Planning a trip to Bolivia

Tips on Dining

The food is good in Bolivia -- it's just not terribly varied. The diet here is rich in meat, corn, and potatoes. For breakfast, it's common to eat salteñas (either chicken or beef, spiced with onions and raisins, and wrapped up in a doughy pastry shell). In most towns, you'll find vendors selling them on nearly every street corner. It's also very easy to buy freshly squeezed orange juice on the street. Most typical Bolivian restaurants offer similar menus with local specialties such as ají de lengua (cow's tongue in a chili sauce); picante surtido, which consists of sajta (chicken in a chili sauce) and saice (chopped meat in a chili sauce); and silpancho (a very thin breaded piece of veal with two fried eggs, onions, and tomatoes). Chuño putti (dehydrated potatoes mixed together with milk and cheese) is a popular side dish. Usually, these restaurants also offer more international fare such as filet mignon, pineapple chicken, pasta, and omelets. In La Paz, there are a good variety of ethnic restaurants, including Japanese, Korean, French, German, and Italian. Outside La Paz, pizza and pasta are as international as it gets. To combat altitude sickness, many people drink mate de coca, which is tea made from coca leaves. Tri-mate tea, a combination of three herbal teas, is also a popular after-dinner drink. Fresh fruit is the most popular dessert. Flan (egg custard) is also available at many local restaurants. Meals are listed according to Very Expensive, $20 and up; Expensive, $15 to $20; Moderate, $10 to $15; and Inexpensive, under $10. Prices shown don't include beverages or tax.

Health & Safety

Common Ailments -- Travelers to Bolivia should be very careful about contracting food-borne illnesses. Always drink bottled water. Never drink beverages with ice, unless you are sure that the water for the ice has been previously boiled. Be very careful about eating food purchased from street vendors. I recommend taking a vitamin such as super bromelain, which helps aid in the digestion of parasites.

Because most of the popular tourist attractions in Bolivia are at an altitude of more than 2,500m (8,200 ft.), altitude sickness can be a serious problem. Common symptoms include headaches, nausea, sleeplessness, and a tendency to tire easily. The most common remedies include rest, abstaining from alcohol, drinking lots of bottled water, chewing coca leaves, or drinking coca tea. Coca leaves are readily available at street markets, and most restaurants offer some form of coca tea. To help alleviate the symptoms, you can also take the drug acetazolamide (Diamox); it's available by prescription only in the United States.

The sun can also be very dangerous in Bolivia, especially at high altitudes. Bring plenty of high-powered sunblock and a wide-brimmed hat. It gets very cold in cities such as La Paz and Potosí, but don't let this fool you into complacency -- even when it's cold, the sun can inflict serious damage on your skin.

In general, the healthcare system in Bolivia is good enough to take care of mild illnesses.

Vaccinations -- A yellow fever vaccination is required for U.S. travelers to enter the country, but otherwise no vaccines are required. If you're planning to visit the difficult-to-reach Pantanal in the far eastern end of Bolivia, a yellow fever vaccination certificate is recommended regardless of your nationality. Additionally, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommend that visitors to Bolivia vaccinate themselves against hepatitis A. Fortunately, since mosquitoes can't live in high altitudes, malaria is not a risk in the high plateau region of Bolivia, but there have been cases reported in rural parts of the Beni area and Santa Cruz.

Regions in Brief

Bolivia sits practically in the middle of South America, sharing its borders with Peru, Chile, Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil. Landlocked since losing access to a seacoast during the Pacific War (1879-84), Bolivia still maintains a navy to protect the sacred Lake Titicaca, which it shares with Peru. Much of Bolivia is defined by the Andes Mountains. The range is at its widest in Bolivia and consists of two parallel chains here, separated by the Altiplano (high plain), the most densely populated area of the country. As you move farther east, the Andes give way to the jungle and tropical landscapes.

Because Bolivia is so vast, it's difficult to get a good feeling for the country if you have only 1 week to spend here. But you will have enough time to see all the highlights of La Paz, take a day trip to Tiwanaku, visit Lake Titicaca, and view Inca ruins on Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) and in Copacabana. If you have 2 weeks, you can also explore Sucre, tour the mines at Potosí, and relax in Santa Cruz. The more physically adventurous traveler might consider sea kayaking on Lake Titicaca, climbing Huayna Potosí, trekking around the Illampu circuit, or taking a 4-day journey through the salt flats and desert near Salar de Uyuni.

La Paz -- La Paz is the administrative capital of Bolivia. From here, you can easily travel to Lake Titicaca, which is considered to be the birthplace of the Incas. The impressive pre-Inca archaeological site, Tiwanaku, is also only 2 hours away. Drive 3 hours to the east, and you will descend into the tropical area known as Los Yungas.

Southern Altiplano -- This area made its mark on the world in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, when Potosí was one of the great silver mining centers and consequently one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Today, highlights of the region include Potosí and Sucre, both of which are historical gems.

Central Bolivia -- The area of central Bolivia extends from the pleasant town of Cochabamba, at the foothills of the Andes, all the way east to Santa Cruz. Cochabamba is one of the commercial centers of Bolivia, with several major industry headquarters here, including chicken farms, airlines, and shoe companies. Some of the most colorful markets in Bolivia take place in the rural areas outside the city. The dusty city of Santa Cruz is a good base to explore Amboró National Park, the Inca ruins of Samaipata, Jesuit missions, and the town where Che Guevara made his last stand.

Tips on Accommodations

Accommodations in Bolivia run the gamut in quality and expense. There are no world-renowned luxury hotels in Bolivia, but in both Santa Cruz and La Paz you will find some high-quality accommodations. Bolivia's specialty is historic hotels; in Sucre, you can stay in a 300-year-old mansion. Moderately priced hotels are usually spotless, with decent towels in the bathrooms. It's not uncommon to find hotels that only charge $5 a night -- just don't expect anything other than a bed.

Most hotels, except for the very best ones, don't have heat. Some hotels have a limited number of space heaters (estufas), but you must specifically request one. Otherwise, be sure to bring warm pajamas. Also note that most showers are heated by electric power. Room availability is rarely an issue in Bolivia, except in Sucre on August 6, when rooms fill for Bolivia's independence day celebrations. Hotel rooms fall under the price categories of Very Expensive, $185 and up; Expensive, $120 to $184; Moderate, $50 to $119; and Inexpensive, $49 and below.

Fast Facts

American Express -- There are two American Express travel offices in Bolivia, both run by Magri Turismo, but you can't exchange traveler's checks at either office. In La Paz, the office is on Calle Capitán Ravelo 2101 (tel. 0102/2442-727). In Santa Cruz, the office is at the intersection of Calle Warnes and Calle Potosí (tel. 0103/3334-5663).

Business Hours -- In general, business hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 12:30pm and from 2:30 to 6:30pm. In smaller towns, such as Sucre and Potosí, everything closes down from noon until 3pm. In La Paz and Santa Cruz, most banks are open from about 9am to 4pm. Some banks do close in the middle of the day, so it's best to take care of your banking needs early in the morning. Most banks, museums, and stores are open on Saturday from 10am to noon. Everything is closed on Sunday.

Doctors & Hospitals -- Clínica Cemes, Av. 6 De Agosto 2881 (tel. 0102/2430-360), and Clínica del Sur (tel. 0102/278-4001 or 278-4002), on Avenida Hernando Siles and the corner of Calle 7 in the Obrajes neighborhood, are the best hospitals in La Paz. These hospitals are also where you'll most likely find English-speaking doctors.

Drug Laws -- In Bolivia, it is legal to chew coca leaves and drink tea made from coca. (But note that it is illegal to bring these products into the U.S.) Cocaine, marijuana, and heroin are all highly illegal. Penalties are strongest for people caught selling drugs, but if you're caught buying or in possession, you're in for a lot of trouble.

Electricity -- The majority of outlets in Bolivia are 220 volts at 50 cycles. But in places such as La Paz and Potosí, it's common to see 110 volts at 50 cycles. To be on the safe side, always ask before plugging anything in.

Embassies & Consulates -- In La Paz, the embassies are: Australia, Av. Arce 2081, Edificio Montevideo (tel. 0102/2440-459); Canada, Calle Victor Sanjínez 2678, Edificio Barcelona, 2nd Floor (tel. 0102/2415-021); the United Kingdom, Av. Arce 2708 (tel. 0102/2433-424); and the United States, Av. Arce 2780 (tel. 0102/2430-120).

Emergencies -- Call tel. 110 for the police or tel. 118 for an ambulance.

Internet Access -- Internet service is available almost everywhere in Bolivia, with the possible exception of Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca. Connections in major cities cost Bs3 per hour. In more faraway places, such as Sorata and Copacabana, connections can cost up to Bs10 an hour.

Language -- Spanish is the language most commonly used in business transactions. But indigenous languages, such as Quechua and Aymara, are also widely spoken throughout the country. It's best to come to Bolivia with a basic knowledge of Spanish. Outside of the major tourist sights, it's hard to find someone who speaks English.

Liquor Laws -- The official drinking age in Bolivia is 18. At clubs you often need to show a picture ID for admittance.

Newspapers & Magazines -- La Razón (published in La Paz) is one of the most popular Spanish-language newspapers in Bolivia. El Nuevo Día (in Santa Cruz) and Los Tiempos (in Cochabamba) also provide local news for their respective regions. If you're lucky, you may find English copies of Time or Newsweek.

Police -- Throughout Bolivia, you can reach the police by dialing tel. 110. The tourist police can also help sort out your problems in nonemergency situations. In La Paz, call tel. 0102/2225-016, and in Santa Cruz, tel. 0103/3364-345.

Post Offices & Mail -- Most post offices in Bolivia are open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 8pm, Saturday from 8:30am to 6pm, and Sunday from 9am to noon. It costs Bs5 to mail a letter to the United States, Bs7 to Australia, and Bs6 to Europe. From time to time, you can buy stamps at kiosks and newspaper stands. There are no public mailboxes, so you'll have to mail your letter from the post office.

Restrooms -- The condition of public facilities is surprisingly good in Bolivia. In museums, the toilets are relatively clean, but they never have toilet paper. Note that most buses don't have toilet facilities, and on long-distance bus rides, the driver may only stop once or twice in a 12-hour stretch. And when they do stop, the facilities are often horrendous -- usually smelly, squat toilets. It's always useful to have a roll of toilet paper handy.

Safety -- La Paz and Santa Cruz are the most dangerous cities in Bolivia. You'll need to beware of camera snatchers and be careful in crowded areas and hold on tightly to your personal belongings. Watch out for thieves who try to stain your bags (usually with mustard or peanut butter); they offer to help clean you off while cleaning you out. Taxis in La Paz can also be dangerous; never get in an unmarked taxi. Legitimate cabs have bright signs on top that illuminate their telephone numbers. Before you get in, be sure to write down the cab's number. If you're ever in doubt, ask a restaurant or hotel to call you a taxi. Report all problems to the tourist police.

Smoking -- There are no public bans on smoking in Bolivia; however, most hotels have some nonsmoking rooms.

Taxes -- While the Bolivian sales tax (IVA) is officially 13%, a tax is rarely charged since most transactions are informal. You'll likely only pay the tax if staying at a high end hotel or dining at a fancy restaurant.

Telephone & Fax -- Most high-end hotels in La Paz, Santa Cruz, and Cochabamba offer international direct-dial and long-distance service and in-house fax transmission. But these calls tend to be quite expensive, as hotels often levy a surcharge, even if you're calling a toll-free access number.

Practically every single town in Bolivia has an Entel office (almost always located in the main plaza). From here, you can make local, long-distance, and international calls. It's actually much more economical to make your international calls from an Entel office than to use an international calling card. For example, for calls to the United States, AT&T, MCI, and Sprint all charge about Bs70 for the first minute and Bs16 for each additional minute, plus a 10% surcharge. Entel charges Bs5 to Bs10 per minute.

To make local calls from a public phone, you need a phone card. You can buy them at any Entel office or any kiosk on the street. The average local call costs about Bs2 for 3 minutes.

Time Zone -- Bolivia is 4 hours behind GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), except during daylight saving time, when it is 5 hours behind.

Tipping -- Restaurants in Bolivia never add a service charge. It's expected that you will add a 10% to 15% gratuity to the total bill. Taxi drivers don't expect tips. It's common to tip hotel porters about Bs4 to Bs8 per bag.

Water -- Always drink bottled water in Bolivia. Most hotels provide bottled water in the bathrooms, and you can buy bottles of water on practically any street corner. Small bottles cost about Bs1 to Bs2; large bottles cost just Bs3. Most restaurants use ice made from boiled water, but always ask to be sure.

Tips on Shopping

Handicrafts are the name of the game in Bolivia. The country's indigenous people have been creating beautiful hand-woven goods for thousands of years. In La Paz, Calle Sagárnaga is shopper's central. Here you'll have the opportunity to browse in thousands of stores selling handmade goods, including alpaca sweaters, hats, gloves, leather bags, and textile products. Besides handicrafts, you can also buy folksy good-luck charms, from llama fetuses to miniature homes (supposedly, if you buy something in miniature, you'll soon have the real thing). Local markets are also a great place to find unique gifts. The Sunday market in Tarabuco, about an hour outside Sucre, is considered one of the best in Bolivia.

Bargaining is not part of Bolivian culture -- for the most part, prices are fixed. If you play your cards right, you may be able to shave a few dollars off the asking price, but in general, most salespeople won't drop their prices significantly. Fortunately, prices are already rock bottom.

Entry Requirements & Customs

A valid passport is required to enter and depart Bolivia. In 2007, the Bolivian government announced that all U.S. citizens are also required to have a visa to enter the country, which can be purchased on arrival in the country for $135, and you must have a yellow fever vaccination. On rare occasions evidence of return flights, proof of funds, or hotel reservations are asked for. Visas, which last for 5 years, can also be applied for before your journey at the nearest Bolivian consulate. Visas are not required for stays of up to 30 days if you're a citizen of one of 44 designated countries, which include the United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, France, Germany, and Switzerland. (Visit www.bolivia-usa.org, or check with your local embassy to determine whether you'll need a visa.) It's very easy to extend the visa for an additional 60 days by requesting one at a branch of the Oficina de Migración (Immigration Office). In La Paz, the office is located at Camacho 1433. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 12:30pm and 3 to 6pm; it's best to go late in the afternoon. For more information, call tel. 0800/10-3007.

Bolivian Embassy & Consulate Locations

In Australia: The Consulate of the Republic of Bolivia is located at 74 Pitt St, Level 6, Sydney NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9235-1858)

In Canada: 130 Albert St., Suite 416, Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4 (tel. 613/236-5730; fax 613/236-8237)

In the U.K.: 106 Eaton Square, London SW1W 9AD (tel. 020/7235-4248 or 020/7235-2257; fax 020/7235-1286; embolivia-londres@rree.gov.bo)

In the U.S.: 3014 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/483-4410; fax 202/328-3712; www.bolivia-usa.org)

Customs

Visitors to Bolivia are legally permitted to bring in up to $2,000 worth of items for personal use. If you bring in any new consumer goods with a value of more than $1,000, you must declare it at Customs.

There are very strict laws regarding removing national treasures. Beware: The Customs officials at the airports do search every person (for both drugs and national treasures) leaving the country.

Getting There

By Plane

At 3,900m (just under 13,000 ft.), La Paz's El Alto Airport (airport code LPB; tel. 0102/2810-122) is one of the highest commercial airports in the world. Large planes, such as 747s, cannot land at such a high altitude; even smaller planes have to make sure that they have a light load before touching down. For this reason, very few international flights fly directly into La Paz and instead land in Santa Cruz. All international passengers leaving by air from Bolivia must pay a Bs170 departure tax.

From North America -- American Airlines (tel. 800/100-229, 0102/2372010; www.aa.com) offers nonstop flights from the United States (via Miami) to La Paz. Aerosur (tel. 0102/2817-281; www.aerosur.com) offers nonstop flights from Miami to Santa Cruz, with connecting flights to La Paz. Taca (tel. 800/535-8780; www.taca.com) offers flights from New York to La Paz, but you have to change planes both in San José, Costa Rica, and Lima, Peru. Currently, there are no direct flights from Canada to Bolivia. Canadian travelers must catch a connecting flight in Miami. LAN (tel. 866/435-9526; www.lan.com) offers flights to Miami and New York from Santa Cruz and La Paz, connecting in Lima.

From the U.K. -- There are no direct flights from the United Kingdom to Bolivia. One good option is to connect with Aerosur (tel. 0102/2817-881; www.aerosur.com) in Madrid and fly directly to Santa Cruz. You can fly American Airlines (tel. 020/8572-5555 in London, or 0102/2872-010 in La Paz; www.aa.com) direct from London to Miami, and then from Miami nonstop to La Paz. LAN (tel. 866/435-9526; www.lan.com) flies from Madrid to Lima, with connecting flights to La Paz or Santa Cruz. Alternatively, Gol Linhas Aeréas (tel. 01080/0102-131; www.voegol.com.br) offers direct flights from London to São Paulo, Brazil; from there, Gol offers a daily flight to Santa Cruz.

From Australia -- Get ready for a long flight. The easiest way to get to Bolivia from Australia is to hop on an Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 800/222-215; www.aerolineas.com.ar) flight from Sydney to Buenos Aires. From there, Aerolíneas Argentinas offers daily flights to Santa Cruz. LAN (tel. 866/435-9526; www.lan.com) has a similar route from Sydney with stops in Santiago and Lima. Another route includes flying from Australia to Los Angeles to Miami and then on to La Paz. Qantas (tel. 13-13-13; www.qantas.com.au) offers flights from Australia to Los Angeles -- but from there, you must switch to American Airlines to Miami and then Bolivia.

By Bus

It is possible to travel by bus to Bolivia from Peru, Argentina, and Brazil. Usually, the bus routes end at the border, and you'll have to cross on your own and pick up another bus once you arrive in Bolivia. The most popular international route is from Puno, Peru, to Copacabana or La Paz. Nuevo Continente, Calle Sagárnaga 340 (between Illampu and Linares), La Paz (tel. 0102/2373-423), can arrange trips from both La Paz and Copacabana to Puno and beyond.

Getting Around

Getting around Bolivia is often unpleasant. Only about 5% of all the roads in the country are paved. Flying is a much better option, though expect delays and always reconfirm your reservations.

By Plane

Traveling by plane is my preferred method of travel in Bolivia. Flights aren't too expensive ($40-$100) and tickets can be bought at short notice with no rise in price. Because the roads are so bad in Bolivia, it's really worthwhile to spend the extra money to fly. Additionally, if you take a plane instead of a bus, you will save at least 12 hours in travel time. Air travel has improved immensely, but it is imperative that you reconfirm your flight, or you might miss it (and the next departing flight might not leave for another 27 hr.!). After check-in, make sure you pay the airport tax, known as tasa. Also, always hold onto your boarding card to prove luggage ownership at the other end.

Aero Sur, Av. 16 de Julio 1616, La Paz (tel. 0102/2312-244; www.aerosur.com), is the largest airline in Bolivia, with a fleet of planes and routes to every major city. Other Bolivian airlines include Amaszonas (tel. 0102/2222-0848; www.amaszonas.com.bo), which flies to jungle areas such as Rurrenbaque and Trinidad); TAM (tel. 0102/2268-1101), which flies to major cities; and BOA (tel. 0102/4414-0873; www.boa.bo), which flies to La Paz, Sucre, and Santa Cruz. I must warn you that these flights are not for the faint of heart. Delays are common and landings are harrowing, as the thin air and short runways usually dictate a fast approach.

By Bus

Traveling by bus in Bolivia has its charms, including economical bus fares and a chance to interact with "real" Bolivians. (You may even have the opportunity to sit next to live chickens.) But overall, buses are horribly slow and uncomfortable and have a terrible safety record. Most buses don't have bathrooms, and bus drivers don't like to stop along their route -- some 12-hour bus rides will only make two bathroom stops during the entire journey. Buses are often crowded because most drivers will pick up anyone who needs a ride, regardless of how much space is left on the bus. Passengers sit on the floor, and then more passengers sit on their laps. Also, beware of strapping your bags to the top of buses since you might lose them along the way. Keep in mind, too, that 95% of the roads in Bolivia are unpaved, which means that 160km (100-mile) journeys can take more than 12 hours. In the rainy season, from October through April, some roads may become impassable.

Overall, if you have a lot of time and not much money, the buses in Bolivia are perfectly adequate. If you're traveling on an overnight bus, I highly recommend splurging for the bus cama (buses where the seats recline enough to almost resemble a bed). Bus camas usually only cost Bs20 to Bs30 more than the regular bus. Most bus companies offer very similar services. One of the most reputable companies is Flota Copacabana (tel. 0102/2281-596). Always have loose change to tip the baggage handler if you're storing your baggage below. With the better companies, you will receive a security ticket to retrieve your luggage later. It is always wise to sit on the right of the bus to keep an eye on luggage as people board and alight during the journey. Be prepared to pay a small bus terminal tax as you board.

By Car

In Bolivia, there are 49,311km (30,573 miles) of highway. Guess how many of those are paved? A whopping 2,496km (1,548 miles). That's it. For the other 46,815km (29,025 miles), you're stuck on some of the bumpiest and most poorly maintained roads in the world. Additionally, there are no signs anywhere, so it's quite easy to get lost. If you decide to be adventurous and explore Bolivia by car, be sure to rent a 4X4. You'll definitely need it, especially in the rainy season (Oct-Apr), when most of the roads turn to mud.

Localiza Rent A Car (tel. 0800/2050; www.localiza.com) is one of the largest car-rental companies in the country. Hertz has offices in La Paz (tel. 0102/2772-929), Santa Cruz (tel. 0103/3336-010), and Cochabamba (tel. 0104/4450-081). Avis has offices at the La Paz (tel. 0102/2211-1870) and Santa Cruz (tel. 0103/3343-3939) airports. The rate for 4X4 vehicles ranges from Bs350 to Bs650 per day, including insurance. To rent a car in Bolivia, you must be at least 21 and have a valid driver's license and a passport.