Three of the greatest residential Modernista buildings in Barcelona stand along the block of Passeig de Gràcia between Carrer del Consell de Cent and Carrer d’ Aragó. Labeled by tourism promoters as the Quadrat D’Or, or Golden Quarter, it’s also referred to with a wink as the Mançana de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord), a name alluding to the mythical Judgment of Paris, in which an apple was the prize in a contentious beauty contest among three goddesses (in Catalan, “apple” is the same word as “city block”). Casa Amatller is a 1900 masterpiece by Josep Puig i Cadalfach, a key architect from the generation before Gaudí. After many decades as an office building, a massive facelift restored its original look as the home of chocolatier Antoní Amatller; it re-opened to the public in 2015. This Modernista wonder reflects the architect’s—and the era’s—fascination with northern European Gothic style as the apex of nostalgic Catalan history. It stands in striking contrast to its next-door neighbor, Gaudí’s Casa Batlló. Puig i Cadafalch made extensive use of ceramics, wrought iron, and fanciful sculptures to achieve this gingerbread creation. The guided tour includes, appropriately, a chocolate tasting, and if you’re still hungry, the pleasant Café Faborit out back makes a nice stop after the tour.