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You don't eat at any restaurant in Chinatown for the service (surly) or the ambiance (non-existant). Instead you look at the offerings and then hopefully gravitate to Dumpling House because there are few cuisines as soul-warming as dim sum, and it's the real stuff here. I'm talking soup dumplings that gush savory broth with every bite, delish roasted duck buns and even some unusual treats like Taiwanese oyster pancakes. Be careful with the spicy dishes: they're authentically chili-laden, making no concessions to wimpy American palates.