Venture beyond Kenmore Square to cross two international borders at the Elephant Walk. The well-prepared French dishes are classics, such as roast chicken and boeuf bourguignon, but it’s with the Cambodian side of the menu that the kitchen shines. The stir-fries and noodle dishes are wonderful, but my favorite dishes are the less familiar amor royal (spicy steamed coconut-milk custard, served with rice) and loc lac (beef tenderloin chunks flavored with pepper, garlic, and mushroom soy). Vegetarians, vegans, and diners with gluten issues eat very well here, and the welcoming staff can offer helpful suggestions.