Planning a trip to Brazil

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

At first glance, Brazil is not a very vegetarian-friendly country. Indeed, the all-you-can-eat grilled churrasco meat orgy that Brazilians love so much is likely a vegetarian's worst nightmare. Don't expect much sympathy from Brazilians either. They will not understand why anybody would even want to be a vegetarian. That said, Brazil is also a country with a lot of fruit and vegetables, and many of the restaurants that serve meat will also have fabulous salads, vegetable dishes, and pastas. If you eat fish and seafood you will be able to eat almost anywhere. If you don't eat meat but are okay with eating in restaurants that serve meat, you'll be fine.

Getting Around

By Plane

Though there are highways and buses, the sheer vastness of Brazil (and the absence of rail travel) makes air travel the only viable option for those who want to visit a variety of cities and regions. However, the Brazilian airline industry has been experiencing turbulent times of late. The last 6 years has seen the bankruptcy of two Brazilian carriers, Transbrasil and Vasp, followed by the near demise of the country's flagship carrier Varig. A new, smaller Varig flew out of bankruptcy protection, minus most of its international and domestic routes. On top of that there has been ongoing labor unrest among air-traffic controllers, set off by a mid-air collision over the Amazon, the blame for which controllers felt was unfairly placed on them. And as if that wasn't enough, a still-unexplained crash (investigators are leaning toward pilot error) at São Paulo's busiest domestic hub led to a complete re-shuffling of Brazil's domestic air routes. All of which has meant delays, delays, cancellations, and more delays. The president sacked the head of the civilian air agency in mid-2007, and the new chief seems to be bringing order back to the skies. However, travelers should stock up on patience before entering a Brazilian airport. (It may well not be required, but you never know). During peak travel times (holidays, high season) long delays are a not unlikely occurrence.

The big winner from all this uproar has been domestic no-frills carrier Gol, which now even offers international flights within South America. Tam has also increased the number of destinations, internationally and domestically.

For those traveling larger distances in Brazil there is also the option of purchasing an air pass with Tam (much to the envy of Brazilians this pass is available to foreigners only). The pass offers travelers four flights within a 21-day period. Air passes need to be purchased and booked outside of Brazil. Only limited changes are allowed once you arrive in the country. Also, it's a good idea to read the small print before choosing your pass. Often flights between Rio and São Paulo's downtown airports are excluded (meaning you have to use the international airports) and the pass does not allow returns on the same stretch.

TAM (tel. 0800/123-100 in Brazil; www.tam.com.br) offers four segments for US$479 if you arrive on an international Tam flight (otherwise the pass costs US$560), with the option of a fifth leg for another US$120. The pass is valid for 21 days. Check TAM's special English-language site for more details on the air pass (www.tamairlines.com). If you're traveling to only one or two destinations within Brazil, it can be cheaper to skip the air pass and buy a separate ticket. You can check the prices with TAM or Gol (tel. 0300/789-2121 in Brazil; www.voegol.com.br). This airline has modeled itself after American discount carriers like Southwest Airlines -- quick bookings online and no-frills flights between popular destinations such as Rio, São Paulo, Salvador, Recife, Fortaleza, Manaus, Belém, Campo Grande, and Brasilia. Tickets can be purchased at the airport or on the Internet. The company flies brand-new Boeing 737s and provides friendly and efficient service.

Domestic Travel Do's and Don'ts -- There are a few tricks to avoiding delays and cancellations when flying domestically in Brazil. First up, if at all possible, avoid flights stopping or connecting through São Paulo. That may be hard to do; the city serves as Brazil's major hub, and its airports as a result have a tendency to get clogged and backed up. Second, travel early in the day: Delays tend to accumulate throughout the day and lead to bigger and bigger backlogs. Third, don't book tight connections, especially if you have to transfer from the domestic airport in Rio or São Paulo to the international airport. For a simple connection within the same airport, give yourself an hour. For a transfer from domestic to international airports, allow for at least 2 hours in Rio and 3 hours in São Paulo.

By Bus

Bus travel in Brazil is comfortable, efficient, and affordable. The only problem is, it's a long way from anywhere to anywhere else. Tickets can be purchased ahead of time with reserved seats. All buses are nonsmoking, and in most cases people adhere to the regulations. On many popular routes travelers can opt for a deluxe coach with air-conditioning and leito (seats that recline almost flat).

By Car

Car rentals are expensive, and the distances are huge. From Recife to Brasilia is 2,121km (1,315 miles); Salvador to Rio is a 1,800km (1,116-mile) drive. Within Brazilian cities, renting a car is only for the bold and foolish: Drivers are aggressive, rules sporadically applied, and parking a competitive sport. That said, there are occasions -- a side trip to the mountain resorts of Rio, a visit to the historic towns of Minas Gerais, or a drive to the Chapada dos Guimarães outside of Cuiabá -- where a car makes sense. Contact numbers for rental companies are given in each chapter.

Each company normally has a national rate, and only rarely are there local discounts or special offers. For a tiny car (a Fiat Palio or Gol) with air-conditioning, you can typically expect to pay around R$70 (US$35/£19) per day plus R$.55 (US27¢/£.15) per kilometer or R$110 (US$55/£30) per day with unlimited mileage. Add to that another R$30 (US$15/£8) per day for comprehensive insurance. Gasoline costs R$2.60 (US$1.30/£.70) per liter, about US$4.50/gallon. Officially you need an international driver's license but we have never encountered any problems having a U.S., Canadian, or European license. To obtain an international license, contact your local automobile association. While expensive, the comprehensive insurance is probably a good idea as Brazilian drivers are not as gentle with their cars as folks in North America. Bumpers are meant to be used, Brazilians believe, and if a bit of nudging is required to get into that parking spot, so be it. Note that Embratur warns travelers to avoid the cheaper local car-rental companies, which sometimes skip on the requisite insurance and maintenance.

Tips for Families

Brazilians love kids. They will go out of their way to please children, yours and everyone else's. In fact you will see children out and about a lot more than in the U.S. or Canada, even at restaurants, bars, or late-night events. Perhaps because Brazilian children are used to going out a lot more, they seem to always behave very well in public, playing with other kids or amusing themselves, with few of the hissy fits that sometimes accompany evenings out with North American youngsters. Traveling with children is a wonderful way to meet Brazilians, as people will be receptive, friendly, and inquisitive. Hotels are very accommodating but do usually charge 10% to 25% extra for children over the age of 6 or 12 who stay in the same room as a parent or guardian. In most hotels, the age limit and the amount of extra percentage charged can be flexible and is certainly worth bargaining over.

If a child is traveling with people other than his or her parents, or even if the child is only traveling with one of his or her parents, it is a good idea to have a notarized letter from the parents confirming permission for the child to travel. Buses and airlines sometimes demand such a letter before allowing a child to board. For even greater safety, have the notarized letter stamped by the Brazilian consulate or embassy. (Please contact the Brazilian consulate or embassy for further information.) Brazilians can be incredibly picky (in moments of frustration in dealing with Brazilian bureaucrats we have used words other than "picky") when it comes to paperwork; showing an embassy stamp makes a difference because that means that somebody in authority has already approved it.

Tips for Women Travelers

Machismo is alive and well in Brazil, but it's a kinder, gentler machismo than in other parts of Latin America. Single women and a few women traveling together will undoubtedly attract masculine attention. There are upsides to this. It's usually fairly harmless and can sometimes lead to some fun conversations. Brazilian men, it seems, have an insurmountable urge to flirt. Perhaps because flirting is such a way of life, they take rejection well. Indeed, the object of the exercise lies mostly in the act of flirtation itself -- actually making a conquest appears to be not terribly important. Wearing a wedding ring (fake or real) will throw up only the flimsiest of barriers; it will be either completely ignored, seen as a challenge, or solicit questions such as "How married are you?" or "What kind of husband would let you out of his sight?" However, if you are not interested, just say so or walk away if necessary and that is usually enough. The downside is that it's difficult for a woman to go out for a drink by herself and not receive attention. If you're not comfortable with this, you may want to form up a mixed group with other travelers or else stick to higher-end restaurants or hotel bars. Brazilian women in groups of two or three often link arms or hold hands as a sign that they are not interested in male attention. Use common sense to avoid situations where you may find yourself alone with someone giving you unwanted attention. At night, taking taxis is safer than walking by yourself.

Some hotels, particularly in larger cities, now offer women-only floors. The Metrô in Rio has women-only cars -- painted pastel pink -- for the exclusive use of women travelers during rush hours.

Health & Insurance

Standards for hygiene and public health in Brazil are generally high. Before leaving, however, check with your doctor or with the Centers for Disease Control (www.cdc.gov) for specific advisories. Use common sense when eating on the street or in restaurants.

Common Ailments

Dengue Fever -- Dengue fever is a viral infection transmitted by mosquitoes. It's unfortunately common in Rio de Janeiro. It's characterized by sudden-onset high fever, severe headaches, joint and muscle pain, nausea/vomiting, and rash. (The rash may not appear until 3-4 days after the fever.) Proper diagnosis requires a blood test. The illness may last up to 10 days, but complete recovery can take 2 to 4 weeks. Dengue is rarely fatal.

The risk for dengue fever is highest during periods of heat and rain, where stagnant pools of water allow mosquitoes to breed. Though it strikes most often in poorer communities, the disease has infiltrated Rio's more affluent neighborhoods. There is no vaccine for dengue fever. Symptoms can be treated with bed rest, fluids, and medications to reduce fever, such as acetaminophen (Tylenol); aspirin should be avoided. The most important precaution a traveler can take is to avoid mosquito bites in dengue-prone areas. Try to remain in well-screened or air-conditioned areas, use mosquito repellents (preferably those containing DEET) on skin and clothing, and sleep with bed nets. For up-to-date information on the status of dengue fever in Brazil, consult the Centers for Disease Control website (www.cdc.gov) before departing.

Sun Exposure -- The Brazilian sun is very strong, particularly in summer (the North American winter, when many travelers from above the Equator can be quite pale). Sunscreen of at least SPF 15 should be applied frequently.

Insect/Animal Bites -- Tourists rarely encounter snakes and are even more rarely bitten. You'll find ticks most everywhere in Brazil, but the only place I considered them a nuisance was hiking in highland areas like the Chapada Diamantina inland from Salvador or the Chapada Guimarães near Cuiabá.

Malaria -- There is malaria endemic to the Amazon or the Pantanal, though it's not very common. Still, a malaria prophylaxis (usually pills that you take daily) may be recommended.

AIDS & STDs -- According to recent UN statistics, Brazil has the dubious honor of ranking third in the world for total number of people with HIV infections. Though condom usage is becoming more accepted -- thanks in part to the examples shown in popular nighttime soaps on TV -- the reality is that some people still won't use them, and AIDS and other STDs are still being spread. So be careful and be safe -- always insist on using a condom. Though condoms are readily available in Brazilian pharmacies, it's best to bring your own; brands are more reliable in North America and Europe. To purchase condoms in Brazil ask for a preservativo or a camisinha (kah-mee-zeen-ya), literally a small shirt; the latter word is the commonly used term for condom.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance. In most cases, however, your existing health plan will provide all the coverage you need. However it is wise to check any conditions and/or limitations on your coverage. Be sure to carry your identification card in your wallet.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage. Carry written prescriptions in generic, not brand-name, form, and dispense all prescription medications from their original labeled vials. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out.

If you do wind up with traveler's tummy or some other ailment (upset stomach, diarrhea, sunburn, or rash), Brazilian pharmacies are a wonder. Each has a licensed pharmacist who is trained to deal with small medical emergencies and can make recommendations for treatment. The service is free and medication is fairly inexpensive. If you take medication that may need replacement while in Brazil, ask your doctor to write out the active ingredients of the prescription, as many drugs are sold under different trade names in Brazil. Many drugs available by prescription only in the U.S. and Canada are available over-the-counter in Brazil. While this is incredibly convenient, the downside is that Brazilians are the world's biggest pill-poppers who will happily "prescribe" drugs for themselves or their relatives or friends at the slightest whiff of sickness.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 in the U.S. and Canada or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org). This organization offers tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you'll be visiting, and lists many local English-speaking doctors. When you're abroad, any local consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English (though it may be hard to find one with more than a basic knowledge of English, even in larger cities). If you do get sick, you may want to ask the concierge at your hotel to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. This will probably yield a better recommendation than any 800 number would. If you can't find a doctor who can help you right away, try the emergency room at the local hospital.

Safety

Sometime in the 1980s Brazil began developing a world reputation for violence and crime. Rio especially was seen as the sort of place where walking down the street was openly asking for a mugging. Some of this was pure sensationalism, but there was a good measure of truth as well. Brazil at the time was massively in debt to First World banks, and the combination of crippling interest payments and International Monetary Fund austerity measures left governments at all levels with no money for basics, such as street lighting and police, much less schools and hospitals.

Fortunately, in the early '90s things began to turn around. The debt crisis eased, leaving governments with some discretionary spending, and with the advent of the 1992 World Environment Conference in Rio, Brazilians realized they had a serious image problem on their hands. Governments began putting money back into basic services, starting with policing. Cops were stationed on city streets, on public beaches, and anywhere else there seemed to be a problem. At the same time governments began working on extending water and sanitation to some of the city's poorer residents in the favelas (shantytowns).

The long expansion that followed made massive new investments in tourism infrastructure feasible. Many cities got brand-new airports. A domestic tourism boom ensued, making the protection of tourists even more of a political imperative. Nowadays, though still not perfect by any means, Rio, São Paulo, and Brazil's other big cities have bounced back to the point where they're as safe as some large international cities.

Statistically, of course, Rio and other big Brazilian cities still have very high crime rates, including high rates of violent crime. Most of that crime, however, takes place in the favelas and shantytowns of the far-off industrial outskirts. Brazil is a highly unequal society and the burden of crime and violence falls disproportionately (and unfairly) on the country's poor. But unless you go wandering unaccompanied into a hillside favela (not recommended), you're unlikely to be affected.

That said, in large centers such as São Paulo, Rio, Salvador, and Recife, common-sense rules still apply. Don't flash your valuables. Diamond rings and Rolex wristwatches are a no-no. Always have a few small bills ready in your pocket or bag to avoid pulling out your wallet in public places. Plan your sightseeing trips to the city's central core during office hours when there are lots of people about. By all means bring your camera or video camera, but keep it inside a backpack or purse, and only take it out when you want to use it. Don't stroll Copacabana beach at 3am with R$1,000 in your pocket and a video camera pressed to your eyeball (a true story, alas). And though public transit is safe during the day and evening, watch for pickpockets when it gets really packed, and come nightfall, use taxis instead. Be careful at night; stick to the main streets where there is traffic and other pedestrians, and avoid dark alleys or deserted streets.

Perhaps even more importantly, keep your wits about you in traffic! Brazilian drivers (with a few exceptions) show no respect for pedestrians and there's no such thing as pedestrian right of way. So be very careful when crossing the street, particularly at night when drivers will often run red lights. Also pay special attention when crossing one-way streets; many drivers, especially those who drive motorcycles or delivery bicycles, think that the one-way rule does not apply to them and will happily go the wrong way.

Getting There

By Plane -- The major international gateway to Brazil is São Paulo's Guarulhos international airport (GRU). Most international airways have flights to Guarulhos, and it is possible to connect to all other cities in Brazil. The other major gateway is Rio de Janeiro's Galeão International airport (GIG). Though a modern international airport, Galeão has fewer direct flights to other Brazilian cities; you may have to connect through São Paulo or Brasilia.

The two big Brazilian airlines -- Gol/Varig and TAM -- also operate a number of international flights. TAM (tel. 888/2FLY-TAM [235-9826] in the U.S. and Canada, 020/8897-0005 in the U.K., or 0800/570-5700 in Brazil; www.tam.com.br) has the most international connections to North America, Europe, Asia, and the rest of South America. Relative newcomer, low-budget carrier Gol (tel. 0300/115-2121 in Brazil; www.voegol.com.br) now offers service to a number of South American destinations (Argentina, Chile, Peru, and Bolivia), a good alternative for those traveling within South America.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year's Celebration, Rio de Janeiro. Close to two million people gather for one of the most spectacular New Year's celebrations in the world. Starting on the evening of December 31 (Reveillon, New Year's Eve) and continuing well into the morning of January 1, the main event takes place on Copacabana beach with live music and fireworks, as well as Candomblé religious ceremonies. For details contact Riotur (tel. 021/2271-7000; www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) or Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080).

Three Kings Festival, Salvador. Salvador celebrates the Three Kings Festival with a procession and events around the Praça da Sé in the old town. Contact Bahiatursa (tel. 071/3103-3103; www.bahia.com.br) for details. January 6.

Washing of the Steps of Bonfim Church, Salvador. This is one of the most important religious ceremonies in Salvador when hundreds of women in traditional Bahian dress form a procession and carry perfumed water to wash the church steps, accompanied by 800,000 onlookers and revelers. Contact Bahiatursa (tel. 071/3103-3103; www.bahia.com.br) for details. Third Thursday of January.

Saint Sebastian Day, Rio de Janeiro. The patron saint of Rio de Janeiro is honored in this regional holiday. The highlight is a procession to the city's modern cathedral. For details contact Riotur (tel. 021/2271-7000; www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) or Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080). January 20.

February

Celebration of Yemanjá, the Goddess of the Sea, Salvador. Devotees throughout Brazil offer flowers, perfumes, and jewelry to the sea. Celebrations take place on the beach with music and food. The largest celebration takes place in Salvador on Praia Vermelha. Contact Bahiatursa (tel. 071/3103-3103; www.bahia.com.br) for details. February 2.

Carnaval. This event can take place anywhere from early February to mid-March. Carnaval begins the weekend before Ash Wednesday and ends on the morning of Ash Wednesday. For the next 2 years, the dates are as follows: March 5-8, 2011, February 18-21, 2012. The largest celebrations take place in Rio, Salvador, and Recife/Olinda. For details contact Riotur (tel. 021/2271-7000; www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) or Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080); in Salvador contact Bahiatursa (tel. 071/3103-3103; www.bahia.com.br); the Recife tourist office (tel. 081/3232-8409); and Olinda tourism (tel. 081/3439-9434). Book ahead if you plan on attending this event.

March

Passion Play, Nova Jerusalem. South America's largest Passion Play (daily) takes place in Nova Jerusalem, just outside of Recife in Brazil's Northeast. For more information contact Recife Tourist Information at (tel. 081/3232-8409). Ten days preceding Easter.

April

Easter Weekend (Semana Santa), Ouro Preto. This important Catholic holiday is celebrated with processions and concerts. Ouro Preto, with its 13 baroque churches, is a popular destination during Easter. Contact Ouro Preto Tourist Information (tel. 031/3551-1469; www.ouropreto.org.br) for details. April 4, 2010, and April 24, 2011.

Week of the Inconfidência. Tiradentes Day on April 21 is a national holiday, but only Ouro Preto has made it into a large event with celebrations, plays, and cultural events taking place. Contact Ouro Preto Tourist Information (tel. 031/3551-1469; www.ouropreto.org.br) for details. April 16 to April 21.

June

Bumba-meu-boi, São Luis. In São Luis in Maranhão, the peasant folklore festival bumba-meu-boi begins June 1 with the baptizing of the bull, and continues throughout the month, culminating with a large street party on June 30, the feast day of São Marçal. In São Luis, contact the State Tourism Agency (tel. 098/3231-2000; www.turismo.ma.gov.br).

Festas Juninas. This folklore event in honor of saints Anthony, John, and Peter is celebrated throughout Brazil. The harvest festival offers country music, bonfires, hot-air balloons, and funfairs. For details contact Riotur (tel. 021/2271-7000; www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) or Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080). June 13 to June 14.

Bauernfest, Petrópolis. Petrópolis celebrates the German heritage of its many settlers with a week of German food, folklore, and music. Contact the Petrópolis Foundation of Culture and Tourism (tel. 0800/024-1516; www.petropolis.rj.gov.br) for details. Last weekend of June and first week of July.

July

FLIP, Paraty. Don't miss FLIP (Festa Literária Internacional de Paraty). The Paraty International Literary Festival, held near the beginning of July, draws a cultured crowd to one of the most charming colonial towns in Brazil. See www.flip.org.br or contact the Paraty tourist information office (tel. 024/3371-1897) or the FLIP festival office in Paraty (tel. 024/3371-7082) for details. First week of July.

September

Independence Day. This is Brazil's national holiday. Most cities hold military parades. In Rio de Janeiro this impressive event takes place around Avenida Rio Branco. September 7.

Film Festival Rio BR, Rio de Janeiro. Rio's film festival showcases Brazilian and international films (www.festivaldorio.com.br). Subtitles are in Portuguese, but there is usually a good selection of international movies. For details contact Riotur (tel. 021/2271-7000; www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) or Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080). Late September to the first week of October.

October

Free Jazz Festival, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. A 3-day jazz festival with national and international acts. For details contact Riotur (tel. 021/2271-7000; www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com.br) or Alô Rio (tel. 021/2542-8080). In São Paulo contact the tourist information agency (tel. 011/3231-4455 or 2226-0400). Mid- to late October.

Cirio of Nazaré, Belém. Hundreds of thousands of the faithful parade an icon of the Virgin of Nazaré through the streets and harbor of Belém. Contact Paratur (tel. 091/3212-0575; www.paraturismo.pa.gov.br). Second Sunday of October (Oct 10, 2010, and Oct 9, 2011).

International Film Festival, São Paulo. The festival presents the best films of Brazil, Latin America, and the world. Most venues concentrate around the Avenida Paulista. Contact tel. 011/3141-0413, or check www.mostra.org. Last 2 weeks of October.

Grand Prix, São Paulo. Brazilians are car-racing fanatics; watching a big race in the company of Brazilian fans is an event in itself. The Grand Prix at Interlagos (a suburb of São Paulo) is the prime event in the country. Contact www.gpbrasil.com.br for more information, or call the tourist office in São Paulo (tel. 011/3231-4455 or 2226-0400). Third week of October. Check website for exact dates.

São Paulo Bienal. Art, theater, music, and architecture -- the biggest arts event in Latin America takes place every even year in Ibirapuera Park. For schedules and information contact the Fundação Bienal de São Paulo (tel. 011/5576-7600; www.bienalsaopaulo.org.br).

November

Aleijadinho Week, Ouro Preto. Special exhibits and presentations about the beloved sculptor. Contact Ouro Preto Tourist Information (tel. 031/3551-1469; www.ouropreto.org.br) for details. November 14 to November 21.

December

Santa Barbara, Salvador. This festival is celebrated with processions, music, and dance. Santa Barbara is the Candomblé equivalent of Iansã, the goddess of wind. Contact Bahiatursa (tel. 071/3103-3103; www.bahia.com.br) for details. December 4.

Christmas Eve. Brazilians go to midnight Mass to celebrate Christmas. Mass is usually followed by a late-night supper with family. December 24.

Tips for Black Travelers

Black travelers shouldn't encounter much in the way of discrimination. However, mixed couples (particularly where the woman is black and the man is not) may encounter discrimination in hotels or bars because people may assume that the woman is a Brazilian prostitute who has hooked up with a gringo guy. Particularly in Rio and the Northeast such "temporary couples" are a common sight, and people will make assumptions based on appearances.

Brazil is experiencing an increase in the number of African-North American visitors interested in learning about the African roots of Brazilian culture. Most of these travelers visit Salvador, the Brazilian city with the highest percentage of residents of African descent, as well as Rio, which is more of a melting pot but where Afro-Brazilian culture is also strong. Brazil Nuts (www.brazilnuts.com) offers several packages that focus on African religions, festivals, and culture. They can also customize a trip according to your requirements.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Outside of the big cities such as São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and Salvador, openly gay men or women will certainly draw attention and perhaps be subjected to comments or jokes. Brazil is still a macho culture and any open sign of affection between people of the same sex will meet with disapproval.

Gay and lesbian travelers will find small but vibrant gay communities in São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, and some of the other big cities, more often geared toward men than women. There are now gay pride parades in many of Brazil's big cities -- Rio, São Paulo, Belo Horizonte, even Manaus in the Amazon. There are gay beach areas in Rio, and gay bars and clubs in most larger Brazilian cities. However, public displays of affection are not common among gays and lesbians even in the cities, and in small towns and communities the level of acceptance is significantly lower -- rude remarks and jokes are almost guaranteed, though physical violence is thankfully rare.

One Brazilian travel agency in Rio that specializes in tours for gay and lesbian travelers is Rio G Travel, Rua Teixeira de Melo 16, Ipanema (tel. 021/3813-0003; www.riog.com.br).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Senior travelers can try and ask for discounts, though these are reserved for those over 60 or 65 years of age who can show Brazilian ID. Still, it's worth asking at tourist attractions if there's a discount. The phrase to use is "Tem disconto para idosos?"

When to Go

High season in Brazil lasts from the week before Christmas until Carnaval (which falls sometime in Feb or early Mar, depending on the year). Flights and accommodations are more expensive and more likely to be full during this period. Book well ahead of time for accommodations during New Year's and Carnaval. This is the most fun time to travel -- towns and resorts are bustling as many Brazilians take their summer vacations, the weather's warm, and New Year's and Carnaval are fabulously entertaining. If you want to spend New Year's in Brazil, it's best to arrive after Christmas. The 25th is really a family affair, and most restaurants and shops will be closed.

Other busy times of the year include Easter week and the months of July, when Brazilian schools and universities take their winter break, and August, when most Europeans and North Americans visit during the summer vacation. This is probably the worst time of year to travel; prices go up significantly, and except for in the north and parts of the Northeast, the weather can be iffy and downright chilly from Rio de Janeiro southward. One year in Rio, I suffered through 4 straight weeks of rain, and temperatures as low as 5 to 10 Celsius (40s-50s Fahrenheit) are not unheard of in the south. If you want to take advantage of the best deals and still have good weather, consider visiting Brazil in September or October. The spring weather means warm days in São Paulo, Iguaçu, and Rio, and tropical heat everywhere else; in the Amazon and the Pantanal, you'll be there just before the wet season starts. As an added bonus, in Rio you'll be able to attend some of the samba school rehearsals as they get ready for Carnaval (yes, they start 4 months early). Another good period for a visit is after Carnaval (early to mid-Mar, depending on the dates) through May, when you can take advantage of low-season prices, particularly in hotels, while still enjoying good weather.

Weather

As Brazil lies in the Southern Hemisphere, its seasons are the exact opposite of what Northern Hemisphere residents are used to: summer is December through March and winter June through September. Within the country the climate varies considerably from region to region. In most of Brazil the summers are very hot. Temperatures can rise to 43°C (110°F) with high humidity. The Northeast (from Salvador north) is warm year-round, often with a pleasant breeze coming off the ocean. Temperatures hover between the upper 20s to mid-30s Celsius (low 80s and mid-90s Fahrenheit). The winter months (June-July) are slightly wetter, but even then the amount of rain is limited -- a quick shower that cools things down briefly before giving way to more sunshine.

As befits a rainforest, the Amazon is also hot and humid year-round, with temperatures hovering around the mid- to high 30s Celsius (mid-90s to low 100s Fahrenheit). The dry season lasts from June to December and is often called "summer" by the locals as it is hot and sunny. As the rivers recede, beaches and islands reappear. The wet season typically runs from December to May and is referred to as "winter." The humidity is higher in the rainy season, building up over the course of the day to produce a heavy downfall almost every afternoon. Even then, however, mornings and early afternoons can be clear and sunny.

The Pantanal is very hot in the rainy season, with temperatures climbing over the low 40s Celsius mark (100°F). Most of the rain falls December through March. The driest time of the year is May through October. In these winter months things cool down considerably, though nighttime temperatures will seldom drop below 20°C (68°F). Rio has very hot and humid summers -- 38°C (100°F) and 98% humidity are not uncommon. Rio winters are quite mild, with nighttime temperatures dropping as low as 19°C (66°F), and daytime temperatures climbing to the pleasant and sunny 30°C (86°F). Cariocas themselves find this lack of heat appalling, and will often throw on a coat or heavy sweater when the temperature drops below 21°C (70°F). In their defense, I should note that most houses and apartments are completely without heat, and many restaurants and stores lack windows or doors, so it can feel quite cool.

São Paulo has a similar climate to Rio's, hot in the summer and mild in winter. As São Paulo sits atop a plateau at approximately 700m (2,300 ft.) of elevation it can sometimes get downright chilly, with daytime lows June through September sometimes reaching 12°C (54°F). South of São Paulo, things get even colder in the winter. In Florianópolis, many restaurants and even some hotels and pousadas shut down for the winter season. Also, in the mountain resort of Petrópolis and the historic towns of Ouro Preto and Tiradentes, it often gets cold enough to see your breath (5°C/41°F) in the fall and winter, and Brazilians will travel here to experience winter.

Holidays

The following holidays are observed in Brazil: New Year's Day (Jan 1); Carnaval (Mar 5-8, 2011, Feb 18-21, 2012); Easter (Apr 4, 2010, and Apr 24, 2011); Tiradentes Day (Apr 21); Labor Day (May 1); Corpus Christi (June 3, 2010, and June 23, 2011); Independence Day (Sept 7); Our Lady of Apparition (Oct 12); All Souls' Day (Nov 2); Proclamation of the Republic (Nov 15); and Christmas Day (Dec 25). On these days banks, schools, and government institutions will be closed, and some stores may be closed as well.

Brazil's biggest holidays are New Year's and Carnaval). Easter is also a big celebration in a number of towns around the country, particularly in the historic towns of Minas Gerais and Novo Jerusalem outside Recife. Reservations are recommended for those planning to attend these events.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Learning Portuguese will greatly enhance your travel experience in Brazil. "Knowing a bit of Spanish" usually won't cut it here, especially outside of the main tourist destinations. The better language programs are found in large cities where there is a constant supply of students. In addition to learning Portuguese, many programs will also include cultural outings (such as music and events) and provide a great opportunity to meet other travelers. Languages in Action (www.languagesinaction.com) offers individual and group courses in São Paulo and Salvador. A company with a language school in downtown Rio de Janeiro is Bridge Brazil, Rua da Quitanda 191, Rio de Janeiro (tel. 866/574-8606 in the U.S. and Canada, or 021/2220-8659 in Rio; www.bridgebrazil.com).

Medical Tourism

Brazil is emerging as one of the prime destinations for cosmetic and plastic surgery. Brazilian surgeons are second only to U.S. doctors in the number of procedures performed and therefore have extensive experience. Their training is top-notch (in fact, many foreign surgeons come to Brazil to train) and cities like Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo have outstanding medical facilities. In addition to plastic surgery, travelers can also opt for excellent dental care and other beauty treatments, like laser hair removal, botox, and peelings. Of course it pays to do your research. One company that offers a lot of information and a free consultation service to get you started is Cosmetic Vacations, 120 E. Oakland Park Blvd. 105-1A, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33334 (tel. 877/627-2556; www.cosmeticvacations.com).

Volunteer & Working Trips

For a different kind of travel experience consider donating some of your time as a volunteer to a local organization. One organization that is particularly well set up to accommodate foreign volunteers is Iko Poran, Rua do Oriente, 280/201, Rio de Janeiro (tel. 021/3852-2916; www.ikoporan.org). They can provide you with detailed information and help you decide if this is something you want to do. Although speaking Portuguese is not a prerequisite, some language knowledge will open up more interesting opportunities.

Visitor Information

The Brazilian national tourism agency, Embratur, has a good site at www.embratur.gov.br. The agency also has representatives overseas:

In the U.K.: London, 18 Greyhound Rd., London, W6.8NX (tel. 20/7396-5551; fax 20/7396-5599; e-mail: ebt.uk@embratur.gov.br/assistant.ebt.uk@embratur.gov.br).

The Brazilian Embassy in the U.K. has an outstanding website including links to all the state and many city tourism websites: www.brazil.org.uk.

In the U.S.: New York (tel. 646/378-2126; fax 646/378-2034; e-mail: ebt.us@embratur.gov.br/assistant.ebt.us@embratur.gov.br). Los Angeles (tel. 310/341-8394; e-mail: ebt.us2@embratur.gov.br/assistant.ebt.us2@embratur.gov.br).

Other Brazilian embassies abroad also provide good tourist information:

In Australia: 19 Forster Crescent, Yarralumla, Canberra ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6273-2372; fax 02/6273-2375; www.brazil.org.au).

In Canada: 450 Wilbrod St., Ottawa, ON K1N 6M8 (tel. 613/237-1090; fax 613/237-6144; www.brasembottawa.org).

In New Zealand: 10 Brandon St., Level 9, Wellington 6001 (tel. 04/473-3516; fax 04/473-3517; www.brazil.org.nz).

In the U.K.: 32 Green St., London W1K 7AT (tel. 020/7399-9000; fax 020/7399-9100; www.brazil.org.uk).

In the U.S.: 3006 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/238-2700; fax 202/238-2827; www.brasilemb.org).

Tips for Travelers with Food Allergies

If you are allergic to nuts you should be extra careful around certain dishes. Especially those with a seafood or shrimp allergy may want to check before ordering stews from the Northeast such as moqueca, vatapá, and bobó. These dishes often have ground-up shrimp or sometimes nuts in the sauce. Also, many fish dishes come with shrimp sauce, which may not be listed on the menu. Desserts often have nuts in them so always ask before digging in. Peanuts are amendoim (ah-man-doo-een), cashews in Portuguese are castanha de caju (ka-stan-ya de ka-zhoo) or caju for short, and Brazil nuts are known as castanha do Pará (ka-stan-ya doh pa-rah). The general word for nuts is nozes (no-zhes) and you can let people know that you have an allergy by saying "Tenho alergia de amendoim" (Ten-yo ah-lehr-gee-ah de ah-man-doo-een).

Getting Around

By Plane

The sheer vastness of Brazil (and the absence of rail travel) makes air travel the only viable option for those who want to visit a variety of cities and regions. However, the Brazilian airline industry has been experiencing turbulent times of late. The last 6 years has seen the bankruptcy of two Brazilian carriers, Transbrasil and Vasp, followed by the effective demise of the country's flagship carrier Varig. (A new, smaller Varig flew out of bankruptcy protection, only to merge with low-cost carrier Gol.) Disruptions by air-traffic controllers and delays at domestic airports lead the president to sack the head of the civilian air agency in mid-2007, and the new chief seems to be bringing order back to the skies. However, travelers should stock up on patience before entering a Brazilian airport. (It may well not be required, but you never know.) During peak travel times (holidays, high season) long delays are not an unlikely occurrence.

For those traveling larger distances in Brazil there is also the option of purchasing an air pass with Tam (much to the envy of Brazilians this pass is available to foreigners only). The pass offers travelers four flights within a 21-day period. Air passes need to be purchased and booked outside of Brazil. Only limited changes are allowed once you arrive in the country. Also, it's a good idea to read the small print before choosing your pass. Often flights between Rio and São Paulo's downtown airports are excluded (meaning you have to use the international airports) and the pass does not allow returns on the same stretch.

TAM (tel. 0800/123-100 in Brazil; www.tam.com.br) offers four segments for US$551 if you arrive on an international TAM flight (otherwise the pass costs US$635). The pass is valid for 21 days. Check TAM's special English-language site for more details on the air pass (www.tamairlines.com). If you're traveling to only one or two destinations within Brazil, it can be cheaper to skip the air pass and buy a separate ticket.

The big winner from much of the air chaos has been Gol (tel. 0300/789-2121 in Brazil; www.voegol.com.br). This airline has modeled itself after American discount carriers like Southwest Airlines -- quick bookings online and no-frills flights, now between nearly every significant city in Brazil. Tickets can be purchased online -- but only if you have an American Express card -- or at the airport. The company flies brand-new Boeing 737s and provides friendly and efficient service.

In the past couple of years a number of lower-cost airlines have sprung up, offering competitive and often cheaper fares between Brazilian cities. These newcomers include Azul (tel. 011/3003-2985; http://viajemais.voeazul.com.br); Ocean Air (tel. 0300/789-8160; www.oceanair.com.br); TRIP (tel. 011/3003-8747; www.voetrip.com.br); and Webjet (tel. 0300/210-1234; www.webjet.com.br).

Domestic departure tax is around R$21 at most airports, and international departures are a hefty R$108. Payment can only be made in cash with U.S. dollars or Brazilian currency but not in a combination of both.

Domestic Travel Do's and Don'ts -- There are a few tricks to avoiding delays and cancellations when flying domestically in Brazil. First, if at all possible, avoid flights stopping or connecting through São Paulo. That may be hard to do; the city serves as Brazil's major hub, and its airports as a result have a tendency to get clogged and backed up. Second, travel early in the day: Delays tend to accumulate throughout the day and lead to bigger and bigger backlogs. Third, don't book tight connections, especially if you have to transfer from the domestic airport in Rio or São Paulo to the international airport. For a simple connection within the same airport, give yourself an hour. For a transfer from domestic to international airports, allow for at least 2 hours in Rio and 3 hours in São Paulo.

By Car

Car rentals are expensive, and the distances are huge. From Recife to Brasilia is 2,121km (1,315 miles); Salvador to Rio is a 1,800km (1,116-mile) drive. Within Brazilian cities, renting a car is only for the confident driver. Brazilian drivers are aggressive, rules sporadically applied, and parking a competitive sport. That said, there are occasions -- a side trip to the mountain resorts of Rio, a visit to the historic towns of Minas Gerais, or a drive to the Chapada dos Guimarães outside of Cuiabá -- where a car makes sense. Local contact numbers for rental companies are given in each chapter.

Car rental in Brazil is more expensive than in North America. A two-door compact (Fiat Palio, Ford Ka) with air-conditioning and unlimited mileage costs about R$100 per day, plus some R$20 to R$30 for insurance. Most rental cars in Brazil will work on either unleaded gasoline, gasohol, or pure alcohol (ethanol). Gasoline costs about R$2.70 per liter. Ethanol costs significantly less, about R$1.70 per liter, but burns more quickly. Still, ethanol winds up being cheaper overall.

Officially you need an international driver's license but we have never encountered any problems having a U.S., Canadian, or European license. To obtain an international license, contact your local automobile association. While expensive, the comprehensive insurance is probably a good idea as Brazilian drivers are not as gentle with their cars as folks in North America. Bumpers are meant to be used, Brazilians believe, and if a bit of nudging is required to get into that parking spot, so be it.

Speed limits within the cities range from 40kmph to 70kmph (25mph-43mph. Many cities have radar and automated monitoring. Fines are expensive -- R$100 to R$500, depending on how fast you're going. Highway speed limits range from 90kmph to 120kmph (56mph-75mph), but are much less rigorously enforced.

Brazilians mark accident sites by leaving cut branches or small piles of leaves on the road. If you see such a pile of foliage on the tarmac, it means there's an accident ahead. Slow down. It's a good idea to seek local information about the state of the roads on the route you plan to travel. Brazilian roads have been improving, but some can still be potholed and difficult. Locals and your local rental agency will know the road conditions, and be able to suggest alternatives.

The following agencies have bureaus in most airports and major cities in Brazil: Avis (tel. 0800/725-2847; www.avis.com.br); Hertz (tel. 0800/701-7300; www.hertz.com.br); Localiza (tel. 0800/979-2000; www.localiza.com); Unidas (tel. 0800/121-121; www.unidas.com.br). To rent a car you need a passport and valid drivers license. An international license is not required.

By Bus

Bus travel in Brazil is comfortable, efficient, and affordable. The only problem is, it's a long way from anywhere to anywhere else. A trip from Rio to São Paulo takes 6 to 8 hours, from Rio to Brasilia closer to 20 hours.

There are a vast number of bus companies, serving various regional routes. Unlike in North America, there is no nationwide bus company. To find out which bus company travels to your desired destination, you contact the bus station in your city of origin, and they pass on the number of the appropriate company. This can be tricky if you don't speak Portuguese. Fortunately, however, the bus stations in major cities now have websites, which allow you to select your destination from a drop-down menu, and then provide the departure times, price, and the name of the bus company. You can often also purchase tickets online. Tickets can be purchased ahead of time with reserved seats. All buses are nonsmoking. On many popular routes travelers can opt for a deluxe coach with air-conditioning and leito (seats that recline almost flat).

Tips on Accommodations

Brazil offers a wide range of accommodations. In the large cities there are modern high-rise hotels as well as apartment hotels (or rental flats for you Brits) known in Brazil as apart-hotels. The apart-hotels are often a better deal than regular hotel rooms, offering both cheaper rates and more space: a separate living room, bedroom, and kitchen. The drawback is that you sometimes don't get the pool, restaurants, and other amenities of a hotel.

Some of the better hotels that you will find in Brazil are among the Accor Group (www.accorhotels.com.br). This French company operates a number of brands such as the Sofitel luxury hotels, the excellent Parthenon apart-hotels, and the Mercure and Ibis. The last two are fairly new and most hotels are only a few years old. The Mercure offers more comfortable accommodations; the Ibis is the Motel 6 version, clean and reliable but no-frills.

A more high-end chain with numerous new properties is the Meliá (www.solmelia.com). The Blue Tree (www.bluetree.com.br) is also represented in many Brazilian cities. The older properties in the chain are not the best but the modern ones are excellent. A relative newcomer is the Atlantica Hotels (www.atlanticahotels.com.br) chain. Some of its best-known brands are the Comfort Suites and Quality. Both are good, affordable hotels with modern amenities and standards.

Outside of the large cities you will often find pousadas, essentially our equivalent of a bed-and-breakfast or small inn. Accommodations prices fluctuate widely. The rates posted at the front desk -- the rack rate or tarifa balcão -- are just a guideline. Outside of high season and on weekends you can almost always negotiate significant (20%-30%) discounts. High season is from mid-December to Carnaval (mid- to late Feb), Easter week, long weekends, and July (winter vacation). Notable exceptions are Brasilia and São Paulo, where business just dies during high season and weekends and rooms are heavily discounted.

Tip: Always check the quotes you have obtained from a hotel with a travel agency such as Brazil Nuts or South America Travel as many hotels will give their best rates to travel agents and stick it to individual travelers or those who book via the Internet. The Copacabana Palace quoted us a price of US$220 to US$450 for a room, whereas Brazil Nuts can sell you that same room for US$150.

Unlike North American hotels, Brazilian hotel rooms do not feature coffeemakers, irons, or ironing boards, although the latter can sometimes be delivered to your room upon request. Even in luxury hotels, the complimentary toiletries are usually very basic, so pack your own. On the other hand, breakfast (café de manha) at Brazilian hotels is almost always included in the room price and at most places includes a nice buffet-style spread including bread, meats, cheeses, fruit, eggs (sometimes), and café com leite, strong coffee served with hot milk. In recent years a few of the more expensive hotels have taken to charging for café de manha; if this is the case it's noted in the review.

Accommodations taxes range from nothing to 15%, varying from city to city and hotel to hotel. Always check in advance.

Escorted & Package Tours

Many travel agencies offer package tours to Brazil, but few have the knowledge to effectively customize your trip or make interesting recommendations. To book a package with Brazil travel experts, contact Brazil Nuts, 1854 Trade Center Way, Ste. 101A, Naples, FL 34109 (tel. 800/553-9959 or 914/593-0266; www.brazilnuts.com). The owners and staff are indeed nuts about Brazil and possess a vast amount of knowledge about the country and its attractions. Depending on your needs you can book just a flight and hotels, or you can add one or more group excursions in more inaccessible places such as the Amazon. Their website is a fount of information, and staff can answer any questions you may have about Brazil.

Note: Brazilian travel agents still have a firm grip on the hotel market, and Brazilian hotels will usually offer their lowest rates to travel agents instead of posting them on their websites. Once you have narrowed down your hotel options, it can pay to contact an agency like Brazil Nuts to compare rates.

Another excellent resource on Brazil and South America travel in general is South America Travel (tel. 800/747-4540; www.southamerica.travel). South America Travel offers packages customizable to whatever level you're comfortable with. A number of interesting add-ons are available -- outdoors lovers will be pleased to see some great hiking and camping options.

Travelers planning a trip beyond Brazil, to Argentina and Chile, may want to consult with Borello Travel & Tours, 7 Park Ave., Ste. 21, New York, NY 10016 (tel. 800/405-3072 or 212/686-4911; www.borellotravel.com). This travel agency specializes in the Southern Cone and can help you plan a great itinerary to make the most of the region.

A good travel agency to book your ticket through is Santini Tours, 6575 Shattuck Ave., Oakland, CA 94609 (tel. 800/769-9669 or 510/652-8600; www.santours.com). The owner as well as many of the travel agents are Brazilian and can give you many useful suggestions on air pass routings and answer any questions you have about your itinerary. In addition to selling tickets and air passes, Santini can also arrange customized tours, including everything from airport transfers to sightseeing and guided tours.

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Travelers with disabilities will find Brazil challenging. Those who use a wheelchair to get around will find that very few places are accessible. In the large cities, increasing numbers of hotels, restaurants, and attractions are making themselves accessible. The trick lies in getting to them. Sidewalks are often uneven, ramps are usually absent, and buses and taxis are not adapted to handle a wheelchair. City Metrô systems in Rio and São Paulo are beginning to provide ramps and elevators, but not all stations are equipped.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Visas

Nationals of the United States, Canada, and Australia require a visa to visit Brazil. British nationals (and most holders of an E.U. passport) and New Zealand passport holders do not require a visa, but do need a passport valid for at least 6 months and a return ticket. A number of visa types are available; cost, processing time, and documentation requirements vary. Visas for Australians cost A$90, plus local handling fees, and take about 2 weeks to process. For Canadians a similar visa costs C$72 and takes about the same processing time. U.S. citizens pay US$100 for a standard single-entry tourist visa valid for 90 days (add another US$10 for handling fees, passport photos, and courier costs if you don't live near a consulate). Count on at least 2 weeks of processing time.

Upon arrival in Brazil, visitors will receive a 90-day entry stamp in their passport and a stamped entry card. Hang on to the card for dear life, as losing it will result in a possible fine and a certain major hassle when you leave. If necessary, the visa can be renewed once for another 90 days. Visa renewals are obtained through the local Policia Federal. This is best done in large cities where the staff has experience with tourists. It's a good idea to print and fill in a copy of the requisite form, available at the following website: www.dpf.gov.br/web/formulario/form_cgpi/requerimento_de_prorrogacao_de_prazo.htm.

Children 17 and under must have their own passport and visa. Children from 3 months to 6 years of age must also show proof of vaccination for polio. If a child is traveling with people other than his, or even if the child is only traveling with one of parents, the child must have a notarized letter from both parents confirming permission for the child to travel. For a model of this letter, see www.consulatebrazil.org/autorizacaoviagemmenor.htm. Immigration authorities may well demand such a letter on entry or exit. Buses and airlines often demand such a letter before allowing a child to board.

Shortly after the United States began fingerprinting Brazilian visitors, Brazil in a tit-for-tat bit of retaliation implemented its own fingerprint program for U.S. visitors. In its first few months the system caused numerous long delays; nowadays the fingerprint requirement is fulfilled with a quick and efficient digital reading of a single thumb digit.

Note that Brazilian consulates in the U.S. often no longer offer multiple entry visas (though you can ask). However, this is not a problem for visitors to Iguaçu who wish only to travel over to the Argentine side for a few hours and return the same day. The Policia Federal at the Iguaçu border post inspect passports but let you exit and return without the need for a new visa.

For more information regarding visas and to obtain application details:

Australians can call tel. 02/6273-2372 (in Australia) or log on to www.brazil.org.au.

Canadians can apply through Toronto's Brazilian consulate (tel. 416/922-2503; www.consbrastoronto.org).

In New Zealand inquiries can be made in Wellington at tel. 04/473-3516 or check www.brazil.org.nz.

In the U.K., more information is available at tel. 020/7399-9000 (in the U.K.); www.brazil.org.uk.

U.S. citizens can contact the Brazilian consulate in New York (tel. 917/777-7791; www.brazilny.org); Los Angeles (tel. 323/651-2664; www.brazilianconsulate.org); or Miami (tel. 305/285-6200; www.brazilmiami.org). Links will connect you to the consulate closest to you.

Don't Leave Home Without a Picture ID -- Bring an alternative picture ID, like a driver's license or student ID. You are required to carry ID in Brazil, and it's sometimes requested when entering office buildings or even tourist sites. Your passport is safer in the hotel safe and not required except for official transactions.

Customs

What You Can Bring In -- As a visitor you are unlikely to be scrutinized very closely by Brazilian Customs; however, there are random checks, and your luggage may be thoroughly inspected. Visitors are allowed to bring in whatever they need for personal use on their trip, including electronics such as a camera and laptop. If you are bringing in new electronic items you may be asked to register the item to ensure that you will take it with you when you leave. Gifts purchased abroad worth more than US$500 must be declared and are subject to duties for the value over US$500. Merchandise for sale or samples should also be declared upon arrival.

What You Can Take Home from Brazil -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Medical Requirements

Before going, check your vaccinations and get booster shots for tetanus and polio if required. Children ages 3 months to 6 years may be required to show proof of polio vaccination. One vaccination that is definitely recommended -- and sometimes mandatory -- for Brazil is yellow fever. Outbreaks are sometimes reported in the Amazon, the Pantanal, Brasilia, or even Minas Gerais. Make sure you get an international certificate of vaccination as Brazilian authorities sometimes require proof of vaccination for people going to or coming from an affected area. Travelers who have been to Colombia, Bolivia, Ecuador, French Guyana, Peru, or Venezuela within 90 days prior to their arrival in Brazil must show proof of yellow fever vaccination. Keep in mind that the vaccine takes 10 days to take effect.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

A standard return flight from New York to São Paulo has a carbon footprint of some 3.75 global hectares (gha). Further domestic flights around Brazil, for example, from São Paulo to Rio, Rio to Salvador, Salvador to Manaus, and Manaus back to São Paulo, add another 1.75 gha, for a total carbon footprint for the trip of about 5.5gha. Carbon offsets, which balance the carbon released by a particular activity, either through reforestation or avoided deforestation, or investment in energy efficiency or carbon trading projects, can be purchased through the NGO Carbon Fund (www.carbonfund.org). They will offset the 24,000km (40,000 miles) of flights involved in a trip to Brazil for an astonishingly cheap US$75. Never was environmental expiation purchased so cheaply.

But how can you try to mitigate your local impact once you arrive? First and foremost, live like the locals. Brazilian cities are already far less energy-intensive and resource-hungry than most North American ones. Brazilians -- even the middle class -- tend to live in high-rise apartments in dense urban neighborhoods, and navigate their cities by public transport or small fuel-efficient car. Do as they do, stay in a high-rise near the beach, take the Metrô or a bus or even cabs, and your ecological impact for the weeks you're here will drop some 90% -- from the U.S. average of 37.02 gha to the Brazil average of 3.04 gha.

Beyond that though, your options are somewhat limited. Brazilian resorts and tour operators do advertise "eco-tourism," but in Brazil this means anything that takes place in the outdoors, be it leave-only-footprints nature hikes or churn-up-the-wildlife ATV expeditions. It does not signify lodges or hotels with solar heating or clever ways of dealing with wastewater, or even outdoor operators that take particular care of their local ecosystems. "Eco-tourism" in Brazil is a term that has been stretched to and beyond the bounds of any useful meaning.

In Brazil's two most vulnerable remaining ecosystems -- the Pantanal and the Amazon -- there are tourism operators who strive to protect their local ecosystems. In the Pantanal the Araras Eco Lodge and the Jaguar Ecological Reserve have helped to popularize the private ecological reserve, a Brazilian program through which the government provides tax breaks in return for a landowner committing to preserving a portion of his in perpetuity. The presence of eco-tourism operators in the Pantanal -- particularly Araras -- has also provided a lobby to counter certain ill-advised development schemes, including the paving of the Transpantaneira highway, and the widening, straightening, and deepening of the Rio Paraguay, the better to transport soybeans to the coast.

In the Amazon, the Pousada Uakarí serves as an integral part of the Mamiraua Sustainable Development Institute (www.mamiraua.org.br), a project designed to preserve the habitat of the Uakarí monkey while improving the living standards of local human populations living in and around the Uakarí reserve. Other Amazon lodges come nowhere near this standard, though they do provide some local employment for guides and other lodge staff. Unfortunately, the minuscule scale of eco-tourism operations in comparison with the employment and revenues generated by the timber and cattle industries has rendered eco-tourism a nonplayer in the debate over preserving the Amazon.

However, one could argue that those who experience the Amazon become more likely to lobby to save it. Certainly, awareness of the importance of the Amazon, both globally and in Brazil, has lead to the passage in Brazil of a range of reasonably stringent preservation measures, including parks, reserves, Indian reservations, national forestlands, and restrictions on deforestation on private landholdings. The problem in Brazil is that these regulations are often not respected, while enforcement on the ground remains weak. Still, rates of deforestation in the Brazilian Amazon have declined, from a 2004 peak of 27,400 sq. km (an area somewhat larger than Vermont) to 12,911 sq. km (an area somewhat smaller than Connecticut) in 2008.

Staying Connected

As in most parts of the world, using the phone from your hotel room is an invitation to a gouging at the checkout desk. Premiums almost always apply, and can sometimes reach extraordinary levels. Public phones in Brazil can be found everywhere and are called orelhões. To use these phones you need a phone card, for sale at all newsstands. Ask for a cartão telefonico.

Telephones

To call Brazil:

1. Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 00 in the U.K., Ireland, and New Zealand, or 0011 from Australia).

2. Dial the country code: 55.

3. Then the area code without the 0 (for example, 21 for Rio, 11 for São Paulo).

To call within Brazil:

Dialing a local number is straightforward: dial the number without the area code. However, for long-distance dialing, telephone numbers are normally listed with a three-digit prefix, followed by the area code, followed by the seven- or eight-digit number (for example, 0XX-21-5555-5555). Since phones were deregulated, a number of very competitive companies have sprung up. The two digits that fill in the XX are the number of the appropriate service provider (in Portuguese this is called the prestadora). Any phone can be used to access any service provider. In some cities there may be a choice of two or three providers. The only code that works in all of Brazil (and the only prestadora code you need to remember) is the one for Embratel -- 21 (which also happens to be the area code of Rio). So, if you were dialing long distance to a number in Rio, you would dial 0-21 (selecting Embratel as your provider), 21 (Rio's area code), and 5555-5555 (the number). Dialing long distance to a number in São Paulo, you'd dial 0-21-11-5555-5555.

To make international calls:

Dial 00 + 21 + the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64) + area code + phone number.

International collect calls can be requested by dialing 000-111, or automatically by dialing 90 + 21 + country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64) + area code + phone number. Major long distance company access codes are as follows: AT&T tel. 0800/890-0288; MCI tel. 0800/890-0012; Sprint tel. 0800/888-8000; and Canada Direct tel. 0800/890-0014.

Cellphones

International GSM cellphones work in most parts of Brazil. Charges can be high -- usually US$1 to US$1.50 per minute. A better option is to buy a local SIM card, which gives you a local Brazilian number and allows you to pay local Brazilian rates (about R$1 per minute for local calls, R$1.40 for long distance). There is no charge to receive calls if you are in your home area. Outside your area code, roaming charges of about R$1 per minute apply. There are a number of cellphone providers that sell SIM chips in Brazil, but the only one that provides service throughout the country is TIM (www.tim.com.br). There are TIM kiosks in all major malls, and airports and department stores. Note that after you buy a TIM SIM chip, you will have to call and register your account (as part of its anti-crime laws Brazil does not allow anonymous cellphone accounts). You will need to give your name and passport number. Cards that allow you to add credit to your account are available at newsstands throughout Brazil.

Internet & E-Mail

Wi-Fi is becoming increasingly common in Brazil. Many hotels offer it either in the lobby or the rooms, or both. A few hotels offer the service for free; many more charge a daily access fee. While Wi-Fi is becoming the norm, many hotels still only offer the old cable plug-in. Remember to bring your cable.

Wi-Fi hot spots are far less common. There is free Wi-Fi on Copacabana beach in Rio de Janeiro, and paid Wi-Fi in airports in Rio and São Paulo, and other sites (generally with an access fee) in some bookstores and cafes in the larger Brazilian cities.

Internet cafes (called cyber cafés in Brazil) are quite common everywhere in Brazil, from the Amazon to the big cities. Prices range from R$.55 to R$2 per hour; luxury hotels usually charge the most, anywhere up to R$30 per hour.

Fast Facts

Addresses -- When writing addresses in Brazil, the street number follows the name of the street ("Av. Atlântica 2000" would roughly translate as "2000 Atlantic Ave."). Often in smaller towns a street name will be followed by the abbreviation "s/n." This stands for sem numero (without number), and is used when a building sits on a street but has no identifying number. Other words you might come across are loja (shop or unit), bloco (building or block), and sala (room or suite, often abbreviated "sl."). In mailing addresses, the postal code usually precedes the two-letter state abbreviation.

Business Hours -- Stores are usually open from 9am to 7pm weekdays, 9am to 2pm on Saturdays. Most places close on Sundays. Small stores may close for lunch. Shopping centers are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 8pm most places, though in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo they often stay open until 10pm. On Sundays many malls open the food court and movie theaters all day, but mall shops will only open from 2 to 8pm. Banks are open Monday through Friday either from 10am to 4pm or from 9am to 3pm.

Drinking Laws -- Officially, the legal drinking age in Brazil is 18, but it's not often enforced. Beer, wine, and liquor can be bought on any day of the week from grocery stores and snack stands. Drinking is allowed in public places and in motor vehicles. Drinking is now prohibited in most soccer stadiums. For drivers, the legal alcohol limit is 0.00. This is now strictly enforced.

Electricity -- Brazil's electric current varies from 100 to 240 volts, and from 50 to 60Hz; even within one city there can be variations, and power surges are not uncommon. For laptops or battery chargers, bring an adaptor that can handle the full range of voltage. Most hotels do a good job of labeling their outlets, but when in doubt check before plugging in! Brazilian plugs usually have three prongs: two round and one flat. Adapters for converting North American plugs are cheap (R$3) and widely available.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in Brasilia, the capital. Australia, Canada, the United States, and Great Britain have consulates in both Rio and São Paulo. New Zealand has a consulate in São Paulo.

In Brasilia: Australia, SES, Quadra 801, Conjunto K, lote 7 (tel. 061/3226-3111; www.brazil.embassy.gov.au). Canada, SES Av. das Nações Quadra 803, lote 16 (tel. 061/3424-5400; www.canada.org.br). Great Britain, SES Av. das Nações Quadra 801, lote 8 (tel. 061/3329-2300; www.uk.org.br). New Zealand, SHIS QI 09, conj. 16, casa 01 (tel. 061/3248-9900; www.nzembassy.com/home.cfm?c=44). United States, SES Av. das Nações Quadra 801, lote 03 (tel. 061/3312-7000; www.embaixada-americana.org.br).

In Rio de Janeiro: Australia, Av. Presidente Wilson 231, Ste. 23, Centro (tel. 021/3824-4624). Canada, Av. Atlântica 1130, fifth floor, Copacabana (tel. 021/2543-3004). Great Britain, Praia do Flamengo 284, Flamengo (tel. 021/2555-9600). United States, Av. Presidente Wilson 147, Centro (tel. 021/3823-2000).

In São Paulo: Australia, CHEK Santos 700, ninth floor, Jardim Paulista (tel. 011/3171 2889). Canada, Av. das Nações Unidas 12901, 19th floor (tel. 011/5509-4321). Great Britain, Rua Ferreira de Araujo 741 (tel. 011/3094-2700). New Zealand, Av. Campinas 579, 15th floor, Cerqueira Cesar (tel. 011/3148-0616). United States, Rua Henri Dunant 500, Chácara Santo Antonio (tel. 011/5186-7000).

Emergency Numbers -- For police dial tel. 190; for ambulance or fire department dial tel. 193.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gasoline costs approximately R$2.80/liter. Most cars will also work on ethanol (alcohol) which costs only R$1.80 per liter. However, ethanol burns faster, so its effective cost works out to a bit more, close to R$2.20 per liter.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Language -- The language of Brazil is Portuguese. If you speak Spanish you will certainly have an easier time picking up words and phrases. In the large cities you will find people in the tourism industry who speak good English, but in smaller towns and resorts English is very limited. If you are picking up language books or tapes, make sure they are Brazilian Portuguese and not Portuguese from Portugal: big difference! A good pocket-size phrasebook is Say It in Portuguese (Brazilian usage) by Prista, Mickle, and Costa; or try Conversational Brazilian Portuguese by Cortina.

Legal Aid -- In larger Brazilian cities there are special police detachments for dealing with tourists, called DEAT (Delegacia Especial Atendimento ao Turista). See the "Fast Facts" sections in each chapter for contact details. If you find yourself involved with the police, demand to be taken to the nearest DEAT station. DEAT officers speak English, and are normally better trained.

Mail -- Mail from Brazil is quick and efficient. Post offices (correios) are found everywhere, readily identifiable by the blue-and-yellow sign. A postcard or letter to Europe or North America costs R$1.80. Parcels can be sent through FedEx or regular mail (express or common); a small parcel -- up to 2.5 kilograms (5 1/2 lb.) -- costs about R$55 by common mail and takes about a week or two.

Maps -- Good maps aren't Brazil's strong suit. Better to buy one before you come. In Brazil, your best bet for city maps is the Guia Quatro Rodas -- Mapas das Capitais; this pocket book for sale at all newsstands (R$12) has indexed maps of all state capitals, including São Paulo, Rio, Salvador, Manaus, Brasilia, and Recife. Unfortunately it does not include any highways. The best highway map is sold with the Guia Quatro Rodas Brasil (for sale on newsstands for R$42), a Brazilian guidebook.

Newspapers & Magazines -- There are no English-language newspapers or magazines in Brazil. Foreign papers and magazines are only easily found in Rio and São Paulo. The most popular Brazilian newspapers are O Globo and Jornal do Brasil, published out of Rio, and Folha de São Paulo, the leading business paper published in São Paulo. The most popular current affairs magazine (the equivalent of Newsweek) is Veja, published weekly. In Rio and São Paulo, Veja magazine always includes an entertainment insert that provides a detailed listing of nightlife, restaurants, and events.

Passports -- See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport.

Police -- For police dial tel. 190.

Shopping -- Clothing sizes follow the European numbering (36, 38, 40, and so on) or are marked P (pequeno = small), M (medio = medium), and G (grande = large); U stands for tamanho único (one size).

Smoking -- Smoking is prohibited on planes and long-distance buses. It is also prohibited in restaurants in Rio and São Paulo. Other Brazilian cities are expected to implement restaurant smoking bans in the near future.

Taxes -- There are no taxes added to goods purchased in Brazil. Restaurants and hotels normally add a 10% service tax. In Rio, the city also levies a 5% tax on hotels. All airports in Brazil charge departure taxes; this is usually included in the ticket price but it's wise to check. Domestic departures cost around R$21 at most airports, and international departures are a hefty R$108. Payment can only be made in cash with U.S. dollars or Brazilian currency but not in a combination of both.

Time Zones -- Brazil has three time zones. The coast, including Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, and as far inland as São Paulo and Brasilia, is in one time zone. The ranching states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, the Pantanal, and the Amazon around Manaus are in the second time zone, 1 hour behind Rio. The third time zone includes the state of Acre and the western part of the Amazon, 2 hours behind Rio. The time difference between cities in Brazil and North America varies by up to 2 hours over the course of the year as clocks spring forward and fall back for daylight saving time. From approximately March to September Rio de Janeiro is in the same time zone as New York City. From October to February, Rio is at least 1 and often 2 hours ahead of New York (for example, noon in New York City is 2pm in Rio).

Tipping -- A 10% service charge is automatically included on most restaurant and hotel bills and you are not expected to tip on top of this amount. If service has been particularly bad you can request to have the 10% removed from your bill. Taxi drivers do not get tipped; just round up the amount to facilitate change. Hairdressers and beauticians usually receive a 10% tip. Bellboys get tipped R$1 to R$2 per bag. Room service usually includes the 10% service charge on the bill.

Toilets -- Public toilets are rare in Brazil, except in shopping malls. You'll do better seeking out hotels and restaurants. Toilets in Brazil can be marked in a few different ways. Usually you will see mulher or an M for women and homem or an H for men. Sometimes it will read damas or D for ladies and cavalheiros or C for gentlemen. It's not a bad idea to carry some toilet paper with you as in many public restrooms, the toilet attendant doles out sheets only grudgingly.

Water -- The tap water in Brazil is increasingly safe to drink. However, as a result of the treatment process it still doesn't taste great. To be on the safe side, drink bottled or filtered water (most Brazilians do). All brands are reliable; ask for agua sem gas for still water and agua com gas for carbonated water. However, you can certainly shower, brush your teeth, or rinse an apple with tap water.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The official unit of currency in Brazil is the Real (pronounced Ray-all; the plural is Reais, pronounced Ray-eyes), which the Brazilian government introduced in 1994 in an attempt to control inflation. International money speculations around the 2002 presidential elections sent the Real into a tailspin, arriving at a record low of nearly R$4 to the U.S. dollar. When it became clear the new leftist president, Lula da Silva, was actually planning to follow a quite conservative monetary policy, the Real settled back around R$3 to the U.S. dollar. Since then, the U.S. dollar has been on a steady decline to its current level around R$1.70 to the dollar. For travelers this means that Brazil is still affordable, though not the bargain it was in years past.

Tip: When exchanging money, be it cash or traveler's checks, always keep the receipt. You will need it in case you want to change back any unused Reais at the end of your trip. See www.xe.com online for an easy currency converter.

The U.S. Dollar

Up until 2004, many businesses based their rates on the U.S. dollar. With the dollar's fall, some businesses have lowered their Real prices to keep a steady dollar price, others have increased the Real rate, and still others have switched over to accounting in euros. For U.S. travelers, it means that Brazil has gotten a little bit more expensive. When prices are listed in U.S. dollars only, it's because these companies quote their prices directly in dollars. If in doubt, ask. And though it's a bad idea to carry large wads of cash, it can be helpful to bring a small amount of U.S. cash ($10s or $20s only, no $100s) as an emergency supply in case that ATM is broken or your credit card isn't working. Even in the smallest towns people will know the exchange rate, and someone will be happy to take the U.S. dollars off your hands.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks aren't a very good idea in Brazil. Most shops won't accept them, hotels give a miserable exchange rate (if they cash them), and many banks have a strange policy that they will not cash your traveler's checks unless you have an account at that branch of that bank. The Banco do Brasil is the only bank that will cash them with a minimum of hassle but will charge a US$20 service fee.

ATMs

The best way to get cash at a reasonable exchange rate is by withdrawing money from an ATM. Brazil's financial infrastructure is very sophisticated, and ATMs were common here even before they were used in western Europe. You will find them everywhere in Brazil, even in the smallest towns. The only trick is finding one that works with your card. ATMs are linked to a network that most likely includes your bank at home. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) are the two most popular networks in the U.S.; call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. You need to have a four-digit PIN to be able to access ATMs in Brazil. For most ATMs the limit is R$1,000 but depending on the machine these amounts may be lower.

The vast majority of travelers find they are able to use the HSBC and Banco do Brasil ATMs bearing a PLUS/Visa and Cirrus/MasterCard logo. Almost all Brazilian airports have HSBC and Banco do Brasil ATMs. However, it's not a bad idea to bring two different cards to increase your access options with other banks. (Small towns normally only have one ATM. It will be PLUS/Visa or Cirrus/MasterCard, but not always both.) Bradesco, Banco 24 Horas, and Citibank ATMs are often compatible with PLUS/Visa. If in doubt, check with your bank to find out which Brazilian bank networks are compatible with your card. Also, plan ahead to ensure that you have enough cash; for safety reasons many ATMs do not operate 24 hours. Often they will close after 10pm or only allow a small amount of cash to be withdrawn during the off-hours. Your best bets for late-night withdrawals are airports, malls, or gas stations.

Finally, make sure that during New Year's and Carnaval you get enough cash ahead of time, as machines often run out of money by the end of the holidays.

Tip: Before you leave home, write down all your card numbers, expiration dates, and contact phone numbers. Leave a copy with someone you can easily reach, and e-mail a copy to yourself and save it in an account that can be accessed anywhere, so you have the information at your fingertips in case of loss or theft.

Credit Cards

The best exchange rates can be obtained through credit cards, which are accepted at most Brazilian shops and hotels and restaurants. Just keep in mind that you are sometimes able to negotiate a better discount on a room or in a store if you pay cash. The most commonly accepted cards are Visa and MasterCard. American Express and Diners Club are also often accepted. It's a good idea to have at least two cards as some stores and restaurants may only accept one card (usually Visa or MasterCard; Diners and Amex are less common, especially in small towns). Keep in mind that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or U.S. dollars). But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like exorbitant ATM fees and the higher exchange rates and service fees you'll pay with traveler's checks.