Greek and Italian wines, renowned to obscure, are ostensibly the draw here, but the talent of chef-owner Tim O’Brien makes this smartly casual downtown destination much more than a wine bar. Perfectly executed chicken parm for the less-than-adventurous, decadent bucatini with mushrooms and blue cheese or lamb ragu over frascarelli for the rest of us. Local seafood specials are a treat as well. In the summer, there’s fine people-watching from the sidewalk tables up front.