A series of shaded, plank decks lined by marble-topped tables, wicker chairs, and pale green wooden railings amble over the sands from the coral-stone flank of this converted 18th-century fort on Shermans beach. The chef has only to walk 10 minutes each morning to the fish market for fresh mahi mahi, jumbo shrimp, and spiny lobster. They are not afraid of flavor or experimenting here: scallops dusted with smoked paprika; lamb shanks braised in a tomato-thyme jus; salmon marinated in ginger with wasabi greens; smoked salmon cheesecake; almond-crusted goat cheese with a grilled pineapple and portabella salad; or penang-style vegetable curry.

The Fish Pot is actually part of a hotel, the Little Good Harbour, which rents suites upstairs and a baker’s dozen of chattel-style cottages set back from the beach; from $213 in winter, $133 in summer.