There are very few places to choose from when it comes to eating in this area but we did find these two gems, both on Jalan Raya Denpasar in Bedugul. Café Teras Lempuna (tel. 0362/29312; main courses from Rp35,000; no credit cards; daily 7am-10pm) serves a mixture of simple pasta, sandwiches, and oddly, a wide selection of Japanese food. The chicken curry and the ginger pork were extremely tasty, as were most of the Japanese dishes on offer. The simple tomato and mushroom salad with miso dressing was so good I came back for it the following day. The Seoul Garden (tel. 0362/29920; main courses Rp60,000-Rp100,000; no credit cards; daily 7am-9pm) makes some of the best kimchi on Bali. Choose from a simple menu of pork dishes like their house specialty grilled fat with pork (Rp65,000) and my favorite, tofu with fried kimchi.

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