Dishes from Thailand’s eastern seaboard—in particular Trat province—are rarely found in Bangkok, which is a shame, but a good reason to head here. Eastern Thai food uses an abundance of seafood, lots of fresh fruit and tends toward flavors on the sweet and herbal side of the scale. The phonebook-size menu has nearly 20 pages of dishes, most of which were developed by the owner’s mother; that’s her depicted in  the large mural. Our favorites include a veggie-laden whole mud crab (lon pu kai) chili dip, and the complex massaman curry with young durian fruit. The cheerful staff is happy to make recommendations if you’re indecisive.