Asta

Noma, the Scandinavian restaurant considered by many to be the finest in the world, has acted as a finishing school of sorts for many young chefs. Their number includes Alex Crabbe of Asta, who interned in Copenhagen many years ago, mastering that kitchen's forage-to-fork techniques. He now applies them to ingredients of New England's forests, seashore and farms, in innovative ways and with less-usual ingredients, so your meal might include a dandelion crisp, some powdered seaweed or venison liver (the menu changes nightly). Surprising but pleasing flavors are the norm here, as are artistic platings. All is served in a small, woodsy room with tablecloth-free tables that contain a fun surprise: each has a drawer containing vintage, mismatched silver. Guests decide, with each course, which utensil to use. Two tips: Unlike other restaurants Asta doesn't require that everyone at the table order the same tasting menu. So to get a broader taste of Chef Crabbe's artistry, order the five-course one at the eight-course one, and then share the results. We also recommend requesting one of the seats that overlooks the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs making their magic.