Things To Do in Barbados

Exploring Bridgetown

Often hot and clogged with traffic, the capital, Bridgetown, merits a morning's shopping jaunt, plus a visit to some of its major sights.

Since about half a million visitors arrive on Barbados by cruise ship every year, the bustling cruise-ship terminal houses about 30 duty-free shops, 13 local retail stores, and scads of vendors. Cruise passengers can choose from a range of products, including the arts and crafts of Barbados, jewelry, liquor, china, crystal, electronics, perfume, and leather goods. The interior was designed to re-create an island street scene; some storefronts appear as traditional chattel houses in brilliant island colors, complete with streetlights, tropical landscaping, benches, and pushcarts.

Begin your tour at the waterfront, called the Carenage (French for "turning vessels on their side for cleaning"). This was a haven for clipper ships, and even though today it doesn't have the color of yesteryear, it's still worth exploring.

At Heroes Square (formerly known as Trafalgar Square), the long tradition of British colonization is immortalized. The monument here honoring Lord Nelson was created by Sir Richard Westmacott and erected in 1813. The great gray Victorian/Gothic Public Buildings on the square look like ones you might find in London. The east wing contains the meeting halls of the Senate and the House of Assembly, with some stained-glass windows representing the sovereigns of England. Look for the "Great Protector" himself, Oliver Cromwell.

Behind the Financial Building, St. Michael's Cathedral, east of Heroes Square, is the symbol of the Church of England. This Anglican church was built in 1655 but was completely destroyed in a 1780 hurricane. Reconstructed in 1789, it was again damaged by a hurricane in 1831. George Washington supposedly worshipped here during his visit to Barbados.

The Synagogue, Synagogue Lane (tel. 246/426-5792; http://haruth.com/jw/JewsBarbados.html), is one of the oldest synagogues in the Western Hemisphere and is surrounded by a burial ground of early Jewish settlers. The present building dates from 1833. It was constructed on the site of an even older synagogue, erected by Jews from Brazil in 1654. It's now part of the National Trust of Barbados -- and a synagogue once again. It's open Monday to Friday from 9am to 3pm; a donation is appreciated.

First made popular in 1870, cricket is the national pastime on Barbados. Matches can last from 1 to 5 days. If you'd like to see one, watch for announcements in the newspapers or ask at the Barbados Cricket Association, at the nation's state-of-the-art and futuristic-looking stadium, Kensington Oval, St. Michael (tel. 246/436-1325; www.bcacricket.org).

From Bridgetown you can take a taxi to Garrison Savannah, just south of the capital, a venue for horse races.

Barbados Museum, St. Ann's Garrison, St. Michael (tel. 246/427-0201; www.barbmuse.org.bb), is in a former military prison. Extensive collections show the island's development from prehistoric to modern times and give fascinating glimpses into the natural environment and fine examples of West Indian maps. The museum sells a variety of quality publications, reproductions, and handicrafts. Hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm, Sunday 2 to 6pm. Admission is $7.50 for adults, $3.75 for children.

Nearby, the russet-red St. Ann's Fort, on the fringe of the savanna, garrisoned British soldiers in 1694. The fort wasn't completed until 1703. The Clock House survived the hurricane of 1831.

In the Center of the Island

Many visitors stay on those fabulous west-coast beaches, but the island's true beauty is its lush interior. If you have time, we highly recommend a hike, drive, or tour through such rarely visited parishes as St. Thomas and St. George (both are landlocked) and the wild Atlantic coast parishes of St. Andrews, St. Joseph, and St. John.

A Beautiful Picnic Spot -- Farley Hill National Park surrounds what used to be one of the great houses of Barbados, Farley Hill, a mansion now in ruins. The park is north of the parish of St. Peter, directly across the road leading into the Barbados Wildlife Reserve. You can bring in a picnic and wander in the park, overlooking the turbulent waters of the Atlantic. You can enter the park for free if you're walking, but it costs $2 to enter by car. Hours are daily 8:30am to 5pm.

You may find duty-free merchandise here at prices 20% to 40% lower than in the United States and Canada -- but you've got to be a smart shopper to spot bargains, and you should be familiar with prices back in your hometown. Duty-free shops have two prices listed on items of merchandise: the local retail price, and the local retail price less the government-imposed tax.

Some of the best duty-free buys include cameras, watches, crystal, gold jewelry, bone china, cosmetics and perfumes, and liquor (including locally produced Barbados rum and liqueurs), along with tobacco products and cashmere sweaters, tweeds, and sportswear from Britain. Items made on Barbados are duty-free.

The quintessential Barbados handicrafts are black-coral jewelry and clay pottery. The latter originates at Highland Pottery, Inc. (tel. 246/422-9818), which is worth a visit. Potters turn out different products, some based on designs that are centuries old. The potteries (which are signposted) are north of Bathsheba on the east coast, most of them within or immediately adjacent to the hamlet of Chalky Mountain, in St. Andrew's Parish. In shops across the island, you'll also find a selection of locally made vases, pots, pottery mugs, glazed plates, and ornaments.

Island artisans weave wall hangings from local grasses and dried flowers, and also turn out straw mats, baskets, and bags with raffia embroidery. Leatherwork -- particularly handbags, belts, and sandals -- is also found on Barbados.

In Bridgetown

Cruise passengers generally head for the cruise-ship terminal at Bridgetown Harbour, which has some 20 duty-free shops, 13 local shops, and many vendors.

At Articrafts, Norman Center Mall, Broad Street (tel. 246/427-5767), John and Roslyn Watson have assembled an impressive display of Bajan arts and crafts. Roslyn's distinctive wall hangings are decorated with objects from the island, including sea fans and coral.

Cave Shepherd, Broad Street (tel. 246/227-1330; www.caveshepherd.com), is the largest department store on the island and the best place for duty-free merchandise. There are branches at Sunset Crest in Holetown, Da Costas Mall, Grantley Adams Airport, and the Bridgetown cruise-ship terminal, but if your time is limited, try this outlet, as it has the widest selection. The store sells perfumes, cosmetics, fine crystal and bone china, cameras, jewelry, swimwear, leather goods, men's designer clothing, handicrafts, liquor, and souvenirs. Take a break in the cool comfort of the Balcony, overlooking Broad Street, which serves vegetarian dishes and has a salad bar and beer garden.

Harrison's, 10-14 Broad St. (tel. 246/431-5500), has six branch stores, all selling a wide variety of duty-free merchandise, including china, crystal, jewelry, watches, liquor, and perfumes -- all at fair prices. Also for sale are some fine leather products handcrafted in Colombia.

Little Switzerland, in the Da Costas Mall, Broad Street (tel. 246/431-0030; www.littleswitzerland.com), offers a wide selection of watches, fine jewelry, and an array of goodies from Waterford, Lalique, Swarovski, Baccarat, and others.

Pelican Craft Centre, Harbour Road (tel. 246/427-5350), consists of about 20 somewhat disorganized crafts boutiques, each of them clustered tightly into a folkloric/ethnic blend of thatched roofs, dust, and commercial hubbub. It's been accused of being somewhat overpriced and something of a tourist trap, but there are occasional moments of charm among the handcrafted items on display. Most of the shops here are gimmicky, but a few intriguing items can be found if you search hard enough. Sometimes you can see craftspeople at work. In Bridgetown, go down Princess Alice Highway to the city's Deep Water Harbour, where you'll find this tiny colony of thatched-roof shops.

Elsewhere on the Island

The Watering Hole, Hwy. 7, St. Lawrence Main Road, close to the entrance to St. Lawrence's Gap (tel. 246/435-6375), is not only the best place to purchase bottles of Bajan rum at duty-free prices, but is also a great dive for hanging out. A small bottle of rum (about 6 oz.) sells for around $8. Some locals as well as savvy visitors come here and make an evening of it, sampling the various rum drinks. Of course, you may need someone to carry you back to your hotel, as these punches are lethal. Opening times vary -- call to be sure -- but we've seen this place going strong at 3am. One of the more interesting shopping jaunts in Barbados involves a visit to the very laid-back vendors at Tyrol Cot Heritage Village, Codrington Hill, St. Michael (tel. 246/424-2074), the former home of Bajan national hero Sir Grantley Adams. On the grounds of the former prime minister's estate is a colony of artisans, who turn out an array of articles for sale ranging from paintings to pottery, from baskets to handmade figurines.

Earthworks Pottery/On the Wall Gallery, Edgehill Heights 2, St. Thomas (tel. 246/425-0223; www.earthworks-pottery.com), is one of the artistic highlights of Barbados. Deep in the island's central highlands, Canadian-born Goldie Spieler and her son, David, in business at this site since 1978, create whimsical ceramics in the colors of the sea and sky, with touches of watermelon pink. Many are decorated with Antillean-inspired swirls and zigzags. On the premises are a studio and a showroom that sells the output of at least half a dozen other island potters. Purchases can be shipped. Immediately next door is the Ins and Outs Gift Emporium (tel. 246/438-3438), where jars of locally made condiments -- jams, jellies, sauces, and spices -- are sold along with a small selection of island-inspired reading materials.

The Shell Gallery "Contentment," Gibbes Hill, St. Peter (tel. 246/422-2593), has the best collection of shells in the West Indies. Also offered are shell jewelry, and local pottery and ceramics.

Greenwich House Antiques, Greenwich Village, Trents Hill, St. James (tel. 246/432-1169), a 25-minute drive from Bridgetown, feels like a genteel private home where the objects for sale seem to have come from the attic of your slightly dotty great aunt. The building that contains the shop is at least a century old, the historic centerpiece of what used to be a sugar plantation. Dozens of objects, both utilitarian and decorative, including some good examples of Barbados-made mahogany furniture, fill every available inch of display space.

On the West Coast

A lot of the evening entertainment around here revolves around the big resorts, many of which have lovely bars, some of which host bands and beach parties in the evening.

Scarlet (tel. 246/432-3663; www.scarletbarbados.com) is a wine bar and bistro-style restaurant that's positioned in a scarlet-colored old-fashioned house across the coastal road from the House and Tamarind Bay resorts. Frankly, we prefer it as a drinking hangout and wine emporium instead of as a full-fledged restaurant, ordering a glass or two from the comprehensive wine list or perhaps any of the staggeringly potent cocktails. Try, for example, an "elderflower Collins" or a passion fruit Caipirhumba (they call it "a caipirinha revisited"). At the bar, you'll find Warhol portraits of the women who got intimate with JFK, including Jackie O. and Marilyn Monroe. Know in advance that you don't "sit" here, you "perch" somewhat uncomfortably, on a high bar stool overlooking the crowds of urbanized 30-somethings that make the place their hangout. Cocktails cost from $8 to $18. Small amuse-bouche platters of decidedly stylish food (flying-fish lollipops, smoked-salmon sushi with wasabi) cost from $8 to $14. It's open Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 10:30pm as a restaurant, till around midnight as a bar.

John Moore Bar, on the waterfront, Weston, St. James (tel. 246/422-2258), is the most atmospheric and least pretentious bar on Barbados. Open to the sea breezes and very weather-beaten, it's the nerve center of this waterfront town, filled day and night with a congenial group of neighborhood residents and a scattering of tourists. You might even find Barbados's prime minister hanging out here -- the bar is a stronghold of his island constituency, and since he won his office, things around this bar became a lot more interesting. Most visitors opt for a rum punch or beer, but you can order up a plate of local fish if you don't mind waiting.

What's our ultimate fave in the "raffish bars on the waterfront" category? It's Fisherman's Pub & Beach Bar, Queen Street, Speightstown, St. Peter (tel. 246/422-2703). Set within a dilapidated wood-and-corrugated-steel building directly on the waterfront, it's a local hangout for Bajan residents and the politicians who serve them, as well as an occasional rock, soccer, or cricket bigwig. There has been a bar here since the 1940s, with chairs and battered tables set on a covered wooden deck built over the water. Beer costs $2.50, rum punch costs $3.50, and full meals, served by an employee, cafeteria style, from a steam tray in a corner, cost from $5 to $15 each. Expect boiled chicken, shepherd's pie, flying-fish filets, and various preparations of beef. It's open Monday to Saturday 11am to 9pm as a restaurant and till around midnight as a bar. A steel band plays here on Wednesday nights.

In Bridgetown

For the most authentic Bajan evening possible, head for Baxters Road in Bridgetown, where there's always something cooking Friday and Saturday nights after 11pm. In fact, if you stick around until dawn, you'll find the party's still going strong. Some old-time visitors have compared Baxters Road to the back streets of New Orleans in the 1930s. If you fall in love with the place, you can "caf crawl" up and down the street, where nearly every bar is run by a Bajan mama.

The most popular "caf" on Baxters Road is Patsy (she has a phone, "but it doesn't work"), a little ramshackle establishment where Bajans come for fried chicken throughout the evening between around 5pm till as late as 2am, depending on business. Even if you're not particularly hungry, consider stopping in for a Banks beer.

Boatyard Bar & South Deck Grill, Bay Street in Bridgetown (tel. 246/436-2622; www.theboatyard.com), is one of the busiest and most hard-drinking of the youth-oriented bars in Bridgetown. Occupying the beachfront, the interior is lavishly decorated in bright Creole colors of yellow, blue, and pink. If you want food, the menu features simple platters of fish, chicken, or burgers. If you want to go swimming, the beach lies almost directly adjacent to the foundations of this place. Expect a 5-minute trek from central Bridgetown; hordes of dancers jiving to the DJ every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday; and lots of local gossip. It's open daily 9am to sometimes as late as 3am, depending on business.

Harbour Lights, Marine Villa, Lower Bay Street, 2km (1 1/4 miles) southeast of Bridgetown (tel. 246/436-7225; www.harbourlightsbarbados.com), is the island's most popular weekend spot for dancing, drinking, and flirting. In a modern seafront building with an oceanfront patio (which gives dancers a chance to cool off), the place plays recorded versions of reggae, soca, and whatever else is popular until the wee hours nightly. Monday is Beach Party Night; the $73 charge includes transportation to and from your hotel, a barbecue buffet, drinks, a live band, and lots of theme-derived entertainment that includes limbo contests and fire-eaters. On Wednesday and Friday, the cover is $25.

On the South Coast

The bustling activity at Cafe Sol, St. Lawrence Gap, Christ Church (tel. 246/420-7655; www.cafesolbarbados.com), attracts a very convivial crowd. As a specialty of the house, the bartender rubs the margarita glasses with Bajan sugar instead of the usual salt. There's an on-site local restaurant as well.

Plantation Theatre Restaurant, Main Road (Hwy. 7), St. Lawrence Main Road, Christ Church (tel. 246/428-5048; www.plantationtheatre.com), is the island's main showcase for evening dinner theater and Caribbean cabaret. It's completely touristy, but enjoyable nonetheless. Every Wednesday and Friday, dinner is served at 7:15pm, followed at 8:15pm by a show, Bajan Roots and Rhythm. Expect elaborate costumes and reggae, calypso, and limbo. For $98 you get dinner, the show, and transportation to and from your hotel; the show alone costs $58. Reserve in advance.

The Ship Inn, St. Lawrence Gap, Christ Church, near Oistins (tel. 246/420-7447; www.shipinnbarbados.com), is among the leading drinking, dining, and entertainment centers on the south coast. The pub is the hot spot: Top local bands perform 3 nights a week, offering reggae, calypso, and pop music. Otherwise, there's a live DJ. The entrance fee ranges from free (if you're eating dinner) to between $5 and $10. The place draws an equal number of visitors and locals.

The biggest and best sports bar in Barbados, without equal, is Bubba's Sports Bar, Rockley Main Road, Christ Church (tel. 246/435-6217; www.bubbassportsbar.net), which offers a couple of satellite dishes, a 3m (10-ft.) video screen, and a dozen TVs. Wash a Bubba burger down with a Banks beer.