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Beneath the green awnings and fish signs lies the best deli in Berlin, a nearly 90-year-old institution where greying society ladies, overalled blue collar types, and overwhelmed-looking tourists lunch side-by-side. Whether you're looking for smoked eel, pickled herring, translucent head cheese, or a dizzying variety of potato salads, you'll find it here, purveyed by no-nonsense aproned employees. You can order delicacies a la carte from the various counters; fill a plate with fried cod and potato salad at the cafeteria station in the back; or head to the bar in the center for oysters and a glass of wine. No matter what, you'll probably have to eat standing up, which is part of the charm.