For more than 30 years this no-nonsense place has been serving excellent regional cuisine to crowds of appreciative locals and visitors. The layout is labyrinthine with a succession of noisy rooms filled with families tucking in. Specialities include caldeirada de enguias (eel stew), polvo à lagareiro (roast octopus) and cabrito assado (roast kid). They'll bring a vast selection of appetizers, which is good because when it's busy the mains may take a while.