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This cozy courtyard restaurant specializing in southwestern Yunnan cuisine was one of the first to be located inside the hutongs, the historic neighborhoods of the capital. The restaurant charms with rustic wooden furnishings and a tree-covered outdoor space. Influenced by neighbors Burma and Vietnam, Yunnan province's food is light and sophisticated, making good use of the region's abundant mushrooms and unusual herbs. There is no menu; diners enjoy prix-fixe courses made from whatever the chef found freshest in the market that day. Favorites like the slightly salty fried goat cheese, spicy mint salad, and herb-encrusted fried fish make regular appearances. The place is a little tricky to find. Your taxi will drop you at the mouth of the alley; walk straight about 150 yards and look to your left for a red lantern down an even smaller alley.