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Galleria Marescalchi, Via Mascarella 116B (tel. 051-240368), features traditional art, offering paintings and prints for view or sale by native son Morandi and Italian modern master De Chirico, as well as Chagall and Magritte.

An array of breads, pasta, and pastries makes Atti, Via Caprarie 7 (tel. 051-220425), tempting whether you're hungry or not. Among the pastries are the Bolognese specialty certosino, a heavy loaf resembling fruitcake, and an assortment of gastronomie (delectable heat-and-serve starters and main courses made fresh at the shop). If you want chocolate, head to Majani, Via Carbonesi 5 (tel. 051-234302), which claims to be Italy's oldest sweets shop, having made and sold confections since 1796. A wide assortment of chocolates awaits you, accompanied by several types of cookies; at Easter, the shop also makes chocolate eggs, rabbits, and lambs. Roccati, Via Clavature 17A (tel. 051-261-964), is run by a husband-and-wife team that is still celebrated for the gianduja chocolate their ancestors made for the princes of Savoy. In their open-air laboratory, you can see these heavenly delights being created. When you bite into their Cognac-filled chocolates, you'll think you've entered Paradise before your time. At Tamburini [ST], Via Caprarie 1 (tel. 051-234726), one of Italy's most lavish food shops, you can choose from an incredible array of gastronomie, including meats and fish, soups and salads, vegetables, and sweets, as well as fresh pasta to prepare at home.

If you have hard-to-fit feet, walk to Piero, Via delle Lame 56 (tel. 051-558680), for attractive footwear for men and women in large sizes, ranging up to European size 53 for men (American size 20) and size 46 for women (American size 14). Bruno Magli quickly made a name for himself after opening his first shoe factory in 1934. Today, a Bruno Magli shop selling leather bags, jackets, and coats for men and women -- in addition to shoes -- is at Galleria Cavour 9 (tel. 051-266915).

A range of woman's clothing is available at Paris, Texas, Via Altabella 11 (tel. 051-225741), including (but not limited to) designer evening wear; the location at Via dell'Indipendenza 67/2 (tel. 051-241994) focuses more on casuals such as jeans and T-shirts.

The Veronesi family has been closely tied to the jewelry trade for centuries. Now split up and competing among themselves, the various factions are represented by F. Veronesi & Figli, Piazza Maggiore 4 (tel. 051-224835), which offers contemporary jewelry, watches, and silver using ancient designs; and Giulio Veronesi, with locations at Piazza di Re Enzo 1H (tel. 051-234237) and Galleria Cavour 1 (tel. 051-234196), which sells modern jewelry and Rolex watches.

The World's Greatest China Shop

Faenza, 58km (36 miles) southeast of Bologna, has lent its name to a form of ceramics called faience, which originated on the island of Majorca, off Spain's coast. Faenza potters found inspiration in the work coming out of Majorca, and in the 12th century they began to produce their own designs, characterized by brilliant colors and floral decorations. The art reached its pinnacle in the 16th century, when the "hot-fire" process was perfected, during which ceramics were baked at a temperature of 1,742°F (950°C).

The legacy of this fabled industry is preserved at the International Museum of Ceramics (Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche), Via Campidori 2 (tel. 0546-697311; www.micfaenza.org), called "the world's greatest china shop." Housed here are works from the artisans of Faenza as well as from around the world, including pre-Columbian pottery from Peru. Of exceptional interest are Etruscan and Egyptian ceramics and a wide-ranging collection from the Orient, dating from the Roman Empire.

Deserving special attention is the section devoted to modern ceramic art, including works by Matisse and Picasso. On display are Picasso vases and a platter with his dove of peace, a platter in rich colors by Chagall, a "surprise" from Matisse, and a framed ceramic plaque of the Crucifixion by Georges Rouault. Another excellent work is a ceramic woman by Dante Morozzi. Even the great Léger tried his hand at ceramics.

From November to March, the museum is open Tuesday through Thursday from 9:30am to 1:30pm, Friday to Sunday from 9:30am to 5:30pm. From April to October, hours are Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30am to 7pm. Admission is 6€ ($8.70). It's closed New Year's Day, May 1, August 15, and Christmas.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.