Local Favorites in Barcelona

Established in 1930, Granja Dulcinea, Petritxol 2 (tel. 93-302-68-24), is the most famous chocolate shop in Barcelona. The specialties are melindros (sugar-topped soft-sided biscuits), and regulars dunk them into the very thick hot chocolate -- so thick that it feels like eating a melted chocolate bar. Dulcinea is open daily from 9am to 1pm and 4:30 to 9pm (closed in Aug).

In the same street you'll find the simple, brightly lit Granja Pallaresa, Petritxol 11 (tel. 93-302-20-36), equally famous for its thick and rich chocolate drinks. There's a good choice of pastries, including calorie-laden ensaimadas (Mallorcan pastries filled with lard!) too. It opens daily from 9am to 1pm and 4 to 9pm. Take the Metro to Liceu for both cafes.

Barcelona's Midday Vermouth

Fer el vermut (to do the vermouth) is a sacred Barcelona ritual. Usually observed between midday and 2pm, the idea is to enjoy a glass of the herb-infused, fortified wine to wake up your appetite before lunch—ideally with friends. The bittersweet aperitif—served in a tumbler with ice, a slice of orange, and an olive—is accompanied with tiny plates called aperitivos, perhaps a single anchovy in oil. Barcelona has seen a resurgence of vermuterias in recent years. Here are six of our favorites.

Bodega Quimet—The neighborhood of Gràcia has plenty of authentic vermouth bars. This family-run hole in the wall is a classic, with house vermouth straight from the barrel. The variado de vermut sharing plate is a perfect introduction to fishy Catalan appetizers. Carrer de Vic, 23. tel. 93-218-41-89.

Bodega Vasconia—Prop yourself at the grooved marble bar at this 1903 gem near the waterfront, and order your vermouth with a classic accompaniment, perhaps a banderilla de boquerón—pickled anchovies and olives on a skewer. Carrer d’en Gignàs, 13.. 📞 93-488-68-82.

Cala de Vermut—Locals and tourists stand shoulder to shoulder at this friendly spot in the old city with its own blend of vermouth on tap. Give it a splash of soda from a vintage siphon. Tapas include an excellent bomba de pulpo (octopus fishball). Carrer de Copons 2. tel. 93-318-89-96. 

Casa Mariol—The family-run vermouth and wine producer Mariol’s spacious bar near La Sagrada Família is a good place to buy a bottle to take home. It pairs perfectly with spicy patatas bravas, and gildas—skewers of anchovy, olive and pickled chilli. Carrer de Rosselló, 442. tel. 93-436-76-28.

Senyor Vermut—The tapas are chalked on a blackboard in Catalan only at this popular bar in L’Eixample. Battered, deep fried fish (pescadito) and an impressive range of croquettes are a delightful way to soak up the alcohol (around 15 percent). Carrer de Provença, 85. tel. 93-532-88-65.

V de Vermut—One of a fashionable new wave of vermuterias, this buzzy bar stocks 40 different vermouths and crafts delicious cocktails too. Alongside the usual fish bites are some tasty sandwiches and sensational patatas bravas. Carrer de Manso, 1. tel. 66-796-75-19