Planning a trip to Austria

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Unlike Germany, Austria still has a prevailing antihomosexual attitude, in spite of the large number of gay people who live there. There is still much discrimination; gay liberation has a long way to go. Vienna, however, has a large gay community with many bars and restaurants catering to this demographic. For information about gay-related activities in Vienna, visit Rainbow Online at www.gay.or.at.

In Austria, the minimum age for consensual homosexual activity is 18.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members." In Canada, contact Travel Gay Canada (tel. 416/761-5151; www.travelgaycanada.com).

When to Go

Vienna experiences its high season from April to October, with July, August, and the main festivals being the most crowded times. Bookings around Christmastime are also heavy, as many Austrians visit their capital during this festive time. Always arrive with reservations during peak seasons. During the off-season, hotel rooms are generally plentiful and less expensive, and there is less demand for tables in the more popular restaurants.

Climate -- In Austria, the temperature varies greatly depending on your location. The national average ranges from a low of 9°F (-13°C) in January to a high of 68°F (20°C) in July. However, in Vienna, the January average is 32°F (0°C); for July, it's 66°F (19°C). Snow falls in the mountainous sectors by mid-November. Road conditions in winter can be very dangerous in many parts of the country. The winter air is usually crisp and clear, with many sunny days. The winter snow cover lasts late December through March in the valleys, November through May at about 1,830m (6,004 ft.), and all year at 2,592m (8,504 ft.) or higher. The ideal times for visiting Vienna are spring through fall. Even in spring and fall, there are many mild, sunny days. By the end of July, alpine wildflowers are in full bloom.

Health & Insurance

Insurance

When traveling, any number of things could go wrong -- lost luggage, trip cancellation, a medical emergency -- so consider the following types of insurance.

Travel Insurance -- Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or medical expenses. The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home. Even if your plan does cover overseas treatment, most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront, and send you a refund only after you've returned home and filed the necessary paperwork with your insurance company. As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation is a possible scenario. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com). For general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com).

Lost Luggage Insurance -- On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your valuables are covered by your homeowner's policy and get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package. Don't buy insurance at the airport, as it's usually overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, as many valuables (including books, money, and electronics) aren't covered by airline policies.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free.

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the Department of State declaring your destination unsafe for travel. For information, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com), AIG Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Staying Healthy

You'll encounter few health problems while traveling in Austria. The tap water is generally safe to drink, the milk is pasteurized, and health services are good. Occasionally, the change in diet and water could cause some minor disturbances, so you might want to talk to your doctor.

There is no need to get any shots before visiting Austria. Just to be prepared you might pack some anti-diarrhea medications. It's not that the food or water in Austria is unhealthy; it's different and might at first cause digestive problems for those unfamiliar with it.

It's easy to get over-the-counter medicine. Fortunately, generic equivalents of common prescription drugs are available at most destinations in which you'll be traveling. It's also easy to find English-speaking doctors and to get prescriptions filled at all cities, towns, and resorts. You might experience some inconvenience, of course, if you travel in the remote hinterlands.

Common Ailments -- Some concerns might arise if you're planning strenuous activities at higher altitudes. All of us, of course, are affected by a lack of oxygen at altitudes more than 2,500m (8,202 ft.). Symptoms of altitude sickness are often a severe headache, a feeling of nausea, dizziness, loss of appetite, and lack of sleep.

In a nutshell, high altitude sickness most often occurs when you go too high too fast. The body needs time to acclimatize itself as you climb to higher regions. This is an extremely complicated subject, and if you plan to climb the highest peaks, read the study made by Princeton University at www.Princeton.edu/~oa/safety/altitude.html.

In winter, higher elevations might also cause frostbite. Wet clothes, wind chill factor, and extreme cold can cause frostbite. Some people with poor circulation, such as those who suffer from diabetes, are particularly vulnerable. Precautions are advised -- no smoking, no drinking, good food, and rest. As you proceed higher and higher, wear multiple layers of clothing, especially water-proof synthetics. Survive Outdoors Inc. has frostbite prevention advice on its website at www.surviveoutdoors.com/reference/frostbite.asp.

Snow blindness is caused by the exposure of your unprotected eyes to the ultraviolet rays of the sun. This often happens in conditions of great snow or ice, mostly at higher altitudes. It is usually prevented by wearing dark-lensed "glacier glasses," of the wraparound, side-shielded variety. Wear these glasses even if the sky is overcast, as ultraviolet rays can pass through masses of cloud formations.

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home -- Nearly all doctors in Austria speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance, and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before you depart. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435 or 404/498-1515; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards by region or country. In Canada, check Health Canada at tel. 613/957-2991 (www.hc.sc.gc.ca).

Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland.

Safety

Never leave valuables in a car, and never travel with your car unlocked. A U.S. Department of State travel advisory warns that every car (whether parked, stopped at a traffic light, or even moving) can be a potential target for armed robbery. Report the loss or theft abroad of your passport immediately to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while overseas, in addition to reporting to local police, contact the nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff, for example, can assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contacting family members or friends, and explaining how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you understand the local criminal justice process and find an attorney, if needed.

U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad, for ways to promote a trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402, or via the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov/travel/tips/safety/safety_1747.html.

Austria has a low crime rate, and violent crime is rare. However, crimes involving theft of personal property have increased in recent years. Travelers can become targets of pickpockets and purse-snatchers who operate where tourists tend to gather. Some of the most frequently reported spots include Vienna's two largest train stations, the plaza around St. Stephan's Cathedral, and the nearby pedestrian shopping areas (in Vienna's 1st District).

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

Austria is a great place to take your kids. The pleasures available for children (which most adults enjoy just as much) range from watching the magnificent Lipizzaner stallions at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna to exploring the country's many castles and dungeons.

Babysitting services are available through most hotel desks or by applying at the Tourist Information Office in the town where you're staying. Many hotels have children's game rooms and playgrounds.

Recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Staying Connected

Telephone

The country code for Austria is 43. To call Germany from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 43, then the city code, then the regular phone number. Note: The phone numbers listed in this book are to be used within Austria; when calling from abroad, omit the initial 0 in the city code.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 1611 if you're looking for a number inside Austria, and dial tel. 1613 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 0180/200-1033.

Local and long-distance calls may be placed from all post offices and from most public telephone booths, about half of which operate with phone cards, the others with coins. Phone cards are sold at post offices and newsstands in denominations of 6€ to 25€ ($9.60-$40). Rates are measured in units rather than minutes. The farther the distance, the more units are consumed. Telephone calls made through hotel switchboards can double, or even quadruple, the base charges at the post office, so be alert to this before you dial. In some instances, post offices can send faxes for you; and many hotels offer Internet access, for free or for a small charge, to their guests.

Austrian phone numbers are not standard. In some places, numbers have as few as three digits. In cities, one number may have five digits, whereas the phone next door might have nine. Austrians also often hyphenate their numbers differently. But since all the area codes are the same, these various configurations should have little effect on your phone usage once you get used to the fact that numbers vary from place to place.

Be careful dialing toll-free numbers. Many companies maintain a service line beginning with 0180. However, these lines might appear to be toll free but really aren't, costing .12€ (19¢) per minute. Other numbers that begin with 0190 carry a surcharge of 1.85€ ($3) or more per minute. Don't be misled by calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Austria. This is not a toll-free call but costs about the same as an overseas call.

To call the U.S. or Canada from Austria, dial 01, followed by the country code (1), then the area code, and then the number. Alternatively, you can dial the various telecommunication companies in the States for cheaper rates. From Austria, the access number for AT&T is tel. 0800/8880010, for MCI tel. 0800/8888000. USA Direct can be used with all telephone cards and for collect calls. The number from Austria is tel. 013/00010. Canada Direct can be used with Bell Telephone Cards and for collect calls. This number from Austria is tel. 013/00014.

If you're calling from a public pay phone in Austria, you must deposit the basic local rate.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 08 and followed by 00 are toll-free. But be careful. Numbers that begin with 08 followed by 36 carry a .35€ (55¢) surcharge per minute.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. In general reception is good. But you'll need a SIM (Subscriber Identity Module) card. This is a small chip that gives you a local phone number and plugs you into a regional network. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in western Europe.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.com/hotspot or www.t-mobile.co.uk) serves up wireless connections at coffee shops nationwide. Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (www.wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. iPass providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities in Austria, go to www.jiwire.com.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in Austria now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You'll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com and click on "Individuals Buy Now." One solid provider is i2roam (tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes are found in all large Austrian cities, especially Vienna and Salzburg. They do not tend to cluster in any particular neighborhoods, but can be found on almost every business street in large cities.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

Calendar of Events

For more information about these and other events, contact the various tourist offices throughout Austria. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year's Eve/New Year's Day. Vienna's biggest night is launched by the famed concert of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. The New Year also marks the beginning of Fasching, the famous Vienna Carnival season, which lasts through Shrove Tuesday (Mardi Gras). For tickets and information, contact the Wiener Philharmoniker, Bösendorferstrasse 12, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/5056525; www.wienerphilharmoniker.at). The concert is followed by the Imperial Ball in the Hofburg. For information and tickets, contact the Hofburg Kongresszentrum, Hofburg, Heldenplatz, A-1014 Vienna (tel. 01/5873666; www.hofburg.com).

Berg Isel Ski Jumping Competition, Innsbruck. One of the country's most daredevil ski-jump competitions kicks off the new year at a platform built for the 1964 Olympics. First week in January.

Hahnenkamm World Cup Ski Race, Kitzbühel. Since 1931, this major sporting event has drawn world-class skiers from around the globe to compete for the prestigious World Cup. Skiers compete over 2 days, but the whole town parties for a week. Tickets are available at the gate. For information, contact the Kitzbühel Tourist Office (tel. 05356/777; www.kitzbuehel.com). Mid-January.

Eistraum (Dream on Ice). During the coldest months of Austrian winter, the monumental plaza between the Town Hall and the Burgtheater is flooded and frozen; lights, loudspeakers, and a stage are hauled in, and the entire civic core is transformed into a gigantic ice-skating rink. Sedate waltz tunes accompany the skaters during the day, and DJs spin rock, funk, and reggae after the sun goes down. Around the rink, dozens of kiosks sell everything from hot chocolate and snacks to wine and beer. For information, call tel. 01/4090040, or visit www.wienereistraum.com. Last week of January to mid-March.

Mozart Week, Salzburg. This festival features opera, orchestral works, and chamber music. Get tickets at the Mozarteum, Schwarzstrasse 26, A-5024 Salzburg (tel. 0662/873154; www.mozarteum.at). Late January to early February.

February

Opera Ball. On the last Thursday of the Fasching, Vienna's high society gathers at the Wien Staatsoper for the grandest ball of the Carnival season. The evening opens with a performance by the Opera House Ballet. You don't need an invitation, but you do need to buy a ticket, which, as you might guess, isn't cheap. For information, contact the Vienna Opera House directly (tel. 01/51444-2250; www.staatsoper.at).

Ski Festival. Gaschurn, in the heart of Vorarlberg (9.6km/6 miles from Schruns), is the resort that lies closest to the downhill runs of the Silvretta-Nova subdivision of the Montafon Valley. It's the site of a 1-week ski festival sponsored by the Belgian-Austrian chocolate manufacturer Suchard. The men's and women's events are the Montafon Valley's most important ski competition. For information, contact the Vorarlberg Tourist Office (tel. 05574/425250; www.vorarlberg.cc). Late February to early March.

March

Bregenz Spring Festival. The Vienna Symphony Orchestra usually appears at these concerts, which usher in the greening of the surrounding Alps. For information, contact the Bregenz Festival, Plaz der Wiener Symphoniker 1, A-6900 Bregenz (tel. 0557/4076; www.bregenzerfestspiele.com). First 3 weeks of March.

Vienna Spring Festival. The festival has a different central theme every year, but you can always count on music by the world's greatest composers, including Mozart and Brahms, at the Konzerthaus. The booking address is Karlsplatz 6, Lothringerstrasse 20, A-1030 Vienna (tel. 01/242002; www.konzerthaus.at). Mid-March through the first week of May.

May

International Music Festival. This traditional highlight of Vienna's concert calendar features top-class international orchestras, distinguished conductors, and classical greats. You might hear Beethoven's Eroica as it was meant to be played, Mozart's Jupiter Symphony, and perhaps Bruckner's Romantic. The list of conductors and orchestras reads like a who's who of the international world of music. The venue and booking address is Wiener Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/5058190; www.musikverein-wien.at). Early May through the first 3 weeks of June.

Vienna Festival. An exciting array of operas, operettas, musicals, theater, and dances are performed. New productions of treasured classics are presented alongside avant-garde premieres, all staged by internationally prominent directors. In addition, celebrated productions from renowned European theaters offer guest performances. Anticipate such productions as Mozart's Così fan tutte, Monteverdi's Orfeo, and Offenbach's La Vie Parisienne. For bookings, contact Wiener Festwochen, Lehárgasse 11, A-1060 Vienna (tel. 01/5892222; www.festwochen.at). The second week of May until mid-June.

June

Danube Lower Austria Festival, along the Danube River, in various locations and at St. Pölten, the state capital. Dance, theater, music, art, poetry, and ecology are presented at a number of venues, including a riverboat. Mid-June to mid-July.

Midsummer Night Celebration. This celebration is held all over Austria, with bonfires and folkloric events. The liveliest observances are in the Tyrolean valley towns and in the Wachau region along the Danube in Austria. June 20.

Styriarte Graz. This grand annual cultural celebration features a different theme every year. For tickets and information, contact Styriarte Graz, Palais Attems, Sackstrasse 17, A-8010 Graz (tel. 0316/8129410; www.styriarte.com). Late June to mid-July.

Vienna Jazz Festival. This is one of the world's top jazz events, using the Vienna State Opera as its central venue. The program calls for appearances by more than 50 international and local stars. For information and bookings, contact the Verein Jazz Fest Wien, Lammgasse 12 (tel. 01/7124224; www.viennajazz.org). Late June to mid-July.

July

Vienna Summer of Music. This premier event fills the cultural calendar with concerts at City Hall, Schönbrunn Palace, and many landmark homes of great 19th-century Viennese musicians. Densely packed with musical options, the festival often features a series of different musical events on any given night. For tickets, schedules, and information, contact the Wiener Musiksommer, Laudongasse 4, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/400084722). July 1 to late August.

Festival of Early Music, Innsbruck. Everything from baroque operas to recitals featuring historical instruments characterizes this annual event. Concerts are presented at the Hofburg, the Tyroler Landestheater, and the Castle Ambras. For tickets and information, contact the Innsbruck Festival, Burggraben 3, A-6020 Innsbruck (tel. 0512571032; www.altemusik.at). Mid-July into August.

Bregenz Summer Festival. The cultural highlight of the summer is the appearance once again of the Vienna Symphony Orchestra. For information, contact the Bregenz Tourist Office, Plaz der Wiener, Symphoniker 1, A-6900 Bregenz (tel. 05574/407; www.bregenzerfestspiele.com). Mid-July to mid-August.

Salzburg Festival. Since the 1920s, this has been one of the premier cultural events of Europe, sparkling with opera, chamber music, plays, concerts, appearances by world-class artists, and many other cultural presentations. Always count on stagings of Mozart operas. Performances are held at various venues throughout the city. For tickets, write several months in advance to the Salzburg Festival, Postfach 140, A-5010 Salzburg (tel. 0662/8045500; www.salzburgfestival.at). Late July to late August.

Summer Stage, Vienna. Along the quays of the Donau Inlet, adjacent to the Friedensbrücke, midsummer is celebrated by hundreds of the young, the upwardly mobile, and the trendy who converge on the periphery of the city to enjoy the night air and one another's company. Temporary stages present everything from performance art to live music. Adding to the revelry are the 20 or so seasonal bars that open their doors to the milling summer crowd every night from 5pm to 2am. July and August.

Music Film Festival. Opera, operetta, and masterful concert performances captured on celluloid are enjoyed free under a starry sky in front of the neo-Gothic City Hall on the Ringstrasse. Programs focus on works by Franz Schubert, Johannes Brahms, or other composers. For more information, contact Ideenagentur Austria, Opernring 1R, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/40008100; www.wien-event.at). Mid-July to mid-September.

September

Haydn Days, Eisenstadt, in Burgenland. Held in Eisenstadt, where Haydn lived for 40 years, this festival presents the composer's trios, quartets, symphonies, operas, and choral works. Venues include the Esterházy castle, local churches, and even the city's public parks. For tickets and information, contact the Burgenlandische Haydn Festspiele, Schloss Esterházy, A-7000 Eisenstadt (tel. 02682/61866; www.haydnfestival.at). Early to mid-September.

International Bruckner Festival, Linz. This month-long festival features concerts, theatrical presentations, art exhibits, and fireworks. For tickets and information, contact Festspiele, Untere Donaulände 7, A-4010 Linz (tel. 0732/76122124; www.brucknerhaus.linz.at). Mid-September to early October.

October

Viennale. This film festival shows everything from the most daringly avant-garde to golden oldies of the (mostly European) silver screen. Check the program to see which films will be in English or have English subtitles. For tickets and information, contact the Wiener Festwochen Viennale, Stiftgasse 6, A-1070 Vienna (tel. 01/5265947; www.viennale.at). Throughout October.

Wien Modern, in its 22nd year in 2009, was founded by Claudio Abbado and is devoted to the performance of contemporary works in music. The emphasis is not just on Austrian composers -- it has included works from Scandinavian and Baltic countries, Iceland, Romania, Portugal, and other nations. Some of the composers make live appearances and discuss their compositions. Concerts usually last 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Performances are at Verein Wien Modern, Lothringerstrasse 20 (tel. 01/242000), but the booking phone number is (tel. 01/242002; www.konzerthaus.at). Late October to late November.

November

Vienna Schubert Festivale. This all-Schubert celebration marks its 27th annual observance in 2009. For information, contact Wiener Musikverein, Karlsplatz 6, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/5058190; www.musikverein-wien.at). Third week of November.

December

Christkindlmarkt. Look for pockets of folkloric charm (and, in some cases, kitsch) associated with the Christmas holidays. Small outdoor booths, known as Christkindlmarkt -- usually adorned with evergreen boughs, red ribbons, and, in some cases, religious symbols -- sprout up in clusters around Vienna. They're selling old-fashioned toys, Tannenbaum (Christmas tree) decorations, and gift items. Food vendors will also be nearby offering sausages, cookies and pastries, roasted chestnuts, and kartoffel (charcoal-roasted potato slices). The greatest concentrations of these open-air markets can be found in front of the Rathaus, in the Spittelberg Quarter (7th District), at Freyung, the historic square in the northwest corner of the Inner City. Late November to New Year's.

Fast Facts

American Express -- This company has agents in Vienna and Salzburg. Check its website (www.americanexpress.com) for office locations and hours.

Area Codes -- The country code for Austria is 43; the city code for Vienna is 1, if you're calling from outside the country. Within the country use 01.

Business Hours -- In the federal provinces, banking hours vary according to the region. The exchange counters at airports and railroad stations are generally open from the first to the last plane or train, usually from 8am to 8pm daily. Many stores are open 8am to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 8am to noon on Saturday; they close for 2 hours during the middle of each day.

Drinking Laws -- Upper Austria, Salzburg, and Tyrol prohibit the consumption of distilled beverages below the age of 18, while Carinthia and Styria prohibit drinks containing more than 12% or 14% of alcohol respectively in this age bracket. Carinthia additionally requires adolescents to maintain a blood alcohol level below 0.05%, while Upper Austria prohibits "excessive consumption," and Salzburg prohibits consumption that would result in a state of intoxication. Prohibitions in Vienna, Burgenland, Lower Austria, and Vorarlberg apply only to alcohol consumption in public. Enforcement in supermarkets is quite strict, while in restaurants and bars enforcement is quite lax especially for beer and wine.

Drug Laws -- Penalties for violations are severe and could lead to imprisonment or deportation. Selling drugs to minors is dealt with particularly harshly.

Drugstores -- In Austrian cities, at least one pharmacy stays open 24 hours. If a particular pharmacy is closed, a sign on the door will list the address and phone number of the nearest one that is open.

Electricity -- Austria operates on 220 volts AC (50 cycles). That means that U.S.-made appliances that don't come with a 110/220 switch will need a transformer (sometimes called a converter). Many Austrian hotels stock adapter plugs but not power transformers.

Embassies & Consulates -- The main building of the Embassy of the United States is at Boltzmanngasse 16, A-1090, Vienna (tel. 01/313390). However, the consular section is at Parkring 12, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/5125835). Lost passports, tourist emergencies, and other matters are handled by the consular section. Both the embassy and the consulate are open Monday to Friday 9 to 11:30am. Emergency services 8:30am to 5pm.

The Canadian Embassy, Laurenzerberg 2 (tel. 01/531383000), is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 3:30pm; the British Embassy, Jauresgasse 12 (tel. 01/716130), is open Monday to Friday 9:15 to 10:15am and 2 to 3pm; Australian Embassy, Mattiellistrasse 2-4 (tel. 01/506740), is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm. The nearest New Zealand Embassy is located in Berlin, Germany, Friedrichstrasse 60 (tel. 030/206210), and is open Monday to Friday 9am to noon. The Ireland Embassy, Rotenturmstrabe 16-18 (tel. 01/7154246), is open Monday through Friday 8:30 to 11am and 1 to 4pm.

Emergencies -- Emergency phone numbers throughout the country (no area code needed) are as follows: tel. 133 for the police, 144 for accident service, 122 to report a fire, and 120 to report a car breakdown on the highway.

Holidays -- Bank holidays in Austria are as follows: January 1, January 6 (Epiphany), Easter Monday, May 1, Ascension Day, Whitmonday, Corpus Christi Day, August 15, October 26 (Nationalfeiertag), November 1, December 8, and December 25 and 26. Check locally when you arrive in Austria. Some of these holidays fall on different days every year.

Internet Access -- It's hard nowadays to find a city that doesn't have a few cybercafes. Although there's no definitive directory for cybercafes -- these are independent businesses, after all -- two places to start looking are at www.cybercaptive.com and wwws.cybercafe.com.

Legal Aid -- Your embassy will give you advice if you run into trouble abroad. They can advise you of your rights and can even provide a list of attorneys (for which you'll have to pay if services are used). But they cannot interfere on your behalf in the legal process of Austria. For questions about American citizens who are arrested abroad, including ways of getting money to them, telephone the Citizens Emergency Center of the Office of Special Consulate Services in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/647-5225). Citizens of other nations should go to their Vienna-based consulate for advice.

Language -- German is the official language of Austria, but because English is taught in the high schools, it's commonly spoken throughout the country, especially in tourist regions. Certain Austrian minorities speak Slavic languages, and Hungarian is commonly spoken in Burgenland.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to call all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen. Your credit card company or insurer may also require you file a police report and provide a report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number outside the U.S. is tel. 410/581-3836; call collect. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 336/393-1111. MasterCard holders should call collect tel. 314/542-7111.

Mail -- Post offices (das postamt) in Austria are usually located in the heart of the town, village, or urban district they service. If you're unsure of your address in any particular town, correspondence can be addressed care of the local post office by labeling it either POST RESTANTE or POSTLAGERND. If you do this, it's important to clearly designate the addressee, the name of the town, and its postal code. To claim any correspondence, the addressee must present his or her passport.

As an alternative to having your mail sent post restante to post offices, you might opt for the mail services offered in Salzburg, Innsbruck, and Vienna by American Express . There's no charge for this service to anyone holding an American Express card or American Express traveler's checks.

The postal system in Austria is, for the most part, efficient and speedy. You can buy stamps at a post office or from the hundreds of news and tobacco kiosks, designated locally as Tabac/Trafik. Mailboxes are painted yellow, and older ones are emblazoned with the double-headed eagle of the Austrian Republic. Newer ones usually have the golden trumpet of the Austrian Postal Service. A blue stripe on a mailbox indicates that mail will be picked up there on a Saturday.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In major cities, you'll find the International Herald Tribune or USA Today, as well as other English-language newspapers and magazines, including the European editions of Time and Newsweek, at hotels and news kiosks.

Police -- Dial tel. 133 anywhere in Austria to summon the police.

Safety -- No particular caution is needed other than what a careful person would maintain anywhere. Austria is a very safe country in which to travel.

Smoking -- Many Austrians are heavy smokers, and unlike in the United States, smoking is not prohibited in many restaurants. If you're sensitive to smoke, ask the headwaiter to sit you in a nonsmoking section, if possible. If not, ask to be seated away from the smoke or outside on a terrace.

Taxes -- In 1993, all countries belonging to the European Union became a single market by enforcing the Single European Act and merging into a common customs and Value Added Tax (VAT) zone. VAT is a special tax applied to goods and services alike. The rates vary from country to country; in Austria the rate is 20%.

You can arrange for a refund of VAT if you can prove that the goods on which you paid tax were carried out of Austria. To get the refund, you must fill out Form U-34, which is available at most stores (a sign will read TAX-FREE SHOPPING). Get one for the ÖAMTC (Austrian Automobile and Touring Club) quick refund if you plan to get your money at the border. Check whether the store gives refunds itself or uses a service. Sales personnel will help you fill out the form and will affix the store-identification stamp. You show the VAT (MWSt) as a separate item or state that the tax is part of the total price. Keep your U-34 forms handy when you leave the country, and have them validated by the Viennese Customs officer at your point of departure.

Know in advance that you'll have to show the articles for which you're claiming a VAT refund. Because of this, it's wise to keep your purchases in a suitcase or carry-on bag that's separate from the rest of your luggage, with all the original tags and tickets, and the original receipts nearby. Don't check the item within your luggage before you process the paperwork with the Customs agent. In some instances, if your paperwork is in order, you'll receive a tax refund on the spot. If your point of departure is not equipped to issue cash on the spot, you'll have to mail the validated U-34 form or forms back to the store where you bought the merchandise after you return home. It's wise to keep a copy of each form. Within a few weeks, the store will send you a check, bank draft, or international money order covering the amount of your VAT refund. Help is available from the ÖAMTC, which has instituted methods of speeding up the refund process. Before you go, call the Austrian National Tourist Office for the ÖAMTC brochure "Tax-Free Shopping in Austria."

Telephone -- Never dial abroad from your hotel room unless it's an emergency. Place phone calls at the post office or some other location. Viennese hotels routinely add a 40% surcharge, some as much as 200%. For help dialing, contact your hotel's operator, or dial tel. 09 for placement of long-distance calls within Austria or for information about using a telephone company credit card; dial tel. 1611 for local directory assistance; tel. 1613 for European directory assistance; tel. 1614 for overseas directory assistance; and tel. 08 for help in dialing international long distance. Coin-operated phones are all over Vienna. To use one, pick up the receiver, insert a minimum of .10€ (20¢), wait for the dial tone, then dial the number. Know in advance that .10€ (20¢) will allow no more than about 2 minutes of talk time even to a number within Vienna. When your talk time is finished, a recorded German telephone announcement instructs you to put in more coins. To avoid this unwelcome interruption, most Viennese insert up to .40€ (70¢) at the beginning of their call. In theory, the phone will return whatever unused coins remain at the end of your call, although this doesn't always happen. On some older phones, you need to push a clearly designated button before the coins drop into the phone and the call is connected.

Avoid carrying lots of coins by buying a Wertkarte at tobacco/news kiosks or at post offices. Each card is electronically coded to provide 3€ ($4.80), 7€ ($11), 14€ ($22), or 35€ ($56) worth of phone calls. Buyers receive a slight discount because cards are priced slightly lower than their face value.

AT&T's USA Direct plan enables you to charge calls to your credit card or to call collect. The access number, tel. 0800/200288, is a local call all over Austria. For Sprint, dial tel. 0800/200236; for Worldcom, dial tel. 0800/200235; for British Telecom, dial tel. 0800/200209; and for Canada Direct, dial tel. 0800/200217.

The international access code for both the United States and Canada is 001, followed by the area code and the seven-digit local number.

Time -- Austria operates on central European time, which makes it 6 hours later than U.S. Eastern Standard Time. It advances its clocks 1 hour in summer, however.

Tipping -- A service charge of 10% to 15% is included on hotel and restaurant bills, but it's a good policy to leave something extra for waiters and 2€ ($3.20) per day for your hotel maid.

Railroad station, airport, and hotel porters get 1.50€ ($2.40) per piece of luggage, plus a 1€ ($1.60) tip. Your hairdresser should be tipped 10% of the bill, and the shampoo person will be thankful for a 1.50€ ($2.40) gratuity. Toilet attendants are usually given .50€ (80¢), and hat-check attendants expect .50€ to 1.50€ (80¢ to $2.40), depending on the place.

Toilets -- All airport and railway stations have restrooms, rarely with attendants. Bars, nightclubs, restaurants, cafes, and hotels have facilities as well. You'll also find public toilets near many major sights.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many Austrian hotels offer discounts for seniors. Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and older (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world, including Austria. Most courses last 2 to 4 weeks and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Visitor Information

Tourist Offices -- Contact the Austrian National Tourist Office, P.O. Box 1142, New York, NY 10108-1142 (tel. 212/944-6880; www.austria-tourism.com). In Canada, you'll find offices at 2 Bloor St. E., Suite 3330, Toronto, ON M4W 1A8 (tel. 416/967-3381). In London, contact the office at 14 Cork St., W1X 1PF (tel. 0845/101-1818).

Dispensing information for the entire country, the Austrian National Tourist Office is at Margaretenstrasse 1, A-1040 Vienna (tel. 0810/10181818). However, it cannot make reservations for you. As you travel throughout the towns and villages of Austria, you'll see signs emblazoned with a fat I (for information) in front of the local tourist office, where you can obtain maps and might even get assistance in finding a hotel if you arrive without a reservation. You might also want to ask for the free English-language booklet Art and Architecture in Austria, which lists examples and photos of Austria's most renowned architectural sites.

Websites -- To begin your exploration of Austria, check out the sites for the Austrian National Tourist Office (www.austria.info.at), Tourist-Net: Austria (www.tourist-net.co.at), Vienna Tourist Board (www.info.wien.at), and Mozart Concerts (www.mozart.co.at).

Maps -- Some of the most useful maps for touring the countryside include Michelin's Austria (no. 426) and Freytag & Berndt's Autokarte Austria. Even more detailed is Freytag & Berndt's Grosse Strassen Karten, which covers Austria in three separate breakdowns, with the enlargement of certain regions of Land Salzburg available on a fourth. Some visitors find it more convenient to buy these same four maps in the form of the 12-page atlas, Grosser Auto Atlas Österreich. It includes helpful blowups of the centers of many of the country's large- and medium-size cities.

Freytag & Berndt also publish detailed maps (in either atlas or foldaway form) of Greater Vienna. Maps of Vienna's public transport system are available from the city's tourist offices.

Hill-climbers and trekkers appreciate Freytag & Berndt's detailed topographical maps known as the Wanderkarten (W.K.). The company also publishes canoeing maps of specific regions, including the Carinthian lakes.

Most of the maps mentioned above are available in bookstores throughout Austria and in larger bookstores in the rest of Europe and North America. Freytag & Berndt's shops are at Kohlmarkt 9, in Vienna, and at Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15, in Innsbruck.

If you'd like a map before your trip to plan your itinerary, you can obtain one from Rand McNally, Michelin, or AAA. These are sold at bookstores all over America. Rand McNally also has an online store: www.randmcnally.com. The U.S. headquarters of Michelin is at P.O. Box 19008, Greenville, SC 29602 (tel. 800/423-0485). AAA (the American Automobile Association; tel. 212/757-2000 or 800/222-1134; www.aaa.com) publishes a regional map of Austria that's available free to members at most AAA offices throughout the United States.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for visitors and hosts alike.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some ecofriendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Tips on Accommodations

Austrian hotels, inns, and pensions (boardinghouses) are classified by the government into five different categories and are rated with stars. A five-star rating is deluxe, while one star designates a simple inn or hotel; there's a chance that not all rooms have private bathrooms. One-star hotels are most often clean and decent establishments where you get more value for your euro than anywhere else in the country.

Reservations are advised, especially if you're visiting in high season, which varies in different parts of the country. Summer is high season in Salzburg and Vienna, while Innsbruck enjoys a great deal of summer tourist business but is also the center of the bustling Tyrolean ski industry in winter. High season at ski resorts is usually from Christmas to mid-April; most resorts actually lower their prices in summer. Sometimes hotels offer a "shoulder" rate in spring and fall when business lessens; sometimes these hotels close if business is slow.

The local tourist office in any Austrian city or resort can assist you in making the necessary reservations. If a certain hotel is booked and cannot accept your reservation, the tourist office will be able to make an alternative reservation in a hotel of comparable price and character. Send your request via airmail and enclose an International Reply Coupon, obtainable at your local post office, for an airmail reply. Be sure to give the following information: hotel category (deluxe, first class, standard, or budget), desired location (center, edge of town, near a lake or ski lifts). Address your request to Verkehrsverein in small towns or Tourismusverband in large resorts and cities, adding the postal code, the town name, and Austria. Regional service organizations are your best bet if you want to visit several towns or resorts in one Austrian province or one of Austria's major cities. These addresses are available from the Austrian National Tourist Office abroad.

Bed & Breakfasts -- Look for the signs that say ZIMMER FREI attached to the front of a house or to a short post at the front-yard gate or driveway. This means that the proprietors rent rooms on a bed-and-breakfast basis to travelers. You'll encounter these signs along Austria's highways and along some of the most scenic byways.

Such accommodations have hot and cold running water in the bedrooms, although private bathroom and toilet facilities are rare. (There's usually a toilet on every floor and one bathroom in the house.) A continental breakfast is served.

Few homes accept advance reservations, so just stop in and inquire. When the rooms are filled, the sign is taken down or covered. The local tourist office can also help you find B&B accommodations.

You might need a few words of basic German to converse with the owner, as only a few proprietors speak English. If you're staying for only 1 night, you might be asked to pay your bill in advance, and it must be paid in euros.

Farmhouse Accommodations -- Groups or whole families can stay on a farm, renting several rooms or even a wing of the house. However, a stay of at least a week is generally required, and advance reservations through a local tourist office or regional tourist board are necessary. The correct form of address for the local offices is Verkehrsverein, then the postal code and the name of the town near which you want to stay, and Austria. Regional boards should be addressed by writing to Landesfremdenverkehrsamt, followed by the postal code and the name of the capital of the respective Austrian province, and Austria. Your reservation will be confirmed upon receipt of a deposit.

Schlosshotels (Castle Hotels) -- Graced with a rich and ornate imperial tradition, Austria poured funds and resources throughout its history into constructing palaces and castles. Many of these ancestral buildings have been transformed into hotels. Information on these hotels can be obtained through Euro-Connection, 7500 212th St. SW, Suite 103, Edmonds, WA 98026 (tel. 800/645-3876; www.euro-connection.com), which represents castle hotels throughout Europe.

Chalets, Villas & Cottages -- Many cottages, chalets, and condominiums are available for short-term rentals to qualified visitors. These rental properties are usually at or near sites of natural or historic beauty or in ski or lakeside resorts.

Pego Leasing Centre, Rathausgasse 11, A-6700 Bludenz (tel. 05552/65666; www.pego.at), inventories more than 1,000 rental properties in Austria. The company arranges rentals of 1 week to a year or more for 1 to 30 occupants at a time; rentals traditionally begin and end on a Saturday. Pego usually collects most of its fee from the owners of the rental property, but the tenant usually pays an agency fee to Pego of around 10% for each booking.

Pensions -- A pension is generally more intimate and personal than a hotel. Of course, the nature and quality of the welcome depends largely on the host or hostess, who might also be the cook and chief maid. As a general rule, a first-class pension in Austria is equal to a second-class hotel; a second-class pension is equal to a third-class hotel. Usually a continental breakfast is served; some pensions also offer dinner. Expect to be on your own for lunch.

Home Exchanges -- You can arrange a home exchange -- swapping your home with that of an Austrian family, often with a car included -- through several U.S.-based organizations. Intervac U.S. & International, P.O. Box 590504, San Francisco, CA 94159 (tel. 800/756-HOME; www.intervacus.com), publishes three catalogs a year containing listings of more than 9,000 homes in more than 36 countries. Members contact each other directly. Depending on your type of membership, fees begin at 59€ ($94).

Youth Hostels -- Austria has 108 youth hostels distributed throughout the provinces. Rates for a bed-and-breakfast run from 15€ ($24) per person daily. Some hostels lock their doors between 10pm and 6am to discourage late arrivals. Dormitories must be empty between 10am and 5pm. You must have an International Youth Hostel Federation membership card to use Austria's youth hostels, and advance reservations are recommended. In Austria, you can get information about hostels from any branch of the Austrian National Tourist Office. A detailed brochure is available. For information on finding a hostel worldwide, visit www.hostels.com.

Regions in Brief

The forests, mountains, and lowlands of the Austrian landscape were divided early in their history into nine distinctly different regions. In addition to their topographical diversities, each region has its own history, cultural identity, and -- in some cases -- oddities of language and dialect.

Vienna

Austria's capital, the former hub of a great empire, and a province in its own right, Vienna is one of Europe's most beautiful cities. Images spring to mind of imperial palaces, the angelic voices of choirboys, the Spanish Riding School, and rich cakes served in cafes. In this former seat of the once-powerful Hapsburg dynasty, you follow in the footsteps of Schubert, Strauss, Brahms, Mahler, Mozart, and Beethoven, among others. Of course, the Blue Danube (even if it's not blue) cuts through the city that controlled a great deal of Europe for more than 6 centuries until it suffered humiliating defeats in both world wars of the 20th century. After a long, dreary slumber during the postwar years, Vienna has regained its old joie de vivre and is now one of Europe's most vital capitals. Today, this economic power stands at the crossroads of eastern and western Europe.

Lower Austria

Set at Austria's northeastern corner, bordering the Czech Republic and Slovakia, this is Austria's largest province. Known for its fertile plains, renowned vineyards, and prosperous bourgeoisie, it's very different from the alpine regions of western Austria. Although the region's administrative capital is the culturally ambitious city of Sankt Pölten, most of the region directs its focus toward Vienna, which it completely surrounds. Visitors to Lower Austria typically come on a day trip from Vienna to explore the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), romanticized in operetta, literature, and the famous Strauss waltz. One of the best places to explore the Vienna Woods is Klosterneuburg, a major wine-producing center. Other places to explore include Mayerling, in the heart of the woods, and Heiligenkreuz, one of Austria's oldest Cistercian abbeys. The district's leading spa is Baden bei Wien, a lively casino town in the eastern sector of the Vienna Woods.

The other major attraction of Lower Austria is the Wachau-Danube Valley, rich in scenic splendor and castles. In the valley, you can visit the ancient town of Tulln, the early-12th-century Herzogenburg Monastery, the 1,000-year-old city of Krems, and the lovely town of Dürnstein. Melk Abbey is one of the world's finest baroque buildings.

Burgenland

The newest of the Austrian provinces was formed in 1921 from the German-speaking region of what had once been part of the Hungarian half of Austria-Hungary. Located at Austria's southeastern tip, its plains, reef-fringed lakes, and abundant bird life resemble the landscapes of Hungary. Its capital is Eisenstadt, the native city of composer Franz Josef Haydn. Largely agricultural, with an unusual demographic mixture of Hungarians, Croats, and German-speaking Austrians, Burgenland lacks the visual drama and grand alpine scenery of other parts of Austria. Lakes remain its primary attraction, and they are best visited in summer.

Salzburg

A city rich with the splendors of the baroque age and the melodies of Mozart, Salzburg is one of Europe's premier architectural gems. It's also the setting for Austria's most prestigious music festival. Its natural setting is panoramic -- hugging both banks of the Salzach River and "pinched" between two mountains, Mönchsberg and Kapuzinerberg.

Many travelers come here to follow in the footsteps of Julie Andrews in the fabled 1965 musical The Sound of Music. The von Trapps and Mozart have put Salzburg on international tourist maps.

Land Salzburg

The only area of Austria that can compare with Tyrol in outdoor activities and scenic grandeur alike is Land Salzburg, which lies at the doorstep of Salzburg. It's easy to spend weeks in this mountainous area. In summer, the greatest attraction is the Grossglockner Road, Europe's longest and most splendid highway. In winter, Zell am See is the most popular resort in the region, located on a lake against a mountain backdrop, but there are many other options to consider. Golling, in the Salzach Valley, south of Salzburg, is one of the most inviting. Visitors frequently visit the winter and summer spa resorts of Badgastein and Bad Hofgastein in the Gastein Valley. Two major ski resorts are Saalbach and Hinterglemm.

Upper Austria

Tied to the Danube's fertile plains, which straddle that famous river, this region produces much of Austria's agricultural bounty. Its capital is the historic but heavily industrialized city of Linz, famous for a raspberry-chocolate concoction known as the Linzer torte. Upper Austria doesn't offer the resorts and attractions of Tyrol, Land Salzburg, or Vorarlberg, but there's charming scenery here, especially in summer at Attersee, the largest lake in the Austrian Alps. Another major summer resort is Mondsee (Moon Lake), the warmest lake in the Salzkammergut. Also in the Salzkammergut, St. Wolfgang, one of Austria's most romantic lakes, draws visitors to its White Horse Inn, the setting for the fabled operetta of the same name. Bad Ischl, once the summer retreat of Emperor Franz Josef, is one of the country's most fashionable spas. Hallstatt is the best center for exploring the province's major attractions: the salt mines of Salt Mountain and the spectacular Dachstein Caves.

Tyrol

One of Austria's most historic and colorful provinces, this breathtaking mountainous district was once the medieval crossroads between the Teutonic world and Italy. Its capital is the beautiful city of Innsbruck, both a summer resort and a winter ski center. Filled with attractions, it's the third-most important city to visit in Austria (after Vienna and Salzburg). But the glories of the Tyrolean country hardly end in Innsbruck. The province is riddled with valleys, each filled with resorts drawing summer and winter visitors alike. These valleys include the beautiful Stubai and Wipp, where the major resorts of Fulpmes and Neustift offer vistas of glacier tops and alpine peaks.

The Upper Inn district is also worth a visit. The old market town of Imst makes a good stop along the Upper Inn. On the eastern side of the Arlberg are the resorts of St. Anton am Arlberg, an old village on the Arlberg Pass, and St. Christoph, the mountain way station of St. Anton. Seefeld is also a great ski resort, offering both summer and winter outdoor activities. In the Ziller Valley is another sophisticated resort, Zell am Ziller. The Kitzbühel Alps offer some of Austria's best skiing. If you have enough time, journey to East Tyrol to Lienz, a rich, folkloric town on the Isel River with romantic old inns and guesthouses.

Vorarlberg

Vorarlberg, located at the country's westernmost tip, shares most of its borders with the wild and mountainous eastern border of Switzerland; it's home to some of Austria's most sophisticated ski resorts, highest alpine peaks, and most beautiful scenery. Its capital is Bregenz, a pleasant town at any time of the year, although it hardly competes with the scenic grandeur of the province's resorts, such as Lech and Zürs. In winter, Lech and the even more chic and elegant Zürs, on the western side of the Arlberg, are among Europe's leading ski resorts.

The Montafon Valley, known for its powdery snow and sun, has been called a winter "ski stadium." The best places for skiing here are the hamlets of Schruns and Tschagguns. If you're here in summer, you might want to explore the Bregenz Forest (Bregenzerwald), although it's hardly the Black Forest in Germany. The northern part of the Vorarlberg alpine range is a prime place for outdoor activities. You'll want to dine and stay at Bezau. If you have time, the towns of Dornbirn, Feldkirch, and Bludenz are interesting to explore.

Carinthia

Noted for its forests, rolling hills, and hundreds of freshwater lakes, Carinthia shares most of its border with Slovenia. Although landlocked, the province has just a hint of Mediterranean flavor, which permeates its gardens, lakeside resorts, and the verdant capital city, Klagenfurt. Outside the capital is the striking hilltop Hochosterwitz Castle. The province's biggest alpine lake is Wörther See, where you can stay at the idyllic summer resorts of Krumpendorf or Pörtschach. The sophisticated resort of Velden, at the western end of Wörther See, is called the heart of the "Austrian Riviera." In the center of the lake district, Villach, with its nearby warm springs, is another major destination.

Styria

One of the most heavily forested of the Austrian provinces, Styria has landscapes that rise from lush valleys to towering alpine peaks. With a strong medieval tradition, this area originated the loden-colored jackets and felt hats with feathers that many newcomers assume are the Austrian national costume. The district's capital is Graz, boasting one of the best-preserved medieval cores of any Austrian city. You'll also want to visit Bad Gleichenberg, the province's most important summer spa, and Mariazell, a major pilgrimage site because of its Mariazell Basilica. Another spa, Bad Aussee, is in the "green heart" of the Salzkammergut, in an extremely beautiful part of Austria. You'll find the area's best skiing in the Dachstein-Tauern, where you can stay at the twin resorts of Schladming and Rohrmoos.

Money

Foreign money and euros can be brought into Austria without any restrictions. There is no restriction on taking foreign money out of the country, either.

The euro (€) is the single European currency of Austria and other participating countries. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar.

For more details on the euro, check out www.europa.eu.int/euro.

Conversion ratios between the U.S. dollar and other currencies fluctuate, and their differences could affect the relative costs of your trip. The figures reflected in the currency chart below were valid at the time of this writing, but they might not be valid by the time of your departure. If you're planning on any major transactions, check for updated rates prior to making any serious commitments.

For American Readers At the time of this writing, US$1 was worth approximately .625 Eurocents. Inversely stated, 1€ was worth approximately US$1.60.

For British Readers At press time, £1 equaled approximately US$2, and approximately 1.25€.

For Canadian Readers At press time, CD$1 equaled approximately US$1 and approximately 1.60€.

Emergency Cash -- The Fastest Way -- If you need emergency cash over the weekend, when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you from Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). You must present valid ID to pick up the cash at the Western Union office. However, in most countries, you can pick up a money transfer even if you don't have valid identification, as long as you can answer a test question provided by the sender. Be sure to let the sender know in advance that you don't have ID. If you need to use a test question instead of ID, the sender must take cash to his or her local Western Union office rather than transfer the money over the phone or online.

Credit Cards

To get the best rate of exchange, use your credit cards whenever possible. They virtually always offer the best exchange rate, and there's no accompanying service charge. Credit cards are widely accepted in Austria; American Express, Visa, and Diners Club are the most commonly recognized. A EUROCARD or ACCESS sign displayed at an establishment means that it accepts MasterCard.

ATMs

ATMs are prevalent in all Austrian cities and even the smaller towns. ATMs are linked to a national network that most likely includes your bank at home. Both the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and the PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks have automated ATM locators listing the banks in Austria that will accept your card. Or just search out any machine with your network's symbol emblazoned on it.

Important note: Make sure that the PINs on your bank cards and credit cards will work in Austria. You'll need a four-digit code (six digits won't work); if you have a six-digit code, you'll have to go into your bank and get a new PIN for your trip. If you're unsure about this, contact Cirrus or PLUS (above). Be sure to check the daily withdrawal limit at the same time.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800 or 800/221-7282 for card holders; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee [for checks up to $1,500] at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, Ireland, and New Zealand need only a valid passport to enter Austria. No visa is required. Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place such as a money belt. If you lose it, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement. It's always a good idea to have a photocopy of your passport to expedite replacement.

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 12€ 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from the website. Contact the Passports Office (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (tel. 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk).

For residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Austria -- Visitors who live outside Austria in general are not liable to pay duty on personal articles brought into the country temporarily for their own use, depending on the purpose and circumstances of each trip. Customs officials have great leeway here. Likewise, travelers 17 years of age and older may carry up to 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco plus 1 liter of distilled liquor and either 2 liters of wine or 3 liters of beer duty-free.

What You Can Take Home from Austria -- Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for 48 hours or more are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 10% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. For more specific guidance, contact the Customs & Border Protection (CBP) (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov), and request the free pamphlet "Know Before You Go." For a clear summary of Canadian rules, request the booklet I Declare from Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). If you're a citizen of the United Kingdom, contact HM Revenue Customs (tel. 0845/010-9000; www.hmrc.gov.uk). Australian citizens should contact the Australian Customs Service (tel. 1300/363263 in Australia; www.customs.gov.au). New Zealanders should contact New Zealand Customs Service (tel. 0800/428-786 or 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).

Getting Around

By Train

Rail travel is superb in Austria, with fast, clean trains taking you through scenic regions. Trains will take you nearly every place in Austria except to remote hamlets tucked away in almost-inaccessible mountain districts. Many other services tie in with railroad travel, among them car or bicycle rental at many stations, bus transportation links, and package tours, including boat trips and cable-car rides. Inter-City Express trains connect Vienna with all major cities in the country, including Salzburg, Klagenfurt, Graz, and Linz. A train trip from Salzburg to Vienna takes about 3 hours.

Rail Passes -- Adults can purchase first- or second-class passes. In first class the charge is $229 for 3 days in 1 month; $265 for 4 days in 1 month; $295 for 5 days in 1 month; $329 for 6 days in 1 month; $359 for 7 days in 1 month, and $395 for 8 days in 1 month. In second class charges are $159 for 3 days in 1 month; $179 for 4 days in 1 month; $205 for 5 days in 1 month; $229 for 6 days in 1 month; $255 for 7 days in 1 month; and $279 for 8 days in 1 month.

The Eurail Austria Youth Pass is available for second-class travel, and can be sold to travelers who are 25 years old or younger on their first day of travel. Charges are $105 for 3 days in 1 month; $119 for 4 days in 1 month; $135 for 5 days in 1 month; $149 for 6 days in 1 month; $165 for 7 days in 1 month; and $179 for 8 days in 1 month.

Other Railway Data -- For information on short-distance round-trip tickets, cross-country passes, and passes for all lines in the individual provinces, as well as piggyback transportation for your car through the Tauern Tunnel, check with the Austrian Federal Railways (tel. 01/930-000; www.oebb.at).

By Car

Driving, of course, is the best way to crisscross Austria, going up and down its scenic mountain valleys and along its vast mountain passes. It's one of the greatest countries in the world for scenery. That applies only to the summer months. Driving conditions in Austria can be difficult in winter.

Renting a car is not the most economical way to see the country; by train or bus is cheaper.

Some mountain roads require a toll. The good news is that there is almost no delay at border crossings. Motorists zip about casually -- say, between Germany and Austria -- but in the wake of worldwide terrorism, conditions could often change at a moment's notice for reasons you will not be aware of.

All main roads in Austria are hard-surfaced. There's a four-lane Autobahn between Salzburg and Vienna; and between Vienna and Edlitz the Autobahn has six lanes. Part of the highway system includes mountain roads; and in the alpine region drivers face gradients of 6% to 16%, or even steeper in some places. When driving in Austria, always plot your course carefully. If you have had no experience in mountain driving -- much less alpine mountain driving -- you might want to take a train or a bus to get to some of the loftier mountain alpine retreats.

In summer, driving conditions are good, but in winter, December through March, motorists must reckon with snow on the roads and passes at higher altitudes. Roads at altitudes of up to 1,700m (5,577 ft.) are kept open in winter, although they can be temporarily closed because of heavy snowfall or avalanche danger. If you're planning to drive in Austria in winter, you'll need snow tires or chains.

Don't take chances. Ask about road conditions before you start on a trip. This information is available in English 7 days a week from 6am to 8pm from the Österreichischer Automobil-, Motorrad- und Touringclub (ÖAMTC), Schubertring 1-3, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 0810/120-120; www.oeamtc.at).

Rentals -- Drivers in Austria must have been in possession of a valid driver's license for at least 1 year before renting a vehicle. They must also present a valid passport when they sign the rental agreement. Drivers not in possession of a major credit card must pay in advance a minimum deposit, plus the estimated rental cost and the estimated tax. Cars rented from most rental companies can be dropped off in major cities of Germany for no additional charge. Drop-offs in Switzerland or Italy require an extra charge, which can be quite high.

Be aware that car rentals in Austria are taxed at a whopping rate of 21.2%. This is in addition to a 15% municipal airport tax added to the cost of any car rented at an airport. Clarify in advance whether the rates you're quoted include the taxes. Tip: You might consider taking a taxi to your hotel upon arrival and then renting your vehicle from an inner-city location to avoid the 15% airport surcharge.

When you reserve a car, be sure to ask if the price includes insurance. The rental outfits offer an optional insurance policy known as a loss-damage waiver (LDW). If you accept it, you'll be charged from 25€ ($40) per day. It allows you to waive all financial responsibility for any damage to your car, even if it's eventually determined that you were the driver at fault. In some instances, certain credit card companies offer free insurance if you use their card to pay for the rental. Check directly with your credit card issuer to see if you are covered.

Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com) is among the least expensive options in Austria. It maintains more than a dozen locations throughout the country, including branches at all the major airports and at downtown locations in most of the provincial capitals.

Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com) maintains offices in about 18 cities throughout Austria. During limited periods, it sometimes publicizes price promotions worth inquiring about, depending on the season, as well as discounts to employees of some large North American corporations.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; www.avis.com) operates offices in 19 Austrian cities, at airports and downtown, as well as at some of the country's larger ski resorts. Avis usually offers 10% discounts for members of such organizations as AAA and AARP. Like Budget and Hertz, it offers seasonal price promotions.

Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) has offices in about 10 cities throughout Asia.

AutoEurope (tel. 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com) operates 12 offices in Austrian cities as well as airports.

Gasoline -- Regular-grade unleaded (blei-frei) motor fuel is generally available in Austria. Skyrocketing gasoline prices vary from place to place but are somewhat lower at discounted or self-service gasoline stations. Austrian service stations don't accept U.S. oil company or general-purpose credit or charge cards.

Driving Rules -- Traffic regulations are similar to those in other European countries where you drive on the right. Driving under the influence of alcohol is severely punished. The permissible blood-alcohol level is very low -- two beers or 8 ounces of wine can put you over the mark. The minimum fine is 350€ ($560) and possible loss of a driver's license.

Use of seat belts is compulsory, and children under 12 may not sit in the front passenger seat unless a child's seat belt or a special seat has been installed. The use of hand-held cellphones is prohibited while driving, and a right turn at a red light is not permitted. Effective in late 2005, headlights must be on at all times day or night.

Automobile Clubs -- The leading auto club of Austria is the ÖAMTC (Österreichischer Automobil-, Motorred- und Touringclub), Schubertring 1-3, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 0810/120-120; www.oeamtc.at), which works in association with AAA. ARBÖ (tel. 050/123-123; www.arboe.at) is another.

Breakdowns/Assistance -- If your car breaks down, foreign motorists can call the two auto clubs mentioned above. Call ARBÖ (tel. 123) or ÖAMTC (tel. 120) anywhere in Austria. You don't need to use an area code for either number. However, if you're not a member of either of these clubs, you'll pay for emergency road service.

Motorcycles -- The same requirements for operating cars in Austria hold for operating motorcycles. Both drivers and passengers of motorcycles must wear crash helmets. Lights must be kept on when the vehicle is being driven.

By Taxi

In large Austrian cities, taxis are equipped with officially sealed taximeters that show the cost of your trip in euros. If a rate change has recently been instituted, a surcharge might be added to the amount shown on the meter, pending adjustment of the taximeter. Surcharges are posted in the cab. A supplement is charged for luggage carried in the vehicle's trunk. Zone charges or set charges for standard trips are the rule in most resort areas. Tip the driver 10% of the fare.

By Plane

Austrian Airlines (tel. 800/843-0002 in the U.S. and Canada; www.austrianair.com) offers flights that link Vienna to the country's leading cities. Outgoing flights from Vienna are carefully timed to coincide with the arrivals of most of the company's transatlantic flights.

Tyrolean Airways (same telephone number and website as Austrian Airlines), an airline partially owned by Austrian Airlines, offers a very useful airborne network whose home base is the Tyrolean capital of Innsbruck. Its regular flight network consists of up to four flights per day between Vienna and Innsbruck, and four flights each between Innsbruck and both Frankfurt and Zurich. The airline also offers about five flights a week between Innsbruck and the Styrian capital of Graz. Reservations on Tyrolean Airways can be made through Austrian Airlines. Its fleet consists almost entirely of turbo-prop planes containing no more than 49 seats. The airline specializes in domestic flights and commuter runs to destinations close to the border, including Munich and Budapest.

By Bus

It's easiest to get around Austria on the country's excellent rail network, but many Austrian villages are not near rail lines. Reaching some of these areas can be best accomplished by car or bus. To facilitate travel, the Austrian government maintains two different bus networks: those maintained by the Austrian Postal Service (whose vehicles, in most cases, are painted a reddish-orange) and those maintained by the Austrian Federal Railways (which, in some, but not all, cases are painted blue and white). In recent years, efforts have been made to merge both of these systems into one overall administration identified as the Bundesbus System, but many Austrians continue to make a distinction between the two networks. There are also a limited number of privately owned bus companies that specialize in long-haul transits to major cities outside Austria.

Buses (some of which also carry mail) cover a network of almost 30,500km (18,952 miles) of often very remote secondary roads. One of their primary functions involves retrieving passengers at railway stations for the continuation of journeys. Bus departures are usually timed to coincide with the arrival of trains from other parts of Austria. Buses are particularly helpful at the bottom of alpine valleys, where transit is needed to carry passengers from the local railway station up toward ski resorts and hamlets at higher altitudes. Children under 6 travel free on many of these buses, and children under 15 usually receive a 50% discount.

Information about bus schedules and routings is available at most post offices, at the reception desks of most hotels whose business relies on clients arriving by bus, and at travel agencies. Specifics about routes and schedules are in the Kursbuch (Austrian Motor Coach Schedule), a timetable that is usually updated annually and that forms part of the basic library maintained by virtually every tourist office in Austria. Bus information is usually also merged into the thousands of railway timetables that are posted at train stations throughout the country. An especially convenient way to find out about bus schedules, if you're heading to a hotel in a remote area, is to call the hotel and ask.

By Bicycle

From April to the beginning of November, you can rent a bicycle at some 120 rail stations across Austria. Charges vary but are nominal, with a 50% discount if you present a rail ticket for the day that you're renting a bike. Photo ID must be presented at the time of rental. You can reserve a bicycle in advance, but you can almost always get a bike without making reservations. The vehicle can be returned to where it was rented or to any other Austrian railroad station during business hours.

Escorted & Package Tours

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices -- kind of like one-stop shopping. Packages are sold in bulk to tour operators -- who resell them to the public at a cost that usually undercuts standard rates.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. British Airways' Holidays (tel. 800/AIRWAYS; www.britishairways.com) offerings tend to incorporate the scenery and architecture of Austria with similar attractions across the border in Germany and Switzerland. BA can arrange a stopover in London en route for an additional fee, and allows extra time in Vienna or Zurich before or after any tour for no additional charge.

The airlines are good sources of package deals. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, but among airline packagers, Lufthansa Airlines (tel. 800/399-5838 or 01/805-83-84-26 in Germany; www.lufthansa.com) leads the way. You may also wish to try American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com).

Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia.com, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages. If you're unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager, check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based, or go online to www.bbb.org. If a packager won't tell you where it's based, don't fly with it.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, admission costs, and local transportation.

Many people derive a sense of ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours -- whether by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel or worrying about details. You know your costs up front, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle -- you don't have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to meet people.

On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit up front, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. You'll have few opportunities for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they also often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on lesser-known gems.

American Express Vacations (tel. 800/335-3342; www.americanexpressvacations.com) is one of the biggest tour operators in the world. Its offerings are comprehensive, and unescorted customized package tours are available, too.

Brendan Vacations (tel. 800/421-8446; www.brendanvacations.com) has a selection of 8- to 16-day tours. Accommodations are at the better hotels, and rates include everything except airfare. Collette Vacations (tel. 800/340-5158; www.collettevacations.com) has 14 tours that cover Austria and various other European cities. Globus & Cosmos Tours (tel. 800/338-7092; www.globusandcosmos.com) offers 9- to 16-day escorted tours of various parts of Austria. It also has a budget branch that offers tours at lower rates. Maupintour (tel. 800/255-4266; www.maupintour.com) has a selection of upscale tours, such as a 14-day Blue Danube Discovery Tour, which take in such cities as Vienna, Linz, Dürnstein, Melk, and Salzburg, and an unusual, upscale (and very expensive) tour operator, Abercrombie and Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com), known for its carriage-trade rail excursions through eastern Europe and the Swiss and Austrian Alps.

The oldest travel agency in Britain, Cox & Kings, 30 Millbank, London SW1P 4EE (tel. 020/7873-5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk), specializes in unusual, if pricey, holidays. Offerings in Austria include organized tours through the country's many regions of natural beauty and tours of historic or aesthetic interest. Also available are opera tours to Salzburg and Vienna.

Other companies featuring offbeat adventure travel include HF Holidays, Catalyst House, 720 Centennial Ct., Elstree, Hertfordshire WD6-35Y (tel. 020/8732-1220; www.hfholidays.co.uk). It offers a range of 1- to 2-week packages to Austria. Sherpa Expeditions, 131 A Heston Rd., Hounslow, Middlesex TW5 0RF (tel. 020/8577-2717; www.sherpaexpeditions.com), offers treks through off-the-beaten-track regions of Europe, especially the Alps.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Package tours can vary by leaps and bounds. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. Some offer flights on scheduled airlines, while others book charters. Some limit your choice of accommodations and travel days. You are often required to make a large payment up front. On the plus side, packages can save you money, offering group prices but allowing for independent travel. Some even let you add on a few guided excursions or escorted day trips (also at prices lower than if you booked them yourself) without booking an entirely escorted tour.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide, and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don't take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.

Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Laws in Austria have compelled rail stations, airports, hotels, and most restaurants to follow a stricter set of regulations about wheelchair accessibility to restrooms, ticket counters, and the like. Even museums and other attractions have conformed to the regulations, which mimic many of those presently in effect in the United States. Always call ahead to check on the accessibility in hotels, restaurants, and at sights you want to visit.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

AirAmbulanceCard.com (tel. 877/424-7633) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 year U.S.; $22 outside U.S).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for disabled and elderly people.

Getting There

Although Vienna is serviced by a number of European airlines, most flights coming from the Western Hemisphere require a transfer in other European cities such as London or Frankfurt.

If you're planning to travel to western Austria -- Innsbruck, Salzburg, Tyrol, Vorarlberg, and parts of Land Salzburg -- keep in mind that these destinations are closer to Munich than to Vienna. It might be easier to fly to Munich and then rent a car or take a train to your final destination.

Also, if your destination lies somewhat off the beaten track, note that more connections are possible into the secondary airports of Austria from Frankfurt than from any other non-Austrian city. These connections are usually made by Lufthansa, Austrian Airlines, or Tyrolean Air, or on flights maintained cooperatively by some combination of those three.

Most flights from London to Vienna depart from London's Heathrow Airport. The flight takes 2 hours and 20 minutes.

By Plane

From the U.S., you can fly directly to Vienna on Austrian Airlines (tel. 800/843-0002 in the U.S. and Canada; www.austrianair.com), the national carrier of Austria. There's nonstop service from New York to Vienna (approx. 9 hr.) and from Washington and Toronto to Vienna.

British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS in the U.S. and Canada; www.britishairways.com) provides excellent service to Vienna. Passengers fly first to London -- usually nonstop -- from 23 gateways in the U.S., five in Canada, two in Brazil, and one each in Bermuda, Mexico City, and Buenos Aires. From London, British Airways has two to five daily nonstop flights to Vienna from either Gatwick or Heathrow airports.

Flights on Lufthansa (tel. 800/645-3880 in the U.S. and Canada; www.lufthansa.com), the German national carrier, depart from North America frequently for Frankfurt and Düsseldorf, with connections to Vienna.

American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com) funnels Vienna-bound passengers through gateways in Zurich or London.

If you're traveling from Canada, you can usually connect from your hometown to British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS in Canada; www.britishairways.com) gateways in Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver. Separate nonstop flights from both Toronto's Pearson Airport and Montreal's Mirabelle Airport depart every day for London, and flights from Vancouver depart for London three times a week. In London, you can stay for a few days (arranging discounted hotel accommodations through the British Airways tour desk) or head directly to Vienna on any of the two to five daily nonstop flights from either Heathrow or Gatwick.

There are frequent flights between London and Vienna, the majority of which depart from London's Heathrow Airport. Flight time is 2 hours and 20 minutes.

Austrian Airlines (tel. 0870/124-2625 in London; www.austrianair.com) has four daily nonstop flights into Vienna and two daily nonstop flights to Innsbruck from Heathrow. British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850 in London; www.britishairways.com) surpasses that, offering three daily nonstop flights from Heathrow and two from Gatwick, with easy connections through London from virtually every other part of Britain.

By Car

If you're traveling from continental Europe and don't want to fly, there are several other options for getting to Austria. If you're coming over from Britain and have arrived at a Channel port in France, by either ferry or the Chunnel, Vienna is about 1,285km (799 miles) away; Salzburg is about 1,030km (640 miles). It's faster to travel on the motorways going through Frankfurt, Cologne, Passau (Germany), and Linz (Austria). One of the main roads into Austria is the Autobahn from Munich via Salzburg to Vienna. From Switzerland, the main arteries are via Feldkirch to Innsbruck (capital of Tyrol), or from Basel via Karlsruhe to Munich and then on the busy Autobahn to either Salzburg or Vienna.

By Train

If you plan to travel a lot on the European or British railroads on your way to or from Vienna, you'd do well to secure the latest copy of the "Thomas Cook European Timetable of Railroads." It's available online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.

Vienna has rail links to all the major cities of Europe. From Paris, a train leaves the Gare de l'Est at 7:49am, arriving in Vienna at 9:18pm. From Munich, a train leaves daily at 9:24am (arriving in Vienna at 2:18pm) and then again at 11:19pm (arriving in Vienna at 6:47am). From Zurich, you can take a 9:33pm train that arrives in Vienna at 6:45pm.

Rail travel within Austria is superb, with fast, clean trains taking you just about anywhere in the country and going through some incredibly scenic regions.

Train passengers using the Chunnel under the English Channel can go from London to Paris in just 3 hours and then on to Vienna . Le Shuttle transports passengers along the 31-mile journey in just 35 minutes. The train also accommodates passenger cars, charter buses, taxis, and motorcycles through a tunnel from Folkestone, England, to Calais, France. Service is year-round, 24 hours a day.

Rail Passes for North American Travelers -- If you plan to travel extensively in Europe, the Eurail Global Pass might be a good bet. It's valid for first-class rail travel in 20 European countries. With one ticket, you travel whenever and wherever you please; more than 100,000 rail miles are at your disposal. Here's how it works: The pass is sold only in North America. A Eurailpass good for 15 days costs $795; a pass for 21 days is $1,029; a 1-month pass costs $1,279; a 2-month pass is $1,809; and a 3-month pass goes for $2,235. Children under 4 travel free if they don't occupy a seat; all children under 12 who take up a seat are charged half-price. If you're under 26, you can buy a Eurail Global Pass Youth, which entitles you to unlimited second-class travel for 15 days ($519), 21 days ($669), 1 month ($835), 2 months ($1,179), or 3 months ($1,455). Travelers considering buying a 15-day or 1-month pass should estimate rail distance before deciding whether a pass is worthwhile. To take full advantage of the tickets for 15 days or a month, you'd have to spend a great deal of time on the train. Eurailpass holders are entitled to substantial discounts on certain buses and ferries as well. Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in such major cities as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles sell all of these tickets. For information on Eurailpasses and other European train data, call RailEurope at tel. 877/272-RAIL, or visit it on the Web at www.raileurope.com.

Eurail Global Pass Saver offers a 15% discount to each person in a group of three or more people traveling together between April and September, or two people traveling together between October and March. The price of a Saverpass, valid all over Europe for first class only, is $675 for 15 days; $875 for 21 days; $1,089 for 1 month; $1,539 for 2 months; and $1,905 for 3 months. Even more freedom is offered by the Saver Flexipass, which is similar to the Eurail Saverpass, except that you are not confined to consecutive-day travel. For travel over any 10 days within 2 months, the fare is $608; for any 15 days over 2 months, the fare is $800.

The Eurail Select Pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any 3, 4, or 5 bordering countries out of the 23 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: for 5 days in 2 months you pay $505 for three countries. Eurail Select Pass Youth for travelers under 26, allow second-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $329. Eurail Select Pass Saver offers discounts for two or more people traveling together, first-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $429.

Rail Passes for British Travelers -- If you plan to do a lot of exploring, you might prefer one of the three rail passes designed for unlimited train travel within a designated region during a predetermined number of days. These passes are sold in Britain and several other European countries and can be used only by European residents.

An InterRail Global Pass (www.interrail.com) allows unlimited travel through Europe, except Albania and the republics of the former Soviet Union.

Adults purchasing an InterRail global Pass can travel first or second class. In first class prices are $329 for 5 days in 10 days; $489 for 10 days in 22 days; $629 for 22 days continuous, or $809 for 1 month. In second class, the cost is $249 for 5 days in 10 days; $359 for 10 days in 22 days; $469 for 22 days continuous, and $599 for 1 month continuous.

An InterRail Global Youth Pass is also sold and is available only in second class. A youth is defined as those travelers ranging from age 12 through 25 years of age. The cost is $159 for 5 days in 10 days; $239 for 10 days in 22 days; $309 for 22 days continuous; and $399 for 1 month continuous.

For information on buying individual rail tickets or any of the just-mentioned passes, contact National Rail Inquiries, Victoria Station, London (tel. 0845/748-4950; www.nationalrail.co.uk). Tickets and passes are also available at any of the larger railway stations as well as selected travel agencies throughout Britain and the rest of Europe.

By Bus

Because of the excellence of rail service from all parts of the Continent into both Salzburg and Vienna, bus transit into Austria is not especially popular. But there is some limited service. Eurolines, part of National Express Coach Lines (tel. 0871/781-8181; www.nationalexpress.com), operates two express buses per week between London's Victoria Coach Station and Vienna. The trip takes about 29 hours and makes 45-minute rest stops en route about every 4 hours during the transit through France, Belgium, and Germany. Buses depart from London at 8:15am every Friday and Sunday, and are equipped with reclining seats, toilets, and reading lights. The one-way London-Vienna fare is £52 to £72 ($104-$144). If you opt for a round-trip fare, priced at £80 to £104 ($160-$208), you won't need to declare your intended date of return until you actually use your ticket (although advance reservations are advisable), and the return half of your ticket will be valid for 6 months. The return to London departs from Vienna every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 7:45pm, arriving at Victoria Coach Station about 24 hours later.