For the best seafood, albeit at extortionate prices, head out to Waisha, a thin strip of land connected by a bridge to the northwest part of town where new restaurants have replaced the 72 informal "no-name" food stalls that used to be here. Local specialties worth trying include sandworms, abalone, snails, crayfish, and sea cucumber. To eat where the locals eat, look for the night market at the rear of Chang Qin Park on Chang Qin Lu.

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