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Tim Raue is Berlin's local boy made good, a Kreuzberg gang member turned celebrity chef who owns five restaurants at last count. The eponymous restaurant Tim Raue by Checkpoint Charlie is the most celebrated. But La Soupe Populaire, intended as a nod to the chef's working class roots, is by far the most "Berlin". It starts with the location, a skylit metal mezzanin deep within the cavernous ruins of a former brewery, and continues with the food, a series of playful sophisticated takes on Raue's favorite childhood dishes. Most in demand are the classic Konigsberger Klopse, breadcrumb-sprinkled veal meatballs in a rich Riesling sauce with a silky potato puree and apple-beet salad. Yes, you might feeel a little silly paying 12€ for an upscale version of "Hawaii Toast" (ham, cheese and pineapple baked on bread, traditionally enjoyed by German kids and drunk students, augmented here with green pepper and cherry reduction). But you'll enjoy every bite—and the baroque-industrial mise-en-scene that goes with it.