As the name suggests, chef Jordi Vila fashions himself an alchemist, transmuting base materials of Catalan cuisine into a kind of gastronomic gold. Since the restaurant moved across town from Eixample Dreita to the current space in Raval, its lush environment now complements the extravagance of his food. Some signature dishes—like a “fried egg” of cauliflower cream—are almost impossibly labor-intensive (and priced accordingly), while others like the roast chicken cannelloni, the veal kidneys with coffee crumbs, or the pickled oyster with glazed pork have surprising tastes but relatively straightforward preparations. Vila can elevate some of the simplest ingredients, poaching red mullet in olive oil and gracing the plate with an apple-cucumber chutney.