Emphatic Middle Eastern flavors, seasonal ingredients, and a cozy atmosphere give longtime Oleana its deserved status as a top Cambridge go-to. In cold weather its moussaka—made with smoky eggplant puree, crispy cauliflower, and mint—is a shot of summer, as is its lemon chicken with za’atar spice. Don’t miss executive pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick’s baked Alaska with coconut ice cream and passion fruit caramel. In good weather, there’s a delightful patio. Star chef Ana Sortun has opened similar Turkish-tinged venues in recent years, including the always-packed Sofra Bakery and Café (p. ###), west of Harvard Square at 1 Belmont St.