La Cova Fumada
This tiny, unchanging bar next to Barceloneta market is a reminder of how the fisherman’s district once was. It’s still busy with locals enjoying a plate of sardines grilled in the smoky corner kitchen, but visitors are welcomed and there’s a fascinating list of dishes chalked in Catalan on the board. The squid (calamar), prawns (gambes), and salt cod fritters (bunyols de bacallà) are all tasty, but the non-fish dishes are perhaps the bigger surprise. It’s a great place to try the classic Catalan head-to-toe stew cap i pota, swimming with chunks of fat. Easier to stomach are the delicious, charred artichoke hearts (carxofes) and don’t miss the bomba, Barceloneta’s famous deep-fried meat and potato ball, which may have been invented in this very bar. The prices for food and wine by the jug seem frozen in the past too. Be prepared to wait for a table.
This tiny, unchanging bar next to Barceloneta market is a reminder of how the fisherman’s district once was. It’s still busy with locals enjoying a plate of sardines grilled in the smoky corner kitchen, but visitors are welcomed and there’s a fascinating list of dishes chalked in Catalan on the board. The squid (calamar), prawns (gambes), and salt cod fritters (bunyols de bacallà) are all tasty, but the non-fish dishes are perhaps the bigger surprise. It’s a great place to try the classic Catalan head-to-toe stew cap i pota, swimming with chunks of fat. Easier to stomach are the delicious, charred artichoke hearts (carxofes) and don’t miss the bomba, Barceloneta’s famous deep-fried meat and potato ball, which may have been invented in this very bar. The prices for food and wine by the jug seem frozen in the past too. Be prepared to wait for a table.
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