Chef Daniel Garcia elevates traditional Basque foodstuffs to a level of refinement not seen since the heyday of Escoffier. The main dining room of this beautiful and formal restaurant glitters in French Empire style, but Garcia’s conceptual dishes and their execution are very much 21st century. Not content to simply roast wood pigeon, he presents a plate in five forms: roasted, confit, grilled, fried, and emulsified and frozen into an ice cream. He reimagines the Basque staple monkfish by roasting it, then serving it in a taco with a couscous of roasted cauliflower and dried fruit. For dessert, he proposes a gin and tonic juniper cream, blood orange jelly, and lemon granita.