain. Tour operators heading out along this route include Crikey Adventure Tours (tel. 08/6201 5341; www.crikey-adventure-tours.com); and Adventure Tours (tel. 1800/068 886 in Australia, or 08 8132 8230; www.adventuretours.com.au).

Food & Wine Trips

Immigration has changed Sydney for the better in many ways, not least the food options available. As in other cosmopolitan cities around the world ethnic eateries and produce shops end up being clustered in particular areas of the city. Gourmet Safaris (tel. 02/8969 6555; www.gourmetsafaris.com.au) offers trips around Sydney to various culinary precincts. It's a very different way to get to know part of the city you may not have otherwise visited. The company also offers occasional gourmet trips around Australia.

In Melbourne, a good option is Melbourne Food Tours (tel. 0408/555 679; www.melbournefoodtours.com).

In Adleaide, Adelaide Top Food and Wine Tours (tel. 08/8386 0888; www.topfoodandwinetours.com.au) are a good bet for food tours around the city and wine tours to the local wine regions.

As for wine, we feature significant wine regions, and some of the tours that operate in those areas. Featuring more wine tourism options is the website www.winetoursdownunder.com.au.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Why don't you give something back on your vacation? Several organizations offer you the chance to do some voluntary work in Australia, such as helping to save endangered wildlife. Often there is a fee involved, to cover transportation, accommodation, meals, and so on.

If you wish to work with sick or injured native animals then you can work in a voluntary capacity at the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary (tel. 07/5526 2111; www.cws.org.au), on the Gold Coast in Queensland.

The Australian Wildlife Conservancy (tel. 08/9380 9633; www.australianwildlife.org) offers the occasional option for volunteering on animal projects, such as saving endangered bandicoots on Sydney's North Head.

Real Gap Experience (tel. 1866/939-9088 in the United States, or 44/1892 701 884 worldwide; www.realgap.com/australia-rainforest-wildlife-volunteers) offers you the chance to work in rainforests and wildlife sanctuaries.

Walking Tours

Australia is a walker's paradise, with plenty of options for the serious hiker as well as the occasional stroller. Plenty of tour companies offer you the chance to explore parts of Australia's vast Outback, national parks, and World Heritage areas with an experienced guide.

To whet your appetite, here are a few of Australia's most dramatic multi-day walking trails.

• The Larapinta Trail, Northern Territory. This 223km- (138 mile-) route winds its way from Alice Springs through the craggy West MacDonnell Ranges. It's divided into 12 1- to 2-day walks. Key attractions include Ormiston Gorge and Standley Chasm.

• The Overland Track, Tasmania. Perhaps Australia's most iconic bushwalk stretches for 75km (46 miles) through the alpine rainforests and plains of Tasmania. You stay in mountain huts along the way.

• The Heysen Trail, South Australia. This, the longest dedicated walking trail in Australia, travels for 1,200km (745 miles) through farmland, wine regions, and the Outback arid country of the Flinders Ranges.

• The Bibbulmun Track, Western Australia. This trekking route stretches for nearly 1,000km (620 miles) through the heart of the scenic southwest of Western Australia.

• The Great Ocean Walk, Victoria. This wonderful walk stretches for 91km (56 miles) via the bays, coves, and beaches of the Shipwreck Coast, while following the Great Ocean Road.

• Bay of Fires Walk, Tasmania. This dramatically named 4-day guided walk takes you through the pure-white-sand coastal wilderness of the Mount William National Park.

Tour operators offering a range of walking trips include World Expeditions (tel. 1300/720 000 in Australia, or 02 8270 8400), auswalk (tel. 03 5356 4971; www.auswalk.com.au); and Park Trek (tel. 03 9877 9540; www.parktrek.com); and Peregrine Adventures (tel. 1300 791 485 in Australia, or 03 8601 4422).

Queensland also has a series of walks worth looking into, including walks around Fraser Island, where you can see dingos in the wild. Visit www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests/great_walks for information on Great Walks of Queensland.

Something I particularly recommend if you are visiting the World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains National Park is a guided walking tour with Aboriginal Blue Mountains Walkabout tel. 0408/443 822; (www.bluemountainswalkabout.com). Plenty of tour operators show visitors the area's awe-inspiring canyons, thick rainforest, and plunging waterfalls, but this unique tour is a thought-provoking journey with an Aboriginal guide. Expect ancient art and ceremonial sites, Dreamtime stories, ochre bark and body painting, bush tucker tasting, wildlife spotting, and a bath in a crystal clear billabong.

Wellness Trips

Like elsewhere in the world, Australia's spa industry has grown tremendously over the last few years. If you like to be pampered, then head to a day spa in a luxury hotel or one of the many scattered throughout the major cities.

Spa resorts are also growing in number, with several major ones opening recently. These include The Spa at Château Élan (www.chateauelan.com.au), in the Hunter Valley, NSW, and Emirates' Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa (www.wolganvalley.com), in the Blue Mountains, NSW. To find one near you, consult Day Spa Guide (www.dayspaguide.com.au), which claims to list every day spa and spa resort in Australia.

When to Go

When it is winter in the Northern Hemisphere, Australia is basking in the Southern Hemisphere’s summer, and vice versa. Midwinter in Australia is July and August, and the hottest months are November through March. Remember, unlike in the Northern Hemisphere, the farther south you go in Australia, the colder it gets.

The Travel Seasons

Airfares to Australia are lowest from mid-April to late August—the best time to visit the Red Centre and the Great Barrier Reef.

High Season  - The peak travel season in the most popular parts of Australia is the Aussie winter. In much of the country—particularly the northern half—the most pleasant time to travel is April through September, when daytime temperatures are 66[dg]F to 88[dg]F (19[dg]C–31[dg]C) and it rarely rains. June, July, and August are the busiest months in these parts; you’ll need to book accommodations and tours well in advance, and you will pay higher rates then, too.

On the other hand, Australia’s summer is a nice time to visit the southern states, and even in winter temperatures rarely dip below freezing.

Generally, the best months to visit Australia are September and October, when it’s often still warm enough to hit the beach in the southern states, it’s cool enough to tour Uluru, and the humidity and rains have not come to Cairns (although it will be very hot by Oct).

Low Season  - October through March (summer) is just too hot, too humid, or too wet—or all three—to tour the Red Centre. North Queensland, including Cairns, suffers an intensely hot, humid wet season from November or December through March or April. So if you decide to travel at this time—and lots of people do—be prepared to take the heat, the inconvenience of potential flooding, and the slight chance of encountering cyclones.

Australian National Public Holidays

On national public holidays, services such as banking, postal needs, and purchasing of alcohol might be limited or unavailable. There also may be additional holidays as declared by individual states and territories, such as Melbourne Cup Day: Based on the country’s most famous thoroughbred horse race, Melbourne Cup Day is celebrated the first Tuesday of November, and the race is nicknamed “the race that stops the nation.”

*  New Year’s Day, January 1. Expect the usual fireworks and festivities to begin the night of December 31 to ring in the New Year.

*  Australia Day,January 26. This national day recognizes the First Fleet’s arrival in 1788, when 11 ships made their way from England to establish a colony here in Australia.

*  Good Friday, the Friday before Easter. The Christian commemoration of Jesus’crucifixion and his death. In Australia, Good Friday is observed the first Friday after the full moon (on or after Mar 21).

*  Easter Monday, day after Easter Sunday. The Christian commemoration of Jesus’resurrection from the dead.

*  Anzac Day, April 25. ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) Day recognizes those who have served the nation in times of war.

*  Christmas Day, December 25. When Christians celebrate Jesus’birth. Note:If Christmas is on a weekend day, the next Monday is termed a public holiday.

*  Boxing Day, December 26. Originally a British tradition involving gift-giving, Boxing Day is now an Australian holiday, and some sports kick off their seasons on this date. If Boxing Day falls on a Saturday, the next Monday is deemed a public holiday. If it falls on a Sunday, the next Tuesday is the holiday.

Steer Clear of the Vacation Rush

Try to avoid Australia from Boxing Day (Dec 26) to the end of January, when Aussies take their summer vacations. For popular seaside holiday spots, hotel rooms and airline seats get scarce as hen’s teeth, and it’s a rare airline or hotel that will discount full rates by even a dollar.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable travel—and its close cousin, responsible travel—are important issues in Australia, and you’ll find plenty of places that claim to be ecofriendly. So how do you find the places that will truly help you make as little impact as possible on the fragile environment, while still enjoying your holiday? When planning your trip, look for Australian tourism operators who have their tour, attraction, or accommodations accredited under Ecotourism Australia’s Eco Certification Program (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Eco Certification logo is carried by those businesses that are recognized as being tours, attractions, cruises, or accommodations that are environmentally, socially, and economically sustainable. The program assures travelers that these products are backed by a strong, well-managed commitment to sustainable practices and provide high-quality nature-based tourism experiences. The website allows you to search for companies that are accredited. Ecotourism Australia also publishes the online Green Travel Guide, which carries a list of all accredited businesses.

Like people in developed nations everywhere, Australians are becoming more and more aware of their environmental responsibilities. Recycling is common practice, with local government areas providing bins for general household refuse, for paper and glass, and for vegetative material such as prunings.

Because of frequent and prolonged droughts, people have become more aware of where their water is coming from, too, and you might be very surprised at how water conscious the average Australian is these days.

That said, what you gain on one hand, you often lose on the other. Gas-guzzling four-wheel-drives are popular, four-wheelers zip around the Outback and on some beaches, and air travel within Australia is generally necessary.

If you are keen to offset the large carbon footprint created by your flight to Australia, use public transport where you can, turn electronic gadgets off at the wall when you aren’t using them, and recycle batteries if possible. Don’t throw cigarette butts on the ground—as well as risking a possible hefty fine, your butt might end up polluting Australia’s waterways.

Resources for Responsible Travel

In addition to the resources for Australia listed previously, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

*Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravel.org) promotes ethical tourism practices.

*Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate Network (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on “carbon offsetting,” or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

*Green Hotels Association (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company’s stringent environmental requirements.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.goabroad.com/volunteer-abroad and www.idealist.org.

There are hundreds of tourism operators and hotels that use the eco-friendly banner when promoting themselves. Choose a hotel designed to reduce its environmental impact with its use of non-toxic cleaners and renewable energy sources. The hotels may be reducing their emissions further by utilizing local food, energy-efficient lighting, and eco-friendly forms of transport. Most hotels now offer you the choice of using the same towels for more than one night—and of course, you should, because laundry makes up around 40 percent of an average hotel’s energy use. Some accommodations offer you the same choice regarding your bed linens if you’re staying more than one night.

Choose tours that are eco-friendly, environmentally sustainable, and preferably employ local guides. Choose a sailing boat rather than a giant motor cruiser to discover the Barrier Reef or the Whitsunday Islands in Queensland, for example, or an Aboriginal guided walking tour above a large coach excursion.

If you are looking for a way of “giving something back’’ on your holiday, several organizations offer the opportunity to do some volunteer work in Australia, such as helping to save endangered wildlife. Often there is a fee involved, to cover transportation, accommodations, meals, and so on.

If you want to work with sick or injured native animals, then you can work in a volunteer capacity at the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary (tel. 07/5534 1266; www.cws.org.au), on the Gold Coast, just south of Brisbane in Queensland.

The Australian Wildlife Conservancy (tel. 08/9380 9633; www.australianwildlife.org) offers the occasional option for volunteering on animal projects.

Real Gap Experience (tel. 1800/985-4852 in the United States or 1300/844 270 in Australia; www.realgap.com) offers you the chance to volunteer in Australia, including in a koala sanctuary.

The various official state tourism websites, such as visitvictoria.com, visitnsw.com, and queenslandholidays.com.au, can also recommend responsible local travel companies and green hotel/lodge options. Go to “Visitor Information,” for each destination to find the appropriate visitor’s bureau.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call Australia from abroad: First dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand. Next dial Australia's country code, 61. Then dial the city code (drop the 0 from any area code given in this guide) and then the number.

To make international calls from Australia: First dial 0011 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada: 1; U.K.: 44; Ireland: 353; New Zealand: 64). Next you dial the area code and number. You may want to invest in an international online telephone card such as ekit (www.ekit.com), which will allow you to call overseas at much cheaper rates. Cards are rechargeable online.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 12455 if you're looking for a number inside Australia, and dial tel. 1225 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 12550 if you're trying to make an international call and tel. 1234 if you want to call a number in Australia.

Calling within Australia: Each Australian state has a different area code: 02 for New South Wales and the ACT; 07 for Queensland; 03 for Victoria and Tasmania; 08 for South Australia, the Northern Territory, and Western Australia. You must dial the appropriate code if calling outside the state you are in; however, you also need to use the code if you are calling outside the city you are in. For example if you are in Sydney, where the code is 02, and you want to call another New South Wales town, you still dial 02 before the number.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 1800 within Australia are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Australia is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Other numbers: Numbers starting with 13 or 1300 in Australia are charged at the local fee anywhere in Australia. Numbers beginning with 1900 (or 1901 or 1902 and so on) are pay-for-service lines, and you will be charged as much as A$5 a minute.

Pay phones: The primary telecommunications network in Australia is Telstra (www.telstra.com.au). Telstra pay phones are found in most city streets, shopping centers, transport terminals, post offices, and along highways -- even in some of the most remote areas of Australia. To find the nearest one to you, call tel. 1800/011 433 or look online at www.telstra.com.au/payphoneservices/index.htm. A local call from a pay phone can be paid by either in coins or by using a phone card. Some phones only take prepaid phone cards, which can be purchased from newsstands and other retailers in denominations of A$5, A$10, and A$20 and are good for local, national, and international calls. There are no access numbers -- you just insert the card and dial. Credit phones take most major credit cards. Some phones also allow you to send SMS messages. Pay phones can be found in the usual booths, but you may also find some inside convenience stores and the like, called "blue phones" or "gold phones."

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch U.S.A. (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 during business hours (EST) or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

In Australia, mobile phone company Vodafone (tel. 1300/300 404 in Australia; www.vodafone.com.au) has outlets at Brisbane international airport and at both international and domestic terminals in Sydney and Perth. Optus (tel. 1300/768 453 in Australia; www.optus.com.au) has a store at Melbourne airport. Charges vary depending on the kind of phone and coverage you want, but some of the benefits include one low call rate throughout Australia, free incoming calls, international direct-dialing access, text messaging and voicemail. Alternatively, you are able to rent a mobile phone or sim card for your existing mobile phone to stay in touch while you're travelling.

In Australia -- reputed to have one of the world's highest per-capita rates of ownership of "mobile" telephones, as they are known here -- the cell network is digital, not analog. Calls to or from a mobile telephone are generally more expensive than calls to or from a fixed telephone. The price varies depending on the telephone company, the time of day, the distance between caller and recipient, and the telephone's pricing plan.

Buying a prepaid phone can be economically attractive. Once you arrive in Australia, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll have a phone and a starter calling card with a significant amount of free credit.

Internet & Wi-Fi

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout Australia offer dataports for laptop modems, and some of them offer free high-speed Internet access. It's becomingly increasingly more important to know in advance whether to bring your laptop, so check the list of hotel and in room amenities in each hotel listing to see what kind of Internet service your hotels offer (if any).

Aside from cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates. Cybercafes (called Internet cafes in Australia) can be found almost everywhere. In major tourist cities, such as Cairns and Darwin, there are entire streets full of them. Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Sydney is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world, and across most of Australia, the gay community has a high profile and lots of support services. There are plenty of gay and lesbian bars, and most Saturday nights see a privately operated gay dance party taking place in an inner-city warehouse somewhere. The cafes and pubs of Oxford Street in Darlinghurst, a short cab ride or long stroll from Sydney's downtown area, are the liveliest gay spots. The annual Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras, culminating in a huge street parade and party in late February or early March, is a high point on the city's calendar.

In rural areas of Australia, you may still encounter a little conservative resistance to gays and lesbians, but Australians everywhere are generally open-minded. Noosa, on Queensland's Sunshine Coast, is a favored destination for revelers after Mardi Gras, and a couple of resorts in north Queensland cater to gay and lesbian travelers. One of the best known is Turtle Cove Resort & Spa (tel. 1300/727 979 in Australia, or 07/4059 1800; www.turtlecove.com), on a private beach between Cairns and Port Douglas.

Some services you may find useful are the Gay & Lesbian Counselling and Community Service of NSW (tel. 02/8594 9596), which runs a national hotline (tel. 1800/184 527 in Australia). Its website, www.glccs.org.au, has contact information for each state. In Sydney, the Albion Street Centre (tel. 02/9332 9600 for administration; 1800/451 600 or 02/9332 9700 for the information line) is a HIV clinic and information service.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637 in the U.S.; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. Gay & Lesbian Tourism Australia (www.galta.com.au) has listings of businesses in each state.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Everyone entering Australia needs a passport. Australia, like many countries, requires your passport to have at least 6 months left before its expiration when you apply for a visa. Here is a list of passport offices:

• Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Along with a current passport valid for the duration of your stay, the Australian government requires a visa from visitors of every nation, except New Zealand, to be issued before you arrive. If you are a short-term visitor or business traveler, the process is easy and can be done in a few minutes on the Internet using the Australian government's Electronic Travel Authority (ETA). This is an electronic visa that takes the place of a stamp in your passport. Tourists should apply for a Visitor ETA. The visa itself is free -- though there is a service charge for getting it via the Internet -- and permits unlimited visits to Australia of up to 3 months each, within a 1-year period. You can apply for an ETA yourself, or have your travel agent or airline do it when you book your plane ticket. (This service may incur an additional fee from the airline or travel agent.) To apply online, visit www.eta.immi.gov.au; the charge is payable by credit card (Amex, Diners Club, MasterCard, or Visa). European and U.K. passport holders should apply through www.ecom.immi.gov.au. You can also apply for the visa at Australian embassies, high commissions, and consulates. Children traveling on their parent's passport must have their own ETA.

If your travel agent or airline is not connected to the ETA system, you will need to apply for a visa the old-fashioned way -- by taking or mailing your passport, a completed visa application form, and the appropriate payment to your nearest Australian embassy or consulate.

In the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, and many other countries, most agents and airlines are ETA-compatible. You will also need to go the old-fashioned route if you are someone other than a tourist or a business traveler -- for example, a student studying in Australia; a businessperson staying longer than 3 months; a long-term resident; an athlete going for a competition; a member of the media on assignment; a performer; or a member of a social group or cultural exchange. If you fall into one of these categories, you will need to apply for a Temporary Residence visa. Non-ETA visa application fees for other kinds of travelers vary, from free to thousands of dollars. Contact the Australian embassy, consulate, or high commission to check the forms of payment they accept.

Apply for non-ETA visas at Australian embassies, consulates, and high commissions. In the United States, apply to the Australian Embassy, 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. 20036 (tel. 613/216-7603; www.usa.embassy.gov.au).

In Canada, contact the Australian High Commission, Suite 710, 50 O'Connor St., Ottawa, ON K1P 6L2 (tel. 613/236-1437; www.canada.embassy.gov.au).

In the United Kingdom and Ireland, contact the Australian High Commission, Australia House, The Strand, London WC2B 4LA (tel. 0906/5508 900 for 24-hr. recorded information or you can speak to an operator during normal business hours Mon-Fri; www.uk.embassy.gov.au). There is counter service Monday to Friday (call for hours).

You should obtain an application form for a non-ETA visa by post or over the Internet at the Australian Department of Immigration and Multicultural Affairs website (www.immi.gov.au). This site also has a good explanation of the ETA system. Allow at least a month for processing of non-ETA visas.

U.S., Canadian, British, and Irish citizens ages 18 to 30 may qualify for a working holiday visa that allows them to stay and work in Australia for a year (with conditions).

Customs

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Anyone over 18 can bring in up to 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of cigars or other tobacco products, 2.25 liters (41 fluid oz.) of alcohol, and "dutiable goods" to the value of A$900 or A$450 if you are under 18. "Dutiable goods" are luxury items such as perfume, watches, jewelry, furs, plus gifts of any kind. Keep this in mind if you intend to bring presents for family and friends in Australia; gifts given to you also count toward the dutiable limit. Personal goods that you're taking with you are usually exempt from duty, but if you are returning with valuable goods that you already own, file form B263. Customs officers do not collect duty -- less than A$50 -- as long as you declared the goods in the first place.

A helpful brochure, available from Australian consulates or Customs offices, as well as online, is Know Before You Go. For more information, contact the Customs Information and Support Centre (tel. 1300/363 263 in Australia, or 02/6275 6666), or check out www.customs.gov.au.

You need not declare cash in any currency, and other currency instruments, such as traveler's checks, under a value of A$10,000.

Australia is a signatory to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), which restricts or bans the import of products made from protected wildlife. Banned items include ivory, tortoise (marine turtle) shell, rhinoceros or tiger products, and sturgeon caviar. Bear this in mind if you stop in other countries en route to Australia, where souvenirs made from items like these may be sold. Australian authorities may seize these items.

Because Australia is an island, it is free of many agricultural and livestock diseases. To keep it that way, strict quarantine applies to importing plants, animals, and their products, including food. "Sniffer" dogs at airports detect these products (as well as drugs). Some items may be confiscated, and others may be held over for you to take with you when you leave the country. Amnesty trash bins are available before you reach the immigration counters in airport arrivals halls for items such as fruit. Don't be alarmed if, just before landing, the flight attendants spray the aircraft cabin (with products approved by the World Health Organization) to kill potentially disease-bearing insects. For more information on what is and is not allowed, contact the nearest Australian embassy or consulate, or Australia's Department of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Forestry, which runs the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (tel. 02/6272 3933; www.daff.gov.au/aqis). Its website has a list of restricted or banned foods, animal and plant products, and other items.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/CBP 5111; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

New Zealand Citizens: Auckland City Customhouse, 50 Anzac Ave., Auckland, (tel. 09/300-5399 or 0800/428-786 in New Zealand; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

No vaccinations are needed to enter Australia unless you have been in a yellow fever danger zone -- that is, South America or Africa -- in the 6 days prior to your arrival.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors -- often called "pensioners" in Australia -- from other countries don't always qualify for the discounted entry prices to tours, attractions, and events that Australian seniors enjoy, but it is always worth asking. Inquire about discounts when booking hotels, flights, and train or bus tickets. The best ID to bring is something that shows your date of birth or that marks you as an "official" senior, such as a membership card from AARP.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (formerly Elderhostel; tel. 800/454-5768 in the U.S.; www.roadscholar.org) arranges worldwide study programs -- including to Australia -- for those ages 55 and over.

In Australia, pick up a copy of Get Up & Go (www.getupandgo.com.au), the only national travel magazine for the over-50 crowd and the official Seniors Card travel magazine. It's a glossy quarterly, available at most newsstands and has an extensive section called "Destination Australia," which covers a region in each state/territory in every issue.

Fast Facts

ATMs/Banks -- The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a “cash machine” or a “cashpoint.” The Cirrus (www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card’s website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Australian ATMs use a four-digit code, so check with your bank and make sure you change yours before you leave. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (A$5 or more) than for domestic ones (usually A$2 or A$2.50). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Customs -- The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Anyone over 18 can bring in up to 50 cigarettes or 50 grams of cigars or other tobacco products, 2.25 liters (41 fluid oz.) of alcohol, and “dutiable goods” to the value of A$900 or A$450 if you are under 18. “Dutiable goods” are luxury items such as perfume, watches, jewelry, furs, plus gifts of any kind. Keep this in mind if you intend to bring presents for family and friends in Australia; gifts given to you also count toward the dutiable limit. Personal goods that you’re taking with you are usually exempt from duty, but if you are returning with valuable goods that you already own, file form B263. Customs officers do not collect duty—less than A$50—as long as you declared the goods in the first place.

         A helpful brochure, available from Australian consulates or Customs offices, as well as online, is Know Before You Go. For more information, contact the Customs Information and Support Centre (tel. 1300/363 263 in Australia, or 02/9313 3010), or check out www.customs.gov.au.

         You need not declare cash in any currency, and other currency instruments, such as traveler’s checks, under a value of A$10,000.

         Australia is a signatory to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), which restricts or bans the import of products made from protected wildlife. Banned items include ivory, tortoise (marine turtle) shell, rhinoceros or tiger products, and sturgeon caviar. Bear this in mind if you stop in other countries en route to Australia, where souvenirs made from items like these may be sold. Australian authorities may seize these items.

         Because Australia is an island, it is free of many agricultural and livestock diseases. To keep it that way, strict quarantine applies to importing plants, animals, and their products, including food. “Sniffer” dogs at airports detect these products (as well as drugs). Some items may be confiscated, and others may be held over for you to take with you when you leave the country. Heavy fines apply to breaches of the laws. Amnesty trash bins are available before you reach the immigration counters in airport arrivals halls for items such as fruit. Don’t be alarmed if, just before landing, the flight attendants spray the aircraft cabin (with products approved by the World Health Organization) to kill potentially disease-bearing insects. For more information on what is and is not allowed, contact the nearest Australian embassy or consulate, or Australia’s Department of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Forestry (tel. 02/6272 3933; www.daff.gov.au/biosecurity), which is in charge of biosecurity in Australia.

         For information on what you’re allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/CBP 5111; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: Border Force, Lunar House, 11th floor Long Corridor, 40 Wellesley Rd, Croydon, CR9 2BY (www.ukba.homeoffice.gov.uk).

New Zealand Citizens: Auckland City Customhouse, 50 Anzac Ave., Auckland, (tel. 09/927-8036 or 0800/428-786 in New Zealand; www.customs.govt.nz).

Disabled Travelers -- Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling to Australia. There are more options and resources than ever before. Most hotels, major stores, attractions, and public restrooms in Australia have wheelchair access. Many smaller lodges and even B&Bs are starting to cater to guests with disabilities, and some diving companies cater to scuba divers with disabilities. National parks make an effort to include wheelchair-friendly pathways. Taxi companies in bigger cities can usually supply a cab equipped for wheelchairs.

         TTY facilities are still limited largely to government services. For information on all kinds of facilities and services (not just travel-related organizations) for people with disabilities, contact National Information Communication Awareness Network, Unit 5, 48 Brookes St., Mitchell ACT 2911 (tel. 1800/806 769 voice and TTY in Australia, or 02/6241 1220; www.nican.com.au). This free service can put you in touch with accessible accommodations and attractions throughout Australia, as well as with travel agents and tour operators who understand your needs.

Doctors & Hospitals -- Doctors are listed under “M,” for “Medical Practitioners,” in the Yellow Pages, and most large towns and cities have 24-hour clinics. Your hotel may be able to help you find a local doctor. Failing that, go to the local emergency room.

Drinking Laws -- Hours vary from pub to pub, but most are open daily from around 10am or noon to 10pm or midnight. The minimum drinking age is 18. Random breath tests to catch drunk drivers are common, and drunk-driving laws are strictly enforced. Getting caught drunk behind the wheel will mean a court appearance, not just a fine. The maximum permitted blood-alcohol level is .05%. Alcohol is sold in liquor stores, in the “bottle shops” attached to every pub, and in some states in supermarkets.

Electricity -- The current is 240 volts AC, 50 hertz. Sockets take two or three flat, not rounded, prongs. Bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. North Americans and Europeans will need to buy a converter before they leave home. (Don’t wait until you get to Australia, because Australian stores are likely to stock only converters for Aussie appliances to fit American and European outlets.) Some large hotels have 110V outlets for electric shavers (or dual voltage), and some will lend converters, but don’t count on it in smaller, less expensive hotels, motels, or B&Bs. Power does not start automatically when you plug in an appliance; you need to flick the switch beside the socket to the “on” position.

Embassies & Consulates -- Most diplomatic posts are in Canberra. Canada: High Commission of Canada, Commonwealth Avenue, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6270 4000); Ireland: Consulate General of Ireland, Level 26, 1 Market St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9264 9635); New Zealand: New Zealand High Commission, Commonwealth Avenue, Canberra, ACT 2601 (tel. 02/6270 4211); United Kingdom: British High Commission, Commonwealth Avenue, Canberra, ACT 2601 (tel. 02/6270 6666); United States: United States Embassy, 21 Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214 5600).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 000 anywhere in Australia for police, ambulance, or the fire department. This is a free call from public and private telephones and needs no coins. The TTY emergency number is tel. 106.

Family Travel -- Australians travel widely with their own kids, so facilities for families, including family passes to attractions, are common.

         A great accommodations option for families is Australia’s huge stock of serviced or unserviced apartments (with or without daily maid service). Often less expensive than a hotel room, they offer a living room, a kitchen, a bathroom or two, and the privacy of a separate bedroom for adults. Most Australian hotels will arrange babysitting when given a day’s notice.

         International airlines and domestic airlines in Australia charge 75% of the adult fare for kids under 12. Most charge 10% for infants under 2 not occupying a seat. Australian transport companies, attractions, and tour operators typically charge half-price for kids under 12 or 14 years.

         Many Australian resorts have “kids’ clubs” with extensive programs designed for children under 12 and, in some cases, teenagers. Others resorts have “kids stay, eat, and play free” offers, particularly during holiday periods. Many hotels will offer connecting units or “family rooms.” Ask when booking.

         Don’t forget that children entering Australia on their parent’s passport still need their own visa.

         Resources for Family Travel: Rascals in Paradise (tel. 415/273-2224; www.rascalsinparadise.com) is a San Francisco–based company specializing in family vacation packages to Australia. The Australian travel magazine Holidays with Kids has a comprehensive website listing great options for family travel in Australia (www.holidayswithkids.com.au). Family Travel Forum is also a good resource.

Health -- No vaccinations are needed to enter Australia unless you have been in a yellow fever danger zone—that is, South America or Africa—in the 6 days prior to entering.

         Australian pharmacists may only fill prescriptions written by Australian doctors, so carry enough medication with you for your trip. Doctors are listed under “M,” for “Medical Practitioners,” in the yellow pages, and most large towns and cities have 24-hour clinics. Failing that, go to the local hospital emergency room.

         Generally, you don’t have to worry much about health issues on a trip to Australia. Hygiene standards are high, hospitals are modern, and doctors and dentists are well qualified. Because of the continent’s size, however, you can sometimes be a long way from a hospital or a doctor. Remote areas are served by the Royal Flying Doctor Service. But it may be advisable to purchase standard medical travel insurance.

   *      Tropical Illnesses -- Some parts of tropical far-north Queensland have sporadic outbreaks of the mosquito-borne dengue fever. The areas affected include Cairns, Port Douglas, and Townsville. But as dengue-fever mosquitoes breed in urban environments, tourist activities in north Queensland such as reef and rainforest trips carry a low risk. The risk can be further minimized by staying in screened or air-conditioned accommodations, using insect repellent at all times, and wearing long, loose, light-colored clothing that covers arms and legs.

   *      Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Snake and spider bites may not be as common as the hair-raising stories you will hear would suggest, but it pays to be wary. Your other concerns should be marine life, including jellyfish, and saltwater crocodiles. For more information and background on the fauna of Australia, and how to avoid dangerous encounters with them.

   *      Sun/Elements -- Australians have the world’s highest death rate from skin cancer because of the country’s intense sunlight. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip, and from 11am to 3pm in summer and 10am to 2pm in winter. Remember that UV rays reflected off walls, water, and the ground can burn you even when you’re not in direct sunlight. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF 30 or higher). Wear a broad-brimmed hat that covers the back of your neck, ears, and face (a baseball cap won’t do it), and a long-sleeved shirt. Remember that children need more protection than adults do. Don’t even think about traveling without sunglasses, or you’ll spend your entire vacation squinting against Australia’s “diamond light.”

   *      Extreme Weather Exposure -- Cyclones sometimes affect tropical areas, such as Queensland’s coastal regions, from about Gladstone north, during January and February. Serious damage is normally rare.

Insurance -- Standard medical and travel insurance is advisable for travel to Australia. Divers should also ensure they have the appropriate insurance. For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Internet Access -- Most hotels throughout Australia offer dataports for laptop modems, high-speed Internet access, and Wi-Fi. Check the list of hotel amenities in each hotel listing to see what kind of Internet service your hotel offers.

         Aside from cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you’re willing to pay exorbitant rates. Cybercafes (called Internet cafes in Australia) can be found almost everywhere. In major tourist cities there are entire streets full of them. Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercafe.com.

Legal Aid -- If you find yourself in trouble with the long arm of the law while visiting Australia, the first thing you should do is contact your country’s embassy or nearest consulate in Australia. See contact details for Canberra diplomatic posts under “Embassies & Consulates” listed previously. Embassies or consulates with posts in state capitals are listed in “Fast Facts,” in the relevant state chapters of this book. The U.S. Embassy considers an “emergency” to be either your arrest or the loss of your passport. If arrested in Australia, you will have to go through the Australian legal process for being charged, prosecuted, possibly convicted and sentenced, and for any appeals process. However, U.S. consular officers (and those of other countries) provide a wide variety of services to their citizens arrested abroad and their families. These may include providing a list of local attorneys to help you get legal representation, providing information about judicial procedures, and notifying your family and/or friends, if you wish. However, they cannot demand your release, represent you at your trial, give you legal advice, or pay your fees or fines.

LGBT Travelers -- Sydney is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world, and across most of Australia, the gay community has a high profile and lots of support services. There are plenty of gay and lesbian bars, and most Saturday nights see a privately operated gay dance party taking place in an inner-city warehouse somewhere. The cafes and pubs of Oxford Street in Darlinghurst, a short cab ride or long stroll from Sydney’s downtown area, are the liveliest gay spots. The annual Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras, culminating in a huge street parade and party in late February or early March, is a high point on the city’s calendar.

         In rural areas of Australia, you may still encounter a little conservative resistance to gays and lesbians, but Australians everywhere are generally open-minded. Noosa, on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, is a favored destination for revelers after Mardi Gras, and a couple of resorts in north Queensland cater to gay and lesbian travelers. One of the best known is Turtle Cove Beach Resort (tel. 1300/727 979 in Australia, or 07/4059 1800; www.turtlecove.com), on a private beach between Cairns and Port Douglas.

         LGBT Resources: Some services you may find useful are the Gay & Lesbian Counselling Service of NSW (tel. 02/8594 9596), which runs a national hotline (tel. 1800/184 527 in Australia) from 5:30 to 9:30pm daily. Its website, www.glcsnsw.org.au, has lots of useful information. In Sydney, the Albion Street Centre (tel. 02/9332 9600 for administration or 02/9332 9700 for the information line) is a HIV clinic and information service. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637 in the U.S.; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. Gay & Lesbian Tourism Australia (www.galta.com.au) has listings of businesses in each state.

Mail & Postage -- A postcard costs A$1.70 to send anywhere in the world. A letter (up to 50 g in weight) will cost A$1.75 to send to New Zealand, or A$2.60 to the United States, Canada, or United Kingdom. A card or letter will take 4 to 6 working days to reach North America or Europe. A parcel of up to 20 kg will cost A$13.70 to send to the United States by airmail.

Mobile Phones -- The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the United States, T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. But be sure to check the cost of “data roaming’’ on smart phones, because the cost can be astronomical, and you do not want a nasty (and I mean really nasty!) surprise on your return home when you get the bill. Unless you turn off your data roaming, it will activate automatically.

         For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch U.S.A. (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

         In Australia—reputed to have one of the world’s highest per-capita rates of ownership of “mobile” telephones, as they are known here—the cell network is digital, not analog. Calls to or from a mobile telephone are generally more expensive than calls to or from a fixed telephone. The price varies depending on the telephone company, the time of day, the distance between caller and recipient, and the telephone’s pricing plan.

         Buying a prepaid phone can be economically attractive. Once you arrive in Australia, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than A$100 for a phone and a starter calling card with a significant amount of free credit.

         In Australia, the mobile phone company Vodafone (tel. 1300/300 404 in Australia; www.vodafone.com.au) has outlets at Brisbane international airport and at both international and domestic terminals in Sydney selling SIMs, handsets, and mobile broadband. Optus (tel. 1300/768 453 in Australia; www.optus.com.au) has stores at Sydney and Melbourne airports. Charges vary depending on the kind of phone and coverage you want, but some of the benefits include one low call rate throughout Australia, free incoming calls, international direct-dialing access, text messaging, and voicemail. Alternatively, you are able to rent a mobile phone or SIM card for your existing mobile phone to stay in touch while you’re traveling.

Money & Costs -- The Australian dollar is divided into A100[ce]. Coins are A5[ce], A10[ce], A20[ce], and A50[ce] pieces (silver) and A$1 and A$2 pieces (gold). Prices often end in a variant of A1[ce] and A2[ce] (for example, A78[ce] or A$2.71), a relic from the days before 1-cent and 2-cent pieces were phased out. Prices are rounded to the nearest A5[ce]—so A77[ce] rounds down to A75[ce], and A78[ce] rounds up to A80[ce]. Bank notes come in denominations of A$5, A$10, A$20, A$50, and A$100.

         Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

         You should consider changing a small amount of money into Australian currency before you leave (though don’t expect the exchange rate to be ideal), so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs or exchange desks. You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or your bank.

         If you’re using a credit card, note that Visa and MasterCard are universally accepted in Australia; American Express and Diners Club are less common; and Discover is not used. Always carry a little cash, because many merchants will not take cards for purchases under A$10 or so.

         Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

         For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The national daily newspaper is The Australian, which publishes an expanded edition with a color magazine on Saturday. All capital cities have their own daily papers. Newspapers and magazines can be bought at a wide range of places including newsagents, supermarkets, gas stations, and convenience stores.

Packing Tips -- Dressing in layers (and packing layers) is the best way of kitting yourself out for Australia. Depending on where you are going in Australia—and the season—you will need different gear. For example, if you are visiting Queensland or central Australia in the summer, pack only light clothing (but always throw in a little something warm just in case!). But if you’re heading for Victoria in winter you’ll need full cold-weather outfits. Wherever and whenever you go, take a light rain jacket: Summer in the tropics can often be quite wet! Most restaurants in Australia accept “smart casual” dress; in the cities you will need proper shoes (no thongs/flip-flops) and often (for men) a shirt with a collar to dine in most places. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- Dial tel. 000 anywhere in Australia. This is a free call from public and private telephones and requires no coins.

Safety -- Travelers to Australia should follow the same precautions against petty theft and potential identity theft as they would at home or in any other country. Violent crime is, of course, not uncommon, but you are not likely to become a target in the normal course of your travels.

         Driving probably poses one of the greatest risks to visitors to Australia. Australians drive on the left, something that North American and European visitors often have difficulty remembering. Drivers and passengers, including taxi passengers, must wear a seatbelt at all times, by law. Avoid driving between dusk and dawn in country areas, because this is when kangaroos and other wildlife are most active, and a collision with a 'roo is something to be avoided at all costs, for both party’s sakes. Road trains—as many as three big truck carriages linked together, which can be up to 54 m (177 ft.) long—are another danger to look out for, particularly when you are in the Outback.

         Warning: If you break down or get lost, never leave your vehicle. Most people who get lost do so in Outback spots, and those who wander off to look for help or water usually die in the attempt. If it happens to you, stay with your car.

Senior Travel -- Seniors—often called “pensioners” in Australia—from other countries don’t always qualify for the discounted entry prices to tours, attractions, and events that Australian seniors enjoy, but it is always worth asking. Inquire about discounts when booking hotels, flights, and train or bus tickets. The best ID to bring is something that shows your date of birth or that marks you as an “official” senior, such as a membership card from AARP.

         Senior Resources: Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (formerly Elderhostel; tel. 800/454-5768 in the U.S.; www.roadscholar.org) arranges worldwide study programs—including to Australia—for those ages 55 and over. In Australia, pick up a copy of Get Up & Go (www.getupandgo.com.au), the only national travel magazine for the over-50 crowd and the official Seniors Card travel magazine. It’s a glossy quarterly, available at most newsstands, with an extensive section called “Destination Australia,” which covers a region in each state/territory in every issue.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in most indoor public places throughout the country, including government buildings, museums, cinemas, theaters, restaurants, and airports (and on all aircraft). In Queensland you are not allowed to smoke on a patrolled beach or near children’s playgrounds; in Victoria you may find that some pubs have outdoor (or rooftop) smoking areas. Laws vary from state to state, so the safest thing is to ask before you light up.

Student Travel -- Australia has agreements with many countries, including the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom, that give students between 18 and 30 years old the right to apply for a “working holiday” visa to stay in Australia for up to 12 months. You must apply for your visa outside of Australia, show evidence of your student or recent graduate status, and hold a return ticket as well as sufficient funds for the first part of your stay. For more information, check the website www.immi.gov.au/visitors.

         Check out the ISIC Association (www.isic.org) website for comprehensive travel-services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 16 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel, the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website (www.statravel.com) to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you’re no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC), which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Taxes -- Australia applies a 10% Goods and Services Tax (GST) on most products and services. Your international airline tickets to Australia are not taxed, nor are domestic airline tickets for travel within Australia if you bought them outside Australia. If you buy Australian airline tickets once you arrive in Australia, you will pay GST on them. Items bought in duty-free stores will not be charged GST. Nor will items you export—such as an Aboriginal painting that you buy in a gallery in Alice Springs and have shipped straight to your home outside Australia. Basic groceries are not GST-taxed, but restaurant meals are.

         Through the Tourist Refund Scheme (TRS), Australians and international visitors can claim a refund of the GST (and of a 14 1/2% wine tax called the Wine Equalisation Tax, or WET) paid on a purchase of more than A$300 from a single outlet, within the last 60 days before you leave. More than one item may be included in that A$300. For example, you can claim the GST you paid on 10 T-shirts, each worth A$30, as long as they were bought from a single store. Do this as you leave by presenting your receipt or “tax invoice” to the Australian Customs Service’s TRS booths, in the International Terminal departure areas at most airports. Items must be taken as carry-on baggage, because you must show them to Customs. You can use the goods before you leave Australia and still claim the refund, but you cannot claim a refund on things you have consumed (film you use, say, or food). You cannot claim a refund on alcohol other than wine. Claims at airports are available up to 30 minutes before your flight’s scheduled departure.

         You can also claim a refund if you leave Australia as a cruise passenger from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Hobart, or Fremantle (Perth). Claims at seaports should be made no later than 1 hour before the scheduled departure time of the ship. If your cruise departs from elsewhere in Australia, or if you are flying out from an airport other than Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Cairns, Perth, Darwin, or the Gold Coast, telephone the Australian Customs Service (tel. 1300/363 263 in Australia, or 02/9313 3010) to see if you can still claim the refund.

         Other taxes include a “reef tax,” officially dubbed the Environmental Management Charge, of A$3.50 per day for every person over the age of 4 every time he or she enters the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park on a commercial tour. This charge goes toward park upkeep, and is sometimes (but not always) included in the ticket price.

         Most airlines and an increasing number of tour operators, such as cruise companies and long-distance trains, also impose a “fuel surcharge” to help them combat rising fuel costs. This is usually added to the price of your ticket.

Tipping -- Tipping is not expected in Australia, but it is always appreciated. It is usual to tip around 10% or round up to the nearest A$10 for a substantial meal in a family restaurant. Some passengers round up to the nearest dollar in a cab, but it’s okay to insist on every bit of change back. Tipping bellboys and porters is sometimes done, but no one tips bar staff, barbers, or hairdressers.

Toilets -- Public toilets are easy to find—and free—in most Australian cities and towns. If you are driving, most towns have “restrooms” on the main street (although the cleanliness may vary wildly). In some remote areas, public toilets are “composting,” meaning there is no flush, just a drop into a pit beneath you. If you really want to plan ahead, consult the National Public Toilet Map (www.toiletmap.gov.au) (there’s an App for it as well!).

Visitor Information

Tourism Australia is the best source of information on traveling Down Under. Its website, www.australia.com, has more than 10,000 pages of listings of tour operators, hotels, car-rental companies, special travel outfitters, holidays, maps, distance charts, suggested itineraries, and much more. The site provides information tailored to travelers from your country of origin, including packages and deals. By signing up for the free e-newsletter, you will receive updates on hot deals, events, and the like on a regular basis. You can also order brochures online. Tourism Australia operates a website only, no telephone lines. Other good sources are the websites of Australia's state tourism marketing offices. They are:

• Australian Capital Tourism: www.visitcanberra.com.au.
• Northern Territory Tourist Commission: www.travelnt.com.
• South Australian Tourism Commission: www.southaustralia.com.
• Tourism New South Wales: www.visitnsw.com.au or www.sydneyaustralia.com.
• Tourism Queensland: www.queenslandholidays.com.au.
• Tourism Tasmania: www.discovertasmania.com.
• Tourism Victoria: www.visitvictoria.com.
• Western Australian Tourism Commission: www.westernaustralia.com.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling to Australia. There are more options and resources than ever before. Most hotels, major stores, attractions, and public restrooms in Australia have wheelchair access. Many smaller lodges and even B&Bs are starting to cater to guests with disabilities, and some diving companies cater to scuba divers with disabilities. National parks make an effort to include wheelchair-friendly pathways. Taxi companies in bigger cities can usually supply a cab equipped for wheelchairs.

TTY facilities are still limited largely to government services. For information on all kinds of facilities and services (not just travel-related organizations) for people with disabilities, contact National Information Communication Awareness Network, Unit 5, 48 Brookes St., Mitchell ACT 2911 (tel. 1800/806 769 voice and TTY in Australia, or 02/6241 1220; www.nican.com.au). This free service can put you in touch with accessible accommodations and attractions throughout Australia, as well as with travel agents and tour operators who understand your needs.

Tips on Accommodations

Accommodations properties in Australia carry star ratings given by AAA Tourism, which has been awarding ratings since the 1950s. This independent assessment is based on facilities, amenities, maintenance, and cleanliness. Ratings run from one to five stars. Stars are featured in AAA Tourism guides, and recent research shows 70% of travelers use the star ratings when choosing their accommodations (these star ratings are noted using asterisks). The rating scheme covers over 18,000 accommodations throughout every state and territory.

Hotels

It's a rare hotel room that does not have air-conditioning for heating and cooling, a telephone, a color TV, a clock radio, a minifridge (if not a minibar), an iron and ironing board, and self-serve coffee and tea. Private bathrooms are standard, although they often have only a shower, not a tub.

The largest hotel group in Australia is the French chain Accor, which has more than 100 properties (that's about 15,000 rooms) under its Sofitel, Novotel, Mercure, All Seasons, Ibis, and Formule 1 brands. Many other international chains, such as Marriott, Sheraton, and Hilton, have properties in Australia.

Serviced Apartments

Serviced apartments are favored by many Aussie families and business travelers. You get a fully furnished apartment with one, two, or three bedrooms, a living room, a kitchen or kitchenette, a laundry, and often two bathrooms -- in other words, all the facilities of a hotel suite and more, often for less than the cost of a four-star hotel room. (Not every apartment kitchen has a dishwasher, so check if that's important to you.) A nice two-bedroom apartment's cost can vary a night, depending on your location and the season. Australia's apartment inventory is enormous and ranges from clean and comfortable, if a little dated, to luxurious. Most apartments can be rented for 1 night, especially in cities, but in popular vacation spots, some proprietors will insist on a minimum 3-night stay, or even a week in high season.

Medina Serviced Apartments (tel. 1300/633 462 in Australia, or 02/9356 5061; www.medina.com.au) has a chain of 23 midrange to upscale properties in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Canberra, Adelaide, Perth, and Darwin. Australia's biggest apartment chain, with more than 110 properties, is Quest Serviced Apartments (tel. 1800/334 033 in Australia or 03/9645 8357; www.questapartments.com.au). It has apartments in every state and territory.

Motels & Motor Inns

Australia's plentiful motels are neat and clean, if often a little dated. You can count on them to provide air-conditioning, a telephone, a color TV, a clock radio, a minifridge or minibar, and self-serve tea and coffee. Most have only showers, not bathtubs. Some have restaurants attached, and many have swimming pools. Motor inns offer a greater range of facilities and a generally higher standard of rooms than motels.

Bed & Breakfasts

B&Bs are cheap and plentiful in Australia. It is easy to find charming rooms at a good price for a double. Bathroom facilities are often shared, although more properties now offer private, if not always en-suite (attached), bathrooms.

B&Bs can be hard to find because most travel agents don't list them (the establishments are not big enough to pay a commission). A good source is the Australian Bed & Breakfast Book (tel. 02/8208 5959; www.bbbook.com.au), which lists more than 1000 B&Bs across Australia. The individual entries are supplied by the B&B operators themselves. An older edition of the book is posted on the website for free download. In Australia you can buy the latest edition in bookshops and at newsdealers, or you can order it online for overseas airmail postage.

What Next? Productions (tel. 03/8520 6444; www.beautifulaccommodation.com) publishes a series of Beautiful Accommodation color guides, listing around 500 exquisite properties in every state and territory, many in charming country areas. Each has been checked out by the editorial team before being included in the book. The properties listed are more upscale than most. Each book can be ordered online once you are in Australia.

Another good website is that of Bed & Breakfast and Farmstay Australia (www.australianbedandbreakfast.com.au), which has links to all state B&B organizations.

Pubs

Most Aussie pubs are made for drinking, not spending the night, but many offer rooms upstairs, usually with shared bathroom facilities. Because most pubs are decades old, the rooms may be either old-fashioned or just plain old. Australians are rowdy drinkers, so sleeping above the bar can be noisy, but the saving grace is often incredibly low rates per person a night. However, a new wave of gentrified pub accommodation is seeing some lovely old hotels sprucing up their accommodation, particularly in historic pubs. For these, though, you will be paying higher rates.

Farmstays

The Aussie answer to the dude ranch is a farmstay. Australian farmstays are rarely as well set up for tourists as the dude ranch Billy Crystal's character visited in City Slickers. Most are farms first, tourist operations second, so you may have to find your own fun and know how to take care of yourself, at least to a degree.

Accommodations on farms can be anything from a basic bunkhouse (ask if it's air-conditioned, because most farms are in very hot areas) to rustically luxurious digs. Do some research on your farm -- a lot of activities are seasonal, some farmers will not allow you to get involved in dangerous work, not all will offer horseback riding, and "farm" means different things in different parts of Australia. If you like green fields and dairy cows, Victoria may be the place for you. If checking fences on a dusty 500,000-hectare (1.2-million-acre) Outback station (ranch) sounds wildly romantic, head to Western Australia, Queensland, or the Northern Territory.

The website of Bed & Breakfast and Farmstay Australia (www.australianbedandbreakfast.com.au) has links to all state farmstay organizations. Rates vary and sometimes includes breakfast. Meals are often available as an optional extra.

House-Swapping

House-swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get an authentic and personal view of the area, the opposite of the escapist retreat that many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (www.homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with more than 11,000 listings worldwide. There is a branch of HomeLink in Australia. Swap at your own risk.

Money

The Australian dollar is divided into A100¢. Coins are A5¢, A10¢, A20¢, and A50¢ pieces (silver) and A$1 and A$2 pieces (gold). Prices often end in a variant of A1¢ and A2¢ (for example, A78¢ or A$2.71), a relic from the days before 1-cent and 2-cent pieces were phased out. Prices are rounded to the nearest A5¢ -- so A77¢ rounds down to A75¢, and A78¢ rounds up to A80¢. Bank notes come in denominations of A$5, A$10, A$20, A$50, and A$100.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

You should consider changing a small amount of money into Australian currency before you leave (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal), so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs (automated teller machines). You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or your bank.

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Australian ATMs use a four-digit code, so check with your bank and make sure you change yours before you leave. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (A$5 or more) than for domestic ones (rarely more than A$2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

If you're using a credit card, note that Visa and MasterCard are universally accepted in Australia; American Express and Diners Club are less common; and Discover is not used. Always carry a little cash, because many merchants will not take cards for purchases under A$15 or so.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in Sydney (A$)

Taxi from the airport to downtown Sydney 35.00

Double room, moderate 140.00-160.00

Double room, inexpensive 100.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 45.00-50.00

Bottle of beer 4.50-6.50

Cup of coffee 3.50-4.00

1 liter of premium gas 1.35

Admission to most museums 10.00

Admission to most national parks 11.00

Tips for Student Travelers

Australia has agreements with many countries, including the U.S., Canada and the U.K. which gives students between 18 and 30 years old the right to apply for a "working holiday" visa to stay in Australia for up to 12 months. You must apply for your visa outside of Australia, show evidence of your student or recent graduate status, and hold a return ticket as well as sufficient funds for the first part of your stay. For more information, check the website www.immi.gov.au/visitors.

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel-services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 16 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel, the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website (www.statravel.com) to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 866/246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Getting Around

By Plane

Australia is a big country with a small population to support its air routes, so airfares may be higher than you are used to paying. Don’t assume there is a direct flight to your chosen destination, or that there is a flight every hour or even every day.

Most domestic air travel is operated by Qantas (tel. 800/227-4500 in the U.S. and Canada, 13 13 13 in Australia, 208/600 4300 in the U.K., 1/407 3278 in Ireland, 09/357 8900 in Auckland, 0800/808 767 in New Zealand; www.qantas.com.au), Virgin Australia (tel. 1855/253-8021 in the U.S., 13 67 89 or 07/3295 2296 in Australia, 0800/051-1281 in the U.K.; www.virginaustralia.com), or Qantas-owned Jetstar (tel. 1866/397 8170 in the U.S., 13 15 38 in Australia, or 03/9645 5999; 0800/800 995 in New Zealand; www.jetstar.com.au). Regional Express (tel. 13 17 13 or 02/6393 5550 in Australia; www.regionalexpress.com.au) serves regional New South Wales and Victoria.

Between them, Virgin Australia and Qantas and its subsidiaries, QantasLink and Jetstar, service every capital city, as well as most major regional towns on the east coast. Melbourne has two airports: the main international and domestic terminals at Tullamarine, and Avalon Airport, about 50 km (31 miles) from the city, which is used by some Jetstar flights. Make sure you check which one your flight leaves from before you book.

Low-cost carrier Tigerair (tel. 03/9034 3733 or 02/8073 3421; www.tigerairways.com) flies the all-important route between Melbourne and Sydney, as well as linking both cities with Alice Springs and Cairns. It also flies to the Queensland ports of Brisbane, Sunshine Coast, and Gold Coast, as well as other ports around the country.

Competition is hot, so it’s likely that all airlines will have added to their route networks by the time you read this.

Fares for International Travelers -- Qantas offers international travelers discounts off the full fares that Australians pay for domestic flights bought within Australia. To qualify, quote your passport number and international ticket number when reserving. Don’t assume the fare for international travelers is the best deal, though—the latest deal in the market that day (or even better, perhaps, a package deal with accommodations thrown in) may be cheaper still.

Air Passes -- If you are visiting from the United States and plan on visiting more than one city, purchasing a Qantas Walkabout AirPass is much cheaper than buying regular fares. The pass is for economy-class travel only and must be purchased along with your Qantas or American Airlines fare from the United States to Australia. Prices vary according to which “zone” you are traveling to, offering more than 60 domestic Australia city pairs to choose from, but the deals will get you to all major destinations covered in this book.

By Car

Australia’s roads sometimes leave a bit to be desired. The taxes of 21 million people get spread pretty thin when it comes to maintaining roads across a continent. Some “highways” are two-lane affairs with the occasional rut and pothole, often no outside line markings, and sometimes no shoulders to speak of. You will strike these if you plan to drive in the Red Centre.

If you plan long-distance driving, get a road map that marks paved and unpaved roads.

You can use your current driver’s license or an international driver’s permit in every state of Australia. By law, you must carry your license with you when driving. The minimum driving age is 16 or 17, depending on which state you visit, but some car-rental companies require you to be 21, or sometimes 26, if you want to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Car Rentals

Think twice about renting a car in tourist hot spots such as Cairns. In these areas most tour operators pick you up and drop you back at your hotel door, so having a car may not be worth the expense.

The “big four” car-rental companies–Avis, Budget, Hertz, and Thrifty—all have networks across Australia. Other major car-rental companies are Europcar, which has the third largest fleet in Australia, and Red Spot Car Rentals, which has depots in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns, and some other major centers.

A small sedan for zipping around a city will cost about A$45 to A$80 a day. A feistier vehicle with enough grunt to get you from state to state will cost around A$70 to A$100 a day. Rentals of a week or longer usually reduce the price by A$5 a day or so.

A regular car will get you to most places in this book, except for some parts of the Red Centre, where you will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle. All the major car-rental companies rent them. Four-wheel-drives are more expensive than a regular car, but you can get them for as little as A$75 per day if you shop around (cheaper for rentals of a week or longer).

The rates quoted here are only a guide. Many smaller local companies—and the big guys, too—offer competitive specials, especially in tourist areas with distinct off-seasons. Advance purchase rates, usually 7 to 21 days ahead, can offer significant savings.

If you are concerned about reducing your carbon emissions, consider hiring a hybrid car. In Australia, all the “big five” major car-hire companies have the hybrid Toyota Prius available. Ask when making your bookings.

Insurance -- Insurance for loss of or damage to the car and third-party property insurance are usually included, but read the agreement carefully because the fine print contains information the front-desk staff may not tell you. For example, damage to the car body may be covered, but not damage to the windshield or tires, or damage caused by water or driving too close to a bushfire.

The deductible, known as “excess” in Australia, on insurance may be as high as A$2,000 for regular cars and up to A$5,500 on four-wheel-drives and motor homes. You can reduce it, or avoid it altogether, by paying a premium of between about A$20 to A$50 per day on a car or four-wheel-drive, and around A$25 to A$50 per day on a motor home. The amount of the excess reduction premium depends on the vehicle type and the extent of reduction you choose. Your rental company may bundle personal accident insurance and baggage insurance into this premium. And again, check the conditions; some excess reduction payments do not reduce excesses on single-vehicle accidents, for example.

     Insurance Alerts: Damage to a rental car caused by an animal (hitting a kangaroo, for instance) may not be covered by your car-rental company’s insurance policies. Different car-rental companies have very different rules and restrictions, so make sure you check each one’s coverage. For example, some will not cover animal damage incurred at night, while others don’t have such limits. The same applies to the rules about driving on unpaved roads, of which Australia has many. Avis and Budget say you may only drive on roads “properly formed and constructed as a sealed, metalled, or gravel road,” while the others limit you largely to sealed roads. Check the fine print.

One-Way Rentals -- Australia’s long distances often make one-way rentals a necessity, for which car-rental companies can charge a hefty penalty amounting to hundreds of dollars. A one-way fee usually applies to motor-home rentals, too—usually around A$260 to A$360. An extra A$650 remote-location fee can apply for Outback areas such as Alice Springs. And there are minimum rental periods of between 7 and 21 days.

Motor Homes -- Motor homes (Aussies call them camper vans) are popular in Australia. Generally smaller than the RVs in the United States, they come in two-, three-, four-, or six-berth versions and usually have everything you need, such as a minifridge and/or freezer (icebox in the smaller versions), microwave, gas stove, cooking and cleaning utensils, linens, and touring information, including maps and campground guides. All have showers and toilets, except some two-berthers. Most have air-conditioned driver’s cabins, but not all have air-conditioned living quarters, a necessity in most parts of the country from November through March. Four-wheel-drive campers are available, but they tend to be small, and some lack hot water, toilet, shower, and air-conditioning. Minimum driver age for motor homes is usually 21.

Australia’s biggest national motor-home-rental companies are Apollo Motorhome Holidays (tel. 1800/777 779 in Australia, or 07/3265 9200; www.apollocamper.com), Britz Campervan Rentals (tel. 1800/331 454 in Australia or 800/2008 0801 from outside Australia; www.britz.com), and Maui (tel. 800/2008 0801 from anywhere in the world, or 1300/363 800 within Australia; www.maui.com.au).

Rates vary with the seasons and your choice of vehicle. May and June are the slowest months; December and January are the busiest. It’s sometimes possible to get better rates by booking in your home country before departure. Renting for longer than 3 weeks knocks a few dollars off the daily rate. Most companies will demand a minimum 4- or 5-day rental. Give the company your itinerary before booking, because some routes may need the company’s permission.

Most local councils take a dim view of “free camping,” the practice of pulling over by the roadside to camp for the night. Instead, in most places you will have to stay in a campground—and pay for it.

On the Road

Gas -- The price of petrol (gasoline) will probably elicit a cry of dismay from Americans and a whoop of delight from Brits. Prices go up and down, but at press time you were looking at around A$1.58 a liter for unleaded petrol in Sydney, and A$1.72 a liter, or more, in the Outback. Most rental cars take unleaded gas, and motor homes run on diesel.

Driving Rules -- Australians drive on the left, which means you give way to the right. Left turns on a red light are not permitted unless a sign says so.

Roundabouts (traffic circles) are common at intersections; approach these slowly enough to stop if you have to, and give way to all traffic on the roundabout. Flash your indicator as you leave the roundabout (even if you’re going straight, because technically that’s a left turn).

The only strange driving rule is Melbourne’s requirement that drivers turn right from the left lane at certain intersections in the city center and in South Melbourne. This allows the city’s trams to carry on uninterrupted in the right lane. Pull into the left lane opposite the street you are turning into, and make the turn when the traffic light in the street you are turning into becomes green. These intersections are signposted.

The maximum permitted blood alcohol level when driving is .05%, which equals approximately two 200-milliliter (6.6-oz.) drinks in the first hour for men, one for women, and one drink per hour for both sexes after that. The police set up random breath-testing units (RBTs) in cunningly disguised and unlikely places all the time, so getting caught is easy. You will face a court appearance if you do.

The speed limit is 50 kmph (31 mph) or 60 kmph (37 mph) in urban areas, 100 kmph (62 mph) in most country areas, and sometimes 110 kmph (68 mph) on freeways. In the Northern Territory, the speed limit is set at 130 kmph (81 mph) on the Stuart, Arnhem, Barkly, and Victoria highways, while rural roads are designated 110 kmph (68 mph) unless otherwise signposted. Be warned: The Territory has a high death toll. Speed-limit signs show black numbers circled in red on a white background.

Drivers and passengers, including taxi passengers, must wear a seatbelt at all times when the vehicle is moving forward, if the car is equipped with a belt. Young children are required to sit in the rear seat in a child-safety seat or harness; car-rental companies will rent these to you, but be sure to book them. Tell the taxi company you have a child when you book a cab so that it can send a car with the right restraints.

Maps -- The maps published by the state automobile clubs listed in “Auto Clubs” will likely be free if you are a member of an affiliated auto club in your home country. None will mail them to you overseas; pick them up on arrival. Remember to bring your auto-club membership card to qualify for discounts or free maps.

Two of the biggest map publishers in Australia are HEMA Maps (tel. 07/3340 0000; www.hemamaps.com.au) and UBD Gregory’s (tel. 02/9857 3700; www.hardiegrant.com.au). Both publish an extensive range of national (including road atlases), state, regional, and city maps. HEMA has a strong list of regional maps, while UBD Gregory’s produces a complete range of street directories by city, region, or state. HEMA produces four-wheel-drive and motorbike road atlases and many regional four-wheel-drive maps—good if you plan to go off the trails. Many of its maps are also available as Apps.

Toll Roads -- Electronic “beeper” or e-tags are used on all major Australian toll roads, including Melbourne’s City Link motorways, Brisbane’s Logan and Gateway motorways, the Sydney Harbour Bridge and tunnel and all Sydney’s major tunnels and motorways. The tag is a small device attached to the front windscreen of the vehicle, which transmits signals to the toll points on the road. This deducts the toll amount from your toll account. The same e-tag can be used on all Australian toll roads. While some toll roads still have physical collection points at which you can pay the toll, others—such as Melbourne’s freeways—don’t. If you are likely to need an e-tag, your car-rental company can arrange one for you.

Road Signs -- Australians navigate by road name, not road number. The easiest way to get where you’re going is to familiarize yourself with the major towns along your route and follow the signs toward them.

Auto Clubs -- Every state and territory in Australia has its own auto club. Your auto association back home probably has a reciprocal agreement with Australian clubs, which may entitle you to free maps, accommodations guides, and emergency roadside assistance. Don’t forget to bring your membership card.

Even if you’re not a member, the clubs are a good source of advice on local traffic regulations, touring advice, road conditions, traveling in remote areas, and any other motoring questions you may have. The clubs sell maps, accommodations guides, and camping guides to nonmembers at reasonable prices. They even share a website: www.aaa.asn.au, which lists numerous regional offices.

By Train

Australia’s trains are clean, comfortable, and safe, and for the most part service standards and facilities are perfectly adequate. The rail network in Australia links Perth to Adelaide and continues on to Melbourne and north to Sydney, Brisbane, and Cairns. There’s also a line from Adelaide to Alice Springs and Darwin. Trains generally cost more than buses but are still reasonably priced.

Most long-distance trains have sleepers with big windows, air-conditioning, electric outlets, wardrobes, sinks, and fresh sheets and blankets. First-class sleepers have en suite (attached private) bathrooms, and fares often include meals. Second-class sleepers use shared shower facilities, and meals are not included. Some second-class sleepers are private cabins; on other trains you share with strangers. Single cabins are usually of broom-closet dimensions but surprisingly comfy, with their own toilet and basin. The food ranges from mediocre to pretty good. Smoking is banned on all Australian rail networks.

Different entities manage Australia’s rail routes. They include the government-owned Queensland Rail (tel. 1800 872 467 in Australia or 07/3235 7322; www.queenslandrail.com.au), which handles rail within that state and NSW TrainLink (tel. 13 22 32 in Australia or 02/4907 7501; www.nswtrainlink.info), which manages travel within New South Wales and from Sydney to south to Melbourne and north to Brisbane. Great Southern Rail’s Southern Spirit (tel. 1800 703 357 in Australia or 08/8213 4401; www.gsr.com.au) links Adelaide, Melbourne, and Brisbane seasonally, in January and February, and has a range of other fabulous Outback train journeys.

Queensland Rail operates two trains on the Brisbane-Cairns route: The Sunlander runs three times a week from Brisbane to Cairns, offering a choice of the premium, all-inclusive Queenslander Class; single-, double-, or triple-berth sleepers; or economy seats. The new high-speed Spirit of Queensland operates twice-weekly trips on the same route in less time—by about 5 hours—with business-class-style seating and “railbeds” (similar to Business Class lie-flat airline beds). All Queensland and New South Wales long-distance trains stop at most towns en route, so they’re useful for exploring the eastern states.

Rail Passes -- NSW TrainLink’s Discovery Pass gives you unlimited economy class trips on all its train and coach services in both directions between Melbourne and Brisbane (and some NSW inland cities) for up to 6 months. A 14-day pass costs A$232, a 1-month pass A$275, a 3-month pass A$298, and a 6-month pass A$420. Prices are about 10% cheaper if you buy before arriving in Australia. Backtracker passes are available only to overseas visitors holding non-Australian passports and return airline tickets.

The Queensland Explorer pass offers unlimited economy seat travel for 1 or 2 months across the Queensland Rail network, from Cairns in the north to the Gold Coast in the south, and in the Queensland outback. It costs A$299 for 1 month or A$389 for 6 months. If you only fancy the coast, the Queensland Coastal Pass allows travel between Brisbane and Cairns for A$209 for 1 month or A$289 for 2 months.

By Bus

Bus travel in Australia is as comfortable as it can be, given the nature of coach travel. Terminals are centrally located and well lit, the buses—called “coaches” Down Under—are clean and air-conditioned. You sit in adjustable seats;, videos play onboard; and drivers are polite and sometimes even point out places of interest along the way. Buses are all nonsmoking and some have restrooms. The extensive bus network will take you almost everywhere.

Australia has one national coach operator: Greyhound Australia (tel. 1300/473 946 in Australia or 07/3236 3035; www.greyhound.com.au; no relation to Greyhound in the United States). In addition to point-to-point services, Greyhound Australia also offers a limited range of tours at popular locations on its networks, including Uluru and the Great Ocean Road in Victoria.

Fares and some passes are considerably cheaper for students, backpacker cardholders, and Hostelling International/YHA members.

Bus Passes -- Bus passes are a great value. There are several kinds: hop-on-hop-off passes, mini passes, and kilometer passes. Note that even with a pass, you may still need to book the next leg of your trip 12 or 24 hours ahead as a condition of the pass; during school vacation periods, which are always busy, booking as much as a week ahead is smart.

Greyhound Australia’s Micro Passes let you travel between two destinations, with limited stops over 10 to 14 days, as long as you don’t backtrack.

Hop-on-hop-off Mini Traveller Passes are valid for 90 days and link most of the popular destinations. Travel from Melbourne to Cairns costs A$555. Mini passes can be bought for a range of destinations around Australia.

The Kilometre Pass, valid for 12 months, allows unlimited stops in any direction within the mileage you buy. Passes are available for 1,000 km (620 miles) for A$199, and then in increasing increments. A 2,000 km (1,240 miles) pass—enough to get you from Brisbane to Cairns—will cost A$439, and from there you can go up to A$2,819 for a whopping 25,000 km (15,535 miles).

Tips for Families

Australians travel widely with their own kids, so facilities for families, including family passes to attractions, are common.

A great accommodations option for families is Australia's huge stock of serviced or unserviced apartments (with or without daily maid service). Often less expensive than a hotel room, they offer a living room, a kitchen, a bathroom or two, and the privacy of a separate bedroom for adults.  Most Australian hotels will arrange babysitting when given a day's notice.

International airlines and domestic airlines in Australia charge 75% of the adult fare for kids under 12. Most charge 10% for infants under 2 not occupying a seat. Australian transport companies, attractions, and tour operators typically charge half price for kids under 12 or 14 years.

Many Australian resorts have "kids' clubs" with extensive programs designed for children under 12 and, in some cases, teenagers. The French-owned Accor chain of hotels and resorts, which is Australia's largest chain, has kids' clubs, kids' menus designed by a nutritionist (and not just the same boring fodder you get everywhere else), and other family-friendly facilities including family rooms. Other resorts, such as Hamilton Island in Queensland's Whitsunday region, have "kids stay, eat, and play free" offers, particularly during holiday periods. Many hotels will offer connecting units or "family rooms." Ask when booking.

Don't forget that children entering Australia on their parent's passport still need their own visa.

Rascals in Paradise (tel. 415/273-2224; www.rascalsinparadise.com) is a San Francisco-based company specializing in family vacation packages to Australia.

The Australian travel magazine Holidays with Kids has a comprehensive website listing great options for family travel in Australia (www.holidayswithkids.com.au).

Family Travel Forum is also a good resource; visit www.myfamilytravels.com for destinations, ideas, and more.