Strömstad in Bohuslan Coast

Strömstad is a slice of Norway in Sweden -- more Norwegians than Swedes summer here. Until 1658, Strömstad actually was part of Norway. Today it is a fishing harbor and, in summer, a lively tourist center. (A fish market is held here at 7am Tues-Fri.) Lying on the salty Skaggerrak on the borderline between Sweden and Norway, it's a place of rolling waves, cliffs warmed by the sun, and sandy beaches.

Thirty-two kilometers (20 miles) north of Tanumshede, Strömstad knew greater glory in the 18th century when it was one of the most fashionable spas in Sweden. The town makes an excellent stopover for those heading farther north into the wilds of Sweden. Many Norwegians also pass through here because of ferry links to Sandefjord, Fredrikstad, and Halden in Norway.

For information, head first for the tourist office, Strömstad Tourist, Torget (tel. 0526/623-30). It's open July to August daily 9am to 8pm; off season Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Strömstad is linked by rail to Gothenburg, a 3-hour journey. The E6 Express Bus between Gothenburg and Oslo also stops off here. Motorists should follow Route 176 off the E6 for a distance of 12km (7 1/2 miles).

Many visitors also use Strömstad merely as a refueling stop for trips over to the Koster Islands. If you have time for only one island, make it Nordkoster (North Koster), which is a large nature reserve. You can explore the whole island on foot in about 2 hours; cars are prohibited. Sydkoster (South Koster) is three times the size of North Koster and can be toured by bike. Before heading here, ask at the Strömstad tourist office how to arrange rentals. The waters around both islands are the warmest in Sweden for summer swimming. You can also go bird- or seal-watching on this island, and the islands abound in wildflowers. In Strömstad, ferries leave year-round from Laholmen and cost 120SEK ($24/£12) per person round-trip. The tourist office keeps a list of ferry schedules, which are subject to change because of weather conditions.