Planning a trip to British Columbia

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All persons traveling between the United States and Canada are required to present a passport or other valid travel document. A birth certificate and photo ID are no longer accepted for crossing the border by land or sea, as of June 1, 2009.

Other valid travel documents include passport cards (a new high-tech identity card, which can speed up entry at U.S. land and sea ports of entry); enhanced driver's licenses; trusted traveler cards such as NEXUS, FAST, or SENTRI; a valid Merchant Mariner Document (MMD) when traveling in conjunction with official maritime business; or a valid U.S. Military identification card when traveling on official orders.

Permanent U.S. residents who aren't U.S. citizens must be prepared to present their Alien Registration Cards (green cards). If you plan to drive into Canada, be sure to bring your car's registration papers and proof of insurance.

Children under the age of 16 (or anyone under 19, if traveling with a school, religious group, or other youth group) need only present a birth certificate or naturalization certificate. Birth certificates can be an original, photocopy, or certified copy.

An important point: Any person under 18 traveling alone requires a letter from a parent or guardian granting him or her permission to travel to Canada. The letter must state the traveler's name and the duration of the trip. It's essential that teenagers carry proof of identity, usually a passport, though see the above website for alternatives; otherwise, their letter is useless at the border.

For information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center's toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Bringing Children into Canada

If you are traveling with children under age 18, you must carry identification for each child. Passports are best, though birth certificates are still accepted for children under 16. Divorced parents who share custody of their children should carry copies of the legal custody documents. Adults who are not parents or guardians should have written permission from the parents or guardians to supervise the children. When traveling with a group of vehicles, parents or guardians should travel in the same vehicle as the children when arriving at the border. Customs officers are looking for missing children and may ask questions about the children who are traveling with you.

Visas

Citizens of the U.S., most European countries, most former British colonies, and certain other countries (Israel, Korea, and Japan, for instance) do not need visas but must carry passports to enter Canada. Entry visas are required for citizens of more than 130 countries. Entry visas must be applied for and received from the Canadian embassy in your home country. For more information on entry requirements to Canada, see the Citizenship and Immigration website visitors' services page at www.cic.gc.ca/english/visit/index.asp.

Citizens of the U.S., most European countries, most former British colonies and certain other countries (Israel, Korea, and Japan, for instance) do not need visas but must carry passports to enter Canada. Entry visas are required for citizens of more than 130 countries. Entry visas must be applied for and received from the Canadian embassy in your home country. For more information on entry requirements to Canada, see the Citizenship and Immigration website visitors' services page at www.cic.gc.ca/english/visit/index.asp.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Canada --Customs regulations are very generous in most respects but get pretty complicated when it comes to firearms, plants, meats, and pets. You can bring in free of duty up to 50 cigars, 200 cigarettes, and 200 grams (about a half-pound) of tobacco, providing you're over 18. Those of age (18 or 19, depending on the province) are also allowed about 1.15 liters (39 oz.) of liquor, 1.5 liters (51 oz.) of wine, or 24 355-milliliter (12-oz.) containers of beer or ale. Dogs, cats, and most pets can enter Canada with their owners, though you must have proof of rabies vaccinations within the last 36 months for pets over 3 months old.

Canada has complex requirements, restrictions, and limits that apply to importing meat, eggs, dairy products, fresh fruits and vegetables, and other food from around the world. You can avoid problems by not bringing such goods into Canada.

As for firearms, visitors can bring rifles into Canada during hunting season and for the purposes of hunting. Handguns and automatic rifles are generally not allowed. Fishing tackle poses no problems, but the bearer must possess a nonresident license for the province or territory where he or she plans to use it. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Service Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 within Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). It's available as a download at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/pub/bsf5056-eng.html#P021.

What You Can Take Home from Canada -- U.S. Citizens: Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 3% duty on the next US$1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. Travelers 18 and older are allowed to bring back 100 cigars, or 200 cigarettes duty-free, and those over 21 can bring back 1 liter of alcohol, as well. For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go!") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov), and request the pamphlet.

U.K. citizens returning from Canada have a Customs allowance of 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine, or other liqueurs; 60cc (mL) perfume; 250cc (mL) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol (for travelers 18 and older). If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g), plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Canada. If you are traveling under a South African passport and intend to stay more than 6 months in Canada, you may be asked to pass a medical exam.

When to Go

When to go to B.C. and the Canadian Rockies depends largely on what you intend to do when you get there. Summer brings warm weather and largely sunny skies, and also the most festivals and events. Unsurprisingly, this is also when the most tourists choose to visit, and many areas, particularly the Canadian Rockies, are absolutely thronged. However, even if you travel during the heavily touristed months of summer, this guide offers suggestions for less-frequented parks and activities where you can experience the solitary pleasures of the Canadian outback.

By and large, winter means skiing, which is big business here. Both B.C. (Vancouver and Whistler) and the Canadian Rockies (Calgary and Nakiska) have hosted the Winter Olympics, and recent years have seen the opening of ever more upscale resorts, particularly in the mountains of southeast B.C. Winter can be a fun time to visit B.C. and the Canadian Rockies, as it's literally a winter wonderland, and all the top restaurants and hotels are running at high gear.

Spring (Apr and May) and late fall (Oct through early Dec) are definitely off season, and in many ways can be the nicest times to visit. Hotel prices are often one-third to one-half of high-season rates, and you'll have dining rooms to yourselves. Come prepared for changeable weather, but otherwise this can be a low-key, budget-pleasing time to visit.

The Weather

Canada west of the Rocky Mountains has generally mild winters, with snow mostly at the higher elevations. Even though spring comes early -- usually in March -- gray clouds can linger through June. Dry summer weather is assured only after July 1, but often continues through October. The Canadian Rockies and the mountains of the B.C. interior are often socked in with clouds and rain throughout the summer; plan to spend several days here to assure that you'll catch at least some good weather. In winter, the Rockies fill with snow, but frequently the weather is not as cold as you'd expect. Chinook winds from the prairies can bring warm-air systems, boosting temperatures up to early spring levels. On the prairies of Alberta, winters can be fiercely cold and windy. If you plan to travel across the prairies or through the Rockies in winter, be sure to have snow tires and chains.

Remember that your car should be winterized through March and that snow sometimes falls as late as May. Evenings tend to be cool everywhere, particularly on or near water. In late spring and early summer, you'll need a supply of insect repellent if you're planning bush travel or camping.

Coastal B.C. can be very rainy in winter, and even in high summer (July and Aug) rain and fog are not uncommon. However, it's never very cold due to offshore currents.

For up-to-date weather conditions, check out http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca or www.theweathernetwork.com.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Canada is one of the most gay-tolerant travel destinations in the world. Witness the fact that gay marriage is legal in Canada and that the entire nation has nondiscrimination protection for gays and lesbians. While not every rural village is ready for the circuit party set, most gay travelers will encounter little adversity.

A good clearinghouse for information on gay Canada is the website www.gaycanada.com, which features news and links to gay-owned or -friendly accommodations and businesses across Canada.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The Canadian phone system is exactly the same as the system in the United States. Canadian phone numbers have 10 digits: The first three numbers are the area code, which corresponds to a province or division thereof, plus a seven-digit local number. To call a number within the same locality, usually all you have to dial is the seven-digit local number. If you're making a long-distance call (out of the area or province), you need to precede the local number with "1" plus the area code.

For directory assistance: Dial 411 if you're looking for a number inside Canada or the U.S. Fees for these directory assistance calls range from C$1.50 to C$3.50. You can get the same service for free by dialing 1-800/FREE-411 (473-3411). If you're looking for a business phone number, try 1-800/GOOG-411 (466-4411), a free service from Google. For international directory assistance, dial "00" and ask for the international directory assistance operator. These calls cost C$7.95 plus taxes each. It is free to use Web-based phone directories, such as www.whitepages.com or www.anywho.com, to research phone numbers.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 800, 888, 877, and 866 within Canada are toll-free.

Cellphones

The good news for most U.S. travelers with cellphones: Your phones will probably work just fine in Canada. Call your service provider to make certain, but nearly all U.S. providers have reciprocal relationships with national Canadian networks. Calls on a U.S. phone using a Canadian network can be expensive, however, usually more than the standard roaming charges incurred within the U.S.

For cellphone users from Asia, Australia, and Europe, the situation is a bit more complicated. The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In Canada and the U.S., however, the typical cellular network operates on the CDMA protocol, which is incompatible with GSM phones.

However, visitors to the Vancouver and Lower Mainland with GSM cellphones are in luck. As part of the infrastructure build-out for the 2010 Winter Olympics, all three major Canadian cellular phone services providers (Rogers, Bell Mobility, and Telus) have unveiled GSM networks. So visitors with GSM phones should be able to make and receive calls and obtain data services anywhere in the Vancouver area and in other urban areas in B.C. GSM services are also available in much of Alberta, including Calgary and Edmonton. Cellphone service in general is sketchy in the Rockies.

If you have never used your GSM phone internationally before, you may want to contact your service provider in advance. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high in Canada.

For some, renting a phone when visiting Canada may be a good idea. A quick search of the Internet reveals many cellphone rental companies that provide service in Canada, including Cellular Abroad (tel. 800/287-5072; www.cellularabroad.com) and Planet Omni (tel. 877/327-5076; www.planetomni.com). Cellphone rental charges begin at C$18 to C$24 a week, but fees can quickly mount as you'll also need to buy a SIM card and pay for outgoing calls. To rent a phone, you'll need to contact the rental company in advance of your departure and await the arrival of your phone.

Buying a phone once you arrive in Canada can be more economically attractive. Two of Canada's largest carriers, Rogers (www.shoprogers.com) and Telus Mobility (www.telusmobility.com) offer pay-as-you-go plans, which don't require users to sign up for lengthy contracts.

Internet/E-Mail

The vast majority of Canadian hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers offer Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) services. It's usually free, but sometimes a small fee is charged for usage.

To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels also offer dataports for high-speed wired access. If you're uncertain about Wi-Fi access, be sure to bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. (Both phone and electrical cables in Canada are exactly the same as in the U.S.)

If you're not traveling with your own laptop or mobile device, you'll find that most hotels will have a computer terminal with Internet access available for customer use. Cybercafes and public libraries are other options for computer access. To find a cybercafe, try www.cybercafe.com.

Visitor Information

For advance information on British Columbia, contact Tourism British Columbia, P.O. Box 9830, Stn. Prov. Govt., 1803 Douglas St., Third Floor, Victoria, BC V8W 9W5 (tel. 800/HELLO-BC [435-5622] or 250/387-1642; www.hellobc.com).

To request information on Alberta, contact Travel Alberta, Box 2500, Edmonton, AB T5J 2Z4 (tel. 800/252-3782; www.travelalberta.com).

For general information about Canada's national parks, contact Parks Canada National Office, 25 Eddy St., Hull, PQ K1A 0M5 (tel. 888/773-8888; www.pc.gc.ca). For Canada-wide travel information, see the official tourism site for Canada at www.canada.travel.

Here are some other useful provincial and city sites:

• British Columbia: www.bc.worldweb.com; www.travel.bc.ca
• Alberta: www.discoveralberta.com
• Vancouver: www.tourismvancouver.com
• Whistler: www.whistler.com, www.whistlerblackcomb.com
• Victoria: www.tourismvictoria.com, www.victoriabc.com
• Banff: www.banfflakelouise.com, www.banff.com
• Calgary: www.tourismcalgary.com, www.discovercalgary.com
• Edmonton: www.edmonton.ca, www.discoveredmonton.com, www.edmonton.com

Getting Around

B.C. in particular has an admirable public transportation system, and it would be possible to see most of the sites covered by this guide by linking buses, trains, and ferries -- actually a very pleasant prospect. However, having your own wheels will increase your options.

By Plane

It's actually cheaper now to fly between Canadian cities than take the bus or train, as deregulation has resulted in a number of excellent new airlines that offer no-frills but perfectly comfortable air travel. These airlines rely on the Internet to create savings in booking flights and other information gathering, so you'll want Internet access to learn about these flights. WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com) offers the largest service area, with flights spanning the country from Victoria to St. John's.

In addition to Air Canada flights between major western Canadian cities, the regional Air Canada Jazz (tel. 888/247-2262; www.flyjazz.ca) flies to smaller centers. Regularly scheduled floatplane service links Victoria and Vancouver harbors, and many island communities in the Strait of Georgia.

By Car

Canadian highways are well maintained, and most are open year-round. For instance, Hwy. 1, which links Vancouver to Calgary, and the Icefields Parkway, which links Lake Louise and Jasper, are both open all winter long. Even though Canada is a major oil producer, you'll find that gasoline there is generally more expensive than in the U.S.

Driving Rules -- Wearing seat belts is compulsory for all passengers. Children under 5 must be in child restraints. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. In British Columbia and Alberta, it's legal to turn right at a red light after you've come to a full stop. Pedestrians have the right of way. The speed limit on express routes (limited-access highways) ranges from 62 to 68 mph (100-110kmph). Drivers must carry proof of insurance at all times.

By Train

In addition to the transcontinental VIA Rail, Vancouver Island offers the Malahat, a passenger train that makes a daily run between Victoria and Courtenay. This is a rather charming way to progress up and down the eastern shores of Vancouver Island, and it's easy to link to ferries to make loop trips along the B.C. coast. Another marvelous B.C. route is the Skeena, which links Prince Rupert on the Pacific with Jasper, in the Canadian Rockies. For information on both, contact VIA Rail (tel. 888/VIA-RAIL [842-7245]; www.viarail.ca).

By Bus

While many Americans may not relish the option of traveling by bus while in Canada, in fact Greyhound Canada (tel. 800/661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) offers far superior service and coverage than does Greyhound in the U.S. Not only are the buses newer and cleaner, and the bus stations better kept up than in the U.S., but Greyhound is also often the only option for land transport in many parts of Canada due to the relatively minimal coverage by VIA Rail.

Greyhound and its affiliates provide the primary transportation infrastructure among communities in British Columbia. On Vancouver Island, a number of private carriers also offer services, particularly on the run between Victoria and Tofino.

In the Canadian Rockies, Brewster Transportation (tel. 866/606-6700 or 403/762-6700) offers bus transport among Calgary, Banff, and Jasper in addition to running tours.

By Boat

BC Ferries (tel. 888/223-3779 or 250/386-3431; www.bcferries.com) operates an extensive car and passenger ferry network along the British Columbia coast. These ferries link the B.C. mainland to Vancouver Island, and also provide service to dozens of smaller island communities. Also notable is the Inland Passage route, which links Port Hardy on the northern tip of Vancouver Island with Prince Rupert, just south of the Alaska Panhandle. This service can be joined with other public transport options to make a really great loop around B.C.

Escorted & Package Tours

Brewster Transportation and Tours, P.O. Box 1140, Banff, AB T0L 0C0 (tel. 877/791-5500; www.brewster.ca), offers a wide variety of tours throughout the Canadian Rockies, both escorted and independent. Their offerings include motorcoach and train excursions, ski and other winter vacations, city and resort combination packages, chartered day tours by bus, and independent driving tours. Highlights include a visit to the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park. Many packages in the Rockies include stays at guest ranches.

Travel by train lets you see the Rockies as you never would in a bus or behind the wheel of a car. The Rocky Mountaineer Vacations, 1150 Station St., First Floor, Vancouver, BC V6A 2X7 (tel. 877/460-3200; www.rockymountaineer.com), bills its Rocky Mountaineer as "The Most Spectacular Train Trip in the World." During daylight hours between mid-April and mid-October, this sleek blue-and-white train winds past foaming waterfalls, ancient glaciers, towering snowcapped peaks, and roaring mountain streams. The Rocky Mountaineer gives you the options of traveling east from Vancouver; traveling west from Jasper, Calgary, or Banff; or taking round-trips. Another rail service offers travel to/from Vancouver and Jasper via Whistler and Quesnel.

John Steel Railtours (tel. 800/988-5778 or fax 604/886-2100; www.johnsteel.com) offers both escorted and independent tour packages, many through the Rockies and the West and a few in other regions, which combine train and other forms of travel. VIA Rail operates the train portions of John Steel tours. Packages run from 5 to 12 days, at all times of year, depending on the route, and combine stays in major cities and national parks.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources for travelers with disabilities than ever before.

A clearinghouse of official Canadian federal government information on disability issues, including those related to travel and transportation, is available from Persons with Disabilities Online, www.pwd-online.ca. The Canadian Paraplegic Association (tel. 613/723-1033; www.canparaplegic.org) can offer advice for travelers with limited mobility as well as address issues for those with spinal cord injuries or other physical disabilities. From the national website, you can click to find provincial organizations.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5/667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality) (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org).

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com); and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to people with limited mobility.

British travelers should contact Tourism for All (tel. 0845/124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.tourismforall.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and travelers with disabilities.

Health & Insurance

General Availability of Health Care

Canada's healthcare system is similar to that in the U.S. except that health insurance for Canadian citizens is managed nationally by the federal government. Hospitals, clinics, and pharmacies are as common as in the U.S. and western Europe. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in Canada. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel-medicine practitioners, also offers helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Canadian hospitals have emergency rooms open 24 hours for emergency care. In addition, most cities also have walk-in clinics where nonemergency treatment is available.

Pharmacies are common, and most large cities have at least one 24-hour operation. You'll have no trouble having prescriptions filled; in fact, you may note that prescription drugs are substantially cheaper in Canada than in the U.S. Also, certain drugs are available over-the-counter in Canada that are available only by prescription in the U.S.

In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need, though you may need to pay upfront and request reimbursement later. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead. Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel.

If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Safety

Canada is one of the least violent countries on Earth -- at least off the hockey ice. Using common sense, most travelers should experience few if any threatening situations during a trip to Canada. In fact, most Canadians are unfailingly polite and helpful.

The weather and wildlife are probably a greater threat to the average traveler than violence from other human beings. If driving in winter, be sure to carry traction devices such as tire chains in your vehicle, plus plenty of warm clothes and a sleeping bag.

Wildlife is really only dangerous if you put yourself into their habitat in the wrong place at the wrong time. Elk can often seem tame, particularly those that live near human civilization. However, during calving season, mother elk can mistake your doting attention as an imminent attack on her newborn. Hiking trails are often closed to hikers during calving season, so be sure to obey all trail postings.

Moose are more dangerous, as they are truly massive and when surprised are apt to charge first and ask questions later. Give a moose plenty of room, and resist the temptation to feed them snacks. Chances are they will come looking for more.

Bears are the most dangerous wilderness denizens to humans. Canada is home to grizzly bears, one of the largest carnivores in North America, and to black bears, a smaller, less fearsome cousin (unless you're traveling along the polar ice floes, you're extremely unlikely to see a polar bear). Grizzly bears tend to keep their distance from humans, preferring mountain meadows to human garbage dumps. However, black bears can coexist much more readily with humans, and in some ways pose a more persistent threat. Never come between a bear and its cub, or its food source. Never hike alone in the back woods, and if camping keep food items away from tents.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Prices for goods and services are comparable between Canada and the U.S. -- particularly now that the Canadian dollar is largely at par with its U.S. counterpart. On a day-to-day basis, traveling in Canada will cost about the same as traveling in the U.S., as long as restraint is used when making hotel and dining selections. European travelers using euros and the British pound will find that Canadian prices for comparable goods and services are generally lower than those in their home countries.

Currency -- Canadian currency is counted in dollars and cents, just like the currency system in the U.S. However, in addition to pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters, there are one- and two-dollar coins (there are no dollar or two-dollar bills). Dollar coins are bronze-plated coins and bear the picture of a loon -- hence their nickname "loonies." There's also a two-toned $2 coin sometimes referred to as a "toonie." Paper currency begins with $5 bills.

Exchanging currency is pretty straightforward, particularly if you are changing U.S. dollars into Canadian. The easiest way to procure Canadian currency is simply to withdraw money from an ATM, which are as omnipresent as they are in the U.S.

Often, Canadian businesses will accept U.S. dollars in payment, making the currency value exchange, if any, at the till.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Although one could make the case that any journey that includes travel in a car or airplane can't truly be "green," there are several ways that you can make your trip to western Canada more sustainable. The Hotel Association of Canada (tel. 613/237-7149; www.hotelassociation.ca) offers a voluntary program called the Green Key Program (www.greenkeyglobal.com) that recognizes hotels and lodgings that are taking steps to reduce environmental impacts. Lodgings are rated from one to five Green Keys based on their performance in such areas as energy and water conservation, land use, and environmental management.

Canadagreentravel.com is another reference for green accommodations, activities, and restaurants in Canada.

In addition, both B.C. and the Canadian Rockies offer eco-tourism opportunities that join adventure and recreation with sustainable travel practices. Ecotour (www.ecotourdirectory.com) is a Web directory that provides listings for eco-tourism operators in Canada (and around the world).

Another valuable website is www.greenlivingonline.com, which offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area code for Vancouver and the surrounding area is 604; for Victoria and the rest of the B.C., it's 250. In Alberta, the area code for Calgary and Banff is 403, while the area code for Edmonton and Jasper is 780.

Automobile Organizations -- Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) should remember to take their membership cards since the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA; tel. 800/222-4357; www.caa.ca) extends privileges to them in Canada.

Business Hours -- Standard business hours in Canada are similar to those in the U.S., usually 10am to 6pm. It is common for stores to be closed on Sundays, particularly outside of the larger cities and major tourist areas.

Drinking Laws -- In British Columbia, all beer, wine, and spirits are sold only in government liquor stores, which keep restricted hours and charge extortionate prices. Alberta's liquor laws more resemble those in the United States, and the minimum drinking age there is 18 (in British Columbia, it's 19), though you still need to go to liquor stores for all forms of alcohol, including beer and wine.

Proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Canada uses the same plug configuration and 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles) as the U.S., compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts can be difficult to find in the United States and Canada, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in Ottawa, the national capital; the U.S. Embassy is at 490 Sussex Dr., Ottawa, ON K1N 1G8 (tel. 613/688-5335; http://ottawa.usembassy.gov). You'll find U.S. consulates in Alberta at 615 Macleod Trail SE, 10th Floor, Calgary (tel. 403/266-8962), and in British Columbia at Mezzanine, 1095 W. Pender St., Vancouver (tel. 604/685-4311). Visit the American Citizen Information Services website (www.amcits.com) for further U.S. consular services information.

There's a British consulate general at 777 Bay St., Ste. 2800, Toronto, ON M5G 2G2 (tel. 416/593-1290; for more information see http://ukincanada.fco.gov.uk/en), and an Australian consulate general at 175 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1100, South Tower, Toronto, ON M4W 3R8 (tel. 416/323-1155; for more information visit www.ahc-ottawa.org).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 for emergencies.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gas sells by the liter and pumps for anywhere from about C85¢ to C$1.10 per liter, or about C$3.80 to C$4.30 per U.S. gallon. (Note that the term "gallon" in Canada usually refers to the imperial gallon, which amounts to about 1.2 U.S. gal.) Gasoline prices vary from region to region.

Holidays -- Most banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), Good Friday, Easter, the Monday on or before May 24 (Victoria Day), July 1 (Canada Day), the first Monday in September (Labour Day), the second Monday in October (Thanksgiving), November 11 (Remembrance Day), and December 25 and 26 (Christmas and Boxing Day).

Travelers should note that most Canadians consider their high summer season to run between Victoria Day (a week before Memorial Day in the U.S.) and Labour Day (the same date as in the U.S.). Seasonal destinations often close the weekend before Canadian Thanksgiving, in early October.

Language -- English is spoken throughout B.C. and the Canadian Rockies.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting your embassy or consulate.

Mail -- Standard mail in Canada is carried by Canada Post (tel. 800/267-1177 in Canada, or 416/979-8822 in the U.S.; www.canadapost.ca). At press time, it costs C57¢ to send a first-class letter or postcard within Canada and C$1.03 to send a first-class letter or postcard from Canada to the United States. First-class airmail service to other countries is C$1.73 for the first 30 grams (1 oz.). Rates go up frequently. If you put a return address on your letter, make sure it's Canadian; otherwise, leave it without.

Police -- To contact the police in an emergency, dial tel. 911.

Smoking -- Canada is considered to be at the forefront of anti-smoking legislation. Eleven of the country's 13 provinces and territories have now passed smoking bans prohibiting cigarettes in the workplace and public buildings, bars, and restaurants. In Alberta, no smoking is allowed in public places and workplaces where minors are allowed. Casinos, bingo halls, and bars don't fall under these restrictions. In B.C., you can't smoke in public places like restaurants, bars, bingo halls, bowling alleys, and casinos. Restaurant and bar owners may construct open smoking rooms where staff may volunteer to serve. Traveling smokers should be aware that in B.C., it is illegal to light a cigarette in a motor vehicle in the presence of a person under the age of 16.

Taxes -- Throughout Canada, you will be charged a federal goods and service tax (GST), a 5% tax on virtually all goods and services. In all provinces except Alberta, there is an additional provincial sales tax added to purchases and financial transactions. British Columbia levies a "harmonized" federal and provincial 12% tax on purchases and services.

All provinces and some municipalities levy a hotel room tax (5% in Alberta; 8% in B.C.).

Some hotels and shops include the GST in their prices; others add it on separately. When included, the tax accounts for the odd hotel rates, such as C$96.05 per day, that you may find on your final bill.

As of 2007, the Canadian government no longer offers GST or HST rebates of hotel bills or the cost of goods you've purchased in Canada.

Telephones -- The Canadian phone system is exactly the same as the 10-digit system in the United States. Many stores sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost C50¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone.

For calls within Canada to the United States, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling. The country code from Canada to the U.K. is 44; Australia is 61; the country code for New Zealand is 64.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of C$3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as C$15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

Time -- Most of British Columbia is in the Pacific Time zone, 3 hours earlier than Eastern Standard Time. A sliver of British Columbia, stretching from Golden down to Cranbrook, and all of Alberta are on Mountain Time, an hour later than the rest of the province. So when it's noon in New York City, it's 9am in Victoria and 10am in Calgary. Each year, on the second Sunday in March, daylight saving time comes into effect in most of Canada, and clocks are advanced by 1 hour. On the first Sunday in November, Canada reverts to standard time.

Tipping -- The rules for tipping in Canada parallel those in the United States.

In hotels, tip bellhops at least C$1 per bag (C$2-C$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff C$1 to C$2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant C$1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants C$1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants C$1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 10% to 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least C$1 per bag (C$2-C$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "washrooms" on the streets in most Canadian cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their washrooms for patrons.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior while traveling in Canada, and frequently you can receive discounted admission prices to cultural and tourist attractions. In most of Canada, people age 65 and older qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation. It is less common to receive discounts on lodging, though it does happen, so it is worth asking when you make your lodging reservations.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. Anyone 50 or older can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Exploritas (formerly Elderhostel, tel. 800/454-5768; www.exploritas.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Calendar of Events

Canadians love a festival, and not even the chill of winter will keep them from celebrating. The Canadian festival calendar is jammed with events celebrating ethnic cultures, food and wine, historical events and characters, the arts, rodeos, music and theater, even salmon and whales. Following is a seasonal list of festival highlights from British Columbia and Alberta.

Winter

Reino Keski-Salmi Loppet (www.skilarchhills.ca), January, held in Salmon Arm, is one of Canada's largest cross-country ski races.

TELUS Winter Classic (www.whistlerblackcomb.com), January, brings the world's top skiers and snowboarders, and lots of youthful energy, to Whistler.

Spring

Pacific Rim Whale Festival (tel. 250/726-4641; www.pacificrimwhalefestival.org), March, celebrates the yearly return of up to 20,000 gray whales to the waters off Tofino and Ucluelet, Vancouver Island, B.C.

Summer

Calgary Stampede (tel. 800/661-1767; www.calgarystampede.com), July, the world's largest and richest rodeo, and Calgary's opportunity to celebrate its cowboy past.

Banff Summer Arts Festival (tel. 800/413-8368; www.banffcentre.ca), July and August, a celebration of classical and jazz music in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.

Vancouver Folk Festival (tel. 604/602-9798; www.thefestival.bc.ca), July, one of North America's top folk music events, Vancouver's festival brings Summer of Love musical stylings to a gorgeous bayside park.

Marine Festival (www.bathtubbing.com), in Nanaimo, in late July, is highlighted by the World Championship Bathtub Race, in which unusual watercraft (originally claw-foot bathtubs) motor from Nanaimo to Vancouver.

HSBC Celebration of Light (www.celebration-of-light.com), late July and early August, is a fireworks competition culminating with a huge pyrotechnical display accompanied by live music, all at Vancouver's English Bay Beach.

Edmonton International Fringe Festival (www.fringetheatreadventures.ca), August, is the world's second-largest fringe theater festival (after Edinburgh), offering over 1,000 performances in the Old Strathcona neighborhood.

Fall

Okanagan Wine Festival (tel. 250/861-6654; www.thewinefestivals.com), October, celebrates B.C.'s Okanagan Valley's fall harvest with wine tastings, winery open houses, and dining events.

Great Canadian Beer Festival (www.gcbf.com), November, brings the country's top brewers to Victoria.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Tips for Families

Destinations such as the Canadian Rockies are especially attractive for families, as outfitters make it easy to arrange guided hiking, biking, white-water rafting, and horseback riding adventures simply by talking to your hotel's concierge. Outfitters on the Pacific coast provide opportunities to learn to sea kayak or to journey out onto the seas to view marine wildlife, while the Rockies' foothills and the B.C. interior feature guest ranches and Old West activities.

Remember that even children traveling with parents will be required to have some sort of official ID. This can either be a passport or a birth certificate. Children under the age of 18 traveling alone to Canada will need to have a signed letter from parents.

If your travel plans take you to Vancouver, consider buying a copy of Frommer's Vancouver with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).

Getting There

By Plane

Western Canada is linked with the United States, Europe, Australia, and Asia by frequent nonstop flights. Calgary (YYC) and Vancouver (YRV) are the major air hubs; regional airlines connect to smaller centers.

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca), Canada's dominant airline, has by far the most flights between the United States and Canada, and also offers service to the U.K. out of Calgary and Vancouver. Air Canada also has a number of partner airlines, such as Air Canada Jazz, that fly to secondary cities. Flights on these airlines can be booked from the main Air Canada website.

Most major U.S. carriers also fly daily between cities in Canada and the States -- these include American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Continental (tel. 800/525-0280; www.continental.com), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), Northwest (tel. 800/447-4747; www.nwa.com), United (tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com), and US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usair.com).

International airlines with nonstop service to Vancouver include British Air (tel. 800/247-9297 in the U.S. and Canada, 0845/773-3377 in the U.K.; www.ba.com), KLM (tel. 800/447-7747 in the U.S. and Canada for KLM partner Northwest Airlines), Lufthansa (tel. 800/581-6400 in Canada, 800/563-5954 in the U.S., or 0803/803-803 in Germany; www.lufthansa.com), and SAS (tel. 800/221-2350 in the U.S. or Canada; www.scandinavian.net). Asian airlines that fly into Vancouver include China Airlines (tel. 800/227-5118 or 604/682-6777 in Vancouver; www.china-airlines.com), Cathay Pacific (tel. 800/233-2742; www.cathay-usa.com), Japan Air Lines (tel. 800/525-3663; www.jal.com), and Korean Air (tel. 800/438-5000; www.koreanair.com). Additionally, Air Canada offers international flights from Mexico, most cities in northern Europe, and many centers in Asia. Canada's Air Transat (tel. 866/847-1112; www.airtransat.com) offers still more options from Europe and Latin America. From the southern hemisphere, both Qantas (tel. 800/227-4500 in the U.S. and Canada; www.qantas.com) and Air New Zealand (tel. 800/663-5494; www.airnewzealand.ca), offer flights into Vancouver.

Calgary offers nonstop flights to a number of European cities, including London on Air Canada and British Air; Amsterdam on KLM and Air Transat; and Paris on Air Transat.

Another option is to fly into Seattle, Washington. Airfares are frequently less expensive to Seattle, and the difference in distance to destinations such as the Okanagan Valley, the Canadian Rockies, and Vancouver Island is negligible (driving from Seattle to Vancouver, for instance, takes about 2 1/2 hr.). Seattle's Sea-Tac Airport has nonstop flights from London, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Seoul, Tokyo, and Hong Kong, among other cities.

By Car

Because Canada and the U.S. share the longest open border on earth, it makes sense that many U.S.-based travelers will consider taking their own car to Canada as a road-trip destination. There are scores of border crossings between Canada and the U.S. (The U.S. freeway system enters at 13 different locations.) However, not all border crossings keep the same hours, and many are closed at night. Before you set off to cross the border at a remote location, ascertain if it will be open when you arrive there.

In addition to having the proper ID to cross into Canada, drivers may also be asked to provide proof of car insurance and show the car registration. If you're driving a rental car, you may be asked to show the rental agreement. It's always a good idea to clean your car of perishable foodstuff before crossing the border; fruit, vegetables, and meat products may be confiscated and may lead to a full search of the car. Remember that firearms are allowed across the border only in special circumstances; handguns are almost completely outlawed.

Once in Canada, you'll find that roads are generally in good condition. There are two major highway routes that cross Canada east to west. Hwy. 1, which is largely four lanes, travels from Victoria on the Pacific to St. John's in Newfoundland, a total of 8,000km (4,971 miles) -- with some ferries along the way. The Yellowhead Highway (Hwy. 16) links Winnipeg to Prince Rupert in B.C. along a more northerly route.

Rental Cars -- Canada has scores of rental-car companies, including Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com), Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; www.avis.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-3665; www.dollar.com), Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389; www.thrifty.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S., or 800/268-8900 in Canada; www.budget.com), Enterprise (tel. 800/261-7331; www.enterprise.com), and National Car Rental (tel. 877/222-9058; www.nationalcar.com). Nevertheless, rental vehicles tend to get tight during the tourist season, from around mid-May through August. It's a good idea to reserve a car as soon as you decide on your vacation.

Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) should remember to take their membership cards since the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) (tel. 800/222-4357; www.caa.ca) extends privileges to them in Canada.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) can get you into Canada at a few border points, where you can connect up with Canada's VIA Rail (tel. 888/VIA-RAIL [842-7245]; www.viarail.ca) system. On the West Coast, the Cascades runs from Eugene, Oregon, to Vancouver, British Columbia, with stops in Portland and Seattle. Amtrak-operated buses may also connect segments of these routes.

Amtrak and VIA Rail both offer a North American Railpass, which gives you 30 days of unlimited economy-class travel in the U.S. and Canada. Remember that the Railpass doesn't include meals; you can buy meals on the train or carry your own food.

The problem with traveling on VIA Rail, particularly in western Canada, is that the train runs only 3 days a week. If you want to link your visit between destinations in Alberta and B.C. with a train journey, you may be out of luck unless your schedule is very flexible. Also, if sightseeing, and not just transport, is part of your vacation agenda, then you may also find that your train journey takes place overnight. Because of the way the train is scheduled in many parts of rural Canada, there's just one schedule per train, so the leg between Winnipeg and Edmonton, for instance, will always be overnight, no matter which train you take.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/661-8747 in Canada, www.greyhound.ca; in the U.S. tel. 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) operates the major intercity bus system in Canada. In recent years, several of the Greyhound routes between the U.S. and Canada have been terminated. The only international route still in operation in the West is the crossing between Seattle and Vancouver.

International visitors intending to travel across Canada (and/or the U.S.) should consider the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass, which offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada, can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com.

By Boat

Ocean ferries operate from Seattle, Anacortes, and Port Angeles, Washington, to Victoria, British Columbia.