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The core of the city's nightlife is the Canal de São Roque, near the Mercado de Peixe in the town center. Here you'll find a trio of 18th-century stone salt warehouses. They've been transformed into attractive, richly folkloric bars that draw loyal local patrons. One is Sal Poente (tel. 23/438-26-74), which functions from noon to 2:30pm and 7:30 to 10pm as a well-managed restaurant, and then Friday and Saturday from 10:30pm to around 2am as a venue for live concerts. Expect to hear lots of Brazilian samba and rock -- everything except fado. Sal Poente is one of the few eateries in town with views that encompass both the lagoon and the town's age-old salt pans.

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