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Two separate kitchens, two separate auras at this restaurant that’s been a mainstay since 1976. One kitchen serves the fancy and formal main dining rooms, where guests can order à la carte or choose the 7-course prix-fixe option. The other kitchen serves the more relaxed bistro area, where you can get away with a couple of appetizers and call it a night. In the dining rooms, dishes like the lobster stew starter and the main course of pesto rack of lamb with a goat cheese, fig, and herb brûlée are favorites. As for the bistro, there are lots of good choices, but the gnocchi with a mushroom-butter fondue and the pan-seared sea scallops both stand out. House-made desserts are a specialty here, and you are wise to save room, however hard that may be. Three country-style rooms upstairs rent for $110 to $150 a night.