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It's a scene you'll find only in Beirut: Expertly restored Roman ruins amid a bustling modern business district; the ringing of chimes at a nearby Armenian church; an Ottoman palace -- Le Grand Serail -- opposite; and armed soldiers close by to make sure you're not taking photographs anywhere near the palace. It was only during the mammoth Solidere renovations and rebuilding that these public Roman baths came to light; and after extensive renovations they are stunning. The entire area has been terraced and resembles a park.